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  1. #16
    Member Rebelrob's Avatar
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    OK. Well I orderd a CTS a few mins ago from the auto part store.
    Where is teh EGR valve/solenoid located?
    I have read that a bad EGR can cause high idle, is this correct? Do you recommend changing it?




    Quote Originally Posted by jdp6000 View Post
    Yes thats the CTS. looks like the new style so its not original.

    That one hose should goes to the EGR solenoid. then a hose comes out to go to the EGR.

    Jim

  2. #17
    Member jdp6000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebelrob View Post
    OK. Well I orderd a CTS a few mins ago from the auto part store.
    Where is teh EGR valve/solenoid located?
    I have read that a bad EGR can cause high idle, is this correct? Do you recommend changing it?
    That hose on the passengerside TBI goes to the EGR solenoid its bolted to the valve cover or just beside it. From the solenoid comes a vaccum hose that goes to the EGR. Do you not have an EGR? Follow the hoses from the EGR valve.

    I wouldn't replace it yet. Test the EGR valve. Start the car and push up on the EGR diaphram from underneath. if the EGR is good the car should try and stall.

    Yes it can cause high idle if the EGR solenoid and EGR is bad. But you can take it out of the equation by disconnecting the EGRsolenoid hose on the TBI and plugging the hole.

    Jim

  3. #18
    Member jdp6000's Avatar
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    EGR solenoid looks like this

    Corvette, 1984 ACDelco EGR Solenoid Valve

    I know the ad is for an 84 but it looks the same...

  4. #19
    Member jdp6000's Avatar
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    You can see the EGR solenoid in your picture of that hose...see the bolt with the electical wires on the mainfold....thats what the solenoid attaches too.

  5. #20
    Member Rebelrob's Avatar
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    OK, will give it a try.
    Now is there a difference between EGR Solenoid and Valve or we talking about the same part? When you say plug the hole , do you mean on the EGR/hose or the opening on the TBI?



    Quote Originally Posted by jdp6000 View Post
    EGR solenoid looks like this

    Corvette, 1984 ACDelco EGR Solenoid Valve

    I know the ad is for an 84 but it looks the same...

  6. #21
    Member jdp6000's Avatar
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    Two different parts. The EGR looks like every other. Like a big mushroom...its over to the passenger side of the distributor. The solenoid is a small electrical valve...like in the picture. When I say unplug the hose i mean the one on the front TBI...that goes to the electric part (solenoid).

    Jim

  7. #22
    Member Rebelrob's Avatar
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    OK here is another pic, maybe you can help me out.
    What is the brass colored part next to firewall? I think I see the EGR solenoid in this pic. Also what is coming out the valve cover? All these emission parts are really throwing me. My old 350, did not have any of this.


    I also saw an ajustment screw on the side of the pass TBI pointing towards the fender. Is this the capped screw you mentioned?

    Dumb ?, do I need to do all this testing when its been running for a while, at operating temp? You mentioned it idles high a cold start up anyway?

    Quote Originally Posted by jdp6000 View Post
    Two different parts. The EGR looks like every other. Like a big mushroom...its over to the passenger side of the distributor. The solenoid is a small electrical valve...like in the picture. When I say unplug the hose i mean the one on the front TBI...that goes to the electric part (solenoid).

    Jim

  8. #23
    Member 73shark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebelrob View Post
    Yes, its a CE. I'm just looking for some help with some of my questions.
    Is that a 73?

    Yes, took delivery in April, '73.

    What is your hot idle in "Drive"?
    Save the wave

  9. #24
    Member Rebelrob's Avatar
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    Nice...
    My dad has a 73. It serves as a dust collector right now.
    He pro streeted it. It needs a new fuel system upgrade and cooling.

    I'm working with a few people to try and get my high idle problem solved.
    Im guessing I need to drive it before I try to test any of these out.


    Quote Originally Posted by 73shark View Post
    Yes, took delivery in April, '73.

    What is your hot idle in "Drive"?

