Corvette Action Center en-us Sun, 24 Feb 2019 04:09:54 +0000 PhotoPost ReviewPost 6.0 60 Chamois <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="1190799268_chamois_w450_h400.jpg" src="" alt="1190799268_chamois_w450_h400.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: BoDuke<br /><br />Product Review: Other than the humorous ad on tv, the Shamwow is worthless. I utilized a couple times, put back in the box, and couldnt even tell you where I put that at this point. If your determined to scratch your paint by rubbing a drying product over it, get The Absorber. Myself, I'm sticking with the leaf blower method. Sun, 25 Aug 2013 03:13:25 +0000 Quick Detailer <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="quickdetailer.jpg" src="" alt="quickdetailer.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: BoDuke<br /><br />Product Review: This came in the Meguiars Clay kit I bought. I was able to use liberally when claying my C5, and had some left when I was done. It worked well as a lubricator with the clay, and also by itself as a regular quick detailer. I highly recommend using a waffle weave microfiber towel with it as opposed to a cotton or terry clotgh Sun, 25 Aug 2013 03:08:05 +0000 Smooth Surface Clay Kit <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="megclay.jpg" src="" alt="megclay.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: BoDuke<br /><br />Product Review: 160 grams of clay in 2 80 gram bars. Clay comes in plastic box for storage, a towel, and bottle of quick detailer. I was able to clay my entire C5 (and diligently, not a light job of claying) with only 1/2 of one bar. Pretty awesome. I wasn't thrifty with the detailer either as you want the area to stay wet and lubricated. The supplied towel worked really nice as well. For the $$, I'm very satisfied with the entire Meguiars package. I've recommended it to several people already. Sun, 25 Aug 2013 03:03:22 +0000 C5 Trunk Popper <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="TrunkPopper.jpg" src="" alt="TrunkPopper.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: BoDuke<br /><br />Product Review: Worthless item. The material surrounding the factory latch has no support under it. Thus, when the you close the trunk lid, the spring simply pushes the material down, and not against it. There's nothing solid to offer the spring any resistance. This spring should only cost $5, after all, its just a spring. But since it's for a Vette, they charge 400% more than what its actually worth. I took mine off to save my interior from getting pushed out of shape. Sun, 25 Aug 2013 02:51:33 +0000 C5 Trunk Popper <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="TrunkPopper.jpg" src="" alt="TrunkPopper.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: catbert<br /><br />Product Review: Remove a bolt with provided tool, insert bolt through spring and reinstall. It's a 2 minute job, and the thing works. My problem is the 500% Corvette tax - but then, I didn't HAVE to buy it. Wed, 09 Nov 2011 18:22:29 +0000 1997 - 2004 LED Tail Light Kit <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="X-993.JPG" src="" alt="X-993.JPG" /></a><br /><br />by: bumblbe<br /><br />Product Review: These are one of the best sets of LED taillights out there. Watch out for junk. They flashed too fast when I first installed them, but through this forum I found a flasher made especially for LED conversions that cured the problem. It cost $77 but was well worth the price. Now they flash just like the stock lights. I've had many compliments on how visible they are. Tue, 23 Mar 2010 17:50:12 +0000 1997 - 2004 LED Tail Light Kit <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="X-993.JPG" src="" alt="X-993.JPG" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;p align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/709_03.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;Zip Products LED Tail Light Conversion&quot; title=&quot;Zip Products LED Tail Light Conversion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt; During the 2009 National Corvette Caravan, on the fourth day of the trip, though northeastern Oklahoma and western Arkansas, we followed a C5 with LED taillights for a while. It was a cold, gray day and one thing both my Wife, the Fairest Sandra the Red, and I noted, was how conspicuous the car's brake lights were through the gloom and occasional drizzle. On the fifth day, at a Caravan reform stop at the Kentucky Downs horse racing track north of Nashville, we ran into the guy who owned the car and asked him where he got his rear light conversion kit. He told us it was from Zip Products, so when got home, we rang-up David Walker's guys at Zip and ordered one of item X-993, &quot;97-'04 LED Taillight Kit&quot;. The conversion is so easy to install even a CAC product reviewer can do it. Each C5 taillight assembly is held into the rear fascia by two screws. You remove the stock light, twist the light socket to separate it from the light body, then remove the bulb from the socket. Inside each Zip Products LED light unit, is a wire connector which you push into the existing socket. Then, insert the socket into the Zip light body and twist to lock it in place. Finally, install the light into the fascia with the two screws you took out. Repeat that four times and you're done. &lt;p align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/709_01.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;Zip Products LED Tail Light Conversion&quot; title=&quot;Zip Products LED Tail Light Conversion&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt; Visually, the difference in our C5's brake lights, both in intensity and conspicuity was dramatic, so, with the Zip Products conversion, not only to the LEDs have that high-tech look, but we gain in safety as well. As for the cost? Well...If Zip's LED light conversion saves us from being rear ended by a cell-phone-talking, slow-reacting, distracted driver just one time; it's worth every penny. For more information: Zip Products, 8067 Fast Lane, Mechanicsville VA 23111 800.962.9632 &lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt;. Mon, 11 Jan 2010 00:19:38 +0000 Green Filter <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="green1.gif" src="" alt="green1.gif" /></a><br /><br />by: unclevito<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;p&gt;I like the OEM paper filter best. Better filtration due to large pleated surface area. When restricted you buy another. Gauze and cotton filters may pass dirt. I do not need to risk that with my Corvette. Especially since a new paper element is just as good.&lt;/p&gt; Mon, 21 Dec 2009 03:03:28 +0000 Chamois <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="1190799268_chamois_w450_h400.jpg" src="" alt="1190799268_chamois_w450_h400.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Kent Magnuson<br /><br />Product Review: Have not tried this yet. So far, have not washed the car. Waiting for a drive in the rain instead. Sat, 19 Dec 2009 23:29:12 +0000 Dyno-Proven GM LS1 Thru LS7 Performance Parts <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="SA133.jpg" src="" alt="SA133.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;p&gt;&lt;u&gt;Dyno-Proven GM LS1 Thru LS7 Performance Parts&lt;/u&gt; &lt;br /&gt;by Richard Holdener&lt;br /&gt;Publisher: SA Design&lt;br /&gt;Softcover&lt;br /&gt;160 pages&lt;br /&gt;ISBN-13: 978-1-932494-40-2&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;This book is like having 150+ different magazine articles on Gen 3 V8 dyno tests all in one place. It's hard to argue with the convenience and value of that. Another attractive feature of this book is the way each dyno tested product is covered. Each story is two-pages long with text on the left and images and charts on the right...very orderly and easy to read.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A wide variety of popular modifications–intake throttle bodies, intake manifolds camshafts, cylinder heads, headers, superchargers, turbos and nitrous oxide injection systems–for GM LS1, LS2, LS6 and some Gen 3 truck engines are covered. Most of the parts mainstream modificaitons from name-brand manufacturers rather than obscure items from sources of which you've never heard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The way &lt;u&gt;Dyno-Proven GM LS1 Thru LS7 Performance Parts&lt;/u&gt; reads and Author, Holdener's, background as a magazine writer has us of the opinion that some of the chapters in this book are rewritten or re-edited magazine pieces. If your not a regular reader of Mr. Holdener's magazine content, that's no big deal, but if you're a regular reader of magazines which cover the GM LS-series engine, you might feel a little miffed at paying for a book containing material you've already read.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The book's title implies it contains material on the LS4–there is none. Also, contrary to the title, there is no impartial testing of anything for the LS7. There is test of a C6 Corvette Z06 exhaust system, but the test information was supplied by the system's manufacturer which makes the data suspect. Richard Holdener is quoted at the beginning of the book as saying, &amp;quot;I've always questioned the advertising claims in the performance magazines.&amp;quot; Based on that, his use of data developed for advertising by the exhaust's maker seems strange.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;While we liked the idea of testing so many different modifications, our biggest complaint about the book is the majority of the tests are done with different engines so the reader has no ability to compare similar modifications on the same engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;In spite of some reservations I have about this book, &lt;u&gt;Dyno-Proven GM LS1 Thru LS7 Performance Parts&lt;/u&gt;, it is is currently unique in the Gen 3/Gen 4 technical book market for its subject matter and how it's approached. As a result, I characterize it as a &amp;quot;mixed-bag&amp;quot;–great if you haven't read the stuff before and you're interested in modifying LS1/2/6 engines. Not so good if you read a lot of magazines, you're looking for information on the LS4 or LS7 engines or you want to compare effects of similar parts from different sources.&lt;/p&gt; Sat, 28 Nov 2009 15:11:36 +0000 How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="9780760335437.jpg" src="" alt="9780760335437.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines&lt;br /&gt;by Joseph Potak&lt;br /&gt;Publisher: Motorbooks 2009&lt;br /&gt;Softcover&lt;br /&gt;176 pages&lt;br /&gt;ISBN-13: 978-0-7603-3543-7&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the late-'90s, when I began covering the LS1 engine and it's truck engine siblings for magazines, there were no good technical books, other than Factory Service Manuals, on these engines. What a difference a decade makes. Today, there are many books on the Gen 3/4 engines, most good and some bad. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;This book, &lt;u&gt;How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines&lt;/u&gt; is one of the good spite of one of its little problems being the title itself. This book, by Texas Speed and Performance technician and moderator, Joseph Potak, is really about how to properly assemble a high-performance street or racing Gen 3/4 engine. Content on modifications is pretty limited to engine hard parts and there's little or nothing on camshaft choices, headers, superchargers, nitrous oxide systems or other parts with which you'd modify an LS-series engine. This &amp;quot;problem&amp;quot; really isn't much of an issue–I look at it more as a typographical error in the title than anything else–because this book is a useful reference to anyone, especially DIY's, who are blueprinting and assembling a high-performance Gen 3/4 engine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The book covers short block parts identification, machine work, short block assembly and upper end assembly and it does it with more detail than other books on the Gen 3s and 4s which I've reviewed. That is a good thing because the Gen 3/4 engine builders in the hobby are hungry for information. This book feeds that appetite.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the modification front, there is useful information on aftermarket crankshafts, connecting rods, pistons and cylinder heads but, again, the information is limited and that limiting is a good thing. It allows the depth to which Potak goes in covering machine work and assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of this book which makes it a good read–or maybe I should say: a good look–is its photography. Imagery is important in a how-to book such as this. &lt;u&gt;How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines&lt;/u&gt; abounds with large photos which are well lit and show clear details of what's covered in the text.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The book does have a few quirks, such as slang terminology. Use of the hobby's general term &amp;quot;power adder&amp;quot; is common. They're not &amp;quot;power adders.&amp;quot; They are &amp;quot;superchargers&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;turbochargers&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;nitrous oxide injection systems&amp;quot;. The strange phrase &amp;quot;oil journal clearance&amp;quot; is used for main an rod &amp;quot;bearing clearance&amp;quot;–what's an &amp;quot;oil journal, anyway? The word &amp;quot;larger&amp;quot; is used in discussions of camshaft profiles but more aggressive cams are not &amp;quot;larger&amp;quot;. They may have longer durations and higher lifts but the cams are the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The book also suffers a little because of its design. Apparently, to the book's Art Director, trendy looking pages trump the need to supply good content to readers. While the photos in this book are quite good and a cut above some books on the same subject from Motorbooks' competitors, many pages are designed with images on the left and, on the right, captions, set in teeny-tiny type, afloat on expansive white spaces. The captions are hard to read and the white space is a waste. Sheesh. Fill that space with more information on Gen 3/4 engines!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Executive summary: yeah, the book as a few design problems and a slightly misleading title but the meat and potatoes of &lt;u&gt;How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines&lt;/u&gt; is good stuff. This book now has a spot on my Gen 3/4 bookshelf.&lt;/p&gt; Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:31:31 +0000 Quick Detailer <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="quickdetailer.jpg" src="" alt="quickdetailer.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Bob 97<br /><br />Product Review: I have used Meguiars products for years. I have my son using them now. I have tried others but I stick with Meguiars. Tue, 25 Aug 2009 18:35:47 +0000 Chamois <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="1190799268_chamois_w450_h400.jpg" src="" alt="1190799268_chamois_w450_h400.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: batmbl<br /><br />Product Review: This product does NOT work the way it does on TV. It actually makes more work when drying the car, instead of making the job easier. Microfiber towels work 10x better! Mon, 04 May 2009 00:14:46 +0000 How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="SA147_1.jpg" src="" alt="SA147_1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;b&gt;How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner Publisher: Car Tech 2008 Softcover 152 pages ISBN-13: 978-1-932494-60-1&lt;/b&gt; The General Motors Generation Three Small-Block V8, the 'LS1', debuted in the 1997 Vette. A Camaro version came in 1998 followed by three truck engines in Chevy and GMC full-sized pickups for 1999. Now, a decade later, with millions of engines manufactured, a growing number of Gen IIIs in service may need overhauls and there's a certain part of the pool of those of interest to DIYs. That interest may be growing these days because of the country's current economic trauma forcing people to be cost conscious enough to consider rebuilding their own engine. That brings us to Chris Werner's, new book How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines. The second title of what I call Car Tech's 'four volume set' on the LS seres. Anyone who works on a Gen III, or its newer sibling, Gen IV, and is doing heavy engine work, needs this book. Even if your not overhauling an LS motor, if you are into modern GM powertrain issues, a lot of the content in this title is valuable information. How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines is arranged in the Car Tech Workbook Series' usual format. It's divided into sections covering major parts of an engine overhaul, then subdivided into short articles discussing each step of the process. Sprinkled amongst that are sidebar stories on various important subjects. What we don't like about this format plagues many titles in Car Tech's 'Workbook Series' and that is pictures which are too small. In a instructional book like this, pictures can be of more value than text in demonstrating to the beginning DIY how to perform a task. In reviewing this book, there a number of occasions where I had to use a magnifying glass to see details in a picture illustrating a point made in the text. That is unacceptable and the only major problem which weakens this title's appeal. A portion of this book covers high-performance modification of Gen III/IV engines. Chris Werner told us via email that he wanted to continue the proven Car Tech 'formula' of mixing some performance with basic rebuild information. Gven the problem with itty-bitty photos, his publisher would have been better eliminating some of the performance discussion then use that space for larger, more useful pictures. Car Tech already has a good high-performance and racing LS-Series title in Will Handzel's outstanding How to Build High-Performance LS1/LS6 V-8s, so readers wanting hi-po information could be steered to that book. Other than its tiny photos, Car Tech's 'Workbook Series' format works quite well. The other notable deficiency of this book is its limited discussion of two characteristics in which the Gen III/IV engines differ from the traditional Small-Blocks and just about every other GM engine prior to the advent of the LS-Series. Many were produced with both 'negative deck-height' and 'negative piston-to-bore' clearances. While the book touches lightly on deck height, there's nothing about the piston clearance issue. Both are dramatic departures from the engine technology some LS-Series newbes might expect and, thus, deserved more in-depth coverage. In spite of those problems, overall, Werner's book is just about a 'must' for budding LS-Series aficionados. It's methods of instructions and the wide range of material makes the book valuable for both beginners as well as intermediates with previous experience with engine work but whom are taking their first steps into the Gen 3/4 arena. That said, I differ philosophically with the Author on a couple of issues. First, How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines advocates Sealed Power 'Plastigage' when setting bearing clearances. Werner's feels Plastigage is a better choice than 'cheap' measuring equipment. In my mind, that implies a bit of arrogance on the Author's part in assuming that DIYs will universally gravitate towards inaccurate tools. I disagree with that and feel that measuring with measuring tools of the same quality used in general machine shops-which can be purchased at reasonable prices-is a better choice than Plastigage. I polled a couple of engine builders and neither disagreed. Secondly was Warner's belief that impact tools should not be used during disassembly because they cause bolts to strip threads. Again, I polled a couple of engine builders I respect and both felt that was inaccurate. This reviewer (an 'advanced DIY' with 25+ years of experience) has never had a bolt hole thread failure solely due to use of an impact wrench during disassembly. While use of power tools during assembly should be left for production lines at GM Powertrain, if threads are going to strip on disassembly; it won't matter whether you are turning the bolt with a combination wrench, a 1/2-drive socket or an impact gun. When queried about this issue, the Author, also, cites 'work-hardening' of the bolt due to removal with impact tools as a threat. I say to that (as do engine builders and an spokesperson at Automotive Racing Products, the premier fastener manufacturer in the aftermarket)...bunk. But, again, those last two points are philosophical differences between the Author, engine builders, fastener engineers and an engine-building book reviewer, not issues which will prevent a good overhaul. You can rebuild an engine in an acceptable manner using Plastigage and restricting your self to hand tools during disassembly. You just might not be able to do it as accurately or as easily. Chris Werner's How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines is a great read for anyone interested in the deep-gearhead side of the Gen III/IV engines and pretty much a requirement if you're going to pull the motor out of your C5 or C6 for heavy maintenance. The only things keeping this book from being 'excellent' rather than just very good, are teeny-tiny photos. Thu, 26 Feb 2009 12:03:56 +0000 Eagle F1 GS-D3 Tire <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="gsd31.jpg" src="" alt="gsd31.