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Thread: Power To Clock

  1. #1
    Member Jack64's Avatar
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    Default Power To Clock

    I removed my clock to clean and oil.
    Note: NO oil should ever be put on gears.
    Apply oil to pivot points only!

    Have no power to clock.
    Have checked fuses/ok
    Installed new ground/to no avail

    Harness and all wiring in car is new.

    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Member LLC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    I removed my clock to clean and oil.
    Note: NO oil should ever be put on gears.
    Apply oil to pivot points only!

    Have no power to clock.
    Have checked fuses/ok
    Installed new ground/to no avail

    Harness and all wiring in car is new.

    Any thoughts?

    Did you check all the fuses with a test light and probe all four pins/clips of the fuse? That is the only way to check the fuses properly.
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    Will do and get back

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    LLC5
    Thanks for the tip.
    Although all fuses looked good on inspection, when I tested with a multi meter I found 2 bad fuses!

    One had a jumper and a wire attached. When I removed the fuse/jumper wire, the rear brake lights would not go off.
    I assume there is a correlation between the removal and the lights staying on.

    Heading to NAPA in AM to get all new fuses.
    Regards

  5. #5
    Member LLC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    LLC5
    Thanks for the tip.
    Although all fuses looked good on inspection, when I tested with a multi meter I found 2 bad fuses!

    One had a jumper and a wire attached. When I removed the fuse/jumper wire, the rear brake lights would not go off.
    I assume there is a correlation between the removal and the lights staying on.

    Heading to NAPA in AM to get all new fuses.
    Regards


    Good job. Tube fuses can look good but have cracks in the middle, unsoldered ends from loose connection, or bad clip connection in the fuse box. Even micro fuses need to be checked with a test light for the same reasons.
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    Just back from NAPA (horrible Cape Cod traffic).
    Unable to find fuses rated at 12 volts.
    Amp = fine, but all fuses are rated at either 32v or 250 v.
    Question
    Are these fuses with higher voltage ratings ok to use?

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    Yes, as long as you go from higher voltage to lower voltage and keep the amperage rating the same. Do not do the inverse (12V in a 32V system). I am curious why NAPA didn't have 12V fuses, and who they sell 32 fuses to.
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    We searched every bubble pack at NAPA, no 12 volt fuses. Plenty of 32/125/250 volt packs.

    Ok then, based upon your recommendation I will purchase the higher voltage fuses. I plan to change them all out, as a couple are bad, and one is showing intermittent power flow based upon my meter.

    Thanks again LLC5. Will update when complete.

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    Well, making some progress, and regressing as well.

    Replaced all fuses except top 10 amp. (My puller broke)
    Now have interior lights, however, the brake lights will NOT go off.
    There was a jumper wire attached to either the 3 or 4,amp fuse through the use of a copper clip attached by friction to the fuse, then pressed in. It fell out and I lost behind carpet. Will get another.
    1) Cannot remember if jumper was attached to 3 or 4 amp
    2) Could this cause the brake lights to remain on?
    3) Getting reading of 15 amps at all fuse positions??

    Need some guidance...thank you

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    Well, making some progress, and regressing as well.

    Replaced all fuses except top 10 amp. (My puller broke)
    Now have interior lights, however, the brake lights will NOT go off.
    There was a jumper wire attached to either the 3 or 4,amp fuse through the use of a copper clip attached by friction to the fuse, then pressed in. It fell out and I lost behind carpet. Will get another.
    1) Cannot remember if jumper was attached to 3 or 4 amp
    2) Could this cause the brake lights to remain on?
    3) Getting reading of 15 amps at all fuse positions??

    Need some guidance...thank you


    Do your front turn signals come on too, or just the brake lights? Does your car have 4 way flashers? Unplug the stoplight switch and see if the brake lights go off.
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    LLC5,
    Front signals do NOT come on, just rear brake lights.
    Do not have 4 way flashers
    Currently away from car. Will unplug stoplight switch tomorrow and update.

    Have new puller and fuse taps arriving Monday.
    Wondering/hoping reattachment of fuse tap works to turn brake lights off. Did not have this problem until I removed the tap and attached wire.
    Rgds

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    LLC5,
    Front signals do NOT come on, just rear brake lights.
    Do not have 4 way flashers
    Currently away from car. Will unplug stoplight switch tomorrow and update.

    Have new puller and fuse taps arriving Monday.
    Wondering/hoping reattachment of fuse tap works to turn brake lights off. Did not have this problem until I removed the tap and attached wire.
    Rgds

    I can' see how that wire could turn off our brake lights unless there is an aftermarket component installed like alarm, etc.

    Make sure that the fuse tap is installed on the fused side of the barrel and not the power side unless the wire has an inline fuse holder.
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    LLC5,
    I believe the power tap was attached to the right side of the 3 amp fuse.
    Would this be the fused side?

    All fuses replaced. Awaiting arrival of power tap.
    Rgds

  14. #14
    Member LLC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    LLC5,
    I believe the power tap was attached to the right side of the 3 amp fuse.
    Would this be the fused side?

    All fuses replaced. Awaiting arrival of power tap.
    Rgds


    I think so, but it's been a long time for me. Check it with your voltmeter with the fuse out.

    I would trace that wire to it's origin and put an inline fuse in it, and install the clip on the unfused side. You could overload your OEM fused circuit with that wire.
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    OK, an update:
    1) All fuses have been replaced
    2) The power tap was attached to the cold side.
    It would appear this tap operates the directional lights, which were restored after tap installed.

    However, the following issues remain
    A) Brake lights remain on-all the time
    B) 2 Light bulbs to clock have power (10.6volts), but have tried 6 new bulbs and none light. All other dash/overhead lights are working.

    Any assistance to sort out these gremlins is most appreciated.
    By the way, in the process of restoration, all wiring harnesses were replaced.

    Regards...

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