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Thread: Alignment specs?
- 09-21-03, 07:58 PM #1myonnoneGuest
A couple of questions for all you alignment experts.
I've just finished rebuilding the front end (upper/lower ball joints, contol arm bushings, tie rod ends, stabilizer link bushings, stabilizer bushings, ect.) of my 66 big block and want to get it aligned.
I've also just mounted a fresh pair of Michelin 215/70/15's on 67 ralley wheels. Now the questions.
Should I stick with the stock alignment settings?
Am I better off with some other setting due to the wheels and tires I'm running?
Many thanks in advance.
- 09-22-03, 11:35 AM #2
Since you have switched to radial tires, you're best off using the factory specs for cars equipped as such. Tell your shop to use '73 and up Corvette specs.
- 09-22-03, 03:47 PM #3
- Join Date
- Jun 2003
- '66 Red/Blk Coupe, '99 Blk/Blk Coupe
for the street "vette brakes"recommends:
toe in 1/32 in
caster 2 3/4+
toe 1/8 in
- 09-25-03, 07:44 AM #4
I told the alignment shop to dial up 76 specs on their computer. My car tracks as straight as a perfect arrow. I did set the rear up myself, by altering the 66-76 specs on thrust angle from zero to left 1 degree. That keeps the car from instantly changing lanes to the left when I powershift. I also try to keep the rear camber zero - with a partial load in the driver's seat.
I put 60-80 pounds (cat litter, bird seed, whatever you have) in the driver's seat when the car is aligned - as sort of an average of the weight difference between the passengers - when I drive alone, and when my wife is in the car.
Set the ride height where you want it before you get the car aligned, because changing it will disturb the alignment. I use fine thread grade 8 bolts with nylock nuts to raise the rear .5 inch higher than the front. I like a tail high attitude. The bolts also allow me to level the car left to right with a partial load in the driver's seat.