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Tuna<br /><br />Product Review: I've used regular D3's on my C4 and was very happy with them. Quiet, all weather, great traction and long life. I'm using EMT versions on my CTS-V now and I'm very happy there also. The origina Super Car tires on the &quot;V had great dry traction but sucked in the rain and were awful on snow - and they wore out fast. The D3's on the &quot;V&quot; have have nearly the same dry summer performance, are excellent in the rain and worked okay on ice recently. They still have plenty of tread left with twice as many miles on them as the Super Car tires. To bad they don't come in EMT sizes for all the Vettes. Tue, 24 Feb 2009 21:19:16 +0000 Impact Wrench (Model #199050) <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="671_05.jpg" src="" alt="671_05.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;b&gt;by Hib Halverson Technical Writer for Internet &amp; Print Media November 27, 2008&lt;/b&gt;&lt;p&gt;Until recently, I hadn't had an impact wrench in my tool box since I was in my '20s, working in the automotive service trade. Once I left the trades and began to work on race cars and other project vehicles, there was no need to be in a hurry to beat the flat rate and I sort of developed this somewhat elitist attitude that really good mechanics were much more careful and, thus, were above using those brutish, noisy impact guns.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;That was my thinking for many years, but in the last 12 months or so I've run across several jobs that had me rethinking the impact wrench issue. The first was replacement of the rear axle pinion seal on my '01 Camaro. I don't know how tight the pinion nut is because it's tightened until you achieve a specific pinion bearing preload measured by rotating the pinion with an inch-pound torque wrench, but the nut is takes a 1 1/4&quot; socket and the GM J-tool needed to loosen it is a four-foot spanner wrench. That nut's gotta be majorly tight. The next job on the list after that was to get the heads off my 1971 Big-Block Coupe with the engine in the car. These heads have been on the motor for 15 years and were installed with ARP Head Bolts Pro Series bolts which are tightened to higher torque than stock bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm not in my 20s any more. I was tired of fasteners which are really hard to break loose. I'm tired of being an elitist, no-impact-gun kind of guy. My solution...go down to Sears and get a Craftsman impact gun.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;I selected one of the 1/2-inch drive, air, impact wrenches in the &quot;Craftsman Professional&quot; line, the model 199050, which is made for Craftsman by Ingersoll Rand, the renowned power tool maker. This tool generates 1250 impacts per minute and is capable of 400-500 ft/lb torque running forward and 500 ft/lb in reverse . It's designed for a maximum air pressure of 90-psi. A great feature of the Craftsman 199050 is that it's the lightest of all the company's 1/2-drive units at 4.5 lbs. because its housing is a composite material. Its hammer case and all the rotating and reciprocating parts are metallic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I got my new impact back to the garage, installed a 1/4 NPT air fitting in the grip, squirted a few drops of Red Line Synthetic Air Tool oil in the air intake, connected the air line and pulled the trigger. Wow...the loud squeal of an impact gun, free-running at 9500 rpm brought back memories of my days in the service trade.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;My first job with this new toy was that rear axle pinion seal. I marked the pinion threads, the nut and the pinion yoke. I snapped a Craftsman, 1/2-drive, 1 1/4-in. socket on the gun--you have to use a non-impact, thin wall, conventional (chrome finish), six-point socket for this because the thick wall impact sockets won't fit on the nut due to the closeness of the surrounding structure of the pinion yoke. I pulled the 199050's trigger and zz-rrrr-ip. That nut was off. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hey, I'm liking this impact stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A month or so later, I had the Big-Block in my '71 torn down to the point that I was ready to lift the cylinder heads. Since the bolts are ARPs with 12-point heads and Craftsman does not market 12-point impact sockets, I rang-up my Matco Tools guy and ordered a 1/2-inch, 1/2-drive, 12-point impact socket. When it arrived, using it along with using either a short- or medium-length Craftsman impact extension bar, I zipped those head bolts out in no time. The only bolts that are a little tough are the two rear bolts on the left head. Because of the proximity of the brake booster, you have to get the right combination of the socket, a 1/2-drive impact universal and an extension. Once you have that, the Craftsman 199050 spins those two out easily. Getting the bolts out may have been easy, but now, I had to lean over and lift those cast iron heads off the motor. Ugh!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've been using the Craftsman impact for about two months. I like its lightweight compared to the impacts I used back in my days in the service trade but, I wish it was even lighter. Next, I like the ease with which the forward or reverse buttons on the back of the tool can be selected by simply pushing with your thumb. The large, power select dial is a neat feature for those who use mechanic's gloves when working on cars. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;For serious DIY work or light-to-medium, service trade use, the Craftsman Professional model 199050 Impact Wrench seems a pretty darn good value and it works quite well. It available at your Sears store or at and its fully-guaranteed for two years.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/671_05.jpg&quot; width=&quot;375&quot; height=&quot;364&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; alt=&quot;Craftsman Impact Gun&quot; title=&quot;Craftsman Impact Gun&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The Craftsman Impact Wrench, along with a selection of Craftsman impact sockets. That type of socket is advised in almost all occasions when the impact gun is used because they are made of a harder grade of steel and, thus, have better durability when driven by an impact tool. Image: Author.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/671_06.jpg&quot; width=&quot;375&quot; height=&quot;249&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; alt=&quot;Craftsman Impact Gun&quot; title=&quot;Craftsman Impact Gun&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Be it a Camaro rear axle or a Corvette differential assembly, an impact wrench makes removal of the pinion nut much easier. Image: Author.&lt;/p&gt; Wed, 03 Dec 2008 15:10:38 +0000 Eagle F1 GS-D3 Tire <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="gsd31.jpg" src="" alt="gsd31.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: vettemycar<br /><br />Product Review: no complaint at all a great tire Tue, 12 Aug 2008 23:31:23 +0000 C5 Trunk Popper <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="TrunkPopper.jpg" src="" alt="TrunkPopper.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: CTYANK2<br /><br />Product Review: This is a great product that works exactly as described. It was shipped promptly and I installed it in just a couple of minutes. Now my trunk opens with ease! Thu, 01 May 2008 16:22:14 +0000 C-Magic Wax and Cyclo Polisher <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="candc.jpg" src="" alt="candc.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: JEC<br /><br />Product Review: This is the best polisher you can purchase.. Small price to pay to keep your car looking like you had a professional detail your car. The only thing I would suggest is buy plenty of pads because once people know you have a Cyclo they will want to borrow it. I only wish I would have bought one years ago. Mon, 24 Mar 2008 11:25:25 +0000 C5 Trunk Popper <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="TrunkPopper.jpg" src="" alt="TrunkPopper.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: 04 Commemorative<br /><br />Product Review: Love it ! Sat, 19 Jan 2008 20:20:07 +0000 Eagle F1 GS-D3 Tire <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="gsd31.jpg" src="" alt="gsd31.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: The above comment that the Goodyear F1 GS-D3 is a &quot;Summer&quot; tire is incorrect and based on opinion rather than actual testing. The person posting faults the D3 for being a &quot;Summer Tire based on his expectation that it will have good traction in below freezing temperatures. That's a ridiculous argument. The Goodyear F1 GS-D3 is an outstanding dry and wet traction tire. That it can be used in above freezing cold weather in the winter is demonstrated clearly in my test...see the pictures of the car being driven in the rain in February? Further evidence that it was being used with good results in cold but not freezing weather is the picture of the snow plow truck, on the same road at the same time, headed for higher altitude. What the D3 is not is an &quot;all season&quot; or &quot;snow&quot; tire. Anyone trying to use it that way is a fool. If you are occasionally driving a Corvette in below freezing temperatures in light snow or minimal icing, you need the Goodyear F1 All-Season, which is available in some but not all C5 sizes, or similar tire from an other manufacturer. If you drive your Corvette regularly in below freezing weather over snow-covered roads or roads with significant icing, you need a true &quot;winter&quot; or &quot;snow&quot; tire, such as the Bridgestone Blizzak. Bottom line. The F1 GS D3 is a &quot;summer tire&quot; but it's also a cold and wet weather tire. It is not an all-season or snow tire. Sun, 13 Jan 2008 19:39:23 +0000 Eagle F1 GS-D3 Tire <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="gsd31.jpg" src="" alt="gsd31.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Bonnell<br /><br />Product Review: I will not spend any time reviewing the merits of this tire used as designed (summer) since Hib has already provided a true review. I will comment on the use of these tires in freezing weather. These tires are not recommended for freezing or near freezing weather. I live in central Arkansas. Here the temperatures drop to freezing and below on a regular basis from October thru March. However, there are not too many days where the temp is near or below freezing for the morning and afternoon commute. In very cold weather (teens) the tires seem like they are solid and almost seem to slide across the driveway when the wheels are turned hard. At freezing or just above the tires feel normal and they drive without problems. I would not try to drive the car in snow. On the rare days that we do get snow I don't grive at all. On cold days I drive the car and I do not push it around curves and I allow a little extra stopping distance between myself and others. Except for the precautions mentioned above I drive with these tires year round with no problems. I will be careful rather than switching to all seasons tires. I just hate to give up the tremendous performance that these tires provide. I got 28K + out of the last set of the GS-D3s and I could have comfortably gotten over 30K. I was headed out on a road trip so I decided to go ahead and replace the worn tires before I left. Sat, 12 Jan 2008 22:19:43 +0000 C5 Trunk Popper <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="TrunkPopper.jpg" src="" alt="TrunkPopper.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Bonnell<br /><br />Product Review: This product works exactly as advertised. It consists of a spring with a special 'tail' that is attached to the trunk lid by one of the trunk lid latch torx screws (torx driver is included with the kit). Once the spring is attached a plastic cap fits on the end of the spring and you are done. Now when you release the the trunk the spring pops the trunk lid up as it should. This is simple and effective device. I am glad I finally ordered it. This can be found at Sat, 12 Jan 2008 21:53:18 +0000 Wypall X80 Towels <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="41041_s.jpg" src="" alt="41041_s.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Dave77<br /><br />Product Review: No need to launder old dirty, oily, or greasy rags. Just use and dispose of. Can be used for everything from degreasing with solvents, lint-free engine assembly, to washing and polishing. I've used them for years. More info on different types of Wypalls at [url=][/url] Sun, 06 Jan 2008 02:59:14 +0000 NXT Generation Tech Wax <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="product_G12718.jpg" src="" alt="product_G12718.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: RevMatt<br /><br />Product Review: A griots clay bar tx and best of show wax beats the daylights out of this stuff! Thu, 20 Dec 2007 07:03:05 +0000 C-Magic Wax and Cyclo Polisher <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="candc.jpg" src="" alt="candc.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Paul Douglas<br /><br />Product Review: I owned a business in South Florida many years ago, called PermaShine. This business polished cars, boats and motorhomes. We used Cyclos exclusively, and had eight or ten of them. They were essentially bulletproof. Great product. Fri, 07 Dec 2007 22:15:39 +0000 C-Magic Wax and Cyclo Polisher <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="candc.jpg" src="" alt="candc.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: hub_cap<br /><br />Product Review: I have been using C-Magic on both of our Corvettes, Ann. Red and LeMans Blue for two years now. I get an excellent long lasting shine with no work. In the case of C-Magic you get what you pay for. I have given away all of the remaining other products that I have purchased. Only C-magic for our Corvettes!! I have recommend the products to other satisfied customers that have personally thanked me for introducing C-Magic to them. Fred Wed, 31 Oct 2007 15:02:36 +0000 C-Magic Wax and Cyclo Polisher <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="candc.jpg" src="" alt="candc.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;p&gt;My late-April resolution, made at the C5/C6 Birthday Bash on '07, to &quot;do better on car care&quot; coupled with what I learned researching C-Magic Wax (&lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt;), had me ordering one of the company's &quot;World Class Corvette Detail Kits&quot;. After a week, FedEx Ground shows-up and a few minutes later, open on the work bench is this Kit with one bottle of each C-Magic product along with a couple of applicator pads and a micro-fiber towel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Uh-oh&quot; I thought as my heart stuck in my throat, &quot;This looks like work. What this 'shop' needs is a good buffer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Actually, I'd been thinking about a buffer for a while. I'd polled a few people in my Corvette club who are hardcore waxers (they shall remain nameless) and use a power buffer for at least part of the waxing process and found most of them use a single-disc, random-orbital-buffer such as what Porter Cable (a big name in buffers I come to find), Waxmaster or Griot's Garage sell. It seems that single-disc, random-orbitals in the $75-$125 range dominate. I even tried one of them and while I very-much liked the labor-saving aspects of it, I hated the vibration and disliked the way these buffers, most of which are really industrial-style random-orbital sanders, de-contented to lower the cost to consumers then fitted with buffing heads, felt and handled. I kept on my buffer quest, but looking for more higher-end products that would vibrate less and last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;In talking with the C-Magic folks, I learned they recommend a dual-head, orbital buffer called a &quot;Cyclo&quot;. Once again, I did some research. It's made by Cyclo Toolmakers in Colorado (&lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt;). The patented Cyclo was designed 54-years ago for polishing the bare aluminum and painted surfaces on large aircraft, particularly those owned by airlines. It gained widespread acceptance in the aerospace industry and later in the military and amongst professional car care specialists.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Cyclo is a timeless piece of equipment which has changed little since it was introduced in 1953. Today, among its many high-profile users is the United States Air Force, specifically the 89th Air Lift Wing. Non-military types will know it better as the folks who fly and maintain Air Force One, the VC-25 (military version of the Boeing 747-200B) used by the President of the United States along with the aircraft used by the Vice President, the Secretary-of-State and the Air Force Chief of Staff. Needless to say, if you've ever seen Air Force One in-person, you've marveled at the aircraft's spotless appearance. How do they do that? Polishing with Cyclos. They have so many of them which are used constantly, that once every five years or so, the Air Force will ship pallets of them back to Cyclo Toolmakers for service. Cyclo &quot;tunes them up&quot; and ships them back to the USAF. There are Cyclos all over the world which have been in service 40 years or more.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The feature which makes a Cyclo unique is the overlapping, rotating motion of the two heads which mimics the two-handed, manual polishing/waxing technique old-school car care aficionados use when they hand-wax their cars. The Cyclo's buffing heads, which are run by a transmission geared to the device's electric motor, are dynamically balanced such that, when the unit is running and the heads are rotating, there is no vibration. The way this works is very similar to how balance shafts in large-displacement four-cylinder and V-6 engines damp vibration at idle and lower engine speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;This was a no-brainer.