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Thread: Power To Clock

  1. #16
    Member LLC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    OK, an update:
    1) All fuses have been replaced
    2) The power tap was attached to the cold side.
    It would appear this tap operates the directional lights, which were restored after tap installed.

    However, the following issues remain
    A) Brake lights remain on-all the time
    B) 2 Light bulbs to clock have power (10.6volts), but have tried 6 new bulbs and none light. All other dash/overhead lights are working.

    Any assistance to sort out these gremlins is most appreciated.
    By the way, in the process of restoration, all wiring harnesses were replaced.

    Regards...


    Have you unplugged the stop light switch?

    10.6 volts is low, you have a voltage drop somewhere, the circuit needs battery voltage 12.2-12.6V. If these are individual socket light bulbs check for power and ground to each with the park lights on.

    BTW, does your clock work now?
    Last edited by LLC5; 07-01-19 at 08:00 PM.
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  2. #17
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    Continuing saga:
    Brake Lights remain on.
    Checked brake switch, operating fine. Plunger moves easily
    Might it be defective?.

    Otherwise I do have all other lights, parking/directional, front/back.

    Regards,
    Happy 4th of July to all from Plymouth, Ma

  3. #18
    Member LLC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    Continuing saga:
    Brake Lights remain on.
    Checked brake switch, operating fine. Plunger moves easily
    Might it be defective?.

    Otherwise I do have all other lights, parking/directional, front/back.

    Regards,
    Happy 4th of July to all from Plymouth, Ma


    But did you disconnect the wire connector at the switch to see if your brake lights go out?
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    LLC5, unable work on switch other than observe plunger.
    Dealing with torn meniscus in knee. Will try at it again and report back
    Rgds

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    LLC5, unable work on switch other than observe plunger.
    Dealing with torn meniscus in knee. Will try at it again and report back
    Rgds

    Understood, sorry to hear that. Make sure that the stop light switch is adjusted so it is bottomed out to the lowest position of it's stop (all the way in to the stopping point). You could also pull back on the brake pedal with your hand and see if the lights go out.
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    LLC5,
    Have unsuccessfully spent several hours trying to remove brake light switch. Between my artificial hip, my torn meniscus, and my large hands, it did not go well.

    Want to reconnect switch to its connector.
    I know which connector slot is hot
    HOW do I determine which terminal on the brake light switch to attach to??
    (same question applies to clock)

    Again, the switch is separated from its connector.

    Many thanks...😤

  7. #22
    Member LLC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    LLC5,
    Have unsuccessfully spent several hours trying to remove brake light switch. Between my artificial hip, my torn meniscus, and my large hands, it did not go well.

    Want to reconnect switch to its connector.
    I know which connector slot is hot
    HOW do I determine which terminal on the brake light switch to attach to??
    (same question applies to clock)

    Again, the switch is separated from its connector.

    Many thanks...


    With the switch separated from the wire connector did the lights go off? The stoplight switch should have just two terminals on it and the wires can go on either way. With the brake pedal in it's rest position the stoplight plunger should be adjusted all the way in and I usually adjust it so the body of the switch barely contacts the stop (usually the brake pedal).

    The clock does matter, it is polarity sensitive. I would need to see the clock, but usually the insulated terminal is battery positive.
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  8. #23
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    Brake Lights
    Yes, with the switch separated, the brake lights went out.
    Good indication, am guessing, the switch is the problem.
    Will hook up switch and adjust tomorrow. May correct.

    img_0845-jpgClock
    Terminal with nut is attached to a shaft coming out of clock
    Terminal riveted on is merely attached to the case

    Am I correct that the load side of the connector should be attached to the terminal attached with the nut?

    As always, thank you

  9. #24
    Member LLC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    Brake Lights
    Yes, with the switch separated, the brake lights went out.
    Good indication, am guessing, the switch is the problem.
    Will hook up switch and adjust tomorrow. May correct.

    img_0845-jpgClock
    Terminal with nut is attached to a shaft coming out of clock
    Terminal riveted on is merely attached to the case

    Am I correct that the load side of the connector should be attached to the terminal attached with the nut?

    As always, thank you



    The riveted side (left in picture) is the negative side of the battery. The terminal with the nut should be the positive side of the battery. Make sure that the positive terminal is isolated properly from the metal clock base, the picture makes it look like it could be touching which would cause a dead short.
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  10. #25
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    LLC5,
    You are correct. The terminal attached with the nut is in contact with the case.

    A) Must we isolate the nut as well as the terminal?
    B) Best way to isolate...rubber washer?

    Regards

  11. #26
    Member LLC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack64 View Post
    LLC5,
    You are correct. The terminal attached with the nut is in contact with the case.

    A) Must we isolate the nut as well as the terminal?
    B) Best way to isolate...rubber washer?

    Regards

    Usually there is a plastic grommet that slides over the terminal insulating the stud and where it attaches inside the clock. Do you remember what was there before disassembly? If not rubber or plastic could be used, just make sure that the stud where it passes through the metal case is well insulated so it will never contact the case. Maybe find a place that rebuilds them and see what they use.
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  12. #27
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    LLC5,
    Don't recall anything being present to insulate when I removed clock a couple months ago.
    Perhaps that's why it didn't work last time it was on the road 43 years ago!!

    Off to Corvette show tomorrow. Will inquire about availability of insulator locally. Perhaps somebody has a spare...

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