


Results 1 to 15 of 15
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03-18-09, 04:30 PM #1
Power locks only unlock... ideas???
Got an 81 and the power locks only UNLOCK. It can't be fuse since power is there but hear there are relays in each door...but another relay under the dash that would control both L&R must be someplace... Willing to pull the door panels but figured the problem must be a common relay since both L&R have the same symptom. Thanks FOLKS!
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03-18-09, 08:21 PM #2
This is a good excuse to get the Chev. Corvette shop manual. I think your guess is probably right but have no idea where the relay is as didn't have PDLs in '73.
Save the wave
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03-19-09, 12:41 AM #3
there are no relay's for the door locks.I wonder if one of the switches is bad??
I am currently in the process of changing both of mine...Bill and Gail...save the wave
NCRS member 42415
1981 St.Louis car #2735
all matching numbers
born Sept 18,1980
Cruisefest 2008
Cruisefestous 2009
Cruisefest 2010
Cruisefest 2011
Cruisefest2012
Without Trucks......
You would be Hungry,Homeless and Naked!!!!!!
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03-19-09, 01:38 PM #4
Hey JW, welcome to the
Your problem is likely a bad switch or faulty wiring. Does the switch work on either door? I don't have any of the manuals, but I've been inside my doors plenty of times. If the locks don't go down from the drivers side nor passenger side switch, then I'm thinking you've likely got a bad connector or wiring inside the door. You'll probably need to take the door panel off and put a voltmeter to the switch or wires and see where the problem lies. Unfortunately, I can't give much more assistance than that.
Someone else will likely chip in here.
...or it could just be a matter of taking the door panel off and cleaning the contacts. I seem to recall it being a 4-wire switch.
Celebrity's Choice Award Winner - CruiseFest 2004
People's Choice Award Winner - CruiseFest 2010
Blake Yager's MVC Award Winner - CruiseFest 2011
€vø|µ†¡¤ñ 1980
ZZ4 Engine - Hooker Super Comp headers (ceramic coated) - 700R4 - Steeroids - VB&P Brake Kit - Torqlite 17" Wheels
2003 Victory Vegas (1507cc / 92ci) - Stage 1 Performance Package - Arlen Ness Slashness Pipes...Gone but not forgotten!
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03-21-09, 06:47 AM #5
The wires to the door lock switches (for whatever reason) start to break at the switch connectors. They eventually are hanging on by one strand of wire and will not carry enough current to the door locks.
Start there inside the door panel. You will likely find it very quickly. A solder job to the connector will fix them right up.Pete
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03-22-09, 01:29 PM #6
just finished changing my door lock switches...
they finally work!!!!
1st time since I bought it!!!!!!Bill and Gail...save the wave
NCRS member 42415
1981 St.Louis car #2735
all matching numbers
born Sept 18,1980
Cruisefest 2008
Cruisefestous 2009
Cruisefest 2010
Cruisefest 2011
Cruisefest2012
Without Trucks......
You would be Hungry,Homeless and Naked!!!!!!
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03-22-09, 08:06 PM #7
Well thats ok
I need to fix mine too. The doors do not lock or un lock. Well I can lock the driver side with key but the passenger side I cant lock or unlock.... I had it lock and well could not open the door..... long story..... but it open some how
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03-23-09, 06:50 AM #8
The passenger side door won't unlock with the key? What about from the using the mechanical lock from inside on the passenger door? If that works but it's really hard to pull forward/push back, then you might have a seized up electric lock motor. That's what I found on mine when I bought my car umpteen years ago. I thought I was gonna break the key in the lock it was so hard to turn. After inspection, the motor had seized. I just removed the electric lock motors entirely. I find 'em somewhat unecessary on a 2-door with no remote lock/unlock ability.
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03-23-09, 08:09 AM #9
thats what I was think was the problem just have not time to check but I cant get the rod inside the car to move..... Its the same of both doors.
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07-10-13, 10:51 AM #10
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07-10-13, 07:47 PM #11
Celebrity's Choice Award Winner - CruiseFest 2004
People's Choice Award Winner - CruiseFest 2010
Blake Yager's MVC Award Winner - CruiseFest 2011
€vø|µ†¡¤ñ 1980
ZZ4 Engine - Hooker Super Comp headers (ceramic coated) - 700R4 - Steeroids - VB&P Brake Kit - Torqlite 17" Wheels
2003 Victory Vegas (1507cc / 92ci) - Stage 1 Performance Package - Arlen Ness Slashness Pipes...Gone but not forgotten!
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07-11-13, 10:35 AM #12
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07-12-13, 01:32 AM #13
Petmar..Welcome to CAC!!!enjoy..
any more questions,just ask!!!Bill and Gail...save the wave
NCRS member 42415
1981 St.Louis car #2735
all matching numbers
born Sept 18,1980
Cruisefest 2008
Cruisefestous 2009
Cruisefest 2010
Cruisefest 2011
Cruisefest2012
Without Trucks......
You would be Hungry,Homeless and Naked!!!!!!
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08-12-13, 12:59 PM #14
The door locks are a relatively complex system that uses BOTH switches to make it work. If it is only working in one way, it is a 99% chance that one of the switches (or wiring to the switches ) is bad. Because of the complexity of the circuit, you cannot tell which switch (you may be able to, but the circuit is a real brainteaser). I would change them both, You can buy two switches without the word "lock" on it for about $20, you can then make a decision if the word "lock" on the switches is worth $70.
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08-13-13, 05:03 AM #15
Usually, my experience is (and was as it happens all the time on mine) is that one of the cables cmes out of the 5 prong connector. Over the weekend i had my driver door apart and found one of th black cables (not the original color) was halfway out. It seems to have been sodered a while ago but that connection broke and the cable now lays in the connector. Symptom: They wouldnt lock properly (with enough force) anymore from either side. It's on my ToDo list..
Check your cable connections to the back of the switches, it might just be a loose cable/connection. Fix that and they may just work again.
-Stefan
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