  10. #25
    Member Rebelrob's Avatar
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    I disconnected that hose again that I sent in the pic and the idle jumped way up. I connected it and it went back down. I ran it for about 10 mins in the garage and the idle got down to 700 ish. I have not driven it yet to maybe get it hotter, but will try it out 2nite.
    I also pushed up on the egr valve and the engine started to bog down and quit. So maybe my egr valve and solenoid are working correctly.
    Wonder if I need that CTS?
    Thx for the help so far..

    R

    Quote Originally Posted by jdp6000 View Post
    You can see the EGR solenoid in your picture of that hose...see the bolt with the electical wires on the mainfold....thats what the solenoid attaches too.

  11. #26
    Member jdp6000's Avatar
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    That gold thing is the EGR it looks new. And yes if you pushed on it and it bogged its working. I can't make it out in your picure but does the hose from the gold thing go to that other thing with the electical wires connected to it? Then a hose should go form that electrical thing to the TBI. If thats the case all is fine there.

    So you understand. There are two hoses that come from that TBI. The furthest one is suppose to go to that thing with the red and black wires going to it. Then another hose comes from that thing with the two wires and goes to the gold thing.

    The other hose you see, towards the bottom right of your picture goes to the polution control stuff. Unplug that hose and cap the hole on the TBI. Does it make a diiference. That hose goes to the diverter valve for the polution control stuff. The polution control valves are pron to leaks. If it make a difference you may have to replace that valve or the next one down the line...its attached to the polution control pump...that funny looking thing with the belt turning the pulley.

    So back to your picture. You see the hose furthest away? The one that goes to the electical thing with the red/black wire??? To the left of that there is a hole and i can see the saucer shaped plug which I was talking about. The plug is there so no one has played with that TBI. There is a screw under that saucer shaped cap which is used to adjust the angle of the plates in the TBI. These are factory set. Adjusting them will not bring your idle down.The same saucer shaped plug should be on the other TBI.

    So I see nothing wrong there, Its good you are down to 700 rpm. You are getting close.

    Now on that same TBI look at the linkage. Do you see a screw welded with a drop of soldering? If so it has not been tampered with either.

    Once again I stress do not touch the settings. I'm going to send you a link that tells you how to set the TBI's but not because i want you to do it. Just for the pictures of the saucer shaped plugs and there location. here is the link Chevrolet Corvette EFI System Tuning - Tech Articles - Corvette Fever Magazine

    Your TBI looks pretty clean too. Thats good.

  12. #27
    Member jdp6000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebelrob View Post
    I disconnected that hose again that I sent in the pic and the idle jumped way up. I connected it and it went back down. I ran it for about 10 mins in the garage and the idle got down to 700 ish. I have not driven it yet to maybe get it hotter, but will try it out 2nite.
    I also pushed up on the egr valve and the engine started to bog down and quit. So maybe my egr valve and solenoid are working correctly.
    Wonder if I need that CTS?
    Thx for the help so far..
    Its the CTS (is your rad full?? It must be for the CTS to work) or you have a very minor vaccum leak somewhere. Check the bolts that hold the TBI's down for tightness. You may also what to check the PCV valve. Its in the valve cover on the driver side. If you remove it while the engine is running and put your finger under it it should suck hard. If you shake it it should rattle like a rattle snake. That could also be a source of a vaccum leak. The hose from the manifold goes to the PCV. Another hose from the other side of the PCV goes to a solenoid (looks exactly like the EGR solenoid). That solenoid opens and lets the vapor continue to the Carbon Canister. So Check the PCV and that solenoid. Easiest way is to un plug the hose from the PCV and plug it so nothing is being drawn from the mainfold. If the idle changes you found another leak.

    Jim

  13. #28
    Member jdp6000's Avatar
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    Rob,

    I'm on a plane to the Turks tomorrow morning. I'm back Sunday. I won't be able to reply to you until then. I'll check one more time tonight if I can.

