• No battle plan survives contact with the enemy.
  • No battle plan survives contact with the enemy.
  • No battle plan survives contact with the enemy.
  • No battle plan survives contact with the enemy.

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  1. #1
    Member haganml's Avatar
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    Default No battle plan survives contact with the enemy.

    Eagerly awaiting the arrival of my window parts for the drivers door. They have arrived! While disassembling the window and cleaning/lubricating the components I find hidden damage . Well I expected some, ordered the necessary new parts (I have ordered the front window glass guide, duh!). Looking at the new rear window glass guide I find the chrome has a different appearance, one side is round the other is square. Checking with the passenger door which is in excellent condition I find the chrome trim has the square edge to the out side. Okay. That guide is somewhat difficult to install. I found that marking the window frame with tape where the holes are in the inner metal frame (where the plastic button clips go in this frame) helps in positioning them. Position the clip at the tape. Walk the guide side to side until you can feel it to be in position then a light tap with a rubber hammer allows it to pop in place. This is easily damaged and very little force is needed. The metal frame is easily bent also, requiring a great deal of patience. This is important. I am now ordering a new rear glass guide and reshaping the frame .

    The upper roller channel was bent, distorted and kinked. I spent 90 minutes working on it and realized it was better to get a new one ($20.00 for the part versus an hour and a half of my time). The window glass retainer bolts onto this channel.

    The access to the inner mechanism is limited and using just "okay" parts makes it harder. The window glass is very thick compared to the glass I am used to installing, it is heavy and difficult to maneuver inside the door. I will have to make a "tool" to assist me. There is one access hole in the FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic) inner door skin that all the window mechanical components are fixed to. No "improvements" for access would help the integrity of this panel.

    The stainless steel glass retainer that bolts to the upper roller channel has been "dimpled" by a punch for some reason. I think someone was trying to "improve" the grip on the glass as it was being pulled out of that retainer every time the window was lowered past the half way point. The rubber gripping strip that held the glass in place had dried and compressed to the point it no longer held the glass. Installing a new rubber grip has resolved that issue. I have been looking in the catalogs for that part and haven't found one yet. I have been through Corvette America, Corvette Central and Zip catalogs for the C2. I assume nobody needs to replace the retainer, the markings will not show when it is installed BUT I know some uninformed individual has "improved" it. Any help locating the drivers door glass retainer for me would be appreciated.

    As for now the Coupe sets without a window, waiting for parts. Time for a new plan of attack. No pictures yet I was too eager to get started on the door. I will try to exercise more restraint in my next mission.

    Mark.
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  2. #2
    Motor head!!!! vigman's Avatar
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    Default Hahahahahahah

    It's kinda like that isn't it.....
    Believe me I feel your PAIN

    Mike
    vigman@earthlink.net

  3. #3
    Motor head!!!! vigman's Avatar
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    Default Mark I saw your garage post

    Looks like we both have our work cut out for us......

    So what's your power train situation?
    Do you have a target punch list ( in or out of order ) ?
    Anything you need.. give a shout...

    Mike
    vigman@earthlink.net

  4. #4
    Member haganml's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vigman View Post
    Looks like we both have our work cut out for us......

    So what's your power train situation?
    Do you have a target punch list ( in or out of order ) ?
    Anything you need.. give a shout...

    Mike
    Building up the cash reserve to buy a GM crate motor (290/350) to start assembling this jigsaw puzzle that has been in boxes for the last 20 years. Some has been done, you can see after blowing the dust off! Motor first then assembly of a complete engine from the components in the boxes, start it then install it in the body. Wheels roll, looks like the brakes have been refurbished (I don't know how long it has been, it may have been wasted effort for all I know at this point). I have what looks to be the original factory exhaust manifolds (I haven't checked the casting numbers yet), Winters manifold and a Holley carburetor. Three distributors, factory w/ tachometer drive, Mallory dual point (Cast iron) Mallory electronic trigger wheel (Aluminum). I haven't done a complete inventory and I probably need to buy a lot of missing items.

    I started on the drivers window to try to get my head around the ways and means of how the car was made. It has been a long time since I have worked on 60's technology. I did have a 1968 Camaro, 210/327 Quadrajet, Saginaw 4 speed with 4 wheel drum brakes. I was just a kid working as a apprentice mechanic.

    I will get a more complete inventory started now winter is settling in and travel and family gigs are slowing down.

    Mark.l
    Last edited by haganml; 10-30-12 at 03:14 PM.
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  5. #5
    Motor head!!!! vigman's Avatar
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    Default How.." original " are you going to go?

