• Special Tool for Intake Plenum Torx Bolts?
  • Special Tool for Intake Plenum Torx Bolts?
  • Special Tool for Intake Plenum Torx Bolts?
  • Special Tool for Intake Plenum Torx Bolts?

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  1. #1
    Member chevyaddict's Avatar
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    Default Special Tool for Intake Plenum Torx Bolts?

    Hi All;
    I've run into a snag removing the fuel injection intake plenum on my 90. The bottom part of the plenum that bolts to the heads.... there isn't enough room for a regular torx socket to fit in there it seems. Is there a special tool to purchase to get in there? Anyone have any advice? I have a blown head gasket so I'm having to remove everything to replace the gaskets. Thanks!
    Dawn

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    On the L98 you have to remove the plenum and runners to remove the intake bolts. Thats the way GM assembled it and thats the way your going to dissemble it.

    Quote Originally Posted by chevyaddict View Post
    Hi All;
    I've run into a snag removing the fuel injection intake plenum on my 90. The bottom part of the plenum that bolts to the heads.... there isn't enough room for a regular torx socket to fit in there it seems. Is there a special tool to purchase to get in there? Anyone have any advice? I have a blown head gasket so I'm having to remove everything to replace the gaskets. Thanks!

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    Ok, thanks for these two suggestions.... let me go back out there and fiddle and see if those will work!
    Dawn

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    I remember that... arghhh.

    I had the torx socket, but reaching it was another issue. The socket was 3/8" drive, but the 8" x 3/8" drive extension was too much. I picked up a 1/4" - 3/8" adapter, plugged that into the torx socket, put an 8" x 1/4"drive extension behind that, then adapter back to 3/8" drive, and got spinnin' CAREFULLY.

    All that for the rear passenger side runner bolt (that you had to get from the drivers side UGH).

    Make sure the bolt doesn't have any grease jam in it, and seat the torx GOOD. You strip that, and you're gonna' cry before you finish up - promise uh huh!

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    I have a special tool for that I bought it from the MAC tool truck it works great.

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    Well.... I didn't even get there. I was trying to take the fuel rails off and there are two torx bolts that hold it to the manifold where the fuel lines go in and one is stripped.... WONDERFUL. I'm not sure there is enough room to drill it either so I'm kind of dead in the water until I figure out how I'm going to get this &%$#@!$% bolt out. GRRRRRRR

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    Quote Originally Posted by chevyaddict View Post
    Well.... I didn't even get there. I was trying to take the fuel rails off and there are two torx bolts that hold it to the manifold where the fuel lines go in and one is stripped.... WONDERFUL. I'm not sure there is enough room to drill it either so I'm kind of dead in the water until I figure out how I'm going to get this &%$#@!$% bolt out. GRRRRRRR
    I have not worked on a TPI for about 10 years so I can't visualize what you are talking about can you post a picture.
    Do you have room to weld a nut on top then use a socket on it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Bart View Post
    I have not worked on a TPI for about 10 years so I can't visualize what you are talking about can you post a picture.
    Do you have room to weld a nut on top then use a socket on it.
    I don't have the ability to weld so that won't work. Gonna try a screw extractor on it if I can make room for the drill. Fun fun.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by chevyaddict View Post
    I don't have the ability to weld so that won't work. Gonna try a screw extractor on it if I can make room for the drill. Fun fun.....
    Sounds like you may need to seek professional help. Don't screw it up to the point that it will cost you much more to have it removed.
    Like I said I don't remember what it looks like but if it is a hex bolt Sears has a bolt rounded head remover kit that works great but if it is a button head then welding will probably be the best bet.

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    Its the hex bolt which should work great with the extractor... Its the two hex bolts that actually go in to the manifold on the front where the fuel lines come from the tank and screw into the fuel rails. Why the thing is so tight is beyond me when its just holding the lines. As long as I can get the drill in there without it hitting the radiator or something else it should be pretty easy. Wish me luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by chevyaddict View Post
    Its the hex bolt which should work great with the extractor... Its the two hex bolts that actually go in to the manifold on the front where the fuel lines come from the tank and screw into the fuel rails. Why the thing is so tight is beyond me when its just holding the lines. As long as I can get the drill in there without it hitting the radiator or something else it should be pretty easy. Wish me luck!
    If it was put in aluminum without anti-seize it will corrode and won't come out. GOOD LUCK WITH IT.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Bart View Post
    If it was put in aluminum without anti-seize it will corrode and won't come out. GOOD LUCK WITH IT.
    That is what I'm afraid of actually. If that is the case then I can cut the bracket, as two bolts hold this piece in which really isn't necessary for its function so I have a backup plan. This is just a pain because this is a MONSTER JOB as it is and each hurdle just makes it that much more of a pain in the BUTT!

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    This brings back memories.
    I had a couple plenum bolts that wouldn't come out also. I used a small angle grinder to cut a nice big slot across the head of the bolt. I then put a dull bit in a short throw pneumatic chisel and came into the slot at an angle to turn the bolt. Between the counter clockwise force and shock from the chisel the bolts loosened right up.
    Good luck with your project.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chevyaddict View Post
    If that is the case then I can cut the bracket, as two bolts hold this piece in which really isn't necessary for its function so I have a backup plan.
    they are not essential supports
    For replacement intake bolts just go to any good fastener supplier and get UNC cap screws ( allen head ) bolts of the required lenght

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    HI there,
    SK 42590 is a T40, that is about 4 inches long.
    You can also get a similar tool from Snapon/MATCO/MAC.
    SK Hand Tools: Professional Tools Since 1921
    As far as the fuel rail bolts, once you drill the head off, you should be fine.
    You best move would be a left handed drill bit, as once the head comes off, most of the tension is released so the rest usually comes out.
    Keep the faith, you can do this.
    Allthebest, c4c5

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