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Thread: Bleeding brakes

  1. #1
    Little red 69
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    Has anyone used or heard of anyone using "Speed Bleeder brake bleeder valves". They look like they could be handy and I'm thinking of trying them out but I don't know of anyone using them.

    Keep on waving!!!
    Donnie

  2. #2
    Administrator Yoda's Avatar
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    Donnie,

    I've never used them and haven't talked to anyone that has either.. So I not much help, but I'm sure someone here has, probably Stingray6974, or ssvett will be able to help you.

    Hang in there help is on the way

    BudD

  3. #3
    ssvett
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    Nope, Sorry, I have never used any or talked to any one who has either. I'm just too stuck with doing thing the old way I guess. I have, however seen a schematic of them and just to be honest I really didn't understand them. Maybe I will take another look. My curiosity is up now......Steve

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    Senior Member JHL's Avatar
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    LittleRed,

    The best way to do it properly is to buy or borrow a vacuum pump. I have an aluminium one but you can get cheaper plastic ones. It can be used either to pressurise the master cylinder and then open the bleed screws or you can attach the hose to the bleed screw and suck out all the air.

    It is also usfull for a number of other functions such as checking any vacuum operated componants, for example you can use it to check the vac advance mechanism in your distributor.

    Ihave tried these "speed bleed" screws before and thought they were more bother than they were worth.

    Steve,
    They are a small ball valve by the looks of things. A spring holds the ball in place and as you apply pressure to the brake pedal the fluid pressure forces the ball off it`s seat allowing the release of the fluid into your jar. When you lift off the pedal the spring forces the ball back onto the seat and hopefully stops air getting back into the lines.

    I have seen these pumps in the Eckler catalog but I am sure you would be able to buy one at any good parts shop.

    I hope this is of some help

    J.

    [Edited by JHL on 01-07-2001 at 04:59 PM]

  5. #5
    Little red 69
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    Thanks JHL,
    I think I'm going to get one of thoes vacuum pumps and try bleeding that way, I have heard of people having good luck with them. I'm going to have to bleed my brakes before I get back on the road, but I'm going to wait untill warmer weather gets here, if I can!

    Donnie

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    Senior Member JHL's Avatar
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    Donnie,

    It`s the best way especially with a vette having 4 piston calipers there are a lot of nooks & cranies that can trap air. When I did mine even with the pump I had to do it 3 times for it to be right. But I had just rebuilt the fronts and replaced some pipes so I had a lot of air in the system.

    Do the older cars have two bleed screws on the rear calipers ??? if so you can fix some tube to a y-piece and bleed both sides of the caliper at once to save a bit of time.

    One other thing that I was told a while back by a mechanic is to suck as much air out as possible and then leave all the bleed screws very slightly open for a couple of hours and eventualy all the air seeps out. I have never tried this but it sounds reasonable.

    One other tip, if you bleed from the calipers loosen the master cylinder lid so as not to create a vacuum when you are bleeding the calipers.

    J.

  7. #7
    john73bb
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    I have used the speed bleeders with great success. I didn't like the vacuum pump because you can suck air in around the seals, and it can be kind of difficult to do with the dual bleeder calibpers. I installed all 6 speed bleeders, and with a clear hose so I could see the bubbles I had my son pump the breaks till no more bubbles were visible on each bleeder. That was it, the job took about 15 minutes.

    I highly recommend them!

  8. #8
    Administrator Tom Bryant's Avatar
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    Default bleeders

    I have considered the self bleeders and also the vacuum pump. The pump is appealing as it is a one man opperation. I would think that you would need to see the bleeders to know when the bubbles were gone.
    NCRS 1360.............SACC 2082.............C1 Registry..............L81 Registry
    1959 Chevrolet Corvette 1981 Chevrolet Corvette , 350 L81 automatic Frost Beige

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    Senior Member JHL's Avatar
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    John73bb,

    One thing I didnt mention was that I do almost all the work on my car myself and this was the main problem with the speed beeders it required two people and this was the reason I used the pump. I would guess that the best way to use it would be to pressurise the master cylinder but the one I have is sold in England and did`nt come with the correct cap to fit my master cylinder so I just made sure that the hose onto the bleedscrew was agood soft rubber and nice tight fit.

    J.


  10. #10
    Member John Ulrich's Avatar
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    Just finished using my plastic MityVac pump tonite.

    Doing a brake job on the mini van. I had to give it a try,
    I've looked at these for a few years. Broke down at Christmas when I was one of the discount stores.

    Last week I found I needed it to check the 3 carbs on my
    snowmobile for leaking needle and seats...yes they leaked!

    Only negative is the anount of pumps (20) between draws of
    fluid. My hands will be sore tomorrow!!!

    Well worth $29.00

    Later,
    JU

  11. #11
    Member wrc3's Avatar
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    Default Two Bleeder Screws?

    Ok all my calipers have two bleeder screws. Do I need to do both of them? Does it matter which order? Inside first, then outside?

  12. #12
    sac001
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    I'm not sure if it really matters, but when I did mine, I did the inside first, then the outside. Going the other way didn't make sense because the fluid (air) has to go past the first to get to the second. Good luck.

    Steve

  13. #13
    Member wrc3's Avatar
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    so I definitely have to do both of them though right?

  14. #14
    sac001
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    Definitely!

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    Member wrc3's Avatar
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    So as long as we are on the topic, why the extra screw looking thing, almost like you could run dual brake lines?

    B

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