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  1. #1
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    Default ok here we go again

    ok so i have my 4+3 working perfectly (I ONlY USE OD IN 4TH GEAR) The overdrive isnt the prob here (at least i dont think) I think my prob is in the t10 4spd, when its cold I always shift 1-3, I skip over 2 becasue when cold it sometimes grinds when i try to shift into 2cd. my question is, how come sometimes it takes longer for the syncros to warm up than others? sometimes just riding around town I can start shifting into 2cd within minutes and others i can ride around for a half hour and still feel a slight grind when I shift into 2cd? does this sound like a clutch issue or just the syncros becomming more worn? I only typically put 30-50 miles a week on the car.

  2. #2
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    I would be picking the syncros first as problem.
    Clutch problems with 4+3 usually show up first as hard to engage / disengage reverse.

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  3. #3
    Member G Winter's Avatar
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    I would think you would have more problems shifting from 1 to 3 when it is cold than the 1 to 2. I would suspect warn syncro.
    How well does it shift into 4th?

    Glenn

  4. #4
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    all gears are fine when cold except 2cd...I noticed when downshifting it takes more force to downshift into 1st when cold, but no grinding of anykind..the only grinding i've seen is 2cd mainly when cold but some times even when warm I can feel threw the shifter (not even enough to hear it) a VERY slight grind..but thats occasionally, most of the time it shifts nicely as soon as it warms up..my boss told me that his ferrari used to do the same thing.. if it is the syncro how long can i drive it like that with out haveing to rebuild the trans?

  5. #5
    MBDiagMan
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    The first thing you need to do is make sure the clutch is full of fluid and properly bled. You should check this first thing ANY time you have a shifting issue.

    If it is synchro's it's not a big deal. They're not expensive and it is straight forward work to put brass in most any manual transmission. In the case of the 4+3 it's a little tougher to pull the transmission, but not bad as long as you are equipped for it. If you have an overhead crane to support the engine, and a transmission jack it's not that tough.

    Also, you need to make sure that the transmission (four speed portion) is full of lubricant.

    Good luck,

  6. #6
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    what can i expect to pay for this to be done?

  7. #7
    MBDiagMan
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    You can check the fluid yourself by unscrewing the top of the clutch fluid reservoir. It is a white reservoir with a black, screw on cap. It is on the firewall on the far left (drivers) side.

    If it is full or even half full of fluid, then the clutch hydraulics are probably okay. If it is very near empty, THEN you need check for leaks and bleed the clutch. This should not be too big of a job. Most shops could do it in a half hour or so. At a $100 shop rate, that's $50. Most shops have a cheaper shop rate than that.

    If it has lost fluid the master cylinder, slave cylinder and hose should be checked. Since Detroit has designed everything primarily for an automatic transmission for 30 or 40 years, the clutch hose is an afterthought. It is located VERY near one of the light off converters so it is subjected to LOTS of heat. For this reason it should be inspected often. I give mine a look at every oil change. I replaced it once at about 100,000 miles.

    To lengthen clutch hydraulic component life, and brake hydraulic life for that matter, flush the fluid no longer than every two years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture. Over time the moisture causes corrosion of hydraulic components. These cars have EXPENSIVE calipers and the brake cylinders aren't cheap, so learn to flush and bleed your clutch and brakes and keep fresh fluid in them.

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