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Thread: Clock??

  1. #1
    Member king80vette's Avatar
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    Default Clock??

    The circuit board connection to my clock is open. I was going to put a wire in place of it. Should I put a fuse or resistor in the line?
    Steve

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    Member Vette/Berlina-coupe's Avatar
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    -Why a resistor? -if just the printed-circuit is somehow fractured, you can repair, -jumping the fissure or break by carefully soldering a tiny-wire there-across (using a small inexpensive low-wattage RadioShack soldering-iron and a thin-bead of electrical-solder alone perhaps), --which solder may also act as a fuse (clock is already fused at your fuse-box so make sure that fuse is ok) if there is something else gone array within the clock. Usually by this many years, these older-mechanical (non-quartz) Clocks need to be removed and their tiny contact-points inside of the case be cleaned-up by working a tiny piece of folded 600-grit wet-or-dry type sandpaper there between (which grit is actually aluminum-oxide, and thus has a hardness of "9" on a diamonds scale of "10"). If you look at the opened-contacts via a good Magnifying-glass before you work'em, then you will visually see why the elect.current has stopped flowing passed their arced condition. --Usuallly, this is the only thing wrong with these clocks (the points touch every 3-min. or so to magnetically-wind a spring that actually runs the clock), and thus before you reassemble it into its encasement, be sure to give it a good dousing with RadioShack's aerosol TV-TunerCleaner while hooked-up to a battery-charger (so you can gingerly nudge the delicate rotary elements and escapement-mechanism to get it going while you spray). Then, let it drain (never blast with air-hose), it will eventually keep running on its own once excess fluid has drained and evaporated (but you have aerosol-blasted the clocks tiny pivot-points, whereby you have thus flushed away accumulated dirt-dust, whereto a thin-film of lubricant will finally remain). This fix should last for years, until the same procedure is eventually needed again, on my '49Cad.Fastback-coupe I've installed a lil'switch inside the glovebox, -that way I just turn-on the clock if I am going to show the car... ~Bob vH

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    Member king80vette's Avatar
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    Bob,
    Thanks for the information, I will do as you said.
    Thanks Steve.

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    Member king80vette's Avatar
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    Bob,
    I did what you said and the clock is working now. How often should the contacts be cleaned? Should I just clean them if it stops again?
    Steve

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    Member brian7836's Avatar
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    How difficult is it to get to the clock?

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    I'm glad you brought this up because my clock in my '78 doesn't work. What would I need to do to fix it up? Take off the whole console there to get at it? What kind of hardware is needed?

    Thanks!!

  7. #7
    fc3
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    Hey Guys, I fixed my clock by BUYING a new Quartz that looks like original. I had to send mine in for the movement to be put with my clock face. This is the company who did it. http://www.clockwks.com/CLOCKWORKS/The_Clock_Worx.html
    It hasn't missed a second since then. Fred



  8. #8
    LEEJANDZ
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    fc3 -- Hey Guys, I fixed my clock by BUYING a new Quartz that looks like original. I had to send mine in for the movement to be put with my clock face. This is the company who did it. http://www.clockwks.com/CLOCKWORKS/The_Clock_Worx.html
    Did you pay $109.95 w/ S&H or is there a CAC discount?

    my broken clock

  9. #9
    Member king80vette's Avatar
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    To repair the clock:
    1st you need to make sure its getting power. Remove the instrument cluster bezel by removing the 4 screws on the front, and the two connecting it to the center console. You need to get to these from under the center console. You also need to disconnect the radio from the instrument cluster bezel. Check for 12v from the post on the back of the clock to ground.

    If you have 12v disconnect the battery. This is very important you could blow out your circuit board or another instrument if you do not do this.

    Remove the two screws on the back of the clock and some of the lights. You may also need to remove some of the other nuts so you can pull the circuit board out of the way to get the clock out.

    Pull the hour and minute hands out to the second hand. Pull back the tabs holding the face to the clock base. This should give you room to get to the tabs holding the clock in the housing. Pull these back also.

    Pull the clock out of the housing and clean contact-points as Bob described above.
    Steve

  10. #10
    fc3
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    LEEJANDZ, I did not get a discount. Fred.


  11. #11
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    Originally posted by king80vette
    To repair the clock:
    1st you need to make sure its getting power. Remove the instrument cluster bezel by removing the 4 screws on the front, and the two connecting it to the center console. You need to get to these from under the center console. You also need to disconnect the radio from the instrument cluster bezel. Check for 12v from the post on the back of the clock to ground.

    If you have 12v disconnect the battery. This is very important you could blow out your circuit board or another instrument if you do not do this.

    Remove the two screws on the back of the clock and some of the lights. You may also need to remove some of the other nuts so you can pull the circuit board out of the way to get the clock out.

    Pull the hour and minute hands out to the second hand. Pull back the tabs holding the face to the clock base. This should give you room to get to the tabs holding the clock in the housing. Pull these back also.

    Pull the clock out of the housing and clean contact-points as Bob described above.
    Steve
    Hey, thanks a lot for that little guide, Steve!! When I get a couple of spare minutes I will check to see if my clock is getting any "juice" (). I appreciate it!!

  12. #12
    LEEJANDZ
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    fc3 -- I did not get a discount
    Thats too bad... maybe we should change that.



    JASON *** BRAND NEW MAGNECOR WIRES FOR SALE!!!

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