07-18-05, 10:59 PM #1
What do you use to remove the rear wheel bearings
Hello again from the C1 C2 section
I am building a 62 corvette using the suspention from a C4
I have to replace my rear wheel bearings tomorow and there seems to be a 4 torks bolt in it that I do not have the correct size for
Does anybody know what size that is and what will be the proper torque specs when I am done?
Here are some photos of the car I am building its a 62 using a C4's suspention http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/ap...k_code=sa01_17
07-19-05, 01:26 PM #2
Fantastic. I enjoyed your site very much.
Sheesh, I thought I did a project! I'm not worthy.
The '87 Helm manual, under rear hub and bearings calls for a Torx #45.
Torque: hub & bearing to knuckle - 66 ft-lbs
spindle to hub & bearing - 164 ft-lbs409 cid four bolt, forged crank/11:1/alum. Dart Pro-1/FMS-30pph@45 psi/BBK 52mm/'90 ECM Custom chip/Lingenfelter SuperRam/Comp Cams hydr. roller 230i-236e@050 /TPIS long tubes 3"/'84 Corvette cat/Flowmasters/ BeCool rad./FlowTech water pump/180* 'stat/3.54:1 rear gears +case cryo hardened/Bilsteins: 'Challenge' specs/Heim jointed rear suspension; all poly/ZF6-40 by ZF Doc//I.M.I. mini-starter/Battery inside/Electric HydroBoost brakes/FatMatted/Shinoda body/updated PwrWindows
07-19-05, 01:57 PM #3
THAT's a project, but it looks like it's coming along nicely. Did you build the chassis yourself?
07-19-05, 02:51 PM #4
Sweet looking ride. Very nice chassis.
My rear wheel bearings use three torx bolts, each side, from the inside (half-shaft) they are T-55. I don't know if they changed from '87 to '90 or not.
07-19-05, 03:10 PM #5
07-19-05, 05:49 PM #6
Originally Posted by ZumZum
This is a link to there site http://www.sriiimotorsports.com/pages/885872/index.htm
Thank you all for the information and also for the generour comments stop by the C1 C2 section there are a couple other fellows doing a simular build.
Thanks again and I apreceate your help
07-19-05, 09:21 PM #7MartGuest
This is the whole procedure I wrote when the suspension is in a C4, just use the parts you need.
There are various ways of doing this job but this is the way that worked for me, things are very tight and there is not much room to turn a wrench. With a little patience and some ingenuity I got the job done, there are a few tricks that make things easier, like using a two piece breaker bar to loosen things, this tool helps with applying torque where there is no room, I personally have an electric torque wrench which is a little larger than most air tools so there was no room for it the wheel well. I could not accurately give a time that it take to complete this job due to the fact that I am really cleaning the underside as well as replacing the rubber bushings with Polyurethane from "Energy Suspension".
Rear Hub Replacement</SPAN>
1. Removal of the spindle nut - Tools, 36mm hub socket, T55 socket, (Get a hardened)
TIPS: Spray the spindle nut with Liquid wrench for a couple of days prior to trying to loosen.
a) With the car on the ground remove the cotter pin and nut cap, then get the torque wrench and try to turn the nut (Good Luck) these things are torqued to 166 ft lbs +, or use a 4ft piece of pipe on the end of your "lifetime warranty wrench" and turn away.
b) Jack the car up take the wheel off, take the cotter pin and nut cap off, put the wheel back on, lower the car and then remove the nut with what ever method you prefer.
2. Unhook emergency brake cable
3. Remove caliper and hang it out of the way (I think 19mm wrenches)
4. Remove rotor
5. Removing the three Torx bolt holding the hub on the knuckle. These are really tight to get at and require removal of the shock and movement of the spring in order to get the proper clearance for ease of removal, for the upper bolt you will have to jack the knuckle up to straighten the axle in order to get a wrench in there.
Jack up the leaf spring,and remove the bolt attaching the spring to the knuckle, I used a bottle jack with a think piece of rubber on top to protect the leaf spring.
6. Remove whole assembly from rear knuckle.
7. Clean everything as desired, and install in reverse order
Note: Put some grease or antisieze on the spindle splines
Note: Before final torque of the spindle nut put the wheels back on and lower to ground.
- Spindle Nut = 166ft lbs (Auto) 200ft lbs(Manual) The Books does not say anything about the 200 ft lbs for the manual but consensus has it that this is best.
- Brake Caliper</EM> = 60ft lbs upper, 40ft lbs lower
- Hub Bolts x 3 = 60ft lbs
07-19-05, 09:36 PM #8scorp508Guest
It is a T55, not a T45 for the tox bolts. I also agree with the 200 ft. lbs. for the manual transmission cars. I have had 0 trouble since using that figure.
07-21-05, 06:34 AM #9
Thank you again for the information. I am on the east coast and we are in a heat was 90 + tempatures with high humidity and when I get home from work I am just whipped with barely enough energy to take a shower. I get it done this weekend for sure. Thanks again
07-24-05, 03:14 PM #10
Your project is awesome. Continued good luck!
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