    Or do ya know....
    I do not believe the mallory was ever stock...
    Can you get the # off the tach drive single point distrib?
    Should be stamped on the back of the distrib ( external ) and under where the condenser lives ( internal )
    vigman@earthlink.net

  6. #6
    No battle plan survives contact with the enemy.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vigman View Post
    Or do ya know....
    I do not believe the mallory was ever stock...
    Can you get the # off the tach drive single point distrib?
    Should be stamped on the back of the distrib ( external ) and under where the condenser lives ( internal )
    All midyear distributors were Delco, cast iron, tach drive, with the part number and date embossed on an aluminum band around the housing just below the tach drive.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails crossgearcavity800-jpg  
    John
    '67 Convertible
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  7. #7
    Member haganml's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vigman View Post
    Or do ya know....
    I do not believe the mallory was ever stock...
    Can you get the # off the tach drive single point distrib?
    Should be stamped on the back of the distrib ( external ) and under where the condenser lives ( internal )
    Well, there are three of them. A Delco w/tach drive that has a red aluminum ring around the shaft. A non stock Mallory w/tach drive and shutter wheel and a Accell w/tach drive that is missing the points plate and centrifugal advance weights. The PO was a racer and raced drag boats. He wasn't concerned with originality. I have a few boxes of performance parts along with the original parts. BeCool aluminum radiator, Tremec 5 speed gearbox, high polish chrome power steering pump w/pulleys, a set of chrome Hooker side mount exhaust "spaghetti" tube headers with side mufflers and the Mallory pointless distributor. Also in boxes are the original parts; Muncie M20 4 speed (disassembled in a box), 3844461 intake manifold, 2 exhaust manifolds (397902/3846563), Holley carburetor, original power steering pump and pulleys, drive shaft. I would like to refurbish the car to stock. BUT I do not have the original engine. If I could find the engine it would be numbers matching drive line. The rest of the car is good to go as far as originality. It will be a driver. I can't see owning a garage queen that I don't drive. I do want to add power brakes and A/C to bring it to my comfort level.

    All it takes is cubic money.

    Mark.

  8. #8
    Member haganml's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnZ View Post
    All midyear distributors were Delco, cast iron, tach drive, with the part number and date embossed on an aluminum band around the housing just below the tach drive.

    I will have to clean the grime off the tag to read it, I'll wait on that a while. The ring is there but the distributor is back in the box waiting for it's time to be installed. The 5 blade fan w/clutch is covered with oily dust as well, the date will be on the fan clutch once it is clean. It was given a cheap paint job and driven until it died of a broken timing chain. It was parked in a garage for 25 years collecting dust.

    Mark.
    Last edited by haganml; 10-30-12 at 11:15 AM.

  9. #9
    Motor head!!!! vigman's Avatar
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    Default Well my book of Chevy casting & numbers is in errror

    Not suprising

    It stated original V-8's had the tags.. and mid 60's switched to aluminum with stamping...
    I guess there's room for what mid 60's means....

    I love learning about this....I really like learning what is the truth!

    Thanks
    Mike
    vigman@earthlink.net

  10. #10
    Motor head!!!! vigman's Avatar
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    Default Mark, while your waiting

    Maybe a day or 3 of washing, resorting & inventory is in order....While your waiting for the checkbook to re inflate..?

    Has the timing chain been replaced on the engine on the stand....?

    How mechanical are you....?
    A) Changing plugs & wires hurts my brain...and you say dwell again I'll punch you out...
    B) I'll set my own timing, adjust valves but pulling a head is a bit outta my league...
    C) I do clutch jobs all the time & hold the tranny with my teeth..
    D) I have a guy.. who does all that... stuff...

    MIGHT be cheaper if your a B ( or better ) to at least look at the stand engine.. then to buy a crate motor...

    $2300 bucks buys a fair amount of rebuild..IF you have a good machine shop....
    and you wont have a 2nd motor ( old or new ) hangin about.. unless you like that.... Like me LOL
    Last edited by vigman; 10-29-12 at 07:32 PM.
    vigman@earthlink.net
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  11. #11
    Member haganml's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vigman View Post
    Maybe a day or 3 of washing, resorting & inventory is in order....While your waiting for the checkbook to re inflate..?

    Has the timing chain been replaced on the engine on the stand....?

    How mechanical are you....?
    A) Changing plugs & wires hurts my brain...and you say dwell again I'll punch you out...
    B) I'll set my own timing, adjust valves but pulling a head is a bit outta my league...
    C) I do clutch jobs all the time & hold the tranny with my teeth..
    D) I have a guy.. who does all that... stuff...

    MIGHT be cheaper if your a B ( or better ) to at least look at the stand engine.. then to buy a crate motor...

    $2300 bucks buys a fair amount of rebuild..IF you have a good machine shop....
    and you wont have a 2nd motor ( old or new ) hangin about.. unless you like that.... Like me LOL
    Well, I do have two engines hanging out. The late 50's 283 that was in the Coupe so the PO's spouse could drive it and a 64-67 327 that was going into the car when life got in the way. It was built up in the late 70's for leaded gas. It has been laying under a bench some where and has about 1/4 inch of dust in the valley all over the lifters (no valve covers, yikes). To use that engine I will have to pull the heads for research on the pistons (compression ratio) and have the heads done for unleaded gas (Stellite seats). BUT, the biggest issue is some crafty individual used a die grinder to remove the engine number on the front pad! Gouged it out about 3/8 of an inch deep! I have yet to turn it over looking for a number near the oil filter.

