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  1. #1
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    Default Washing your Vette

    Of course I'm going to take extra great care of my Vette and that includes weekly washing (according to Richard Newton ). And of course, I'm more than willing to do this. But I have a couple of questions remaining on washing Corvettes.

    What do you suggest as far as the soap goes for washing a Vette? Something to clean the surface, yet isn't an irritant to the paint/Vette. What do you use?

    And as far as towels go to wash her, I'm guess 100% cotton towels?

    Thanks!

    TR

  2. #2
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    I use the Zaino car wash. As far as towels goes, I use Cannon Fielcrest 100% cotton towels. If you do use cotton, do the burn test to make sure they are 100% cotton or you will scratch your car

  3. #3
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    Okay, sounds good. Where can you get this? Do you order it online? And what's the burn test? Where did you get that towel? I'm willing to spend a lot of money for the care of my Vette. Whatever it takes.

    TR

  4. #4
    DetailingDude
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    Default Re: Washing your Vette

    This is my Washing Guide:

    Much of the damage I see on cars is self-inflicted wounds. 60% of the damage comes from washing and/or drying (30% from polishing/waxing and 10% misc.). Tool and product selection is as critical as the technique used.

    Firstly, choose a pH balanced car wash solution. When a car is washed in solution that has a pH level higher than 7 the solution can be stripping the oils out of your black trim. Once the oils are gone the plastic constricts and the trim turns white and/or dulls and/or fades. Lusso Auto Bathe pH7, P21S Total Auto Wash pH7.2, Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo pH7, Zaino Show Car Wash ph7.2 and Zymol Clear pH7.1. All are at or close to being pH balanced (University of Arkansas) all are pretty much in the acceptable range.

    Additionally, if your car has been properly maintained with wax you may not need to use a car wash solution at all. However, one advantage of some car wash solutions is that they can offer a little surface lubrication.

    Secondly, choose some sort of soft cloth like a 100% cotton towel or an ultra micro fiber towel. You can trim off the sewn edges or just be very alert of their inherent danger they possess of scratching your paint. I prefer the 100% cotton towels.

    Finally, move your car into a cool, shaded area. I suggest you wash either at night or early in the morning just make sure that it is in a shaded area (preferably not the shade of a tree unless it is the cast shadow and you are not directly under the tree). If you are doing some general paint maintenance afterward you might want to wash it at night.

    Step 1: Fill your wash bucket with luke-warm water then add your chosen car wash solution per mfr's instructions.

    Step 2: Saturate your car with a hose.

    Step 3: Dip your washing towel into the wash bucket and stir the solution. With your towel saturated wash the sides of your car first. Most everyone else says to start washing on the roof (because that is where the dirt particles are the smallest), but when you do that you are leaning on the sides of the car and grinding the largest particles of dirt on the paint into the paint so wash the sides where you would be leaning first.

    Tech Tip: When you wash just glide your towel across the surface and then rinse. Keep your towel completely soaked folding it to a clean area. I suggest a hand towel size.

    The washing should only be for getting rid of the stuff that happens in the daily grind of a commute. (Anything that has bonded with your paint should be addressed individually after you have dried the surface). You should not press down or scrub the surface. If there is anything that is adhering to the surface come back to it later with a problem-specific cleaner.

    Step 4: Rinse your car thoroughly.

    Step 5: Dump out your bucket and rinse upside down thoroughly. Or, if you have 2 wash buckets begin washing from the second one.

    Step 6: Begin washing from the top and work your way down. Be methodical by washing then rinsing each panel. Save the rear portion for last as that is where there is a gathering of several types of dirt.

    Note: You may notice that as you wash your car the bubbles in the car wash solution begin to disappear. This is because as the water cools the surface tension of water bubbles increases the bubbles pop. It doesnít mean that the solution is no longer being effective. The surficants are still present and are able to do their job.

    Step 7: Rinse your entire car again thoroughly.

    Maintain wax on your car. Good quality waxes will keep dirt from bonding with your paint. The importance of this is not only for protection against the elements but also for making the washing process easier.

  5. #5
    Member Corvette-Pilot's Avatar
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    Default

    Originally posted by Stallion
    Okay, sounds good. Where can you get this? Do you order it online? And what's the burn test? Where did you get that towel? I'm willing to spend a lot of money for the care of my Vette. Whatever it takes.

    TR
    http://fieldcrestcannonoutlet.site.y...rtow1stqu.html
    This place sells factory seconds and they are cheap.
    I bought a couple from them for my Vette and can't tell what the "seconds" are from??
    I ordered more for the house

    I think the burn test is to try and burn a small corner of the towel.
    If it has any poly/nylon in it, it will melt
    If it is all cotton it will burn.

    DetailingDude
    Isn't the theory on washing top down so that the dirt is washed away as you go. Where cleaning the bottom first meand the dirt from above will get washed down onto the cleaned bottom section? As well as getting all the heavy dirt into your towel and wash bucket before you get to the top??

