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  1. #91
    Member tcxd40's Avatar
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    (2) Black '93s, purple '81, '69 vintage racer
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    DAMN nice job!!

    Best work I've seen done by an individual bar none.

    tcdx40

  2. #92
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    Thanks for the compliment!

    Last week it looked like luck is not always on my side. I tried to set the dwell again (mixture so to say) but one needle seemed to be stuck. Removed the carb and then I was able to move the needle. I had a strange feeling it didn't go as planed and when the needle came out I saw it broke in two pieces. So the front part is still stuck in the throttle plate, I don't know how to remove it without freezing it very very deep or drilling it the needle out without distroying the carb surface. Yesterday I found an old E4ME with a staight throttle plate so next week I'll be fixing my carb.

    Btw. I changed my original needles for some aftermarket ones that can be adjusted with a strewdriver, no need to have those because I also have the Thexton flextool to adjust the original needles.

    Groeten Peter

  3. #93
    Moderator KANE's Avatar
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    Dark Blue 1982 Trans Am(s): Polo Green 1995 MN6
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    Fabulous work Peter!
    1982 Chevrolet Corvette , 350 2k RPM Stall Converter + Updgraded Transmission + Governor Set For 5,450rpm Shifts 3.73 Code 42 Dark Mettalic Blue with a twist

  4. #94
    Original L81 engine pic's.. GerryLP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peer81 View Post
    ....

    I think everybody knows how to use a choke angle gauge. First I tried to follow Lars his paper on this but it turned out to be very different from the original settings. Checked everything again with the choke gauge, still needed to make some changes but not that big.


    ... Well that's it for now.

    Groeten Peter
    Hey Peter,

    What is the Thexton number for the choke gage? I still need to get one...

    GerryLP

  5. #95
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    It's a Thexton 372

    Groeten Peter

  6. #96
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    Changed the trottle plate today. I altered the original plate to bigger pre emission mixture holes and installed bushings for the primairie throttle shaft, so I did the same with this throttle plate. Also took the change to knife edge the 4 throttle valves for some extra cfm's. Put everything back together and it started again!

    Still need to reset the curb idle, choke idle mixture with the dwell meter and with the choke on (without the dwell meter).

    Then a question, last time the engine was idling at 3000 rpm, at one time the tacho stopped at the same time with the other gauge's. Blown fuse, but after changing the fuse the gauges were working again except for the tacho. Also checked the other fuses but everything was fine there. I was thinking maybe the tacho shorted out and after that the fuse melted? Or could there be another problem why the tacho isn't working anymore (without changing or disconnecting wires)

    Groeten Peter

  7. #97
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    A little update.
    No new pictures since last time. Got the carb back on the engine, made a test run and everything went fine till the engine started to run incorrectly except in higher rpm. Found out the fuel level was way to high (almost overflowing the carb) and the spark plugs were black with carbon. It engine started also very difficult because after a week all the fuel was gone. So took the carb back off the engine and apart. I have to find some better epoxy that will hold with fuel on top, and also check the fuel inlet with the needle (again).

    I made a small list to see what has to be done so I don't forget anything, there is it.
    In random order.
    1. new connector for the 700r4, old one broke but it is an easy fix.
    2. carb buildup after finding and repairing the problems
    3. i miss a clip for the rear window that holds the chrome trim
    4. I orderd the wrong indicator light relais for led lights, new one on its way
    5. new foglights also in its way, want to color match them with the white indicator lights
    6. adjusting the doors, have done that today
    7. adjusting the door windows
    8. checking the power steering, rebuild the pump myself but at idle the power steering isn't working
    9. let somebody make and install a true dual with x-pipe in stainless steel
    10. make and install the leather interior
    11. find or make a chrome or polished licenseplate holder for the small plates we have
    12. find a t-connector to connect the cc vacuumline to the vacuumline from the headlights
    13. after some driving check all the nuts and bolts if some came loose and lock them with locktite
    14. aiming the headlights to the correct setting
    15. polish the rims again
    16. change the interior led (to cold blueish white) for normal bulbs (dim function will work again to)
    17. back the the painter for some final things
    18. setting the suspension to the right spec's
    19. taking the vette to the checking station for road acceptation
    20. changing the alarm horn for one that works
    21. testing and refilling the airco.

    Well that is about it

    Groeten Peter.

  8. #98
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    Small update:

    Jobs: 3, 4, 5, 6, 12 and 14 have been resolved and I'm working on number 2, 11, 15 and 20.

    Several weeks ago I did some break in testing for the engine. In other words cilindercompression build up!
    After the engine warmed up, first some 3/4 throttle testruns to 4000 - 4500 rpm. After that some 3/4 to full throttle testruns to 4500 - 5000rpm. I didn't go over 4500 because I wasn't that sure about everything and I wasn't sitting in my seat but on some foam...
    After the ... run the engine began to run very very rich so I have to go back to the garage but here is a small film about the testrun.

    Btw. This is on a early sundaymorning and without the exhaust (still needs to be installed).
    Enjoy

    http://peter.all-corvette.com/Corvette/Testrun.3GP

    Groeten Peter

  9. #99
    Original L81 engine pic's.. 82ColEd's Avatar
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    Great to see you going down the list and knocking them out as you go. .

    And here i thought we'll look at a engine running..

    IT's ALIVE !!! Very cool.. I love the anticipation for the 2nd run past the camera. And you can hear her rumble in the distance.. VERY Cool!!


    -Stefan

  10. #100
    LRose26
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    Just curious, what kind of pistons did you put on your '81?

