• C4 (1992) Rear Hatch Weatherstripping
  • C4 (1992) Rear Hatch Weatherstripping
  • C4 (1992) Rear Hatch Weatherstripping
  • C4 (1992) Rear Hatch Weatherstripping

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  1. #1
    Member timotheous's Avatar
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    Default C4 (1992) Rear Hatch Weatherstripping

    After several years of worrying about it, not knowing for sure what it involves, I finally replaced the rear hatch weatherstripping this weekend. I thought those in a similar position (ie worried about the job) might appreciate a little post-mortem:

    1. Got the part from Ecklers ($99) - they are always good with shipping, product, etc. (in my experience anyway).
    2. Removed the rear hatch trim, both side trim panels, and all screws on roof trim (there was some question in my mind as to whether or not this would be necessary but it was).
    3. Popped out struts easily - they pry off easily using a screw driver against the small retaining clip - NO NEED to use a wrench or take anything apart - they pop in and out very easily (I supported the glass using bungy cords hooked to the roof of the garage).
    4. Popped out rear courtesy light panel and fixture as there is a screw holding trim panels that you can only get at this way.
    5. Once all of the necessary trim was removed or loosened (as per the roof trim), I took out the old weatherstripping easily. I then cleaned the mess left behind with paper towels and a bit of varsol (doesn't hurt the paint, just wash it off afterward).

    6. This is the BIG ONE - To GLUE or not to GLUE? Definitely, without a doubt, you do NOT need glue for this job. Briefly, the weatherstripping consists of two pieces - rubber and plastic. The rubber is glued to a plastic frame that has a channel containing the same kind of greasy substance as was there from the factory. Once you start pressing it in, you'll see it and feel it coming together with the frame of the car. All you have to do is work it in from the center outward and that's all there is to it. I think they use this grease rather than glue to allow some natural flex (prevent ripping) and to ensure a water seal through the channel.

    In sum, you should definitely tackle this job if your weatherstripping is shot. It's not hard at all. Kind of messy cleaning up from the old weatherstripping, but no problem putting the new one in. Supplies needed: Screwdriver, paper towels, varsol, and confidence.

  2. #2
    Member LT4man's Avatar
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    Congratulations on a job well done! You forgot to list one thing I am sure you did: take your time & be patient!

    WHILE YOU ARE ENJOYING YOUR NEW HATCH WEATHERSTRIPPING, DO NOT FORGET TO SAVE THE !
    An attendee at all the CruiseFests including the one which never happened.


    Autosig (Shadow) A

  3. #3
    Member timotheous's Avatar
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    Good point, it did require some patience for sure. Gotta admit though, one of the most enjoyable days I've had lately. Nothing better than working on the vette and finishing the job with success!

  4. #4
    Member LT4man's Avatar
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    As a point of information for anyone else reading this thread: Be sure to keep all your weatherstrips treated with some type of lubricant. On the rear cargo hatch, especially the two (2) corners. The corners, with lack of lubricant, will easily rip within a year. Every time you close the hatch, the glass pulls on the corner of the weatherstripping.

    All C4 weatherstripping is suspect. GM weatherstripping is the best and still does not last very long.

    DO NOT FORGET TO SAVE THE !
    An attendee at all the CruiseFests including the one which never happened.


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  5. #5
    Member ZumZum's Avatar
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    What kind of lubricant do you recommend?

  6. #6
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    The best is Krytox! That is what I use to save the weatherstripping! It is expensive, but it is DuPont and it WORKS! They sell it at Ecklers...($45)

    If you go to my car site (link below) you can see a pick near the bottom of the page. I would not reccomend something if I did not think it was a great product! As they say, you get what you pay for.


  7. #7
    Member LT4man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZumZum View Post
    What kind of lubricant do you recommend?
    The stuff that GM sells and MAM sells is pretty good and much cheaper than the Krytox. MAM sells three (3) tubes at a time. A little bit goes a long way. I apply it with rubber gloves on my hands. Let it dry overnight and then take excess off before closing doors or reinstalling roof panel.

    Hope this helps!

    AFTER LUBRICATING YOUR WEATHERSTRIPS, PLEASE DO NOT FORGET TO SAVE THE !
    An attendee at all the CruiseFests including the one which never happened.


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  8. #8
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    I use spray silicone lubricant 2x a year, is this ok.

  9. #9
    Member Schrade's Avatar
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    Wow.

    I did my '87 many years ago, and didn't pull a thing, except one strut at a time, to get the strippin' behind it (with a 2x4 supporting the hatch). Cleaning the lip of the old adhesive jam was the hard part...

    I did a dry fit, and decided not to use adhesive since it was so tight on the lip.

    On my '94, my strippin' was cracked and wrinkled, and it doesn't leak. So I got a 4" wide roll of vinyl electrical tape, and taped over the b-pillar, and roof end sections. The first roof section I re-did, cause I didn't cut the end right. But the rest I tucked the edges and ends under the lips with a plastic spoon, and it looks like brand new strippin'.

    They have this stuff up to 49" wide (white), and 6" (red).
    http://www.thetapedepot.com/cart/com...page/Itemid,1/

  10. #10
    Member LT4man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by air1jpg View Post
    I use spray silicone lubricant 2x a year, is this ok.
    I believe you are OK. I remember someone saying once that a certain ingredient in some silicones is not good, but I do not remember the particulars. Maybe someone else can chime in.

    PLEASE SAVE THE !
    An attendee at all the CruiseFests including the one which never happened.


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