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  1. #1
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    Default Power Wire to Dash Lights? Maybe?...

    It's been a slow and arduous work in progress, but I am almost done with the dash install. However, I still can't get the grey-wired dash lights to work. I spent all winter replacing and repairing these wires. All the connections are good, bulbs are brand new, and the ground wires are all connected. I'm assuming that the console is grounded since the clock works.

    Also, the courtesy lights don't work, but the rear interior lamp works fine. I recall reading somewhere that the grey dash wires are all fed by one wire, and it's unclear to me on the wiring diagram.

    Which wire is it?

    I checked out all the fuses - they're ok. So now I'm tracing back... any suggestions?

    Thank you.

    Ralph
    1969 Corvette Tri-Power Convertible (build date December 16, 1968),
    L-68 427, 400 hp (3963512 block; 3964290 heads), Muncie M-21, Monza Red, Black Top & Black Interior. VB&P Gymkhana 550 lbs/inch coil springs, Bilstein Sport shocks.
    In progress... full body-off restoration.

    1972 Camaro Z-28, Rally Sport, Cranberry Red/Black Stripes.
    LS-6 454/425, Muncie M-21, 9.8:1 CR, Lunati 60204 Voodoo Cam (Dur 276/284, Lift .554/.572), Holley 3310-3 (750 CFM), Weiand 8019 Stealth Intake, 3.73:1 Rear, Flowtech Headers 1.75" Primaries, Chambered Tube Exhaust, Custom Works GT Coil Springs, Hotchkis Sport Shocks.




  2. #2
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    Default

    Check the dimmer rhoestat, if you have the dash apart, ground the black wire of a voltmeter, and touch the red wire anywhere on the rhoestat coil, you can see it on the light switch, with the light switch pulled out, you should see some voltage on the rhoestat. There is then a dark green wire goes from the switch to the fuse box. Then in the fuse box, through the five amp instrument lights fuse, then straight to a grey wire to the cluster lamps.
    There is one large splice where the grey wires to each lamp, and one to the center cluster split off, then the instruments are all grounded by individual black wires, which splice together, and then go to ground on the lr=eft hinge pillar above the courtesy light.
    The dome and courtesy lights are all on their own circuit, and are switched by the pillar switches, and the light switch, and may or may not go through a delay unit. If the dome light works, the courtesy lights should work also. They go to ground via the switches through white wires, and voltage through the orange wires.

    Hope this is of some help.

    Cheers

    Richard

  3. #3
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    Default

    Richard,

    Thank you so much for the info. This is electrical puzzle has become quite a nightmare. Not to mention, it is also running terribly .... but that's another chapter!

    Quote Originally Posted by yellow77 View Post
    "...Check the dimmer rhoestat, if you have the dash apart, ground the black wire of a voltmeter, and touch the red wire anywhere on the rhoestat coil, you can see it on the light switch, with the light switch pulled out, you should see some voltage on the rhoestat..."
    I checked the headlamp swtich and rheostat as you suggested, and confirmed there is power, and is also being fed from the red wire to the green wire.


    Quote Originally Posted by yellow77 View Post
    "...There is then a dark green wire goes from the switch to the fuse box. Then in the fuse box, through the five amp instrument lights fuse, then straight to a grey wire to the cluster lamps..."
    Does the green wire (from the headlamp switch) go to the back of the fuse block? If so, is the "lead" grey wire also connected to the back of the fuse box (?) I didn;t find it. Of course, there's not much space under there, I guess I'll have to look closer.

    Quote Originally Posted by yellow77 View Post
    "...one large splice where the grey wires to each lamp, and one to the center cluster split off, then the instruments are all grounded by individual black wires, which splice together, and then go to ground on the lr=eft hinge pillar above the courtesy light.."
    Are the grey wire splices and ground wire part of the harness and contained inside the wrapped plastic - or is there block connector or something?

    Quote Originally Posted by yellow77 View Post
    "...The dome and courtesy lights are all on their own circuit, and are switched by the pillar switches..."
    I got the courtesy light to work. It turned out that I simply used the wrong type of bulb! At this stage, I'm grateful for these small successes! Thanks again...

    Ralph
    1969 Corvette Tri-Power Convertible (build date December 16, 1968),
    L-68 427, 400 hp (3963512 block; 3964290 heads), Muncie M-21, Monza Red, Black Top & Black Interior. VB&P Gymkhana 550 lbs/inch coil springs, Bilstein Sport shocks.
    In progress... full body-off restoration.

    1972 Camaro Z-28, Rally Sport, Cranberry Red/Black Stripes.
    LS-6 454/425, Muncie M-21, 9.8:1 CR, Lunati 60204 Voodoo Cam (Dur 276/284, Lift .554/.572), Holley 3310-3 (750 CFM), Weiand 8019 Stealth Intake, 3.73:1 Rear, Flowtech Headers 1.75" Primaries, Chambered Tube Exhaust, Custom Works GT Coil Springs, Hotchkis Sport Shocks.




  4. #4
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    The dark green and grey wires should be at the back of the fuse block very close to the back of the instrument fuse. Unfortunately the splices are hidden in the taped looms. Sorry about the short reply, I am away on vacation and can only surf on the phone.

    Cheers

    Richard

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by yellow77 View Post
    The dark green and grey wires should be at the back of the fuse block very close to the back of the instrument fuse. Unfortunately the splices are hidden in the taped looms. Sorry about the short reply, I am away on vacation and can only surf on the phone.

    Cheers

    Richard
    Richard,

    I really your replies and helpful info... enjoy your vacation!

    Ralph

  6. #6
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    Ralph,
    Where are you at regarding the panel lightts?

    Cheers

    Richard

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by yellow77 View Post
    Ralph,
    Where are you at regarding the panel lightts?

    Cheers

    Richard
    Fixed yesterday! The problem was behind the fuse box as suspected.

    It was a real treat to see all the gauge faces light up at night - this is the first time they've functioned and lit up since I've owned her.

    Thank you again for your help!

    Ralph

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