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View Full Version : first STEALTH RAM DYNO



grumpyvette
04-18-02, 05:04 PM
http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum12/HTML/000534.html
now remember this is PURE bone stock add a cam and headers, etc and the extra AIR/FUEL flow CFM of that STEALTH RAM will easily get you 100hp+ over a TPI intake with the same parts, got questions TALK TO DOUG,(one of HOLLEYS ENGINEERS ON THAT PROJECT) over at CHEVYTALK.COM tell him GRUMPYVETTE TOLD YOU TO ASK HIM, this intake is way better than most thats obvious, think how lousy a tunnel ram would work on a pure stock engine, the STEALTH RAM MADE 63 more hp on a stock engine! think about it!
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keep the rubber side down and the fiberglass off the guard rails

69MyWay
04-19-02, 04:22 AM
You know, the tuned port manifold kills engine power over 4,700. I have seen tests like these on tpi motors just switching to a carb and after market 4 bbl intake in the upper rpm numbers. Looking at that test you see it clear as day. The seat of the pants difference in power does not take place until right at 4,600 or so RPM.


Those of you with stock tpi intakes and especially stick shift cars no exactly what it feels like to have the wind jerked out of your sails right about the time most other cars start to really stroll.

I don't see where he was showing torque numbers for heads up comparisons. I have yet to see on the lower rpm scale, anything beat a stock tpi for uder 3,000 rpm torque grunt power.

I remember driving the 90 when it was still Nikki's car. Getting on the interstate and pulling the engine through the revs and feeling it wind out.

I got side by side with a new mustang at about 65, and he wanted to play. I dropped it into fourth and punched it. Well, needless to say the mustang was long gone by the time I realized that I was reving aweful nice, but was going slower until I could shift and bring the rpm back into the 4,000 zone. That does not happen now that the TPI is stitting in the corner of the shop collecting dust.

Good information, thanks for sharing.

Mad-Mic
05-01-02, 09:12 PM
how much for that kind of setup? what you listed there. i got 36k miles on my car and don't really want to rebuild the whole motor just intake, exhaust, and some other bolt ons (for now)

danl72
05-01-02, 09:29 PM
Originally posted by Mad-Mic
how much for that kind of setup? what you listed there. i got 36k miles on my car and don't really want to rebuild the whole motor just intake, exhaust, and some other bolt ons (for now)
I agree, how much does it cost.

grumpyvette
05-03-02, 11:47 AM
Hey guys,
Just wanted to pass some info. YOUR STOCK COIL IN CAP HEI DISTRIBUTOR WON,T FIT, BUT THE HOLLEY #billet distributor # 890-160 or SMALL CAP G.M. HEI with remote mount coil with the HOLLEY PN#534-138 adapter will fit.
The price at Summit for the lower and upper (unpolished) is 279.99 (7540)
The fuel rail kit which you need is 173.69 from Summit (534-185) Less than $500 total.
The results given are from the chassis dyno. A 1-2-3 gear pull (700R4) was done. The lowest rpm given was from the gear shift on (that is what it dropped to on the shift recovery). The 1st gear numbers were the same as the stock TPI (from a dead roll), but with converter, etc, I question that. If I had a 5 sp car I would pull from 1000 RPM. I posted what we had, not trying to hide anything.
This intake is not designed for someone that shifts at 4000 RPM and likes torque at 1400 RPM. If that is what you want, keep the stock TPI intake as that is what it is designed for.
Hope that helps.
[Modified by Doug Flynn, 10:06 AM 4/20/2002]
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Doug
1972 388 EFI Nova
flynnsefi
Here's a list of parts we used.
-Used a 85 Camaro Carbureted upper radiator hose (Dayco 71028) (trimmed the ends back)
- Use a std. small block Chevy waterneck (Mr. Gasket PN 2661)
-Two 1/4" x 1/8"NPT straight barb fittings (rear of intake, MAP sensor and other items, I run only one line to MAP)
-One 3/8" x 3/8" NPT straight barb fitting (rear of intake other vacuum items)
-One 3/8" x 3/8" NPT 90 deg. barb (goes under plenum, used for brake booster)
- 2 feet 1/4" vacuum hose
- 2 feet 3/8" vacuum hose
- (1) 5/16" compression fitting to -6 male AN
- (1) 3/8" compression fitting to -6 male AN
- (2) 3-1/2 foot -6 line with female hose ends. Goes from inlet and outlet to fuel stock fuel lines which are cut from underneath car, the two compression fittings are installed on the stock fuel line.
- (3) 1/4" vacuum plugs for EGR solenoid and throttle body
- (1) large clamp
All the vacuum ports are machined into the plenum. The current lowers don't have the late style center bolts machined, but I am getting future ones machined correctly to fit both. Can't say when for sure. Used the stock air inlet.
You lose EGR and we didn't hook the coolant to the throttle body. Need to use the small cap GM HEI. Coil mounted with stock bracket in stock location.