    I understand what you are saying about leaning into the dirt as well.

    Just 2 opposite theories I guess

  6. #6
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    Thanks a lot, DetailingDude! I appreciate the guide. I will look up those wash solutions you suggested for the right pH balance. Then I will make a decision on what to get and come back to you guys. Thanks!

    TR

  7. #7
    DetailingDude
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    Originally posted by Corvette-Pilot
    http://fieldcrestcannonoutlet.site.y...rtow1stqu.html
    This place sells factory seconds and they are cheap.
    I bought a couple from them for my Vette and can't tell what the "seconds" are from??
    I ordered more for the house

    I think the burn test is to try and burn a small corner of the towel.
    If it has any poly/nylon in it, it will melt
    If it is all cotton it will burn.

    DetailingDude
    Isn't the theory on washing top down so that the dirt is washed away as you go. Where cleaning the bottom first meand the dirt from above will get washed down onto the cleaned bottom section? As well as getting all the heavy dirt into your towel and wash bucket before you get to the top??

    I understand what you are saying about leaning into the dirt as well.

    Just 2 opposite theories I guess
    I am going to have plenty of grapix on my website that illustrate the washing method. When you see them you will understand much better. It is so hard to explain on here without getting carpeltunnel or loosing the reader

  8. #8
    Member JonM's Avatar
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    Took me longer to read the instructions then it does to accually wash the car.

  9. #9
    DetailingDude
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    Originally posted by JonM
    Took me longer to read the instructions then it does to accually wash the car.
    They have Adult Education classes to help out with that!

  10. #10
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    Z-7 SHOW CAR WASH

    A concentrated blend of special cleaners, UV blockers and Show Car Polish that actually condition and enhance the gloss of painted vehicles. PH Balanced it does not contain detergent, alkalines or acids. Special water-based lubricant, prevents dirt from scratching the paint finish when washing. Unique foaming agents produce longer-lasting, dirt encapsulating suds. Rinses completely, leaving a non-spotting, non-filming, streak-free, just polished look. Z-7 Show Car Wash was designed to deep clean, increase the paint gloss and reinforce the Zaino Show Car Polish system with every washing.
    Is this what I want? This is Zaino, by the way. Have any of you used this? If not, what do you use and why?

    TR

  11. #11
    DetailingDude
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    Originally posted by Stallion
    Is this what I want? This is Zaino, by the way. Have any of you used this? If not, what do you use and why?

    TR
    Which ever system you use make sure you use their car wash solution as well. Most have integrated the wax and the wash so that they compliment each other like Zaino says in the description.

  12. #12
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    Yes, the definition does look like it wants you to use the polish, too. But, again, I don't think I want to polish her. Waxing would be fine, if it's not abbrasive. So what do you think I should do? Go with this Zaino wash and then get some Zaino wax for after the wash? That will be a good finish?

    Thanks!

    TR

  13. #13
    RubyDropTop
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    I have stated this before: Zaino is not a wax. Zaino is not a polish.

    Stallion, for an explanation of this, refer to your thread in regard to detailing your new car. Locate my response to GSDiva, it's right there.

  14. #14
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    Okay, so I think this will be it for the washing of the Vette...

    I'll use this Z-7 Show Car Wash (I don't understand why it's called a polish in the description when 1) its not abbrassive and 2) its just a soap wash ).



    TR

  15. #15
    DetailingDude
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    I put the final protective layer that has no abrasives into a category of wax. In that category there are Natural and Synthetic.

    A few of the synthetics are: Blackfire, Klasse, NuFinish (although it is reported to contain abrasives), Meguiar's (yes they have a synthetic wax too) and Zaino. (I always list in alpahbetical so Zaino always gets put there but that is not an order of quality).

    A few natural waxes are: Lusso, Meguiar's, Mothers, P21S, Pinnacle.

    Here is where the word "Polish" gets confusing:

    There is the act of polishing
    In this case the word polishing is interchangeable with buffing. It is the act of making something shine generally just a final buff with only a cloth.

    There is the act of applying a polish
    A product that contains wax and abrasives is called a polish. Not all car care product companies speak the same language so reading the lables is essential in product selection. Polishes typically leave behind some sort of coating.

    Zaino calls their product a polish
    Zaino has labled themselves as a polish although their products contain no abrasives so it strays from the previous industry term.

    Lusso calls their glass cleaner Glass Polish
    Lusso's liquid glass cleaner has no abrasives and is just a liquid that leaves no coating behind.

    And there's shoe polish
    Yet even more confusing is when a person puts on shoe polish they aren't actually putting an abrasive onto their shoes which leads back to Zaino calling their product a wax.

    It all gets a bit confusing which is why in my posts I always say "introduce your waxing system" and allow the reader to insert which ever company's waxing system they choose.

    I hope that this clears things up a bit...... and that you are still awake at this point.

    My head hurts! I'm going to go have a Polish Sausage!

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