&lt;/p&gt; &lt;p&gt;I ordered a Cyclo.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;A week or so later, FedEx Ground was back again with a box from Cyclo Toolmakers. In it was a gleaming, Cyclo Model 5 (PN 80-010), the 110-volt electric unit which features a 1/3-hp motor which turns its heads at about 3000 rpm. There are three other Cyclos, two for use with either U.S. or E.U. 230-volt power and a third which is air powered. All Cyclos share the same transmission and head assemblies. All that differs is how they are powered. My Model 5 was fitted with Cyclo's new, optional DoublePrecision, quick-connect adapters in place of the standard head assemblies. A Cyclo, at six pounds, weighs almost the same as the Porter Cable 6-in., single-head, random-orbital, at 5.75 lbs, but it's ergonomically designed for either one-hand or two-hand operation. I am by no means a muscular guy but I had no problem handling it, either one-handed or with both hands on either horizontal or vertical panels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the unit's weight allows it to make your job easier on horizontal surfaces. Its six-pounds provides the right amount of pressure on the surface being polished or waxed. You don't have to push down. I just turn the Cyclo on and use my hands to guide it's course letting it's weight provide the pressure. Lastly, some might balk at the Cyclo's price, about 300 bucks, but consider this...I have three Vettes, for a total investment of about 100 grand. I think I can afford $300 for a tool which helps me keep them nice-looking. While the made-in-USA Cyclo is about twice the price of a good, single-head, random orbital, it does a better job, does it faster and will last a lifetime. Chinese-made, 6-in. orbital grinders fitted with buffing pads will last...what? About three years-maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;So far I've polished four vehicles with C-Magic World Class Wax and the Cyclo, two Vettes-a Dark Purple Metallic '95 ZR-1 and a LeMans Blue, '04 Commemorative Z06-a Blue '07 Chevy HHR and a White '01 Camaro. I apply the product with the Cyclo, one panel at a time, which is the best way to evenly spread the polish to all parts of the car. I wait until it hazes. Then, I sparingly spray C-Magic Detail Wax on, again, going panel-by-panel. Lastly, I wipe the haze away with micro-fiber towels. Yeah, this part you do by hand, but you apply no significant pressure nor do you hand buff anything. Just wipe enough to remove the haze. So easy even a five-year-old could do it. C-Magic Detail Wax is a sort of activator for the C-Magic World Class Wax. The polish can be used alone, but the two together ensure the best durability of the finish-figure six months before you have to redo it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;I tell you what, the three dark cars, especially the Purple ZR-1, had a shine that was deep and warm with clarity unlike that of the polish I'd been using before which, was either RainDance or Turtle Wax. I learned a key lesson: as is true with many Corvette related products, with car polish, you get what you pay for. If you buy an $8 tub of wax, you're going to get an $8 shine. If you buy a $20 dollar bottle of World-Class Wax, you're going to get an impressive finish that is equal to that of any other high-end polymer-based products and which exceeds the visual quality of high-end, carnuba-based wax products. In talking with the people tho make C-Magic I learned that on dark cars, multiple applications of C-Magic further improve the look, whereas multiple applications of any natural wax product eventually &quot;yellow&quot; the finish, so, I'm getting ready to do horizontal panels on the Z06 a second time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;The last thing I want to say about C-Magic products is they seem to be the only car polish products in the high-end of the market-amongst the Zanios, Zymols, Klassies Adam's and so forth-which are made by a company owned by Corvette people. When you talk to Kermit Dye, one of the owners of C-Magic, you soon learn that, yeah, he owns a company which makes car care products; but he's first and foremost a Corvette owner and enthusiast. I have to admit, that's part of the reason I gave the products a try. That, plus how my Corvettes look and that getting them to look that way-ok, I had help from the best buffer in the world, the Cyclo-has me firmly in the C-Magic camp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;table width=&quot;400&quot; cellpadding=&quot;4&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/cyclocmagic1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;265&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; alt=&quot;Author with the Cyclo Polisher&quot; /&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;The beauty of the Cyclo is no vibration and that, while it looks heavy, it's really not, weighing about the same as many single disc orbitals.&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/cyclocmagic2.jpg&quot; width=&quot;363&quot; height=&quot;313&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; alt=&quot;Cyclo Polisher by Cyclo Toolmakers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;The Cyclo is built to last made of beefy alunimum castings, an HD electric motor and shafts riding on ball or roller-bearings.&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/cyclocmagic3.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;289&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; alt=&quot;Cyclo Polisher by Cyclo Toolmakers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;The Review Author is sold on C-Magic Wax. His polished '04 Z06 is in the background.&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;&lt;/table&gt; Wed, 24 Oct 2007 01:13:49 +0000 Bench Grinder/Buffer <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="629_02.jpg" src="" alt="629_02.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: Last Fall, I was out in the shop on a Sunday afternoon, sipping a cold beer, watching a late season NEXTEL Cup race and cleaning up my work bench. I got to thinking: I was one of the few advanced DIYs who didn't have a bench grinder and more and more often, lately, I was wishing I had one. At the next commercial, I went in the office, fired-up the computer, got on Eastwood's web site (&lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt;) which sells a lot of DIY automotive tools, and looked at bench grinders. Everyone has told me, when I get a grinder, I should get a Baldor because they're the best in the business. Eastwood sells Baldors and I looked at them long enough to read the prices. Baldor is cool stuff which I can't afford. Eastwood, also, sells a more reasonably priced &quot;8-in. Buffer/Grinder Combo&quot; (PN 11930) at 99 bucks, a price I could handle. This high value tool offers the utility of both a buffer and grinder. It comes with an 8&quot; spiral sewn buff wheel and an 8&quot; grinding wheel. The grinding wheel is shielded by bolt-on guard. The grinder part also has a built-in work rest and movable eyeshield. The Eastwood requires 110V power and delivers 1/2-hp at 3450 rpm, perfect most of the buffing and grinding tasks a DIY might do. I ordered Eastwood's Buffer/Grinder Combo along with an Eastwood Variable Height Tool Stand (PN 43512) on which to mount it. When this rig arrived, because I wasn't going to do much buffing but I did want something for removing paint or polishing stuff, I removed its buff wheel then bagged and stored it. I also removed the heavy, stone, grinding wheel and stored it too. On the end where the buff was, I installed a pair of 6.5-inch, very-find-grade, Buff and Blend Discs (PN 850708) from the Standard Abrasives Motorsports Division. Open-weave, non-woven nylon, Buff &amp; Blend wheels have abrasive grain throughout. They can be used with lubricants and solvents. They cut labor time but not into the part. B&amp;B works best for fine finishing and cleaning of light scratches on aluminum. They quickly remove carbon from pistons and valve stems. Great for light deburring head bolts and studs. One disc is flexible when run alone, but you can stack discs to stiffen the wheel for the desired finish and removal rate. &quot;B&amp;B&quot; wheels are safer than a wire wheel and leave a much nicer finish. On the other end of the Eastwood Buffer/Grinder, I installed an 8-inch medium-density, fine-grade, Convolute Deburring Wheel (PN 853393), also from SA's Motorsports Division. Convolute Wheels are constructed by wrapping non-woven, abrasive-grain-impregnated, nylon around a hard core. Each layer is bonded with an adhesive to form a homogeneous wheel. SA's Convolute Wheels are much lighter than traditional grinding wheels. Convolute Wheels deburr parts more smoothly which reduces user discomfort and fatigue. Their dense, non-woven nylon construction has them lasting longer and holding an edge for a greater period of time. The medium-density, fine-grade Convolute Wheel is best for general purpose deburring work. The combination of the Eastwood 1/2-horse Grinder and Standard Abrasives Buff &amp; Blend and Convolute Wheels has worked very well in my shop for about 8 months. While a more expensive Baldor grinder might be a better choice for a professional shop which uses a buffer or grinder 8-hours a day, the more cost-effective Eastwood unit, fitted with Standard Abrasives products serves my DIY needs of occasional general purpose grinding and deburring much better. In fact, I don't understand how I got along without that Eastwood grinder for all these years. Fri, 17 Aug 2007 12:57:54 +0000 How to Build High-Performance Chevy Ls1/Ls6 Engines <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="139051.jpg" src="" alt="139051.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Chemdawg99<br /><br />Product Review: After reading this book, I have clear, unclouded understanding of what it REALLY takes to add HP to my Corvette. Bottom Line: read and follow this book and don't believe the hype that most of the aftermarket vendor and Corvette forum motorheads put out about HP gains! Tue, 14 Aug 2007 05:04:13 +0000 50-Series Mufflers <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="50_series.jpg" src="" alt="50_series.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Aceves81<br /><br />Product Review: I installed a pair of Flowmaster 40 series with Delta Flow Technology on my '81 4-speed Corvette, and wow! is a vast improvement over the stock, restrictive mufflers. I absolutely love the sound improvement!!! sounds like a Corvette should without being too overly loud!......I highly recommend this series Flowmasters for Corvettes!!!...the 50 series are too subdued &amp; quiet for my taste, so the 40s are the way to go, my friends!!! will not be disappointed!!! Sat, 28 Jul 2007 18:03:29 +0000 Eagle F1 GS-D3 Tire <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="gsd31.jpg" src="" alt="gsd31.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: JACS VET<br /><br />Product Review: Currently on my third set of these. All sets run on a 2003 roadster I drive like I stole it. Very impressed with the even tire wear I have gotten all the way around. I do however wish they made a 305/30/19 or 315/30/19 series for the rear as the 285/30/19 I have on it looks a little stretched for the rim width I am running. Tue, 17 Jul 2007 02:11:49 +0000 Optimum™ Wiper Blades <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="1.JPG" src="" alt="1.JPG" /></a><br /><br />by: 6 Shooter<br /><br />Product Review: I have these on 2 out of our 3 vehicles. As soon as the 3rd vehicle wears out it current blades they will be on all 3. Thu, 31 May 2007 02:00:40 +0000 50-Series Mufflers <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="50_series.jpg" src="" alt="50_series.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: BlackMark<br /><br />Product Review: My Delta 50's came in an axle-back kit,the American Thunder,for my '05 C6.Install was straightforward,with plenty of adjustment to get the polished stainless tips oriented perfectly.The sound is deep and throaty as all Flowmaster lovers have come to expect,but toned down to a level that is a quiet burble at cruise.At less than $400.delivered,this kit is an absolute bargain!My exhaust search is over. Tue, 22 May 2007 06:09:35 +0000 P-80 Rubber Lubricant <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="P-80-Group.jpg" src="" alt="P-80-Group.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: Before I learned about P80 Rubber Lubricant, whenever I had to assemble tight fitting rubber or plastic parts, I used whatever was available. It might have been WD40, silicone spray or even soapy water. None of those was the perfect solution for every job. WD40 leaves a thin film of oily residue that takes time to evaporate. Also WD40 sometimes is not a sufficient lubricant. Lastly, the petroleum distillates in WD40 can decrease the life of some rubbers or plastics. Pure silicone spray sometimes evaporates too quickly. Soapy water doesn&amp;#8217;t work well in really tight fit situations.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Conversely, P80 seems to be the one rubber or plastic lubricant that works in just about any assembly situation. P80 was originally designed as an assembly lubricant for use in manufacturing products having rubber or plastic parts that fit into other parts tightly. In that type of assembly operation you need some type of temporary lubricant that greatly eases assembly but later dries, but not too quickly, leaving no residue of any kind.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;P80 is available in two versions, a water-like &amp;#8220;emulsion&amp;#8221; and, for overhead or vertical applications, a gel called &amp;#8220;P-80 THIX.&amp;#8221; &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I&amp;#8217;ve been testing P80 and P80 THIX for several months. I&amp;#8217;ve used it to assemble anti-roll bar mounts, both rubber and urethane. It&amp;#8217;s worked well for installing stud-mounted, rubber exhaust hangers which have to slip over a retaining knob on the end of the stud. It makes putting rubber and plastic grommets into metal or fiberglass surfaces quite easy. The rubber plugs that go into valve covers to hold PCV valves pop right in when lubed up with a little P80. There are many different uses of P80 in DIY Corvette service.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Yet another use for P80 is a lubricant for machining, cutting, turning or grinding rubber or plastic pieces.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In my shop, P80 or P80 THIX has replaced all other substances I once used for rubber lubrication. For more information on P80 and P80 THIX, contact International Products Corp., Box 70, Burlington NJ 08016, Ph: 609-386-8770, Web: &lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt; Thu, 17 May 2007 18:20:25 +0000 Corvette C6 <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="137470.jpg" src="" alt="137470.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;u&gt;Corvette C6&lt;/u&gt;, by Phil Berg, Forward by David Hill, published by Motorbooks International, 2004&lt;br /&gt; Hardcover, 9x12-in., 160 pages, 200 color photos&lt;br /&gt; ISBN 0-7603-1865-4&lt;br /&gt; MBI Publishing Co.&lt;br /&gt; 380 Jackson St.&lt;br /&gt; St. Paul MN 55101&lt;br /&gt; 800-826-6600&lt;br /&gt;;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;There are probably more &amp;#8220;coffee table&amp;#8221; style-books about the Chevrolet Corvette than any other sports car. A search of for &amp;#8220;Corvette (hardcover)&amp;#8221; returned over two thousand results. Admittedly, not all those are coffee table titles, but even if only a third are large-package-size, full-color, glossy-paper, hardback Vette books, that&amp;#8217;s a heck of a lot of titles from which to choose.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;What sets Phil Berg&amp;#8217;s &lt;U&gt;Corvette C6&lt;/U&gt; a cut above the others are three characteristics: 1) It&amp;#8217;s the first hardback title on the all-new, 2005, C6 Vette, 2) it&amp;#8217;s the only C6 book to be sanctioned, approved and have its publication supported by General Motors and 3) GM was engaged enough with the project to have Corvette Chief Engineer, David Hill, write the book&amp;#8217;s Forward.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Another thing that sets this title apart from some others is photography that is nothing short of very good and, in most cases, excellent. Many of the images were shot by noted Corvette photographer, Richard Prince, in the picturesque Piedmont hills of Virginia and at Virginia International Raceway. Prince&amp;#8217;s work considerably enhances the visual experience of this book. The only thing that keeps all the art in &lt;u&gt;Corvette C6&lt;/u&gt; from being outstanding are a few color shift problems, but that is a production issue not a problem with the photo work.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Author, Phil Berg, is a former &lt;i&gt;Car and Driver&lt;/i&gt; magazine staff member and his material has appeared in &lt;i&gt;AutoWeek, Sports Car International&lt;/i&gt; and &lt;i&gt;Corvette Quarterly&lt;/i&gt;. He&amp;#8217;s, also, the author of MBI&amp;#8217;s best-selling &lt;u&gt;Ultimate Garages&lt;/u&gt;, so he was a natural choice to write &lt;u&gt;Corvette C6&lt;/u&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Early on, this book pulls the reader into one of the most interesting aspects of the C6 story with Chapter Two&amp;#8217;s discussion of exterior design. This part of the book is attractive for its extensive collection of drawings and pictures of the various interpretations of the C6 shape which were done during 1999-2002 as the car&amp;#8217;s exterior evolved. Some of this imagery has never been seen before and will probably remain exclusive to this book. The illustrations and pictures cover just about everything, from Tom Peter&amp;#8217;s landmark first rendering of the C6 theme, to full-sized wind-tunnel models and final design candidates. The accompanying text is, also, interesting, but doesn&amp;#8217;t quite have the impact of the images because it omits discussion of key parts of the program: 1) the significant controversy over the exposed headlights. Berg mentions the lights in passing, but doesn&amp;#8217;t adequately cover the divisiveness at GM Design Staff, in Chevrolet Marketing and on the Corvette Team that eventually had to be resolved at the highest levels of the program with a decision by GM Vehicle Line Executive, David Hill, 2) the influence the F/A-22 jet fighter had on Chief Designer, Tom Peters, which, according to media reports and interviews with Peters, was quite significant and 3) the strong influence the 1963-1967 &amp;#8220;C2&amp;#8221; Corvette&amp;#8217;s exterior had on Peters and his team. None of these issues were covered and the book, as a chronicle of the C6 program, suffers a little because of it.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Another interesting part of this book is an account of how the C6 was exhaustively tested once the &amp;#8220;Alpha&amp;#8221; and &amp;#8220;Beta&amp;#8221; prototype cars were available. Berg&amp;#8217;s discussion of: developing the car&amp;#8217;s performance on Germany&amp;#8217;s Autobahns and its famed Nurburgring test track, running Alphas and Betas at GM&amp;#8217;s Milford and Desert Proving Grounds and cold weather testing in the U.P. of Michigan are revealing insights to how Corvettes must measure-up to stringent requirements not made of other sports cars. The chapter on testing includes photos of a number of Beta cars that give the reader a rare, visual insight to the vehicle development process.