Didn't have to modify any wiring.

http://iroc.fbody.com/sr.jpg

Mad-Mic
05-03-02, 05:06 PM
Grumpy, what year vette do you have?

are you running the stock throttle body?

How does the car pull from 4800 to 6000 rpm?

I'm looking for pull above 4800 rpm so the car shifts harder and just flat out pulls harder with out doing a total rebuild. i don't wanna modify the tranny with a shift kit or stall yet. She will get funky sometimes hitting second at 5500 rpm. Everyonce in awhile on a cool crisp night she'll chirp Drive, but in powerband at the 4800 dump line it don't shift as hard.I have a 3 yr 36k mile warrenty on this car so i want to be able to swap out fast if something happens...lol ;) But most of my mods will be done in the winter depending if i want to keep the car and have no problems with it. Now that i got this one i want another one!....hehe in a year or so i think i'm gonna have my eye on a ZR-1 or maybe a LT-4 car, possibly a C-5 but i like the C-4 bodies better. :_rock With a 6 speed. reason i didn't get one this go around cause i wasn't familiar with the handling characteristics of the car under stress conditions. I'm VERY happy with my 87 just want more HP for now :D

Thanks for letting me pick your brain on this :)

grumpyvette
05-04-02, 07:35 AM
I have 3 vettes, 1985 (my toy) 1992 (I never seem to get this one back from my older son) 1996 (my daily driver)

I have an edelbrock 58mm throttle body but the stock one will work ok an a reletivly mild 350-383 engine

the car pulls great to just over 6000rpm and would obviously pull higher except for the trans shiftting at 6000rpm now that Ive replaced a heavily ported TPI with big port base and slp siamesed runner intake with the stealth ram
the old intake started to run out of air at 5200rpm, the stock intake died at about 4500rpm but I have no doubt at all that in a manual trans car with a good ignition rev limiter shifting at 6500rpm or so with the stealth ram and the correctly matched roller cam would easily pull an extra 150hp from the engine.

match the stealth ram to a good roller hydrolic cam of about 225@.050 durration and youll have a great combo, Im useing the #119661 crane cam but I would suggest something about 1 step milder for street driveing as its not ideal in traffic, I don,t have to pass emission testing, and it really needs a 3.73 rear gear to match its torque range perfectly. something like the CROWER HYDROLIC ROLLER #00483 WOULD BE IDEAL

YOU ARE AWARE THAT IT DOES NOT FIT UNDER THE STOCK HOOD AREN,T YOU, AND IT REQUIRES A SMALL DIA. HEI DISTRIBUTOR OR THE HOLLEY DISTRIBUTOR, IM GOING TO INSTALL A 2" HOOD SCOOP BUBBLE THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS,
http://www.toledopro.com/channelpage.html

RIGHT NOW IM DRIVEING AROUND WITH A HOOD THATS ABOUT 1-2 INCHES SHORT OF CLOSEING,BECAUSE STEALTH RAM IS ABOUT .8 INCHES TO TALL FOR THE STOCK HOOD HEIGHT BUT i WONT SWAP BACK! THE PERFORMANCE IS MUCH BETTER!

grumpyvette
05-14-02, 08:18 PM
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here this may help http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?threadid=101299 if you think of the stealth ram as a tunnel ram intake with none of the bad carb problems and all of the good EFI features youll get the IDEA. BUT KEEP IN MIND Im useing a modifyed 1985 vette ECU and a more modern ECU will give far better results and more that likely a better torque curve too.
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the stock throttle body and brackets bolt right on and work just fine!I used a stock L98 throttle body for testing and an EDELBROCK 58mm after I got it adjusted, both worked with no problems at all,on my vette I installed the injectors,fuel rails, throttle body and some of the brackets as a unit, most parts were directly swapped from the TPI intake, the only major differance was that on my 1985 vette has a 9th injector for the cold start/idle and this is not a design feature on the stealth ram, I overcame this by drilling out the center of a 1/8" pipe plug fitting and J&B welding the 9th injector in the center of the drilled out 1/8' pipe plug , I screwed this into the back of the steath ram and silver soldered a adapter fitting to the fuel feed tube and extended the wireing for the electrical connection, everything else was standard,of course only the early TPI systems had that 9th injector so you will not need to do that on most of the TPI set-ups, the stealth ram allowed my engine to still pull hard at a self imposed 6400rpm redline while the stock TPI died at about4400- 4700rpm and a super ram I owned seemed to start running out of air at about 5400-5700rpm, the higher the rpms the better the STEALTH RAM WORKS but it seems to work every bit a as well from 3500rpm and up as the super ram from what the car feels like, no I have not yet put it on a dyno but theres no doubt the car is faster, Ill get it to the track for testing as soon as I fix the hood clearance problem, and btw the stock TPI measures about 8.6" tall in the front and about 9" tall in the back and the holley STEALTH RAM is 10" tall full length which in the case of my 1985 vette is about 3/4" too tall for the hood to close fully.

AGVI
10-08-07, 12:03 PM
I remember driving the 90 when it was still Nikki's car.

SIXX? :upthumbs