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  1. #1
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    Default radio /fuse link

    I think I have found the fuse link that I fried. The replacement is a link where you can put a regular fuse in it.

    I hooked it up with a 10 amp fuse and it blew.

    what size of fuse would be equal to the link that runs the radio,power seats and the door locks. The red wire I spliced into was 5 red/2 in the FSM.

    It looks like I need a 30 amp. thought I would get some feedback pretty quick before I put the fuse in.

    Thanks.

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    Member Schrade's Avatar
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    There should be a fuse block key label inside the fuse block cover.

    Do NOT put a too high-amp rated fuse in the wrong place. If you ever decide to do that, pick a bag of marshmallows and a LONG stick on the way home...


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    Quote Originally Posted by Schrade View Post
    There should be a fuse block key label inside the fuse block cover.

    Do NOT put a too high-amp rated fuse in the wrong place. If you ever decide to do that, pick a bag of marshmallows and a LONG stick on the way home...





    right now I am so mad , I am about ready to push it out in the street and have a weenie roast.

    I put a 25 amp in and it didn't blow, But I still don"t have power to the seats,door locks or the constant 12 volts to the radio. Everything else works. I have looked at the FSM and I can't figure out where the breakdown is.

    where is the common denominator for these items .

    They all worked until the damn starter went out.

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    Member Schrade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlg View Post
    I think I have found the fuse link that I fried. The replacement is a link where you can put a regular fuse in it.

    I hooked it up with a 10 amp fuse and it blew.

    what size of fuse would be equal to the link that runs the radio,power seats and the door locks. The red wire I spliced into was 5 red/2 in the FSM.

    It looks like I need a 30 amp. thought I would get some feedback pretty quick before I put the fuse in.

    Thanks.
    No fuse should blow with everything off, even if you put a 5A in a 30A circuit.

    Exactly what is wrong right now? I'm not knowing where this picks up from another thread?

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    Member G Winter's Avatar
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    Did you check the ground for the radio ?
    Also somehow the radio is dependent on the wiper fuse.

    Glenn

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    Quote Originally Posted by Schrade View Post
    No fuse should blow with everything off, even if you put a 5A in a 30A circuit.

    Exactly what is wrong right now? I'm not knowing where this picks up from another thread?
    It didn't blow until I turned on the key, replaced with a 25 and it was fine.

    Problem still exist. I don't have 12 volts constant power through the 10 amp radio fuse. I checked the volts at the fuse and it is 9.5.

    the power seats,door locks don't work, but did before starter replacement.

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    Member Schrade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlg View Post
    It didn't blow until I turned on the key, replaced with a 25 and it was fine.

    Problem still exist. I don't have 12 volts constant power through the 10 amp radio fuse. I checked the volts at the fuse and it is 9.5.

    the power seats,door locks don't work, but did before starter replacement.
    You need to pull that fuse - NOW!!!

    No fuse will blow if everything is off, and you turn on the key, unless something is wrong. Even if you put a 5A fuse in a 30A circuit, it won't blow till you turn on the device, NOT THE KEY.

    First try this: Pull the power connector to the device that's on the fuse that blows (you haven't said what fuse it is that blows?). Then stick in another fuse, whatever spec calls for, and turn the key.

    If a fuse blows when you turn on the key, and the device is off, then the circuit DOWNcurrent of the fuse is grounded to frame somewhere, and it is grounded BETWEEN the fuse and the device.

    Pull the fuse that burns. Put your (+) probe multimeter into one side of the fuse socket, and ground the other probe on the frame/metal body part, key off. One of the sockets will show power ONLY with the key ON. The other has the short to ground, and that's the one you have to follow - literally. Volume 2 FSM end of book will tell you where the harness with that circuit/line goes to from the fuse block.

    Get some jumper cables (you need only one line of the cables), connect one end to the (+) Batt terminal, put the (-) multimeter probe in the other end of the SAME cable clamp. Put the (+) multimeter probe into the socket that you have to follow, key still off, device for that fuse off too. It is supposed to show no current, but it will, since it's popping the fuse. Follow that harness, and test at each point, to find out where it no longer grounds out current.

    This is the only totally methodical way to find the short, without accidentally finding a pinched or chafed lead...

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    when the starter went out and I caused it to arch the 25 amp fuse to the wipers blew. It's fine now, but I lost power to the seats,radio and door locks. I pulled the fender and found what I thought was a fusible link fried, the insulation was peeling off. I went to the parts store and bought a link that holds the standard fuse, i put in a 25 and it blew, I put in a 30 just a minute ago and it fries, All of this happens when I turn the key, None of the fuse block fuses are failing.

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    the fusible link I replaced is the largest red wire in the harness that has 4 red wires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rlg View Post
    the fusible link I replaced is the largest red wire in the harness that has 4 red wires.
    any fuse I put in blows as soon as the car is started, now the ABS light blinks.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by G Winter View Post
    Did you check the ground for the radio ?
    Also somehow the radio is dependent on the wiper fuse.

    Glenn

    Glenn

    when I put the constant 12 volts which doesn't work with the switched which does the radio works fine, so I figured the ground was ok.

    Bob

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