    The 283 is not going back into the Corvette. The 327 with the numbers ground off makes me nervous. I want to add A/C, dual circuit power brakes (67 Corvette). I did a workup on finding a 2 bolt main SBC and rebuilding it. It will save me about $150.00. It seemed to me that the 290/350 crate motor was the way to go. I would know it was legal. I did find a 2 bolt main 383 that a friend told me was for sale, He wanted $3,200.00. Nice engine, it was destined for his 66 Chevelle but I'm not looking for a tire burner just a driver. He wound up putting a ZZ383 in the Chevelle

    How mechanical am I? E) I am the guy.. who does all that... stuff... I was a professional Dealer level Shop Foreman for 16 years on Stevens Creek in San Jose. Spent 8 years working as a technical adviser for a German vehicle importer in Detroit. When I started working on cars we would rebuild everything. I am mechanical, having a lot of spare cash I am not.

    I've found that if you wash off the grease and oil before you are ready to use the part it will sit on the shelf and rust into oblivion. It's not that hard to clean it up as you install. When it is clean, change your gloves and install it.

    Would you know anyone who would be interested in a 57 to 59 283 core W/ 168 tooth flywheel? I can send the casting and engine numbers. It turns over about 1/2 revolution then stops, will go anti-rotation the same. Classic broken timing chain.

    Mark.
    Last edited by haganml; 10-30-12 at 12:53 AM.
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  12. #12
    Motor head!!!! vigman's Avatar
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    Default Ahh didn't know about the VIN GRIND

    Mark
    So yeah.. I can see where that would make some one nervous...
    Considering $600 gets you this...
    1965 65 Corvette Chevy Impala SS Chevelle Small Journal 327 Engine Block 3782870 | eBay

    So maybe the crate is the way to go for you.....
    New, warranty,bolt N go, legal...

    So what's next.....??

    Crate engine, bolt stuff up drop engine & tranny into car ?

    Mike
    vigman@earthlink.net

  13. #13
    Member haganml's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vigman View Post
    Mark
    So yeah.. I can see where that would make some one nervous...
    Considering $600 gets you this...
    1965 65 Corvette Chevy Impala SS Chevelle Small Journal 327 Engine Block 3782870 | eBay

    So maybe the crate is the way to go for you.....
    New, warranty,bolt N go, legal...

    So what's next.....??

    Crate engine, bolt stuff up drop engine & tranny into car ?

    Mike
    The 327 engine block is very interesting! Thank you for pointing me in that direction. Too bad it is in the Midwest. After I motor around in the car for a while and become a Corvette junkie I may go that route. Right now it is about getting it on the road. So right; crate engine, assemble with the Tremec 5 speed, add a Vintage Air 5th generation A/C and dual circuit power brake system. The car already has power steering and 4 wheel disc brakes. Sort out the running gear and take it apart to paint it (I will go base color/clear in Milano Maroon) . The glass is good (well, the tinted windshield is pitted and I have a "shell" on the top of the driver window ) and carpet can wait for paint. My second son is a body shop manager in Berkley so we can run the coupe though his place.

    If I go the vintage engine route I can put the crate engine in my 95 Silverado (245K miles) to freshen up the old truck. I had to replace a leaking water pump recently, can you imagine that!

    Mark.
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  14. #14
    Motor head!!!! vigman's Avatar
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    Default That sounds like a PLAN !

    I only pointed that one out ( and it's a tad expensive ) but it COULD have Corvette history... but these days it's a bit IFFY...
    You could get a similar 327 for lots less.. that way you could use SOME of your other engine parts... and have a SLIGHTLY more "correct" engine..
    ( Like my 68 Bel Air 327 in Mutley now LOL ).
    Hows' the wiring in the engine bay ? I gottta say changin to the Lectric limited harnesses made a world of difference.. mainly looks, but more about ease of huntin down issues.. since it wasn't a total hack N splice job....

    Since I'm down with this cold.. I have lots O time to consider my next moves....

    More photos... hint hint....
    vigman@earthlink.net
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  15. #15
    Member haganml's Avatar
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    Not too many uninformed individuals have had their mitts on the Coupe. The harness is old not so much hacked up. I have the crimping devices and a lot of experience rewiring wire harnesses. I will be installing A/C in any event.
    It is not very photogenic right now but here are some photos.100_2675-1-jpg100_2676-1-jpg100_2679-1-jpg100_2681-1-jpg100_2678-1-jpg100_2680-1-jpg100_2682-1-jpg100_2685-1-jpg #1 shows what makes me nervous about using this engine. #2 the accumulated grime on the rockers. #3 the original interior. #4 I guess the PO was an Oakland Knight. #5 that is a "shell" in the glass. #6 carpet. #7 wheels and a Go-Jak. They really make it easy to reposition the car. Pricy? Oh yeah. #8 nice paint huh?


    Mark.
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