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  • C5 Column Lock debunked
  • C5 Column Lock debunked
  • C5 Column Lock debunked
  • C5 Column Lock debunked

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  1. #16
    Member Phinstr's Avatar
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    Default Column Lock help

    I know....beat the dead horse but I have read through all the posts and I am still not clear....

    99 FRC (Manual).....I started getting the Service Column Lock message but never the Remove Key for 10 Seconds message....It does NOT appear that my column locks at all. I just got the car and cannot remember if it ever did lock when I shut it down. Battery is a Les Schwab 78XHD with 695CCR....it does NOT list RC. It is 1 year old. The car starts and drives down the road fine but we keep having to clear the DIC.

    Any ideas on what is going on. I dont know if the car has had any of the "fixes" listed but it seems to me that something was done to disable the column lock. OR could the problem be that the column lock plate was removed but the car thinks it is locked? I would think the fuel cutoff would have kicked in. My wife says this has been going on since yesterday. Of course, she hit the reset and ignored it. Hope she doesnt do that if the Oil pressure drops off.....hahahaha...really not that funny.

    any help would be greatly appreciated. I did watch the video and it was very informative

    Ed
    Phinstr
    1999 FRC

  2. #17
    Technical Advisor c4c5specialist's Avatar
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    HI there,

    If you have owned it since new, it may have had the column lock recall done. If that is the case, the relay in that recall may need to be removed.

    Also, too many technicians do NOT check the battery terminals and or the fastener tightening. 11 ft lbs is the torque specification on those terminals at the battery. If they are loose, or corroded, then problems could arise, even though the battery is perfect.

    So, with that, also checking to see if there is a column lock bypass is part of the diagnostics, as they can cause BCM failures.

    If you like, you can PM me your VIN and we can see what recalls were done to the vehicle.

    Allthebest, Paul
    GM World Class Certified Technician.
    Like us: www.facebook.com/corvettemechanic
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  3. #18
    Moderator Toms007's Avatar
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    Thank you Paul for checking in here. Your expertise is greatly appreciated.
    2007 Atomic Orange Coupe Cashmere/black interior

    2005 CruiseFest Attendee (Bowling Green, KY) 2007 CruiseFest Attendee (Colorado Springs, CO)
    2008 CruiseFest Attendee (Cleveland, OH)
    2010 Cruisefest Attendee(Effingham, IL)
    2011 CruiseFest Attendee(Effingham
    , IL)

    Formerly owned Corvettes: 1964 coupe, 1994 coupe, 2001 coupe


  4. #19
    Member Phinstr's Avatar
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    Default Vin Number

    Quote Originally Posted by c4c5specialist View Post
    HI there,

    If you have owned it since new, it may have had the column lock recall done. If that is the case, the relay in that recall may need to be removed.

    Also, too many technicians do NOT check the battery terminals and or the fastener tightening. 11 ft lbs is the torque specification on those terminals at the battery. If they are loose, or corroded, then problems could arise, even though the battery is perfect.

    So, with that, also checking to see if there is a column lock bypass is part of the diagnostics, as they can cause BCM failures.

    If you like, you can PM me your VIN and we can see what recalls were done to the vehicle.

    Allthebest, Paul


    Paul - Thanks for the help. Do you know if that battery I listed has the appropriate RC?
    Vin #: 1G1YY12G7X5122999

    I'll check the torque too

    Ed
    Phinstr
    1999 FRC

  5. #20
    Member Phinstr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c4c5specialist View Post
    HI there,

    If you have owned it since new, it may have had the column lock recall done. If that is the case, the relay in that recall may need to be removed.

    Also, too many technicians do NOT check the battery terminals and or the fastener tightening. 11 ft lbs is the torque specification on those terminals at the battery. If they are loose, or corroded, then problems could arise, even though the battery is perfect.

    So, with that, also checking to see if there is a column lock bypass is part of the diagnostics, as they can cause BCM failures.

    If you like, you can PM me your VIN and we can see what recalls were done to the vehicle.

    Allthebest, Paul
    At what point does the car tell me to remove the key for 10 seconds and only go 2mph? So far, no issues with how it runs or drives...

    Ed
    Phinstr
    1999 FRC

  6. #21
    C5 Column Lock debunked Vettelt193's Avatar
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    Just watched the video. Great info.

    I have a 98, the recall has been done. Car is an auto and the column doesn't lock anymore. I am currently getting Service Column Lock. Car has 90k miles and an Optima Red Top that was installed less than a year ago. The car was just driven on a 5 hour trip last Thursday, then I drove it to and from work Friday. My brother took it on Saturday, washed it, parked it in the Garage. Saturday afternoon he was going to take my son for a ride and this all started. I get the pull key message, then service column lock.

    So far we checked the fuses, pulled them, waited, and plugged them back in. I disconnected the battery, waited, and reconnected. Still no dice. I ordered the LCM5 last night but after seeing the video I'm not sure if I should install that or not based on the warnings.

    So... what next? I can put the car on a charger tonight and try it to see if it is a voltage issue but seeing as the car was just driven on a trip, recent battery, and has been a daily driver its whole life am I barking up the wrong tree?
    Last edited by Vettelt193; 08-26-13 at 08:33 AM.

