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  1. #76
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    Whooops, I see now I didn't update this topic for a few months. Not that there is so much to tell but here we go.

    I continueed with the steering column, thanks to the great help from Jim Shea I managed to complete the column. Not that it is to difficult but there where some parts I just didn't knew where they went


    New lower bearing.


    Sanded the plastic parts for the new interieur color.

    I also noticed that my brake discs were to thin, and of course with no brake fluid in the system now was the time to change them.


    Old front disc.


    New disc (almost 4.5mm thicker)

    After that checked for disc run out and corrected it. Run out should be max 0.12mm and in the front both discs had 0.40mm, at the rear was 0.15 and 0.05mm




    As you can see, this will keep you bussy for an entire day...


    And the end result. 3 discs have a run out of 0.05mm and 1 has 0.02mm so I'm very happy with that.

    Continueing with the steering column...
    The yellow spacer ball (in picture) still worked perfect and this time I secured the sector bolts with some locktite (I don't like my upper column piece comming loose while I'm driving)

    A nice layer of grease on everything except for the tilting mechanism (upper piece in picture).



    [img[http://peter.all-corvette.com/Corvette/IMG_4814.JPG[/img]




    So far the steering column, the rest is easy to rebuild. A big thanks to Jim Shea, without him I would have ended up with a few pieces outside of the column

    Next months the interior will be the main thing. Here a small reminder what I'm looking for as an end result (this is a concept)


    But first a nice day to clean the entire car. Wash, clay and polish week



    I think it's nice that I polished the front window trims and also a piece of the rockerpanel to have a "connecting line" between the front and rear wheels. Normally the upper piece of the rockerpanel is polished but I choose for the deeper laying row under it, its a thinner line but gives a nice effect.




    The difference between polished and non polished...


    I also altered the upper trim to better connect with the side trims but mine didn't stay in its place that nicely so I helped a little.



    And last but not least, some pictures from a seat in progress.






    The seat is compleetly wraped in leather, the foam in this picture isn't fixed to the seat. As you can see the seat will be a little different, the big bumps will be less (in the lower back of the seat) and the "rows" will continue down making the upper and lower half more one piece I'm still not happy with the rows but you'll see next time what I had in mind.

    Greetings Peter

  2. #77
    Original L81 engine pic's.. 82ColEd's Avatar
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    Again a very from here.. I still admire you're patience. And it is coming together. Very nicely..




    -Stefan

  3. #78
    Original L81 engine pic's.. GerryLP's Avatar
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    Peter,

    Wow! You have been busy! I liked the simple and clever solution to the brake rotor run-out. In the US they basically machine the rotors in place to make the run out fall in within limits.

    Looking good!

    GerryLP

  4. #79
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    Patience and the lack of money go hand in hand

    Groeten Peter

  5. #80
    Member Rawj's Avatar
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    Hello Peter...,
    It's been a while and you probably don't need these anymore but I thought I'd send them anyway. Here are pics of the brake release handle attachments bolts that you were looking for several months ago (!).
    Working in the dash compartment right now and was a good time to take a few pics. Bolts are 7/16" in size.

  6. #81
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    Thanks for the pictures, but I already found the right bolts and the right place to mount the bracket. But still thanks

    I had a little problem a couple of days ago.
    Tried to hook up the underhood light. Battery was still connected and I had wraped the + and ground together with some tape. When I was trying to get them out of the tape I found out they toughed each other and within a second the tape begon to smoke, half a second later smoke was comming out of the wiringharness and that was the moment I stopped trying to get them apart and ran for the battery! Lucky for me I didn't torque the bolts to the - pool came right off.
    Lucky for me no big problems only the black - wire inside the wiringharness was a little thinner then the rest so that wire is compleetly stripped from its isolation (or melted off) the other wires are still find but this was a close call I think. Tomorrow I'll check the wiringharness again and replace the stripped black wire. Also need to find out why the fuse didn't blow when I needed it to!

    Groeten Peter

  7. #82
    Administrator Tom Bryant's Avatar
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    That could have been a desaster. We all do this sort of thing even though we know not to make any electrical connections with the battery connected. Glad that it wasn't any worse than just the one wire.

    Tom
    1959 Chevrolet Corvette 1981 Chevrolet Corvette , 350 L81 automatic Frost Beige

  8. #83
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    Lucky for me everything worked out fine

    A little change in plans for this year, I hoped to finish the vette this year but that was without the economical crissis. I got a nice deal for leaving my currect employer but now I'm no the hunt for a new job. At this moment there is absolutely now work for architects here some I'm changing into another field of expertise But this means I'm going to hold off the interior for this year and also the exhaust (maybe in the winter 2009?)

    For this moment I have some small electrical problems which I can fix and I have a carb rebuild kit from Cliff Ruggles (also his book) with slightly different secondairies. So now I have the time I'm going to do a Q-jet rebuild to the best of my efforts. After the Q-jet is rebuild and (so far tuned) I'm going to begin with the break in of the engine. Lucky for me we have a "1/4 mile concreet strip" on your own ground

    Groeten Peter

  9. #84
    alexdrastico
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    Hello Peter, i'm Sandro from Italy.
    I'own a 1981 red corvette, and my dream is to do this work to my car1Congratulations great job.