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A big story with C6 is its powertrain, especially the new, six-liter, 400-horsepower engine and, expectedly, there&amp;#8217;s a chapter on the engine and the car&amp;#8217;s transmissions. If you&amp;#8217;re a nuts-and-bolts techie, you&amp;#8217;ll find that part of the book pleasing.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The new Vette&amp;#8217;s revised suspension and brakes are covered. The book talks of new safety and convenience features. It covers the upgraded interior. The author gives the reader insight to GM&amp;#8217;s &amp;#8220;sweating the details&amp;#8221; with accounts of Team Corvette&amp;#8217;s testing 20 different shift knobs before finding one that was just right and working to get cup holders to support a large drink container, even when the car was generating 1g lateral acceleration. What&amp;#8217;s missing in the interior discussion is probably its most important aspect, next to its new appearance and that&amp;#8217;s how quiet it is. The most significant, customer-driven part of the C6 development was a very noticeable decrease in road noise. While Berg acknowledges that was a goal of the program, he says little about the results or how they were achieved.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;u&gt;Corvette C6&lt;/u&gt; has two other weaknesses. First, its proof-reading was average, at best. For example: in several places, people&amp;#8217;s names, titles or responsibilities are misstated. Bob Lutz is identified as a GM &amp;#8220;Vice President&amp;#8221;. Actually, Lutz is Vice Chairman of the Board, a considerably higher rank. Chief Designer, Tom Peters, was said to have been responsible for C6&amp;#8217;s exterior and its structure. Actually, Peters oversaw the team that designed the exterior but had had nothing at all to do with the car&amp;#8217;s structure. The book says Dave Wickman is the car&amp;#8217;s &amp;#8220;Ride and Handling Coordinator&amp;#8221;. Actually, Wickman is the Corvette Vehicle Performance Manager, a more difficult and wide-ranging job. If that isn&amp;#8217;t enough, elsewhere, the book misidentifies him as &amp;#8220;Mike Wickman.&amp;#8221; &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Secondly, there are a number of technical errors, most of which are in the powertrain chapter. While these technical deficiencies may not be considered critical by some because this is a &amp;#8220;coffee table&amp;#8221; book more to look at than to read; that the book was approved by GM, has a Forward by the car&amp;#8217;s Chief Engineer and costs thirty dollars means it must meet a high standard of technical accuracy. Unfortunately, it falls a bit short of that mark. Hopefully MBI will correct these problems, if Corvette C6 goes to a second printing.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bottom line: while Corvette C6 has a few holes in the exterior design and interior coverage, suffers a bit with proofreading and technical mistakes; it&amp;#8217;s generally an interesting read and, visually, quite attractive. Those with large Corvette book collections probably should put it on their shopping list. For owners of the new C6 Vette, it&amp;#8217;s a must-have. Thu, 17 May 2007 18:16:32 +0000 How to Build High-Performance Chevy Ls1/Ls6 Engines <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="139051.jpg" src="" alt="139051.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: In the genre of automotive enthusiast technical books, &lt;u&gt;Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s&lt;/u&gt; is destined to be a classic. The book&amp;#8217;s subtitle, &amp;#8220;Modifying and Tuning Gen III Engines for GM Cars and Pickups&amp;#8221; says it all. That is exactly what this book covers in outstanding detail and with a high level of accuracy. This is not the first book written about hot rodding the General Motors Generation III Small-Block V8s, but it is, clearly, the best one so far.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;One reason for this is the Author, Will Handzel, is a former automotive magazine technical writer and currently the Manager for General Motors&amp;#8217; Performance Parts Program. Not only is he very experienced at writing the type of material in this book, as a GM employee, Mr. Handzel had unprecedented access to the people and information necessary for him to cover the subject with the depth you&amp;#8217;ll find in &lt;u&gt;Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s.&lt;/u&gt; Finally, Handzel&amp;#8217;s accessible, easy-going style makes the book as enjoyable as it is interesting and informative.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Another reason this book is a bang-up success is publisher, CarTech&amp;#8217;s decision to use more pictures than it has in the past with books like this and to upgrade its printing processes such that those pictures are printed with higher resolution. As a result, this title as good to look at as it is to read.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A technique Handzel used to illustrate the points he makes elsewhere in the book about various Gen III performance modifications, is a series of four, &amp;#8220;demo&amp;#8221; engine build-ups. The first one, &amp;#8220;100 Horsepower Anybody Can Install&amp;#8221;, by itself, is worth the price of the book. The other three are: a 500+ horsepower street engine, a 600-hp supercharged truck engine and an exotic, 1200-hp twin-turbo. Each build-up is a successive step in performance, complexity and cost and is explained with good detail.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A really useful part of this book is the chapter devoted to tips and tricks experienced techs use to get Gen III engines in and out of Corvettes, Camaros and light trucks. This isn&amp;#8217;t just a condensed version of factory service manual procedures, rather it is a collection of techniques professionals use to reduce the time and frustration of getting engines in and out of those vehicles.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In 1976, Bill Fisher wrote &lt;u&gt;How to Hot Rod Small Block Chevys&lt;/u&gt;. By standards of the automotive book trade, it was a runaway best seller. A generation of Chevrolet enthusiasts became DIY engine builders because of that book. Today, nearly 30 years later, Fisher&amp;Otilde;s book is still in print and continues provides Chevy DIYs with useful, practical knowledge on the Gen I SBV8s. Will Handzel&amp;#8217;s &lt;u&gt;Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s&lt;/u&gt; will do the same thing for the new crop of Generation III Small-Block DIY engine builders and will do it with a similar level of success.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you are intent on modifying an LS1, LS6 or any of the Gen IIIs used in full-sized GM trucks and SUVs or mid-sized SUVs, add this book to your reference shelf. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For more information, contact CarTech, Inc., 39966 Grand Av.,&lt;br /&gt;North Branch, MN 55056 USA. 1-800-551-4754 toll free within the US &lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_Blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt; Thu, 17 May 2007 18:04:04 +0000 C5 Corvette <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="135756.jpg" src="" alt="135756.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: At this writing, in late 2004, there are a number of books about the 1997-2004 &quot;C5&quot; Corvettes out there. One of the best and also my favorite is &lt;u&gt;All Corvettes are Red&lt;/u&gt; by the late, Jim Schefter. It's a great history of the design and development of the C5, however, &quot;ACR&quot; is a traditional, hardcover title with only a few photos. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Patrick Paternie's &lt;u&gt;C5 Corvette&lt;/u&gt; is a nice companion for Schefter's book in that it's a sort of executive summary of what's in ACR but with a little more technical depth, especially on the C5's engines and, most importantly, it has a lot of photos, mainly from GM's Media Archive and noted automotive photographer, David Newhardt. On my Corvette bookshelf, these two are kept next to each other.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;One thing &lt;u&gt;C5 Corvette&lt;/u&gt; has that &lt;u&gt;All Corvettes are Red&lt;/u&gt; does not is a chapter on the C5-R race program. Additionally, where Schefter's book ends with the 1997 model year, Paternie's book covers all the way until the platform ended production at the end of the 2004 model year. These qualities of the book were more reasons why I've added &lt;u&gt;C5 Corvette&lt;/u&gt; to my collection.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The book's only weakness is the author's misunderstanding of some aspects of the C5's suspension. The technical discussion of that contains several errors, particularly in areas where the Author tries to cover a key, C5 chassis design feature: the decoupling of ride-and-handling through specific suspension bushing placement and design.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As a whole, &lt;u&gt;C5 Corvette&lt;/u&gt; reads easy, is an interesting story of the '97-'04-car's design, development and production, is delightful to look at and is a worthwhile addition to any late model Corvette enthusiast's reference collection.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For more information, contact Motorbooks International, Suite 200 380 Jackson St., St. Paul MN 55101. Ph. 800-826-6600, web: &lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt; Thu, 17 May 2007 17:59:18 +0000 Corvette Performance Projects 1968-1982 <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="137230.jpg" src="" alt="137230.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: Some automotive technical books are devoted to complex, expensive procedures modifications that sometimes require intermediate or advanced mechanical skills. It's refreshing to run across a book on basics and [u]Corvette Performance Products 1968-1982[/u] is exactly that.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This book covers a variety of service and maintenance tasks a DIY would perform on a 68-82 Corvette (aka &quot;C3&quot; or &quot;Shark&quot;) from the very basic, such as how to jack and support your car and changing your oil and filter to more intermediate tasks such as simple body repairs, brake service and electrical troubleshooting.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Each project, and there are 31 of them, is covered by a separate chapter which explains the task in detail and illustrates it with color photos. This &quot;modular&quot; approach means you can either read the book cover-to-cover or use it in the shop as a supplemental service manual, looking-up information on a specific task and just reading that part.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Author, Tom Benford's easy-to-read style and his extensive, hands-on experience working on his own C3 project car make this book an excellent resource for the DIY service technician who is just starting out working on his or her own Corvette.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;About the only weakness of this book is the use of the word &quot;Performance&quot; in its title. In 31 DIY projects suggested in this book only two have anything to do with increasing a Corvette's performance. What the publisher needs to do is simply take the word &quot;Performance&quot; out of the title, but leave the rest of this useful book alone.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you're an automotive DIY and you're just getting into the Corvette hobby with a C3, next to a factory service manual, [u]Corvette Performance Products 1968-1982[/u] should be the most important reference in your garage. It's emphasis on basics is well worth the cover price.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For more information, contact Motorbooks International, Galtier Plaza, Suite 200, 380 Jackson St.,&lt;br /&gt;St. Paul, MN 55101-3885 USA, Ph: 800 826 6600, web: &lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt; Thu, 17 May 2007 17:48:45 +0000 Super Silicone and Aero Vogue Wipers <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="wiper_shadow.jpg" src="" alt="wiper_shadow.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: It's Fall 2007 and this time of year, everybody ought to be thinking about wiper blades.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For over a year, I've been testing PIAA &quot;Super Silicone wipers from Weathertech Automotive Accessories on some of my cars, including my 2004 Z06, and man...are they great!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The reason PIAA silicone wiper blades work so well is the combination of the silicone rubber compound used in the blades and PIAA's Windshield Treatment Solution which you apply to the glass prior to installing them. The Treatment Solution seems similar in application procedure and results to &quot;Rain-X&quot; but more long-lasting. Since the Super Silicone wiper material tends not to wear down the Treatment as fast as would conventional blades, the aggressive beading effect imparted by the PIAA Treatment Solution lasts a long time.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We've tested Super Silicone Wiper Blades on a C5, a late-model Camaro and an S-10 Blazer with good results in all three cases. They offer better resistance to heat, ozone, ultra-violet and wear, out-performing the industry standard in all those categories. These wipers seem less prone to squeaking and dragging, regardless of the shape of the windshield. Weathertech says its Silicone Wiper Blades maintain sharp, clean edges, even after 230,000 operations and just to put that in perspective, if your wipers cycle once every 2 seconds, that's a bit over 125 hours of continuous operation.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Replacing your stock wiper blades with PIAAs from Weathertech is quick and easy. Remove your old wipers, attach one of the adapters Weathertech supplies to your wiper arms then install the Super Silicone wipers. PIAA wipers from Weathertech offer a two-fold improvement in wet weather vision and safety. Water beads up into droplets at low speeds that are easily removed by ordinary wiping. At higher speeds, wind velocity pushes the water off the windshield, often without even requiring wiper use. The silicone coating also reduces drag and eliminates annoying and inefficient chattering to provide greater comfort for both driver and passenger. And the best part is that Silicone Wiper Blades reapply the silicone coating every time the wipers are used. That they leave behind a slight silicone residue seems to work very well as all the sets of Super Silicone wipers we're testing have been in service for more than a year and still wipe the winshield streak-free.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Weathertech's PIAA Super Silicone wiper blades are available at &lt;a href=&quot;; target=&quot;_blank&quot;&gt;;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/hib/wiper1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;259&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/hib/wiper2.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;286&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/hib/wiper3.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;261&quot; border=&quot;1&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt; Thu, 17 May 2007 17:36:48 +0000 Corvette Fuel Injection &amp; Electronic Engine Control: 1982 through 2001 <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="fi.jpg" src="" alt="fi.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: The Corvette has had electronic fuel injection since 1982. For most of that time, about the only places to get good information about how those systems worked was either GM service manuals and training publications or a few aftermarket service manuals. What the world has needed is a good textbook on Corvette EFI systems directed at those not well-versed on EFI and focused on theory and general description rather than on diagnosis and repair.&lt;br /&gt;At first glance, this book appears to fit that bill. It's written and laid-out more like a textbook than a service manual. Its 400-page package size leaves room for plenty of detail. It has nine chapters, each covering one aspect of Corvette electronic fuel injection theory and function with only two chapters on diagnosis and service and one (a very large one) of schematics. The book's outline is pretty good. Charles Probst, who&amp;#8217;s authored other books on electronic fuel injection seemed like a perfect match for Bentley Publishers, a long-time publisher of automotive technical books.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately, once you find out how much inaccuracy and sloppy proofreading are in this book, there's just no way around the fact that How to Understand and Modify Corvette Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Management 1982 Through 2001 has more problems than just a long title. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The errors begin as soon as you open the book, on the inside back cover, in a an '82-'01 Corvette powertrain listing) where the L98 engine is misidentified as an &quot;L89&quot; and the 2001, LS1's power output is listed as 345hp&amp;#8211;it's actually 350hp.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;You might be wondering: if all that's wrong with this book is a few typographical errors in engine RPOs and power ratings, how can a reviewer have such a negative opinion? After all, it was the late Chuck Probst's final project in life. He died at age 82, a week after finishing the project for Bentley.&lt;br /&gt; &lt;br /&gt;Well, with all due respect to Probst&amp;#8217;s legacy, it's not just a &quot;few errors&quot;; it's a lot of errors&amp;#8211;throughout the entire book. Further, any excuse for such errors misses the point. This book is supposed to be a textbook-quality reference on electronic fuel injection and, thus, must be accurate. Probst was a automotive technical author and training film producer. He probably began this project as nothing less than the definitive text on EFI as used on Corvettes. I'm sure he believed that accuracy was of prime importance. Perhaps in his final months, Chuck Probst might have been ailing but that was no excuse for substandard fact-checking and proof-reading by Bentley Publishers, especially not to the extent I found in this book.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This title&amp;#8217;s problems extend farther than typos. For example: there are several discussions of differences between the current, SAE-standard, engine controls nomenclature and manufacturer-specific terms used prior to 1993. In several places, &quot;short-term fuel trim&quot; is listed as the modern term for for &quot;block learn&quot; and &quot;long-term fuel trim&quot; is listed as the modern name for &quot;integrator&quot;. Fact is, it's the other way around, ie: STFT=integrator and LTFT=block learn. In other places, the two sets of terms are translated correctly. If one purpose of this book is to explain Vette EFI basics to laypersons; the book confuses its intended audience because few of these readers will know which translation is right and which is wrong.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Throughout the book, engines are identified with their RPOs, such as: L83, L98, LT1, LT4, LS1 and LS6. The LT5 engine is, in most instances, misidentified as &quot;ZR-1&quot;. RPO LT5 identified the engine in a specific Corvette model known as the ZR-1. This error ironic is because at the beginning of the book there&amp;#8217;s a picture of Probst in the driver seat of a ZR-1. We can assume he was at least a ZR-1 enthusiast or, perhaps, a ZR-1 owner and should have known the difference.