  7. #22
    Moderator Toms007's Avatar
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    I would say, check the status of the battery first and verify that it has enough voltage as Paul talked about in the video. check the torque of the cables on the posts and check grounds. Sounds like battery to me.
    2007 Atomic Orange Coupe Cashmere/black interior

    2005 CruiseFest Attendee (Bowling Green, KY) 2007 CruiseFest Attendee (Colorado Springs, CO)
    2008 CruiseFest Attendee (Cleveland, OH)
    2010 Cruisefest Attendee(Effingham, IL)
    2011 CruiseFest Attendee(Effingham
    , IL)

    Formerly owned Corvettes: 1964 coupe, 1994 coupe, 2001 coupe


  8. #23
    C5 Column Lock debunked Vettelt193's Avatar
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    Any thoughts on what grounds to check?

  9. #24
    New Member C5Volzfan's Avatar
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    New problem. Some 3 years ago I found this site because of the standard CL problem. I had installed a Bypass, and after watching the vids, and exchanging some posts with C4C5specialist, removed it and cured the issue......until now. All this time (since removing the CLB) I could hear the "actuator" cycle whenever I turned the key on or off. Now, I no longer hear it...and I get the "Pull key, wait 10 seconds" message. Battery is a new (installed in June) Optima Red Top, and it stays on a Battery Maintainer when I'm not driving the car. I have already located, cleaned and reattached the grounds in the footwells. The car is always okay after I pull the key, and restart. I only get the message once (so far!).

    Do I have a bad actuator? I understand there is a microswitch it must make to tell the BCM that the pin has been retracted. Bad switch? Column does not lock (never has), and I removed the relay installed when the recall was done, per C4C5specialist instructions when I had the first problem.

    Any ideas? We are planning on going to the Rolex in January, and it's a long way from Tennessee to Daytona...I need to fix this soon. Thanks in advance for any help.

  10. #25
    Technical Writer for Internet & Print Media
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    I'd test the battery before I do anything else. Optima Red Tops are quite overrated and most SCL problems are battery voltage related.

    Find a shop which can do a load test. If the battery passes, then focus on other causes.

  11. #26
    Technical Advisor c4c5specialist's Avatar
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    HI there,

    First off, the only way to clear that message is to remove the negative battery cable for 5 mins and then reinstall and torque to 11 ft lbs.

    After you do that, reevaluate the condition and as HIB said, TEST your battery. You need at least 12.5 volts and 500 CCA.

    Also, what is your voltage on the DIC BEFORE you start the car???

    Allthebest, PAUL
    GM World Class Certified Technician.
    Like us: www.facebook.com/corvettemechanic
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    Podcast: Itunes, search 'the corvette mechanic'

  12. #27
    Moderator Toms007's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul and Hib for stepping in here to help Volzfan. I hope he can rectify his issue.
    2007 Atomic Orange Coupe Cashmere/black interior

    2005 CruiseFest Attendee (Bowling Green, KY) 2007 CruiseFest Attendee (Colorado Springs, CO)
    2008 CruiseFest Attendee (Cleveland, OH)
    2010 Cruisefest Attendee(Effingham, IL)
    2011 CruiseFest Attendee(Effingham
    , IL)

    Formerly owned Corvettes: 1964 coupe, 1994 coupe, 2001 coupe


  13. #28
    New Member C5Volzfan's Avatar
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    Sorry for the delay in responding.....I'm out of town for the holiday. I will follow these suggestions to the letter when I get back home (and the weather lets me out of the garage!). Thanks for the help, guys. I'm sure we'll get this solved!

  14. #29
    New Member gibby10's Avatar
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    I had the recall done on my car as well. I drove it 14hrs to Missouri, drove around my hometown in Missouri then drove back. Got to West Virginia stopped for about an hour at a rest area. Got back in my car got the same message on the dic. So I did the same trouble shooting if fuses and disconnect the battery still no dice. I was about 5hrs from home with no dealership around. So I dropped the knee bolster and and checked the relay (from the recall fix) tapped on it and tried again, still same message. So I just unhooked the the relay and plugged it back in how it was before the steering lock recall. Started right up and drove fine. Been that way ever since. Hopes this helps


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #30
    New Member C5Volzfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c4c5specialist View Post
    HI there,

    First off, the only way to clear that message is to remove the negative battery cable for 5 mins and then reinstall and torque to 11 ft lbs.

    After you do that, reevaluate the condition and as HIB said, TEST your battery. You need at least 12.5 volts and 500 CCA.

    Also, what is your voltage on the DIC BEFORE you start the car???

    Allthebest, PAUL
    Okay, finally the weather and my work schedule cooperated. The car was on a "battery maintainer", so I took that off, and disconnected the neg. cable for 5 mins and reconnected. After that, the battery showed 12.7 V on my multimeter. I then started the car (no message) and went to a local Advance Auto (same store where I purchased the Optima battery back in June). They tested the battery and the charging system with their tester and it passed all tests. At that point, it showed only 12.39 Volts, but 854CCA. Load test showed okay he said, but the readout looks to me like the min/max was about 9.5 to 12.3. Although they said the battery was good, their tester did say it needed to be charged.

    After that, started the car a couple times, and then started and drove home......all with no messages and no problem. As I said initially, this has been an intermittent problem anyway......so I don't want a false sense of security. Does this info tell you anything at all? And, I still do not hear the "actuator" cycle any more. For 3 years, I heard it every time I turned the key on or off. Does this mean anything?

    Thanks again for all help!

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