• Rebuilt my LT1 and need answers. please
  • Rebuilt my LT1 and need answers. please
  • Rebuilt my LT1 and need answers. please
  • Rebuilt my LT1 and need answers. please

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  1. #16
    Member Schrade's Avatar
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    I'd get my hands on a hardwire interface for your laptop, and some scan software (the free versions first), and see what kind of numbers are passin' through the burn / log data.

    Then get a version that lets you 'write' to the PCM, and do a real tune. It won't be easy, unless the parts that you bought were a complete package, and there are reference/baseline numbers to start with.

    Otherwise, you'll have to use the stock LT1 numbers that the FSM gives, and go from there...

    In the meantime, go to a speed shop, and get a log printout NOW, and call the parts supplier that you got the parts from, and get a copy to them for feedback.

  2. #17
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    There are no "free" scan test software applications that support 82-93 engine controls. In fact, there are only a few scan test apps you can buy that support an ECM that old. The best of them is TTS Datamaster from TTS Specialties.

    You cannot "write" to the calibration software in a 93 ECM. 93s use a "chip" and the hardware and software necessary to change the programming in the chip, while avaiable to DIYs, is expensive.

    Your choices here are:
    1) Buy the equipment and "burn" your own chip--I'd not advise that unless a) you're rich and b) you've got experience tunning on a chassis dyno.
    2) Buy an aftermarket calibration designed for a modified LT1
    3) Hire a tuner to custom-tune a chip for your engine using a chassis dyno.

  3. #18
    Member EmsFather's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hib Halverson View Post
    There are no "free" scan test software applications that support 82-93 engine controls. In fact, there are only a few scan test apps you can buy that support an ECM that old. The best of them is TTS Datamaster from TTS Specialties.

    You cannot "write" to the calibration software in a 93 ECM. 93s use a "chip" and the hardware and software necessary to change the programming in the chip, while avaiable to DIYs, is expensive.

    Your choices here are:
    1) Buy the equipment and "burn" your own chip--I'd not advise that unless a) you're rich and b) you've got experience tunning on a chassis dyno.
    2) Buy an aftermarket calibration designed for a modified LT1
    3) Hire a tuner to custom-tune a chip for your engine using a chassis dyno.
    I believe that I did the second option when I sent out the specs on the car about 6 weeks ago. The place I got it from took every new spec of the engine and with all of that, burned the chip that now sits with the stock PROM. The sheet I had my friend / mechanic turn in, was a very thorough sheet, filled with all the new and old specs on the car, from the top of the motor to the rear end, which was a 3:45. When they pulled the Hypertech chip out and put back in the stock PROm, the car came to life in a big way. It now pulls through all the way through.

  4. #19
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    Sounds like the new cal you got is pretty close.

  5. #20
    Member Schrade's Avatar
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    Sounds like the shop already did what I was suggesting (except for burning a new chip)...

    Otherwise, you'll have to use the stock LT1 numbers that the FSM gives, and go from there...

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