  11. #101
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    Speed pro's with 4 valve reliefs (5cc). But if I would do it again I would go with max 2 valve reliefs for a better quench area.

    Greetings Peter

  12. #102
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    I'm sorry for letting everybody sit in the dark for about 4 months. Not that I have to many updates but let's begin.

    To get back to the list, all is resolved except for:
    1. got the connector but lockup isn't working like it should
    2. carb is working and rebuild it correctly but after a few days still all fuel gone from the carb and can't get her under 800-900 rpm in P (I knife edged the upper side of the throttle valves from my old carb and maybe there is to much play between the valves and the valve wall)
    7. widows need some extra time to adjust. New seals seem to be to thick at the rear of the door.
    10. custom leather interior is on its way, they'll begin in a few weeks
    17. got an appointment with another painter to paint some small things like the valance panel and side marker surroundings. To correct small problems with the cars paint I'll go back to the original painter to see if he can fix it.
    18. still needs to be done, not a big problem
    21. got the system charged with something else now to see if it is air tight. If everything is oke R12 will go back into it.

    But to continue.
    Got the new tires on. Dunlop GT Qualifier, much better then the old BF's I think.

    And I also got new chrome bolts (BBS) that fit surrounding the heart of the rim.


    Pictures rebuilding the carb.


    I see now I didn't epoxy the accelerator plug and under the M/C solenoid...

    The true dual exhaust.
    50mm (between 2.25 and 2.5") stainless pipe, with Ultraflow Dynomax mufflers. No cat needed overhere.




    The seats. His it the color the entire interior will be (except for the black carpet). As you can see the guy working on my seats has some idea's on his own, with a few conversations he convinced me that his idea was better the the original layout. I also have to say I changed the "bump" in the middle of the seat. Normally this bump would be half way in my back and after driving for more the 2 hours I was broken. Now the bump is lower where it should be, drives much nicer now.



    As you can see the leather has wrinkled a little. In the mean time the upper side of the seat is almost perfect and the bottom side still needs some extra attention to remove the wrinkels from the left and right sides. As you can see the lower part continues in the upper part of the seat and the inserted part in the middle is now better the original (more depth in it)

    Well that's it for now with the pictures

    Greetings Peter

  13. #103
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    After a very very long time with nothing... here another update

    In the meantime I found a "nice" set of Dart 180cc heads. But when I inspect them here in Holland almost all the valves where bend.... Let a shop check both heads and after some minor shaving they were allright.
    At this moment they're save in a box till I have some time and money to look for the other parts.
    Want to go with 1.6 magnum rollertip rockers and some new valves etc etc.
    Just by luck through my work I visited somebody that had a rebuild valve grinder. Still can pick it up for 50 euro's (no money I think) so I can backcut the new valves myself.
    I also want to cc the heads and after that do some porting.
    But for now the heads.







    The exhaust is in it's place. After this picture I did a little polishing so it looks a little better. I have to o2 bugs but the openings were to small for a wideband sensor. So I needed to lower the exhaust and with a dremel open up the opening some more. Problem the exhaust studs were all rusted and that to replace them. Well it took me 6 houres to get them all out but after that the new ones where easy



    Of course had some problems in the meantime.. Found I was missing coolant somewhere. After some research found the new coolant reservoir was sitting to low and the nipple from the airco dryer was pressing on the reservoir. Problem was I had a different right inner fender and it was sitting just a little lower then the old one. After redrilling the holes everything is fine now (with a new reservoir of courese)









    After that the next problem, where did I put my camera? After looking for it a number of times I decided to buy a new one.

    On ebay I found a dual sensor wideband tuner. In the picture you can see the display mounted in front of the dash compartement (next to that my finished steering wheel with matching leather).
    In general the air fuel mixture should be 14.7 (parts air) and 1 part fuel. On heavy acceleration more on the save side with 13:1.
    As the E4ME is controlling the primaries the idle mixture is nice around 14 - 15:1. When driving the mixture is lean around 17:1 and on heavy acceleration it's to rich with 8:1. So still some work to do there.



    Problem with the carb why it is running to lean. First I checked all the vacuum tubes with a vacuum meter. No problem there but when I tried to check the carb bolts one bolt on the rear had distroyed the last piece of thread in there. So bought a v-coil (or heli-coil) set to put on some new threads.









    Second problem with the carb as a result of the first I couldn't get the idle rpm below the 700. After checking the baseplate and put it against the light this is what I found.









    Yesterday I had some time to loosen up the little screws that hold the blades in place. Opened and closed the blades a few time for some better centration, after that some small hand adjustments and now it looks alot better (less leaks I think). Because I also knife edged the blades I replaced one with a normal uncut blade but it was no better than the cut ones. So I hope this will fix the problem.

    Last week I also bought 2 empty cows so that the carpender can start on the interoir (dash). Almost 6 m2 so this should be enough to cover everything plastic with leather. The top of the dash and the lower parts of the doors are going to be black leather.





    Till next time

    Greetings Peter

  14. #104
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    Default Frame Off

    This is nice and after seeing these picture I can not wait to get started on mine. This is a job well done.

  15. #105
    Administrator Tom Bryant's Avatar
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    1959 black 270hp (9/2/69) 1981 Beige L81(10/20/80)
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    Thanks for the update. You're making good progress. Can't wait to see what the dash looks like covered in leather. Should be nice.

    Tom
    NCRS 1360.............SACC 2082.............C1 Registry..............L81 Registry
    1959 Chevrolet Corvette 1981 Chevrolet Corvette , 350 L81 automatic Frost Beige

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