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The book's mistakes and inaccuracies are not only text. They extend to illustrations, too. A drawing, which according to its caption portrays the computer-aided gear selection (&amp;#8220;CAGS&amp;#8221; or &quot;skip shift&quot;) wiring and components on the ZF S6-40 six-speed manual transmission in a '89-'96 Corvette, actually shows the Tremec T56 six-speed used in 1993-2002 Chevy Camaros. Another drawing&amp;#8217;s caption says the reader is viewing 1997-1999 Corvette LS1 and '01- oxygen sensor and catalytic converter placement but shows that hardware for a 1998-2002 Chevy Camaro LS1 which has an entirely different O2S and cat layout.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;There are scads of other screw-ups to, too. Detonation is misidentified as pre-ignition in a mistake which laypersons often make but in a book like this is inexcusable. The first emissions controls are listed as being introduced in 1968 but, in reality, the year was 1966 for California cars and 1967 for all cars sold in the U.S. The book consistently lists six-speed introduction in Corvette as 1990 but it was, actually, 1989. The LT5 is said to have two different lengths of intake port runners. It does not. The book claims most Corvettes use engine-driven AIR pumps. Most Corvettes have electric AIR pumps. The book says &quot;underhood&quot; catalytic converters (also known as &quot;auxiliary&quot; or &quot;pup&quot; cats) only operate during the first four minutes after start-up. Pup cats operate at all times. There's a chart of model year, number and location of Corvette catalytic converters that has incorrect information for several years. The list of problems goes on and on.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Perhaps the most grievous error in the book is the chapter on EFI modification which, in addition to having errors, lacking detail and being too short, relies too much on aftermarket manufacturer claims of performance gains rather than facts gained through impartial testing. What Bentley Publishers should have done is left out the 112-page, Chapter 12 on Corvette electrical schematics (because they are of little value without the accompanying diagnostic service information one finds in a factory service manual) and used that space for some credible content on Corvette EFI modification.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Now, this book is not all bad. There is some error-free, good information, particularly in the explanations of general EFI theory and in a section at the back of the book on basic diagnostics. Unfortunately, interspaced in the theory and explanations are so many typographical errors, mistakes and inaccuracies that, for laypeople, this book would be an unreliable source of information.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I think you get the picture. Understanding and Modifying Corvette Fuel Injection is a stinker. If you're looking for a text that offers accurate and detailed information about Corvette EFI, don't look here. Until Bentley Publishers decides to revise this book, stick to the factory service manual or other sources. Thu, 17 May 2007 15:54:56 +0000 Hoses and Fittings <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="aeroquip.jpg" src="" alt="aeroquip.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: The ZR-1 was one of the rare GM cars which comes with a factory-installed engine oil cooler as standard equipment. It is an air-to-oil unit mounted between the radiator and the air conditioning condenser. It connects to the engine with a set of rubber oil hoses which are constructed like power steering hose, ie: aluminum fittings crimped onto rubber hose.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The original LT5 oil hose design was part of Lotus' work on the engine and the hose size was specific to the application. GM found out fairly early in the ZR-1's six-years of production that these lines were prone to leakage, usually where the fittings are crimped to the hose--a common problem with such low-cost construction.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In fact, GM's warranty cost for this durability problem was high enough that GM Service Parts Operations, released a revised LT5 oil hose assembly about 1992. Typical for SPO, they did this as cheap as possible using an off-shelf hose type, which was smaller in diameter but less prone to leakage. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Back in the late-'90s, during the early stages of the &quot;Purple Project&quot; series of articles for Vette Magazine, I found the oil hoses on my ZR-1 were leaking. I ordered replacement GM hoses. When I compared the diameter of the new hoses to my originals, I laughed out loud and said, &quot;hell with these POSes.&quot; The diameter reduction was so significant that, the oil lines might became a restriction in the oiling system. That's not a big problem with the engine is running at low loads, the oil temperature is low and the oil thermostat is not passing much oil to the cooler but, run the engine hard such that the oil temp gets up towards 230-250 degrees and the thermostat is wide-open, then you've got restriction. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The solution? Junk those stock oil hoses and replace them with Aeroquip. Eaton's Aeroquip division is one of the few major suppliers of braided stainless steel covered hoses and AN fittings which designs, develops and tests all its products in it's own, ISO 9001- and QS 9000-certified certified, U.S. plants.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As it turns out, putting Aeroquip oil hoses on an LT5 is, on one hand, relatively easy because the oil fittings on the engine are the same SAE 37&amp;iexcl; compression type used by Aeroquip hoses but is also a bit difficult because, on the cooler end, you need to modify the connection by heliarc welding male AN fittings to the existing hard oil lines.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I selected AN-12 as the hose size I wanted because it has just a bit larger I.D. than the original, Lotus-designed hoses. I cut the rubber hoses off my leaking hose assembly. Then, I cut the pipe ends off two Aeroquip AN-12-to-pipe thread adapters. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The modified fittings MUST be heliarc welded to the aluminum oil pipes. Unless you have advanced welding skills and access to TIG welding equipment, I suggest you do like I did and farm the job out to a welding or fabrication shop experienced with welding small aluminum parts. I chose Hansen Race cars, a drag racing chassis builder in Montclair, California. A high-end, full-service racing chassis shop, such as Hansen's, will have the aluminum welding skills required for this job. Other places to look for small-parts, heliarc welding skills are specialty welders doing aircraft work (look for them near airports) or radiator shops having skills in aluminum radiator repair.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Gary Hansen handled my welding job himself and made short work of the task, mainly because I came in with the fittings already machined and the aluminum tubes - surfaces already sanded. Hansen is a veteran heliarc operator and knows how to make pinhole free welds look easy. After the fittings are welded on the lines, they need to be pressure checked. This is easy if you have a AN-10 female cap, an air compressor capible of 90-100 psi and a bottle of 409. Cap-off one end of the line, stick an air pressure gun in the other then have an assistant spray the weld with 409. If the weld is leaking, the 409 will bubble. None of Hansen's welds leaked. Back at my shop, after the visit to Hansen Race Cars (4054 Mission Bl., Montclair, CA 91763, ph: 909 626 6967), I bolted the modified aluminum tubes to the oil cooler. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Then I built two, short AN-12 hoses using Aeroquip AN-12 AQP Racing Hose and four, 45&amp;iexcl; AQP Reusable fittings. After that, it was a simple process to install my new Aeroquip oil hoses between the engine and the cooler.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I built these lines in 1998 and, since then, those Aeroquip hoses have run nearly, 50,000 leak-free miles. Plus...they look damn cool when you open the hood.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For more information on Aeroquip Products see: Thu, 17 May 2007 15:40:55 +0000 50-Series Mufflers <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="50_series.jpg" src="" alt="50_series.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: Almost two decades ago, responding to racetrack noise abatement rules, an engineer named Ray T. Flugger invented a muffler that not only quieted a race car&amp;#8217;s exhaust but did so with no decrease in power and, in some cases, a power increase.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Flugger showed up at the SEMA Show one year with a big, boxy &quot;Flowmaster&quot; racing muffler. As a joke, he&amp;#8217;d welded on a handle on it. Flugger&amp;#8217;s product was instantly nicknamed the &quot;suitcase muffler&quot;. Ray Flugger soon took the core technology in his Flowmaster race mufflers and applied it to a product for street use. The rest,as they say, &amp;#8220;is history&amp;#8221;.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Today, Flowmaster, Inc. is one of the giants of the aftermarket exhaust business. It&amp;#8217;s core product, the Flowmaster Muffler, is considered a benchmark by which racing and street, high-performance exhaust products are judged.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;These mufflers are designed to use the acoustic energy of exhaust pulses to create low pressure ahead of the muffler. Depending on exhaust valve timing, engine rpm, exhaust system length and volume, this may scavenge the combustion chamber of exhaust gases and that can increase performance. Even if there is no significant scavenging effect, the Flowmaster has reduced restriction compared to OE mufflers and even some aftermarket &quot;performance&quot; mufflers. Less restriction also increases performance. That great &quot;Flowmaster Sound&quot; (best described as &quot;rich&quot; or &quot;throaty&quot;) comes from patented &quot;noise cancellation&quot; technology. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I&amp;#8217;ve used Flowmaster Mufflers in street applications ever since the first ones were sold in the early-&amp;#8217;80s.Flowmasters are American-made, have great sound, have always performed well and have been quite durable. Currently, I have a &amp;#8217;71 Corvette with a 530hp Big-Block Chevy and a &amp;#8217;95 ZR-1 with a 500hp Automasters-built LT5 and both cars are fitted with Flowmaster 50-Series, 3-inch mufflers (PN53056). Both cars have had these mufflers for a number of years. Not only do I have them on my Vettes, but I run them on every car I own but one and, as soon as I get the time; I&amp;#8217;ll stick Flowmasters on my 2001 Camaro, too.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Flowmasters are made of MIG-welded, 16-gauge, aluminized steel which offers improved service life compared to most OE-mufflers. In normal use, I have found Flowmaster&amp;#8217;s aluminized construction to have comparable durability to stainless steel, no doubt, because of the aluminized heavy-gauge metal.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Though case and inlet/outlets are aluminized, the welds are not. To prevent surface rust from developing on the welds, Flowmaster shoots each muffler with silver paint. Therein lies the product&amp;#8217;s only small drawback. In some cases, normal exhaust heat will cause the paint to quickly turn brown and flake-off. If appearance is an issue, my solution has been, before installation, to lightly abrade new Flowmasters with Standard Abrasives Handipads then repaint them with Eastwood Exhaust Paint.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The above-listed 50-series muffler represents a good choice for street-driven, modified Corvettes with big engines. You want great performance with a subdued, mellow version of the Flowmaster sound? The 50-series units, available in eight different inlet/outlet configurations with pipe sizes from 2.25-3.0 inches, are your best choice. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;There are smaller Flowmasters--which fit the stock Corvette muffler locations easier--and louder Flowmasters--the famous 40-series--which will let everyone know you&amp;#8217;re coming. The company makes a line of bolt-on &quot;cat-back&quot; exhaust systems for C4 and C5, too. Last, but certainly not least, is Flowmaster&amp;#8217;s extensive line of racing mufflers. For more information, contact Flowmaster, Inc., Suite 125, 100 Stony Point Rd., Santa Rosa, CA 95401. Tel: 800 544 4761. web: Thu, 17 May 2007 15:18:24 +0000 Hub Cleaning Kit (PN J-42450-A) <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="hub1.jpg" src="" alt="hub1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: You look at the pictures here and you might wonder, &amp;#8220;So, do I really need that little do-dad?&amp;#8221; Well, if you have a Corvette with disc brakes, especially an older one, you just might.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;All disc brake equipped Corvettes have separate brake discs or rotors which fit to front hub or rear axle flanges, it&amp;#8217;s possible that, over the years, rust has developed between the brake disc and the flange.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When corrosion begins, not only does it become difficult to separate the disc from the flange but the rust that develops alters the thickness of the flange. That tends to force the brake rotor and flange apart. As the corrosion will vary in thickness, the surface of the flange becomes uneven and the plane of the hub/axle flange and the plane of the brake rotor friction surface become slightly non-parallel. Additionally, the uneven force the growing corrosion exerts on the brake disc in opposition to the force of the wheel studs exert on the disc, tends to warp the brake rotor slightly. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the early days of disc brakes this problem was unknown, misunderstood or, perhaps, overlooked by engineers at automobile manufactures which develop the brake systems and their suppliers which make brake parts.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the last ten years or so, there has been a push by GM, both at the engineering and field service levels, for improved quality in brake systems. A chronic complaint about disc brakes is pedal pulsation or vibration on brake application. Occasionally, these problems are caused by nonparallel and/or warped brake discs due to rust between the flange and disc. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;An easy way to eliminate the rust is with the Kent-Moore Hub Cleaning Kit (PN J-42450-A). Several years ago, service tool manufacturer, Kent-Moore, which has provided GM service tools since the 1920s, developed this kit as a solution to field service problems with rust and scale on hub and axle flanges. In the past, to remove this stuff, wire brushing or abrading the flange and the disc rotor with sandpaper were accepted methods. Both are time consuming and can have trouble getting the surfaces close to the wheel studs clean. I own five cars (two of them Vettes) with four-wheel disc brakes so I am very familiar with this task.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/hub1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;335&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The Kit&amp;#8217;s Abrasive Pad Holder is designed to be chucked into a die grinder but an ordinary electric drill, which I often use with this tool, also works well. The Holder has a Velcro surface that holds a specially-designed abrasive pad. All you do is press evenly with the drill motor, then run it at its highest speed. Within seconds, rust and scale are abraded away. When you get to areas around wheel studs, the Holder&amp;#8217;s lower shank is hollow and fits over the wheel stud. Simply guide the holder over the stud and run the drill again. Viola! The area of the flange, right around the stud is clean of any rust.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Kent-Moore&amp;#8217;s Hub Cleaning Kit is an outstanding solution to a common problem I see with disc brakes on older Corvettes. The kit fits any die grinder or drill with a 1/4-inch chuck and kit includes ten abrasive pads. Replacement pads can be ordered from Kent-Moore.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/hub2.jpg&quot; width=&quot;441&quot; height=&quot;355&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For more information on the Kent-Moore Hub Cleaning Kit, contact: SPX Kent-Moore, 28635 Mound Road, Warren, Michigan 48092-3499. Tel: 800 345 2233. web: Thu, 17 May 2007 15:01:00 +0000 Igntion Replacement Cap <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="msd1.jpg" src="" alt="msd1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: Delco-Remy &quot;Window&quot; distributors for Corvette and other Chevrolet engines were produced from 1960 to 1974. Because tens of millions of them were made and several aftermarket distributors use some of Delco&amp;#8217;s architecture; there remains a large, installed base of distributors using the same, 40-year-old cap and rotor design. As a result, some ignition parts suppliers continue to sell premium replacement parts and a few have even developed new and better parts.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/msd1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;374&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;The MSD alkyd cap for '60-'74 Delco 'Window-type' distributors.&lt;br /&gt;This cap also fits aftermarket distributors that use a Delco cap.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;With its MSD Ignition brand, Autotronic Controls Corp. markets high-performance caps and rotors for Delco&amp;#8217;s Window distributors. In addition, if you want to change the cap ends of your plug wires from socket to HEI-type, MSD has a new, even better, cap design for pointless distributors originally equipped with a Window cap.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The MSD replacement cap (PN 8467) is made of brown alkyd plastic and duplicates the O.E. cap in fit and function. Unlike caps which use aluminum to cut costs, the MSD unit has brass socket connections and internal contacts for lower resistance and better durability. If your Delco distributor has points, this is the best replacement cap on the market.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/msd2.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;479&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;The MSD alkyd cap should be used on Delco distributors &lt;br /&gt;with points and can be used on electronic ignition distributors.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The MSD &amp;#8220;Racing Rotor&amp;#8221; (PN 8433) fits all GM and aftermarket distributors using a Window cap. It is made of Dupont Rynite. A few years ago, MSD pioneered the use of Rynite in ignition parts because it has a higher dielectric property, making it a better insulator, and it is more resistant to breakage. Not only is MDS&amp;#8217;s rotor made of Rynite, but It has additional ribs on its top which further prevent arcing.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For about 15 years, I&amp;#8217;ve used the MSD replacement cap on the Delco distributor in the Rochester fuel-injected, 400 cuin. Small-Block in one of my cars. Besides the FI, the engine has Crane hydraulic roller lifter cam and roller rockers, ported L82 cast-iron heads, MSD ignition amplifier and Hooker headers. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When MSD switched to Rynite several years ago, I began using the upgraded rotor on this engine. As the 400 uses a MSD 6T capacitive discharge system and Blaster coil, Rynite&amp;#8217;s better insulation prevents arcs that could be caused by the system&amp;#8217;s higher energy.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/msd3.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;306&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;The MSD &quot;Racing Rotor&quot; for Window distributors and &lt;br /&gt;aftermarket distributors that use a Delco rotor. &lt;br /&gt;Rynite gives the cap its distinctive color along with better dielectric property.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/msd4.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;247&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;The Racing Rotor fits distributors with points, &lt;br /&gt;factory magnetic triggers (such as that in this FI distributor), along with Window distributors &lt;br /&gt;that have been fitted with aftermarket electronic ignition triggers.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/msd5.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;409&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;The MSD HEI Tower Window Cap fits Delco distributors that have magnetic &lt;br /&gt;triggers or other electronic triggering system. This cap cannot be used &lt;br /&gt;on point-type distributors because it lacks the point adjustment window. &lt;br /&gt;HEI-type wire ends must be used and the cap kit comes with the wire &lt;br /&gt;retainer shown here.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;About a month before I did this review for the Corvette Action Center, it was again time to replace the rotor and cap. I installed a new, MSD rotor but, this time, upgraded to MSD&amp;#8217;s &amp;#8220;HEI Tower Window Cap&amp;#8221; (PN 8437). This cap is for pointless distributors only as it lacks the window through which you adjust point gap. Use of this cap, also, requires changing the plug wire ends at the cap (MSD has a kit for this, PN8849) but that was worth the extra effort because of the Rynite cap&amp;#8217;s increased dielectric qualities, improved durability and...its cool-looking, bright red color.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Want to know more about MSD replacement ignition parts? Contact the Autotronic Controls Corp., 1490 Henry Brennan Dr., El Paso TX 79936&lt;br /&gt;Tel: 915 857 5200. Web: Thu, 17 May 2007 14:52:05 +0000 DM-45 Digital Multimeter <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="DM-45.gif" src="" alt="DM-45.gif" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: I became an automotive DIY in the &amp;#8220;points-and-condenser&amp;#8221; era, before engine computers&amp;#8211;even before widespread use of electronic ignition. Even though there wasn&amp;#8217;t near as much electronics in cars back then, for as long as I&amp;#8217;ve worked on cars, electrical test equipment has always had a prominent place on my work bench.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Right about the time I started building my first hot rod, a &amp;#8217;63 Convertible, I bought my first dwell meter and tachometer, or &amp;#8220;dwell-tach&amp;#8221;. It wasn&amp;#8217;t long until I had to have one of those &amp;#8220;auto analyzers&amp;#8221; (the sign of a serious DIY, right?) which combined a dwell-tach with a volt meter, an ammeter, an ohmmeter and a diode tester. Most of these analyzers were huge by today&amp;#8217;s standards, maybe 16x5x5-in., and ran on a couple of D-cell batteries. They usually had one big, multi-scale meter with a bunch of knobs to select function, range and to zero the meter.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;After a bunch of dwell/tachs, several analyzers and even a classic Simpson 260 (a commercial-grade VOM, which I still own), in the early-&amp;#8217;90s; I &amp;#8220;went digital&amp;#8221;. For a number of years I&amp;#8217;ve owned a MacTools ET-332 Automotive Multimeter. This unit, at 7.5x3.5x1.5-in., is about a third the size of those old auto analyzers and weighs considerably less. Plus, it has a digital display, more functions and is far more accurate than anything I&amp;#8217;d used before, including my trusty Simpson. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;At last November&amp;#8217;s AAPEX trade show, I ran across Auto Meter&amp;#8217;s DM-45 Digital Multimeter, a comprehensive piece of electrical test equipment you can, literally, stick in your pocket.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Corvetters are familiar with Auto Meter&amp;#8217;s gauges but few know that, for over 40 years, Auto Meter&amp;#8217;s test equipment division has made electrical system testers for the service trade. In 1997, seeing the need for a pocket-sized, automotive, digital multimeter, Auto Meter developed the DM-40. In December, 2001, Auto Meter added the DM-45. The key features of both are convenient size and an integral, AC/DC inductive Current Probe&amp;#8211;that&amp;#8217;s the loop-shaped extension on one end.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The DM-45 measures AC and DC voltage and current, resistance, engine RPM, temperature and capacitance. The less-expensive DM-40 measures AC/DC voltage and current, resistance and frequency. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I&amp;#8217;ve been using the Auto Meter DM-45 for a month or so and I like this tool for its small size (7.2x2.5x1.4-inches) and light weight (6.7-oz.). I can measure some electrical parameter, then shove the unit in the front pocket of my jeans and drape the leads around my neck having it ready for the next test&amp;#8211;very convenient. I also like the DM-45 for long road trips. I usually carry a small tool kit on the road and the DM-45 takes up a tiny space making it a wise addition. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/dm45a.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;509&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Both the DM series digital multimeters have an inductive&lt;br /&gt;loop for easy measurement of current. The unit's range is 0-400 amps for &lt;br /&gt;both DC and AC current. All you do is spread the loop's jaws, encircle &lt;br /&gt;the wire whose current flow is to be measured, close the jaws. Set the &lt;br /&gt;DM 40 or 45 to read amps and observe the display.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;To date I&amp;#8217;ve used every DM-45 function except capacitance. It&amp;#8217;s proven very accurate. The display is easy to read. Its functions are simple to select via a rotary switch. With the exception of current, the unit is auto-ranging and the auto-ranging can be disabled if you so desire.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The only difficulties were: 1) getting rpm readings from engines with &amp;#8220;waste-spark&amp;#8221; distributorless ignition systems, however, this problem is not specific to the DM-45 and one most tachometer devices with inductive connections have, including some very high-end and very expensive pieces of equipment&amp;#8211;the rpm sensors on DynoJet chassis dynamometers, for instance and 2) while the temperature function is certainly accurate, it takes a long time for readings to stabilize. This can be a bit &amp;#8220;uncomfortable&amp;#8221; if you&amp;#8217;re working in hot areas because you must hold the temperature leads such that their end touches the object whose temperature you are taking. For temperature readings, I&amp;#8217;ll continue to use a noncontacting infrared thermometer as it reads almost instantly and doesn&amp;#8217;t require you to come close to hot objects.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Those two minor drawbacks aside, I found the DM-45 to be an accurate and convenient piece of test equipment. Yes, it&amp;#8217;s a little costly for some DIYs, but for that money, you get the small package, powerful functions, the accuracy of digital multimeter and the durability of commercial-grade test equipment.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/dm45b.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;610&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;The DM-45s small size makes its use very convenient. &lt;br /&gt;Here, the output voltage of an alternator on an LT5 engine is being tested.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The DM-45 lists for $350.50 and the DM-40 for $288.50. For more information on the Auto Meter DM-45 and DM-40 Automotive Multimeters, contact Auto Meter Products, Inc., 413 W. Elm Street, Sycamore, IL 60178. Tel:815.899.0800. E-mail: Web: Thu, 17 May 2007 14:44:11 +0000 Ignition Tester <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="8998_big.jpg" src="" alt="8998_big.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: Many Corvette Action Center members are familiar with MSD ignition products but some may not know that the Autotronic Controls Corporation, manufacturer of the MSD brand, makes an Ignition Tester (p/n 8995) specific to their ignition amplifiers. I&amp;#8217;ve had one of these units on my diagnostic tools shelf for almost ten years and have used it a couple of times to help solve ignition problems and to periodically test the MSDs I have on my cars.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The impetus for Autotronic&amp;#8217;s development of this product came through their efforts in Winston Cup and drag racing. Those motorsports had a need for a simple, effective device that could test an ignition system as installed on the race car. Not only does this device positively test an MSD ignition amplifier and coil but it also allows the user to check ignition system connections and to determine if the distributor, plugs or plug wires are at fault. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The use of the MSD Ignition Tester is quite simple. Connect the red and black wires to a 12-volt source and ground respectively and then, depending on whether your distributor is a point-type or electronic trigger, use one of two trigger outputs. To simulate ignition system load, MSD includes a special &amp;#8220;test spark plug&amp;#8221; having a large air gap that is attached to the distributor end of the coil wire. Once the Tester is hooked up, turn the RPM knob on the side clockwise. Simulated engine speed, accurate to &amp;plusmn;0.4%, is read on the unit&amp;#8217;s display. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The two most likely problems you will confront are the high speed miss or no run conditions. First, inspect all ignition system connections making sure MSD pieces are installed and wired according to Autotronics&amp;#8217; instructions. Using a voltmeter, check the charging system voltage with the engine running. MSDs require at least 13-14 volts. Less than 13 volts with the engine running at operating temperature, accessories off and the battery at or near full charge indicates a charging system problem that needs to be addressed first. Once those two operations are out of the way, connect the MSD Tester and install the test plug. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Once the unit is connected, turn the knob and observe the rpm display. A buzzing sound will come from the test plug and if the system still has the miss, it will be obvious as the noise becomes erratic rather than a steady buzz. If the miss is gone; your problem is not the amplifier or the coil but may be spark plugs, spark plug wires or the distributor. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Plugs are easy. Pull a couple of them for inspection. A problem will be plainly evident in worn electrodes or excess deposits. If you need new ones, use a quality, high-performance plug such as the NGK or the Denso Iridium Power. With MSD ignitions on a street driven Corvette, you can run one heat range colder than stock. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Plug wires are also simple to check. If they&amp;#8217;ve been in service more than three years or 36,000 miles or are cracked or have lost pliability; they need to be replaced. Double check them with an ohm meter&amp;#8230;about 1000-5000 ohms per foot for resistance suppression wire, about 150-250 ohms per foot for inductive suppression wire, 50 ohms for MSD&amp;#8217;s Super Conductor wire and, of course, zero resistance for solid-core wires. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If the wires pass, move on to the distributor. Point-type units having breaker points in marginal condition should be equipped with a set of high performance points and a new condenser. Electronic trigger distributors can, also, be checked. In the case of a factory unit, Corvette Service Manuals have a section on troubleshooting the magnetic trigger unit. If your distributor is an MSD or other aftermarket product, check with the distributor&amp;#8217;s manufacturer for test instructions.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If the miss is still present. The next step is to change to an ignition coil that is known to be in good condition. If the miss goes away, you found your problem. Keep the good coil and trash the old one. If the problem still exists, the last thing to replace is the ignition amplifier. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The last handy use for the MSD Ignition Tester is setting or checking rev limiters. All you do is connect the Tester and advance the speed control. Once the display nears your rev limit, you should hear the test plug begin to misfire. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For more information on the MSD Ignition Tester call the Autotronic Controls Corporation, 1490 Henry Brennan Dr., El Paso, TX 79936. Tel: 915-857-5200. Web: Thu, 17 May 2007 14:33:19 +0000 Duo-Check Coolant and Battery Tester <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="aftester2.jpg" src="" alt="aftester2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;b&gt;by Hib Halverson&lt;br /&gt;&amp;copy;2003 by Shark Communications&lt;br /&gt;NO USE WITHOUT PERMISSION&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I figure there&amp;#8217;s not many Corvette DIYs who test coolant. Isn&amp;#8217;t it easier to pour in some new antifreeze when you change coolant every few years and hope for the best? Easier? Heck, yeah. Smarter? No way. You&amp;#8217;re better-off knowing how much freeze protection you have.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I have two Corvettes with different mixes of coolant in their cooling systems. One is protected down to 25&amp;deg; and other uses straight water. I&amp;#8217;ve also got an old Chevy Malibu and a newer Camaro, both of which are, also, protected to 25&amp;deg;F. I run less, or sometimes no antifreeze, along with Red Line Water Wetter which contains a corrosion inhibiter, because 1) I live where it doesn&amp;#8217;t get that cold and 2) coolant mixes with low or no antifreeze cool better. Ok. There&amp;#8217;s more to the reduced antifreeze story than that, but the details are best saved for a different Corvette Action Center article.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/aftester1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;209&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;This is a cheap hydrometer I purchased from an autoparts store. It cost &lt;br /&gt;all of a couple of bucks and I got what I paid for. It's readings are &lt;br /&gt;quite inaccurate. Not only that they are inconsistent, varying quite a &lt;br /&gt;bit from test-to-test. Save your couple of bucks for a cold beer. Then &lt;br /&gt;you can sit around the bar guessing at your antifreeze. The &quot;beer-driven &lt;br /&gt;guess&quot; method will be more accurate.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;These cars get coolant changes every 18-24 months. Plus, I sometimes change antifreeze concentrations during various test programs or for trips to places having different climates. Keeping track of different coolant mixes sometimes got confusing and I was tired of guessing. I needed some way to immediately, quickly and accurately test antifreeze. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I tried two different coolant hydrometers. I quickly discovered they: 1) differed quite a bit in readings and 2) didn&amp;#8217;t accurately test samples of coolant I knew contained specific percentages of antifreeze. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Later, I learned hydrometers are notoriously inaccurate for measuring the freezing point of aqueous engine coolants. The best units might have accuracy of +/- 8&amp;deg;F and their readings are temperature dependent. Sampling technique is critical to hydrometer use. Air bubbles cause inaccurate readings and float must be kept away from the wall of the hydrometer. No hydrometer can properly measure the propylene glycol antifreezes which some people use because, up to 70% concentration, propylene glycol&amp;#8217;s specific gravity increases, but above 70%, its specific gravity decreases. A 100% solution reads identical to a 40% solution, thus a hydrometer is unreliable. In short, hydrometers are a pain in the butt to use for coolant testing and they are inaccurate, to boot.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;One day I was leafing through a GM, Corvette Service Manual and ran across the Kent-Moore Duo-Chek Coolant and Battery Tester (PN J-23688). A service tool for GM dealers, this device is made for Kent-Moore by Leica Optical Products and is properly termed a &amp;#8220;refractometer&amp;#8221; because it relies on a coolant sample&amp;#8217;s refraction of light to accurately determine antifreeze concentration. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/aftester2.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;296&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;While it's a bit expensive, perhaps at $169, the Kent-Moore Coolant &lt;br /&gt;tester is one way to quickly and accurately determine how your cooling &lt;br /&gt;system is protected against freezing. I own five different cars. Their &lt;br /&gt;cooling system mixes differ a bit and I'm often changing stuff around for &lt;br /&gt;testing or experimentation. For me, the Kent-Moore tester simplified my &lt;br /&gt;cooling system work.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Kent-Moore&amp;#8217;s Coolant Tester is simple to use. Draw a sample from the cooling system, either from the radiator, the expansion tank or the high-fill bottle, using the tool&amp;#8217;s &amp;#8220;dropper bulb&amp;#8221;. Put a drop of it on the device&amp;#8217;s measuring prism, close the sample cover, look into the eyepiece and point the other end at any bright light. You&amp;#8217;ll see easty-to-understand display of your antifreeze percentage and the coolant&amp;#8217;s freeze temperature that is dead-nuts within 1&amp;deg;F. Finally, my problems with quick, reliable testing of the freeze protection in my various cooling systems were solved. I&amp;#8217;m very satisfied by the Kent-Moore Coolant tester&amp;#8217;s accuracy and convenience of use. It&amp;#8217;s a welcome addition to my tool box.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/aftester3.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;610&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Using the Duo-Chek is very simple. Simply dip into the cooling system &lt;br /&gt;(here, we are using the high-fill bottle on a C4) and extract a sample &lt;br /&gt;with the dipper bulb.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/aftester4.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;354&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Then, deposit the same on the Coolant Tester prism and close the sample &lt;br /&gt;door.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/aftester5.