  10. #85
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    Hello Sandro,

    Thank you for the compliment
    With a lot of spare time and some extra money you can do the same.

    Groeten Peter

  11. #86
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    Small update today.
    Last week I got the package I ordered at Cliff Ruggles for my E4ME Q-jet. I had read the book Cliff wrote and then I found out he also has his own website where I could order stuff.
    The things I ordered. A rebuild kit, two secondary rods, bushingkit for the primary shaft, a kit with a tap and small screws to correctly close off the stop on the underside of the carb (normally they use some epoxy to close them but this with some epoxy should be much better, and last a other AC solenoid to adjust the rpm when the airco is on.


    I begon with the disassembly. Taking the throttle body assembly apart, removing the old bushings and installing the new ones. After that clean everything and begin the assembly.


    Important is to sell all the throttle plates to a 90 degrees angle at WOT. I think most of you will know how to do this because most to the oem q-jet will go further then 90 degrees at WOT.


    One strange thing, I put in new mixture needles that came with the rebuild kit. Of course i checked the settings for the old needles and this is what I found. Left had 2.1/2 turns and right had 5.1/2 turns. I punt in the new ones like it should 3.1/3 turns.
    More next time

    Groeten Peter

  12. #87
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    Small update for this project.

    I finished the carb a few days ago. Lost some parts in the proces and found out my air valve was bend in a bad way. No real problems just a few delays ordering parts in the States. I also ordered all the Thexton tools I needed, including the choke angle gauge (latest part I received)

    To continue were I left. Took out all the stops at the bottom of the carb.


    Altered the secondary airvalves for better transision between primairies and secondaries.
    Left one is finished, right side still needs to be done.


    The bend airvalve sensor


    Other topic.
    Found a nice Alfa 159 headlight on ebay in Germany so I bought it and I'm going to alter it to fit my dubble bi-xenon headlights.


    Of course I only need two of the lenses, take them further apart, but everything together in a nice way. The new headlights will also be 1 to 2 inches lower then original.


    As you can see these headlights are 3 or 4 layers so very easy to change them in something new, only takes some time.


    Back to the E4ME.
    Tapped all the openings and put in some hex. bolts with epoxy between the bolt and the openings. Of course before putting in the bolts I took out the restrictions in the secondarie openings.




    Putting the carb further back together, reseating the checkerball and testing it. Installed a new larger fuel inlet (original 0.125" new one is 0.130") and idle tubes.


    Set the new float to 0.420" per Lars his paper.


    Cleaned and reinstalled the M/C solenoid with the lean mixture screw and after setting the idle mixture screw I installed the primairy rods and the plunger as a trail fit.




    Drilled the secondarie accelerator tubes, like explained in Doug Roe's book.


    Completed the airhorn with bother the airflaps. Set the tension spring to 3/4. Also changed the stop so the flaps can now fully open and I can set the max opening with a little hex. bolt.


    Setting the rich stop. The white indicator wasn't accurate enough so I took my digital caliper and that worked perfect.


    Next the idle air valve (sensor), setting it with the Thexton tool.


    I also changed the accelerator pump rod. After some calculations I took off 2.1mm to enlarge the pump shot, if it turns out to be to much I can still change it back to the old one. The finished products except for setting the choke things.


    I think everybody knows how to use a choke angle gauge. First I tried to follow Lars his paper on this but it turned out to be very different from the original settings. Checked everything again with the choke gauge, still needed to make some changes but not that big.


    After that we started the engine (not exactly a though and go but oke). Changed to oil because off the excess of fuel in it from previous attempts to start. With the new oil in, first started to 30 minute 2000 - 2500 rpm run for the camshaft. Well that's it for now.

    Groeten Peter

  13. #88
    Original L81 engine pic's.. GerryLP's Avatar
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    Cool Show-And-Tell, Peter!

    GerryLP

  14. #89
    Original L81 engine pic's.. 82ColEd's Avatar
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    Wowe Peter..


    I wish i was as able as you seem to be..


    Thanks for the update.



    -Stefan

  15. #90
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    Thanks Gerry and Stefan!

    Today I found the problem with my brake system, it was working for 10% (my handbrake worked better then my normal brake... First thought it was the booster, but after checking vacuum at the intake with and without the booster there was no change in the vacuum signal (17 HG) also when applying the brakes and relaising no vacuumdrop so the booster is working fine. Then jacked up the vette, removed all the wheels and there is was, the back right brakedisk was all wet from the brake fluid and it was easy to see that one of the brake cups was all wet. After removing the caliper I popped open the dustseal and took out the cup. I say a small "whobble" in the seal around the cup so I think wrong installation is the problem. Only a pitty I installed it myself so I can only blame myself. Well that's that for now

    Groeten Peter

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