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  1. #1
    Member SebringBill's Avatar
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    Default 62 Engine Problem

    I've been helping switch engines in a 62 (base 327 auto) and have the same problem as before the transplant: the engine doesn't want to start when hot. We've replaced the engine with a correct 62 block, rebuilt the starter, rodded out the radiator and installed a new battery. When cold, it starts and shifts OK. Get things up to operating temp and shifting into drive or reverse stalls the engine. Trying to restart it is the challenge; it's like the battery is low - very slow to crank, even to the point of click, click, click. The next turn of the key could be another click or a slow crank or a few faster cranks. Occasionally it'll start up, but shift it into gear and it stalls again. When running at operating temp, the temp gauge just made it past 180 but when it stalled a fair amount of (new) coolant exited the expanstion tank via the cap, not the overflow tube. I'm wondering where to look next: trans? electrical? (I like my 57 better every day...)

    "Sebring"Bill Herron
    2 Vettes -- 11 speeds
    1957 #3143 - second owner
    1997 #0993 - Jim Schefter's original ACAR
    Down the Road: 2000 #1090 - Kerbeck's least favorite Vette
    NCM Lifetime #49~SACC #229~NCRS # 4638~C5R #4418

  2. #2
    Administrator Tom Bryant's Avatar
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    1959 black 270hp (9/2/69) 1981 Beige L81(10/20/80)
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    Default

    Hi Bill,

    That sounds just like the '77 Chevy truck I used to have. It was actually 2 seperate problems that, combined, were a total pain.

    The starter sounds like the old heat soak problem. Seems like it would always stall half way out into an intersection then I got to push it off the road and sit about a half hour. Then it would fire right up.

    I cleaned the grounds and checked the battery and cables. Then I rebuilt the starter and added another ground from the bellhousing bolt closest to the starter to the frame. After this it would restart when it stalled but was still slower cranking that it should have been.

    The next step would have been to install a heat shield wrap on the starter. Everyone told me this would cure the problem but It would start then so I never got around to the wrap.

    The stalling was strickly the carb. It would go through a period during warm up where it just wouldn't run unless you kept your foot on it. It was not all choke related either since it would die at a stop sign even after being driven for a good distance. I did a carb rebuild and it was pretty good after that.

    I'd say check your grounds and add another for a beginning. Then I'd put a heat wrap on it. Summit has several different ones. A local store may have them too.

    On the stalling check that:

    Idle speed is at 450 rpm warmed up in drive.
    Mixture screws are both set to highest vacuum reading.
    Choke is opening all the way.
    Heat riser is working.
    Timing and dwell are correct and vacuum advance is working.

    If this don't solve the stalling a look inside the carb is in order to check float level and function. You didn't say if you rebuilt the carb or not. It may be time.

    As for the expansion tank burping coolant are you over filling it? I don't know what the full level is but just like a radiator, if you fill it to the top it'll push some out the first few times you heat cycle it.


    Tom
    1959 Chevrolet Corvette 1981 Chevrolet Corvette , 350 L81 automatic Frost Beige

  3. #3
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    Default

    I had a '57 Chevy about 40 years ago that did about the same thing. Local starter shop rebuilt starter and didn't fix it. Finally, we bought parts house rebuilt starter and replaced positive battery cable at same time and that cured the starter drag issue, but............... then it would spin freely and not start when hot. Old mechanic friend of Dad's said to put an ignition coil on it and it would fix it. I doubted it, but it did. Don't know if starter OR pos. cable fixed drag when hot problem (or maybe both) but ignition coil fixed hot start problem for sure. Never followed the logic

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