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;278&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Point the Tester at a light source, look through the eyepiece and you'll &lt;br /&gt;see a temperature scale. Part of it will be in red and part of it will be &lt;br /&gt;white. The division line between the two corresponds to the freeze &lt;br /&gt;protection in your cooling system. Immediate. Simple. Accurate.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The Kent-Moore Coolant Tester comes with sampling devices for both cooling systems and batteries having removable cell caps. It works with both ethylene glycol (including GM/Texaco &amp;#8220;DEX-COOL&amp;#8221;) and propylene glycol coolants along with battery acid. It reads antifreeze protection down to -60&amp;deg;F and can be recalibrated by the user if necessary. It also reads a battery&amp;#8217;s state of charge. It has a two position eyepiece to accommodate persons who wear glasses. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For more information about the Duo-Chek Coolant and Battery Tester contact SPX Kent-Moore, 28635 Mound Rd., Warren MI 48092. Tel: 800 GMTOOLS Web: Thu, 17 May 2007 14:25:21 +0000 Green Filter <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="green1.gif" src="" alt="green1.gif" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;b&gt;by Hib Halverson&lt;br /&gt;&amp;copy;2003 by Shark Communications&lt;br /&gt;NO USE WITHOUT PERMISSION&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Air filters which use cotton as their filter media have been around for a generation. Pioneered by K&amp;amp;N Engineering over 30 years ago, this type of filter has become popular amongst Corvette enthusiasts because of its low restriction to air flow. For many years, virtually the sole source for these filters was the originator, K&amp;amp;N Engineering. Yeah, there were a few foreign-sourced, knock-offs available, but for a long time, K&amp;amp;N had the lion's share of the market in North America to itself.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the late-'90s, the competitive situation in the cotton filter market began to change. Other aftermarket companies, observing the success K&amp;amp;N Engineering enjoyed with its &quot;Filtercharger&quot; but noticing its core design (cotton gauze inside aluminum mesh attached to a molded rubber structure) hadn't changed in a couple of decades, introduced similar products, some of which used updated designs. Today, in addition to K&amp;amp;N Engineering, Mr. Gasket sells cotton filters under its &quot;Accel Kool Blue&quot; brand, Airaid makes them, Green Filter has its version of this product and there are a few others.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I've used K&amp;amp;N Filters for nearly 20 years in my Corvettes and other cars. About a year ago, I was running my '01 Camaro on K&amp;amp;N's chassis dyno, testing one of its Filtercharger replacement filters. I was surprised to find that filter responsible for a small performance loss compared to the stock, ACDelco paper filter element. This seemed unusual to me because: 1) the testing was on K&amp;amp;N's own dyno, 2) I ran the test more than once to confirm the results and 3) it was the first time in nearly 20 years I saw a performance loss after swapping a stock filter for a K&amp;amp;N.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;It struck me that this particular Filtercharger might have been defective, so I asked the K&amp;amp;N folks for a second filter and some more chassis dyno time to retest it. Unfortunately, they were unwilling to fulfill my requests. At that point, speculating that K&amp;amp;N's reluctance towards more testing suggested a problem with the filter design for the particular vehicle I was using and not a single instance of a defective product; I returned the filter to K&amp;amp;N, thanked them for the dyno time and investigated other options in high-performance air filters. That led me to the Green Filter.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/kb/images/tech/greenfilter.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;155&quot; border-&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Side by side comparison of the panel filter for 90-96 C4. Right is K&amp;amp;N. Left is Green Filter. The white arrows point to the areas of the K&amp;amp;N where rubber has flowed out onto the filter surface.Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/kb/images/tech/greenfilter1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;262&quot; border-&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;The arrows point at the trimmable &quot;nubs&quot; on the green filter (left) and point to the rubber spill-over problem the K&amp;amp;N (right) has. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Green Filter is unknown to many automotive enthusiasts in the U.S. but, over in Europe, it's a huge name, especially in motorsports. In fact, according to Green Filter USA spokesperson, Jason Early, the brand has an astonishing, 85% penetration in the oiled-cotton filter market in Europe. The company was formed in 1995 with the intent of supplying premium, cotton air filters to the racing industry. The product has been used successfully by Peugeot Sport (World Rally Champions), ORECA (they raced Vipers in endurance road racing in the late 90s) along with other notable European race teams. Realizing the profit potential in the street high-performance market, it wasn't long before Green Filter began to make filters for street cars. In late 2001, the Green folks began to market their products in the U.S. Green Filters are manufactured in France, the United Kingdom and at the company's American facility in Braddock, Pennsylvania. Green has filters for most Corvettes from the mid-'60s to '04 with the only exception I can find being the '82 and '84 L83 Crossfire Injection engines.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;There are several differences between a K&amp;amp;N Filtercharger and a Green Filter. I noted some of them the first time I put a K&amp;amp;N and a Green side-by-side on my work bench. The first is color. K&amp;amp;Ns are red. Green Filters are, No big deal. It's just the difference in the dye used in each company's filter oil. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;A more functional difference is how a Green Filter's rubber &quot;seals&quot; (the pliable structure around the edges of a panel filter or on the ends of a round filter) are designed. Most K&amp;amp;N have a simple, injection-molded seal. Hot rubber is injected into a mold holding the filter media. It hardens, then the mold is opened and the part removed. This basic injection molding process is easy and cheap, but some rubber flows onto the filter surface, decreasing available filter area. While you can easily see this difference between the K&amp;amp;N and the Green for a late C4, it's not a big issue because of the huge size of this filter. With smaller filters, such as the units for '85-'89 C4 or C5, or filters even smaller than that, a 1/4 inch or so of rubber &quot;spill-over&quot; can make a difference. With a filter that is, say 4x5-inches, filter area decreases by 25%. Green Filter's more costly process prevents rubber leakage onto the filter media. No practical surface area is wasted and air flow capability is higher, compared to a K&amp;amp;N for the same application.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Another advantage Green Filter has over K&amp;amp;N is that the edges of most Green Filters have &quot;trimmable nubs&quot; molded into the rubber seal to better fit the filter to a wider variety of filter housings. Some air boxes are made of thin plastic that may change shape slightly due to underhood heat. The nubs help Green Filters fit &quot;warped&quot; air boxes. If you have a tight filter mounting, you can trim some of the nubs. If you have an air box that's loose-fitting, leave the nubs as-is. I think trimmable nubs are a darn smart idea.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When comparing other cotton filters to Green, in some cases, you'll note a difference in filter media pleats. Green Filters are pleated parallel to the filter's width. Compared to a filter pleated perpendicular to its length, a Green Filter is more rigid. In some cases this additional rigidity prevents air leaks around the seal caused by the filter flexing due to air flow through it. Another parallel-pleat benefit, compared to a filter with perpendicular pleats, is more pleats results in more filter area.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Probably the most important benefit of a Green Filter over a K&amp;amp;N is not obvious unless you examine the filter media closely. Depending on the application, a K&amp;amp;N has between four and six layers of cotton gauze. Green Filter uses two layers of woven cotton. The difference is significant. Gauze is a good material for a filter, but is somewhat fragile. Areas of reduced thickness or, in extreme cases, even holes can wear in the gauze. The structure of woven cotton is like that of the material of which golf or polo shirts are made. The advantages to woven cotton rather than gauze are: 1) it's thinner but still maintains good filtration. 2) It holds oil more uniformly. 3) It is a lot stronger than a gauze. You can wear a hole in gauze bandage just by rubbing it. You can't do that with a shirt.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;It's not easy to find information about automotive air filter efficiency or standards. Few air filter manufacturers publicly discuss how well their products work. I wonder about that, especially considering how much stuff you find on the Internet about oil filters. What data is available seems to indicate that particles between 10 and 20 microns in size are responsible for most engine wear resulting from abrasive contaminants in the intake charge air. Where the Green Filter--and the K&amp;amp;N for that matter--excel is filtering particles in the 10-20 micron range. In fact, Green folks claim their product can filter particles as small as 5 microns. As far as efficiency, oiled-cotton filters commonly demonstrate filtering efficiencies in the 10-20 micron range of 96-98% and sometimes it can be as high as 99%. Those kinds of filtration efficiency numbers along with the high airflow a Green Filter can sustain is proof that the oil-impregnated cotton filtering idea works pretty well.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;There is a big difference in how paper and oiled-cotton filters work. Paper filters pass particles smaller than the &quot;holes&quot; in the filter material and trap the particles too large to go through the holes. When you think about this a little more, you see why paper filters tend to be restrictive. The holes in the paper have to be really tiny to filter tiny particles. When the holes are really tiny, they pose a restriction to air flow.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Oiled-cotton filters do not work as above. They remove contaminants through a different process--actually three different processes: diffusion, impaction and interception. &quot;Diffusion&quot; traps the smallest particles, many of which are in the damaging, 10-20 micron range. These particles are affected by the forces at work in the intake charge air stream. Changes in velocity and pressure, turbulence and interaction with other molecules cause the motion of these tiny particles to become irregular and frenzied. Once that happens, they don't follow the flow. Their chaoitc activity has them running into fibers then being retained by the oil. This phenomenon enables the filter to catch particles that are much smaller than the openings in the media. &quot;Impaction&quot; occurs when the mass of a particle is so large it is unable to follow curving air flow. Massive particles &quot;drop out&quot; of the air flow, hit the fibers and are retained by the oil. &quot;Interception&quot; applies to &quot;medium-weight&quot; particles traveling with the charge air. As air flows near the fibers, the particles in that air contact the fibers and are captured by the oil on the fibers.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt; A paper filter traps comtaminants only on the surface of the paper. Cotton filters work differently. The layers of cotton fiber catch contaminants, not only on the surface of the media, but throughout its thickness. As a result, cotton filters hold more contamination for a given area than can a typical paper filter. This is why oiled-cotton filters offer low restriction and good filtering and the Green Filter is one of the best.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/kb/images/tech/greenfilter2.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;262&quot; border-&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;My LT5 engine at the time of filter change. It was a straight-across swap. The new Green Filter fit my stock air filter housing perfectly. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I've been testing Green Filters on two different cars since the fall of 2002. One of them is a 1995 ZR-1. Admittedly, at the power level of my engine (about 500hp) there is no performance advantage to the Green Filter over a new, stock paper filter because of the filter area. The stock paper filter used on '89-'96 Corvettes will provide enough air flow for about 600 hp. This is why, when I ran a dyno test comparing the engine with no filter assembly at all to a oiled-cotton filter in a stock filter housing with an open-element DRM air filter top, there was no difference in performance. That situation changes as the filters trap dirt. Because of the different way oil-cotton filters work, they are capable of higher air flow for a given level of contamination than is a paper filter. So, in this case, with a filter as large as the panel filter used on a ZR-1, there's no difference when the filters are new, but after some time in service, the paper filter's ability to flow air decreases quite rapidly whereas the oiled-cotton filter can trap the same level of contamination and not restrict.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/kb/images/tech/greenfilter3.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; height=&quot;283&quot; border-&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Here's the Green Filter for a Chevy Camaro. It's size is also close to what is used on a C5. Note how precisely the unit fits the filter housing. Also, again note, there's no rubber spill-over. The entire filter surface is available for air flow. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The main advantage to the Green Filter on an '89-'96 Corvette is that the filter is reusable. Once it becomes dirty, simply remove the filter and, using Green Filter's &quot;Air Filter Cleaner&quot; (a specific type of detergent), clean the filter according to the directions on the container. Dry the filter, then re-oil it using Green Filter's &quot;Air Filter Oil&quot;, again, following the instructions on the container. The great thing about a Green Filter is you can do this over-and-over again. Barring physical damage, a Green Filter should last the life of the vehicle. When you check the cost of a new paper filter and know you need to replace it every 15,000 miles or so, you see the value of the Green Filter quite clearly.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As for how the Green Filter works in my Camaro? K&amp;amp;N kind of &quot;booted&quot; me off their dyno, I never was able to run any more chassis dyno tests, however, I've run the Green Filter in that car for a number of months. My subjective evaluation is that I detected a slight improvement in the engine's performance at high rpm when I replaced the original paper filter (which I reinstalled and ran for several months after I returned the test item to K&amp;amp;N) with the Green Filter. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If there's anything that can be said against the Green Filter, it's that, compared to K&amp;amp;N, its distribution in the U.S. is limited and, if you want to purchase the filter cleaner and oil separately, you usually need to special order it. Those two problems will gradually become less an issue as Green Filters become more widely available.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the end, what I like best is this filter can be cleaned and reused. I also like the more elegant method of manufacture the Green folks use. Not only does it result in a small increase in useable filter area but it makes the surfaces of a Green Filter look like they are properly finished. For more information on the Green Filter, visit the Green Filter web site at Thu, 17 May 2007 14:13:51 +0000 Eagle F1 GS-D3 Tire <a href=""><img class="imgborder" title="gsd31.jpg" src="" alt="gsd31.jpg" /></a><br /><br />by: Hib Halverson<br /><br />Product Review: &lt;b&gt;by Hib Halverson&lt;br /&gt;&amp;copy;2003 by Shark Communications&lt;br /&gt;NO USE WITHOUT PERMISSION&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Of late, Goodyear has been revamping it's ultra-performance, replacement tire offerings for C4s and C5s.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the Summer of 2002, Goodyear introduced the Eagle F1 Supercar, the OE Z06 tire, in a replacement version sized to fit non-Z06 C5s and some C4s. Several months later, Goodyear debuted a second ultra-performance tire, the Eagle F1 GS-D3. This newest tire fills-out the hard-core, performance end of Goodyear's tire line by replacing the F1 GS for most non-run-flat applications. Currently, the GS-D3 is available in non-Z06 C5 sizes and some C4 sizes. This tire is made, alongside the F1 Supercar, at Goodyear's plant in Lawton, Oklahoma.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1a.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;278&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;It's one thing for an ultra-performance tire to work well when the road is dry. It's another for an ultra-performance tire to work well in both wet weather as well as in the dry. Relatively new to the all-weather, ultra-performance tire market is the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3. I'm opinion, based on a lot of subjective testing, is that it surpasses the performances of both the Michelin Pilot Sport and the Bridgestone Potenza on wet roads. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;How does the F1 GS-D3 compare to the F1 Supercar? Well, the Supercar is still Goodyear's most aggressive, dry traction tire and remains one of the top choices if you want a DOT-legal tire for serious performance driving on the street and occasional trips to the track. The new GS-D3 fits in Goodyear's tire line just a step below the Supercar. It doesn't have the Supercar's limited tread depth and lunatic-fringe dry traction, but it's better in the wet and is just a bit better in tread life, too. It is an improvement over the F1 GS EMT &quot;run-flat&quot; in dry traction, noise and ride. By virtue of a completely different tread design, the tire's performance on wet roads improves over EMT's, too. For the C4 driver, the F1 GS-D3 is a significant improvement over the Eagle GS-C that was O.E. on those cars.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1b.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;285&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Side by side are Goodyear's two &quot;big dogs&quot; for the C4 and C5, the F1 Supercar (left) and the F1 GS-D3. The differences in tread design are significant. At left, the F1 Supercar's tread is designed to have outstanding dry traction performance. It's wet performance is good but not great. At right, the F1 GS-D3's tread is designed to have great wet traction performance as well as very good dry traction performance. In addition, by virtue of a slightly deeper tread, the F1 GS-D3 might have better tread life. