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  1. #1
    Member IH2LOSE's Avatar
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    1966,and a 1962 thats almost complete

    Default What do you use to remove the rear wheel bearings

    Hello again from the C1 C2 section

    I am building a 62 corvette using the suspention from a C4
    I have to replace my rear wheel bearings tomorow and there seems to be a 4 torks bolt in it that I do not have the correct size for

    Does anybody know what size that is and what will be the proper torque specs when I am done?

    Thanks again

    Here are some photos of the car I am building its a 62 using a C4's suspention http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/ap...k_code=sa01_17

  2. #2
    Member WhalePirot's Avatar
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    '84 White Z-51/4+3/Shinoda body

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    Fantastic. I enjoyed your site very much.

    Sheesh, I thought I did a project! I'm not worthy.


    The '87 Helm manual, under rear hub and bearings calls for a Torx #45.
    Torque: hub & bearing to knuckle - 66 ft-lbs
    spindle to hub & bearing - 164 ft-lbs
    409 cid four bolt, forged crank/11:1 comp/alum. Dart Pro-1/FMS-30pph@45 psi/BBK 52mm/'90 ECM Custom chip/Lingenfelter SuperRam/Comp Cams hydr. roller 230i-236e@050 /TPIS long tubes 3"/'84 Corvette cat/Flowmaster/ BeCool rad./FlowTech water pump/180* 'stat/3.54:1 rear gears +case cryo hardened/Bilsteins: 'challenge' specs/Heim jointed rear suspension; all poly(Guldstrand)/4+3 (strengthened)/I.M.I. mini-starter/Battery inside/Electric HydroBoost brakes/FatMatted/Shinoda body/updated PW

  3. #3
    Member ZumZum's Avatar
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    THAT's a project, but it looks like it's coming along nicely. Did you build the chassis yourself?

  4. #4
    Member Hrtbeat1's Avatar
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    '90 coupe (gone) '96 CE LT4 Z51

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    Sweet looking ride. Very nice chassis.


    My rear wheel bearings use three torx bolts, each side, from the inside (half-shaft) they are T-55. I don't know if they changed from '87 to '90 or not.


  5. #5
    Member JonM's Avatar
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    84 Coupe

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    I'm impressed

  6. #6
    Member IH2LOSE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZumZum
    THAT's a project, but it looks like it's coming along nicely. Did you build the chassis yourself?
    No I purchased the chassis from a company called SR111 motor sports

    This is a link to there site http://www.sriiimotorsports.com/pages/885872/index.htm


    Thank you all for the information and also for the generour comments stop by the C1 C2 section there are a couple other fellows doing a simular build.

    Thanks again and I apreceate your help

  7. #7
    Mart
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    This is the whole procedure I wrote when the suspension is in a C4, just use the parts you need.

    Mart

    There are various ways of doing this job but this is the way that worked for me, things are very tight and there is not much room to turn a wrench. With a little patience and some ingenuity I got the job done, there are a few tricks that make things easier, like using a two piece breaker bar to loosen things, this tool helps with applying torque where there is no room, I personally have an electric torque wrench which is a little larger than most air tools so there was no room for it the wheel well. I could not accurately give a time that it take to complete this job due to the fact that I am really cleaning the underside as well as replacing the rubber bushings with Polyurethane from "Energy Suspension".
    Rear Hub Replacement</SPAN>

    1. Removal of the spindle nut - Tools, 36mm hub socket, T55 socket, (Get a hardened)


    a) With the car on the ground remove the cotter pin and nut cap, then get the torque wrench and try to turn the nut (Good Luck) these things are torqued to 166 ft lbs +, or use a 4ft piece of pipe on the end of your "lifetime warranty wrench" and turn away.

    b) Jack the car up take the wheel off, take the cotter pin and nut cap off, put the wheel back on, lower the car and then remove the nut with what ever method you prefer.
    TIPS: Spray the spindle nut with Liquid wrench for a couple of days prior to trying to loosen.

    2. Unhook emergency brake cable

    3. Remove caliper and hang it out of the way (I think 19mm wrenches)

    4. Remove rotor

    5. Removing the three Torx bolt holding the hub on the knuckle. These are really tight to get at and require removal of the shock and movement of the spring in order to get the proper clearance for ease of removal, for the upper bolt you will have to jack the knuckle up to straighten the axle in order to get a wrench in there.
    Jack up the leaf spring,and remove the bolt attaching the spring to the knuckle, I used a bottle jack with a think piece of rubber on top to protect the leaf spring.

    6. Remove whole assembly from rear knuckle.

    7. Clean everything as desired, and install in reverse order

    Note: Put some grease or antisieze on the spindle splines

    Note: Before final torque of the spindle nut put the wheels back on and lower to ground.

    Torque Specs:

      • Spindle Nut = 166ft lbs (Auto) 200ft lbs(Manual) The Books does not say anything about the 200 ft lbs for the manual but consensus has it that this is best.
      • Brake Caliper</EM> = 60ft lbs upper, 40ft lbs lower
      • Hub Bolts x 3 = 60ft lbs

  8. #8
    scorp508
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    It is a T55, not a T45 for the tox bolts. I also agree with the 200 ft. lbs. for the manual transmission cars. I have had 0 trouble since using that figure.

  9. #9
    Member IH2LOSE's Avatar
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    Thank you again for the information. I am on the east coast and we are in a heat was 90 + tempatures with high humidity and when I get home from work I am just whipped with barely enough energy to take a shower. I get it done this weekend for sure. Thanks again

  10. #10
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    05 black cpe-Porsche GT3

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    Your project is awesome. Continued good luck!

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