    Jim

  14. #29
    Member Rebelrob's Avatar
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    OK Thanks. Took her out for spin for about 30 mins.
    Still ideling about 700 ish, sorta sporadic. It still shifts hard into R and D from Park. I have not tried the PCV test yet. Will try tomorrow.
    Maybe someone else can comment, but It sure seems to run cool.
    The temp guage barely makes it to the second hash mark. Temps are in the 60's 2nite. I also noticed it has an electric fan mounted on the radiator in front of the mechanical fan. What is the factory thermostat?
    Thanks,
    R

    Quote Originally Posted by jdp6000 View Post
    Rob,

    I'm on a plane to the Turks tomorrow morning. I'm back Sunday. I won't be able to reply to you until then. I'll check one more time tonight if I can.

    Jim

  15. #30
    She's all mine... 82ColEd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebelrob View Post
    Thanks for the info. Germany huh? How did a Vette end up way over there?
    Yep, the tint is dark. But I'm Texas, and let me tell ya, it gets hot here, real hot. The dark tint helps.

    1. My idel is high at start up/cold, goes right to about 1100 rpm. Same when it warms up and in drive. Stays about the same. I took her out last night. The temp was about 54 degrees, nice and cool out and it was the same.
    I will check the things you talk about.
    Vaccuum leak- where do I look for this? Coolant , u mean part of the radiator set up? I can check the screws. I put new air filters and sprayed the TBI with injector cleaner.

    Also, do you think this is why it shifts hard from Park to R and D?

    2. Gas gauge sending unit. I have heard of this. I can pull it right out from the top, where I put gas in? Should I disconnect my battery. That electric wire connector and gas, make me nervous?
    Also have you ever had problems with your fuel pump or gas tank at all?

    3. I will check for the antenna wires. I had a 97 trans am with electric antenna and the crappy thing went out in about 4 years. So I figured it was the little motor.

    Glad I found a fellow CE owner. Sorry bout all the questions. Dang I wish you were state side, I could call ya....

    Thanks,
    R
    I go away for a few hours and bang you guys are setting it down to 700 rpms already.. Good !

    Germany: Well, it was bought in the States around 91 and shipped over to Germany, modded for Euro Spec and i bought it in 93. Moved to the States in 97, lived there for 10 and moved back in 2007. Poor thing has it's sealegs by now.

    Let's make sure the idle is sorted first. But i did reply with a link to your PM re the Gas Tank Pump/Sender. It's tricky, but is possible. Gotta do the Twist.


    Quote Originally Posted by 22229stingray81 View Post
    IRS= Independent Rear Suspension.

    I know when I try to move her during high idle, or, one time when my alternator was dead, so the choke wouldn't turn off and it was idling around 2,000 rpm, putting it in gear was like you were squatting down and launching hard. I really do think it's normal for right now, however if you get your idle fixed and it is still drastic, maybe you should look into some of the suspension pieces. I know there is a pad above the differential pumpkin that can wear out and causes this condition. One step at a time though.. idle first.

    -Tatortot
    Clunk is normal. I have it too. And the squat is part of the fun of the half shafts. If it's too bad, once all else is sorted, we'll look at that then.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rebelrob View Post
    OK Thanks. Took her out for spin for about 30 mins.
    Still ideling about 700 ish, sorta sporadic. It still shifts hard into R and D from Park. I have not tried the PCV test yet. Will try tomorrow.
    Maybe someone else can comment, but It sure seems to run cool.
    The temp guage barely makes it to the second hash mark. Temps are in the 60's 2nite. I also noticed it has an electric fan mounted on the radiator in front of the mechanical fan. What is the factory thermostat?
    Thanks,
    R
    Might be a good time to state the following:
    Idle in P (COLD)
    Idle in D (COLD)
    Idle in P (WARM, ie. 165ish degrees, 2nd hash mark or above)
    Idle in D (WARM, see above)

    The temp gauge: Mine does it too, it takes a while to warm up. Once i sit in traffic for 5 minutes, bang the fans come on as it went over 180. Thats fairly normal though. Also, while it's 180+ it might shift 1-3, thats normal too, for emissions.

    Running fairly cool is a good thing. Mostly these run hot and arent enjoyable then.


    Re fans: Can you snap a pic, please?

    Ask any questions, we're happy to help (as you can see above. ). And usually, i take the cake with dumb questions. So dont worry about that.


    -Stefan

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