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the last eight months I've tried the F1 GS-D3 on a C5, a C4, a late model Camaro and an Audi A4 sedan. I've done this testing on city and suburban streets, highways, curvy mountain roads and on selected sections of Goodyear's Proving Ground at San Angelo, Texas. Some of this testing was done on either public roads in wet weather or on special wetted test course at the Proving Ground. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The Goodyear San Angelo facility's vehicle dynamics area, a 540,000 sq/ft. asphalt pad (for comparison, a football field is only 90,000 sq/ft.) was the site of some wet handling tests I ran. The &quot;VDA&quot; has a 1-degree slope and a water distribution system that spreads a layer of water, .050-.060-in. thick over the entire facility. Goodyear had turned on the water and set up a braking test and a low-speed autocross. The cars used for testing were C5s with automatics and base suspensions. One had a set of Michelin Pilot Sports. A second had a set of Bridgestone Potenza S-03s and the third car had F1 GS-D3s. Tire sizes on all cars were stock. Tire pressures were 30 psi cold.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1c.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;263&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;The VDA at Goodyear's Proving Ground is the size of half-a-dozen football fields and has a one-degree slope. A sophisticated water speading system can cover it with a layer of water up to .060-in. thick. Image: Aaron Vandersommers.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The braking test was from 55 mph. The Pilot and the Potenza brought the car to a stop in 87-90 feet. The new Goodyear's performance was 83-85 feet for an approximate, 5% improvement. At first, 5% might not seem like a significant difference, but consider: in many wet weather driving situations requiring the car's full braking ability, you're doing so under emergency conditions and an extra 5% shorter stopping distance might mean the difference between wrecking and being able breathe a sign of relief while thinking, &quot;Whew! I'm glad I got the car stopped!&quot;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1d.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;271&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;In the wet slalom, the best tire on a C5 was the F1 GS-D3 ahead of the Pilot Sport and the Potenza. Image: Aaron VAndersommers.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The autocross was not timed and was used as a subjective evaluation of the car's limit handling on a wet surface. After driving all three tires, I felt the Goodyear had a slightly higher breakaway limit in the wet than both the Pilot Sport and the S-03 Pole Position. Also, compared to the Bridgestone, the Goodyear was more predictable. Once the Bridgestone began to slip, it broke-away abruptly. With the Goodyear, things happened just a bit slower. I observed two different drivers spin the Bridgestone-shod car in the same spot on the course. None of the Goodyear cars, regardless of who was driving, spun in that spot. It was a place where an unprepared driver was liable to lift abruptly in a turn. Once the Bridgestone hits its limit in the wet, it breaks-loose instantly. Not a good thing, in my opinion.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For all three tires, Goodyear supplied traction coefficient vs. percentage of slip data taken at 60 mph in the wet. While at that higher speed, each tires' hydroplane characteristics may have had a slightly greater impact, the data seemed to confirm what I'd felt in the 40-50-mph slalom. This data showed that the F1 GS-D3 is a moderate improvement over the Michelin and slightly better than the Bridgestone, until the slip angle reaches 30-deg. Past that (angles you'd almost never see unless you were loosing or had lost control of the vehicle) the Bridgestone and the Goodyear are about the same with both having an edge over the Michelin. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I asked Goodyear Engineer, Melissa Montisano, what features of this new tire would cause it to better both those other, admittedly good tire brands in the testing I did. She told me that in the 55-mph. braking test and low-speed autocross, on surfaces wetted to a depth of .050-.060-in., the tires' hydroplaning characteristics are not the most critical factor. What makes the F1 stick better in the wet at those speeds is its tread design, its tread compound and the size of its footprint.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I've had yet a third opportunity to test the Goodyear F1 GS-D3, but for a longer duration and on more familiar vehicles: my own '95 Corvette (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear) and '01 Camaro (245/50ZR16 all around). Last fall (2002) I installed the tires on both cars and this past winter (2002-2003) I had a chance to try both cars at speeds up to 85 mph during several winter storms that battered the Southern California area in February and again in April. Since I put the tires on last fall, I have put 14,500 test miles on those two cars using the F1 GS-D3. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1e.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;217&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;My 14,000 miles test of the GS-D3 included more than just running around on Goodyear's proving ground. I put a set of the tires on my own C4 and tested them in good weather and bad. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The most noticeable visual trait of the GS-D3 is the &quot;V-TRED&quot;. In fact, vaguely similar tread patterns are seen on a few other brands of tires and are perceived by some as a fad or a status issue. In fact, the GS-D3's tread is a critical part of this tires excellent wet performance characteristics. No doubt, this deep V tread works. On a number of occasions, driving at the speed limit or higher on the Interstates around the L.A. area, during heavy rain storms, I hit scattered spots of shallow standing water, some perhaps deeper than what was on Goodyear's VDA. These new Goodyears were able to roll on though without any serious hydroplaning.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As to &lt;i&gt;why&lt;/i&gt; V-TRED works, I learned that at the &quot;Glass-Plate&quot; testing facility at Goodyear's Proving Ground. You may have seen images of tires, rolling across wetted-down, glass plates. San Angelo's Glass Plate facility is where Goodyear does that kind of test work. It's not often that tire companies invite writers to visit the venues they use for this kind of testing, much less let them go down into the underground lab beneath the plate and watch their engineers at work, but Goodyear did that for this &lt;i&gt;Corvette Action Center&lt;/i&gt; review. The actual plate is about 18-in. wide, 36-in long, 4.5-in. thick and covered by an .080-in. of water. The Glass Plate control system is designed to hold that water depth accurately as long as the wind is less than 2-mph. If the wind velocity is higher than that, no testing is conducted. After each run across the plate, automated equipment cleans off the plate and restores the water layer to the .080-in. depth. The plate itself is scientific-grade, optically-correct glass. The imaging equipment is digital and computer-controlled. Strobes are used to light the tire as it crosses the plate and the water is dyed green, which shows up best in a color image. While we were in the &quot;Pit,&quot; a Goodyear test driver ran a C5 Coupe fitted with F1 GS-D3s over the plate a couple of times at 40 mph while I watched the test images get processed then looked at the results.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1f.jpg&quot; width=&quot;283&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;This is the top-side of Goodyear's Glass Plate Facility at San Angelo. This image was shot as a C5, moving at 60 mph, crossed the plate. Image: Aaron Vandersommers.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1g.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;286&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;This is the same tire on the same car from underneath. It was shot with Goodyear's special imaging equipment. Image: Goodyear Tire and Rubber.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1h.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;219&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Here's another interesting tire testing device I saw in operation at Goodyear's proving ground. The trailer can carry various weights and is equipped with a braking device. In this image, the trailer is fitted with a C4-Corvette-sized F1 GS-D3. The trailer is used to evaluate wet traction at various levels of weight on the tire. Image: Aaron Vandersommers.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Goodyear-supplied data accumulated at this facility for the Bridgestone Potenza S-03, the Michelin Pilot Sport and the F1 GS-D3. Typically, this data is taken at 2mph (which establishes a 100% footprint &quot;baseline&quot;), 40 mph, 60 mph and sometimes higher speeds, depending on the tire or the testing required. In this case, the data was for 2, 40 and 60 mph. At 2mph, obviously, all three had 100% of the footprint area retained on a pass through the .080-in water. At 40 mph, They varied from 88% area retention for the Goodyear and the Bridgestone to 91% for the Michelin. At 60 mph, things changed. The Michelin dropped to 61% of the area retained. The Bridgestone was at 64% and the Goodyear was at 67%. If you want to go fast in the wet, the best hydroplaning resistance in the ultra-performance tire market, right now, comes with the new GS-D3.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This tire's improved resistance to hydroplaning comes from the V-TRED technology. Circumferential, water-evacuation channels, such as Goodyear uses on the Aquatred 3, wouldn't work on a tire like the F1 GS-D3 because they'd degrade its dry-traction capability. The solution is long, sweeping grooves that are at an angle, but not as sharp an angle as seen on previous Goodyear performance tires. The V-TRED grooves extend more than three times the length of the tire contact patch. When the tire is rotating these grooves greatly enhance the flow of water to the outside of the tire's tread, yet still put lots of rubber on the road. At one of Goodyear's web sites,, is an outstanding, graphical display of the V-TRED idea along with a lot of other pretty cool image stuff. You need the latest Macromedia Flash plug-in for your browser to view it.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1i.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;241&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;During testing for the F1 GS-D3 on my own car, I drove one of my favorite road test roads, the Angeles Crest Highway, at high speed in a driving rainstorm. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Now, back to real world testing. In SoCal, during the storm in April, I decided to take my Corvette over my 38-mile &quot;test loop&quot; of mountain roads in the Angeles National Forest north of L.A. Now, this is normally where I road test cars to subjectively evaluate their at-limit handling but, up until then, I'd always done that in the dry. I wanted to see how these new tires would work in a real world wet test over a road I new well, so &quot;The Crest&quot; was my choice. My loop starts on Angeles Crest Highway. I turn left on the Angeles Forest Highway. Then, I go right on Upper Big Tujunga Canyon and right again back on Angeles Crest. When I pass the junction of Angeles Crest and Angeles Forest a second time, I've run 38 miles. The day I was up there the weather and road conditions varied from breaks in the clouds with the road almost dry in spots to heavy rain with water and even mud draining across the road. The Crest is a potpourri of driving challenges with everything from fairly tight groups of linked turns characteristic of a fast autocross to some fairly long straights. In this mix are sweepers, esses, off-camber turns--basically, a little of everything. The two characteristics of the F1 GS-D3 that came though clearly in this test were: 1) the tire's resistance to hydroplaning and 2) its predictability at the limit on wet surfaces. This testing convinced me that the best choice in an all-weather, ultra-performance tire for a Corvette (or any just about any performance car, for that matter) is a Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1j.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;295&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;When I pick bad weather for tire testing, I don't fool around. I shot this in the area where we were wet testing. At higher altitudes that day, it was snowing hard. This was a CalTrans snow plow heading for the higher elevations. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;During my visit to Goodyear's Proving Ground, I spent some time on its 2.5 mile road race course subjectively evaluating the F1 GS-D3's at-limit, dry traction. The test car was an Audi A4 sedan with a 220hp V6 and a six-speed manual trans--not really a car I'd choose to use for a tire test, but one that is, nevertheless, in the less-aggressive end of the target market for this tire. Again, the tire sizes were stock and the tire pressures were 30-psi cold.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1k.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;244&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Variety is the spice of tire testing so I went from wet weather to dry when I ran the F1 GS-D3 on a short road race track at Goodyear's Proving Ground. As you can see from the front tires, the Audi A4 is not the best platform for really fast driving. This images explains why the front tires showed signs of the sidewalls rolling under. Image: Aaron Vandersommers.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I ended up being quick time of the day amongst all other writers present so, even though I'd never driven that track and never driven an all-wheel drive car, I knew I'd run the new Goodyears harder than anyone else present. There was no competing tire products to test so about the only conclusions I could draw were: 1) the F1 GS-D3 is quite predictable, certainly more so than an old GS-C and better than the F1 GS and 2) it is a pretty forgiving tire in that you could take them right up to the limit, then stray back and forth just across it, and not abruptly end up in the weeds. As fast as I ran the tires, it was difficult to gain much more of a subjective impression because an Audi A4 is not the best platform for testing like this. It felt quite heavy for its size, has too much body roll and an awful shift linkage. Additionally, the 30-psi cold figure was probably too low for that car as the outside edges of the front tires showed clear evidence the sidewalls were rolling under. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I also had a real-world, impression of the F1 GS-D3 in the try during part of my Angeles Crest trip. On Upper Big Tujunga Canyon Road, the surface was nearly dry for one 2-3 miles stretch. I was able to run pretty hard. As the tires on the car just before I put the GS-D3s on were F1 Supercars, I could make a pretty good subjective comparison. The F1 GS-D3 doesn't have quite the extreme dry traction limit but the difference is quite subtle and only the most aggressive driver will notice it. Because the GS-D3s I was testing were at full tread depth and their tread is deeper than that of the Supercar, at the limit you can detect the GS-D3's tread is moving around a bit but, again, this is something only the most aggressive and perceptive driver will experience. Overall, the F1 GS-D3 is exactly the dry traction tire Goodyear claims it to be--just a small step down from the F1 Supercar. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1l.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;339&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;Goodyear engineers added a few extras to the F1 GS-D3 such a &quot;rim flange protector&quot; on the sidewall which prevents wheel damage if you scuff the tires up against a curb. Image: Author.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This tire, in a limited amount of sizes, was introduced over in Europe back in the spring of '02. American car magazines seldom do tire tests these days, but tire testing is wildly popular amongst the European automotive press. In the six months following the European debut, the British magazine, &lt;i&gt;EVO&lt;/i&gt; and the German publications &lt;i&gt;Auto Zeitung , Sport Auto&lt;/i&gt; and &lt;i&gt;Auto Bild&lt;/i&gt; all ran tire comparison tests and &lt;i&gt;Auto Bild&lt;/i&gt; has run two. Each of these tests included the F1 GS-D3. In the interest of saving space, I can't list all those results, but suffice to say, the new Goodyear was an outright winner in some of these tests and placed very well in all of them. My guess is, further details of these tests can be found on each magazine's web sites and, perhaps, English versions of the data may be on Goodyear's site.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;At this point, I'm a believer. In fact, I like the tire so much, as one of the Captains of the Southern California Section of the 50th Anniversary National Corvette Caravan in late June of '03 and the driver of the SoCal Caravan's lead car, I left the F1 GS-D3s on the car for the Caravan. On the trip we had good weather most of the trip but the final day's drive, though eastern Arkansas, western Tennessee and southcentral Kentucky, it rained. In fact, during parts of that day, it freaking poured. The F1 GS-D3 gave me the dry traction and handling I wanted but also some outstanding performance and safety on wet roads which I needed to lead hundreds of cars during the five-day trip to Bowling Green.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div align=&quot;center&quot; class=&quot;sf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;/reviews/images/reviews/f1m.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot; width=&quot;251&quot; border=&quot;2&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;b&gt;My initial impression of the Goodyear F1 GS-D3 on my own C4 was so good that I decided to keep a set on the car for the 4600 mile 50th Anniversary Corvette Caravan from Southern California to Bowling Green. Image: Sandy Rubel.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you're read this far you might be considering a purchase of F1 GS-D3s. If you own a later C4 that came stock with EMTs or a C5, you might be wondering about running a non-EMT tire on a car which has no spare. The solution is the &quot;Tire Inflation Kit&quot; GM includes with every Z06 and many C5s exported to markets where run-flat tires are not used. The Inflation Kit includes an aerosol can of sealant and a 12-volt air compressor. You inject the sealant into the flat tire with the aerosol can then re-inflate the tire with the compressor. This kit will fix any small leak such as what you'd get from a nail, a piece of glass or other small road hazard. While the Inflation Kit works very well for most typical leaks, it will not solve problems with significant tire damage such as the large holes EMTs can sustain and still be driven limited distances. There is also another difficulty with the Inflation Kit and that is, after its used to fix a leak, the Low Tire Pressure Warning System sensors used on C5s will usually be damaged by contamination by the sealant. Unfortunately, these are compromises you must accept if you want the better performance and less noise available from a non-EMT tire.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;On my list of tires, the new Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 is the best, all-round, ultra-performance, tire. Thu, 17 May 2007 13:57:39 +0000