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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by berry1133@bellsouth.net View Post
    Ok. Took the jumper off. Ran gator clip from the yellow:black wire to the negative terminal on battery. Back to square one. No crank no start.


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    Leave everything as is.
    Move the shifter lever to Neutral if you have an automatic transmission and try to start the car.
    If you have a manual transmission the Clutch Safety switch could be bad which is a common problem.
    To bypass it you need to unplug the connector from the switch which is mounted in the transmission.
    You would jump the two wires at the plug then try to start the car. (MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL).

  2. #17
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    No crank in neutral. I also notice that the key in ignition bell (while door is open) dings then turns really weird then stops dinging all together. Really weird.


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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by berry1133@bellsouth.net View Post
    No crank in neutral. I also notice that the key in ignition bell (while door is open) dings then turns really weird then stops dinging all together. Really weird.


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    Put the transmission shifter back to Park.
    Do you have a volt meter?
    If you do back probe the small Yellow wire at the relay socket. Hold the key in the start position.
    Should be 12 volts DC in Start.

    If you don't have a volt meter reseat the 5 amp. Crank fuse located in the passenger side end of dash fuse box and see if the starter will engage.

  4. #19
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    No voltage at the small yellow wire while in start position.


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  5. #20
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    Pulled 5 amp crank fuse and it was blown. Put another in and it cranked right up.


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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by berry1133@bellsouth.net View Post
    No voltage at the small yellow wire while in start position.


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    That indicates the problem is in the neural safety switch which is bolted to the passenger side of the
    shifter or the Crank fuse is not making good contact in the fuse panel.

    Probably need two people.

    With the ignition switch held in the Start position you should measure 12 volts on the Crank fuse.
    If you do, the neutral safety switch is bad or the wire terminals at the switch need reseating or
    the P N switch needs adjusting.

  7. #22
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    So replacing the fuse got me up and running. Now I'm not sure how that explains the intermittent no crank, no start. I drove it to church this morning with no cranking issues. After church, no problem still. When I got home, I shut it down and attempted to crank again and nothing. This is the problem I've been dealing with for a while. If the fuse is the problem, it wouldn't crank at all. Right?


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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by berry1133@bellsouth.net View Post
    So replacing the fuse got me up and running. Now I'm not sure how that explains the intermittent no crank, no start. I drove it to church this morning with no cranking issues. After church, no problem still. When I got home, I shut it down and attempted to crank again and nothing. This is the problem I've been dealing with for a while. If the fuse is the problem, it wouldn't crank at all. Right?


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    I believe you have two problems.

    1) If the fuse was making bad contact in the fuse panel you could have an intermittent no crank because
    the starter relay would not energize. If the fuse was blown it could have been when you messed with the relay.

    2) If the Security light is coming on that would indicate the key pellet wasn't read properly.
    That could be a bad ignition key cylinder (a pair of stranded wires go bad. The wires twist every time you rotate the ignition key cylinder. This causes the CCM to read the wrong key pellet value.

    Most people don't replace a bad key cylinder because you need to get into the steering column.
    To bypass a bad ignition key cylinder that fails to read the key pellet properly.
    At the base of he steering column you disconnect the small two pin usually an Orange and White wire connector.
    Place a resistor across the male connector going back to the CCM. The value of the resistor is the same value as your key pellet.

    This is a Bubba fix and allows a car thief to break the ignition key cylinder and use a screw driver to
    start the car.

    The CCM could also be marginal where it doesn't ground the relay. You can leave the Yellow/Black wire
    permanently grounded. I believe some 92 and 93 CCM's did have intermittent problems grounding the starter enable relay. Permanently grounding the Yellow/Black wire will eliminate that problem.

    Here's a picture of the key cylinder.

    Last edited by ecss; 06-25-15 at 03:58 PM.

  9. #24
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    I think I'm going to do both the resistor across the male plug and the permanent ground of the yellow:black wire. I'm tired of fighting this issue. And, not really being able to enjoy the car with the fear lurking of not knowing if it will start or not. Any suggestions on where would be a good place to make the permanent ground? I really appreciate your help throughout my troubleshooting process. Especially with it being Father's Day. So, a BIG thanks once again and HAPPY FATHER'S DAY if you're a dad. Thanks!!!


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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by berry1133@bellsouth.net View Post
    I think I'm going to do both the resistor across the male plug and the permanent ground of the yellow:black wire. I'm tired of fighting this issue. And, not really being able to enjoy the car with the fear lurking of not knowing if it will start or not. Any suggestions on where would be a good place to make the permanent ground? I really appreciate your help throughout my troubleshooting process. Especially with it being Father's Day. So, a BIG thanks once again and HAPPY FATHER'S DAY if you're a dad. Thanks!!!


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    On the diagnostic connector you pull the codes from, splice into the wire for Pin A which is ground and run the other end of the wire and splce it to the Yellow/Black wire at the starter enable relay socket. No need to cut the Yellow/Black wire.

    For the key cylinder bypass you can purchase the correct resistor on e-bay for $3.00 shipped. The kit contains the 15 possible resistance values.

    Disconnect the two pin plug at the base of the steering column. At the connector end that goes back to the CCM solder the resistor across the two wires. Leave the plug disconnected.

    Link below where to buy the resistors.

    Picture of the diagnostic connector shows pin A

    Directed Electronics 652T GM General Motors Vats Resistor Pack Bypass Kit 15 PK | eBay

    Last edited by ecss; 06-21-15 at 05:31 PM.

  11. #26
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    Thanks again.!!!! Resistors have been ordered and permanent ground is in place. You're awesome!!!!


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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by berry1133@bellsouth.net View Post
    Ok. Took the jumper off. Ran gator clip from the yellow:black wire to the negative terminal on battery. Back to square one. No crank no start.


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    Are you saying you removed the jumper you grounded the Yellow/Black wire to
    and grounded the wire to Pin A of the diagnostic connector and now it does not work?

    With the Yellow/Black wire grounded.
    Back probe the small yellow wire at the relay socket.
    Do you measure 12 volts when the ignition switch is in start?

    No 12 volts verify there is 12 volts at the Crank fuse when the ignition switch is in Start
    If yoi have 12 volts at the Crank fuse the PN switch is bad needs adjustment or the wires
    need to be reseated at the PN switch under the console.

    If the Crank fuse is blown most likely the wiring that goes to the Park/Neutral switch is shorted
    out under the center console.
    Last edited by ecss; 06-21-15 at 06:34 PM.

  13. #28
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    I'm sorry. That was from earlier today when we were troubleshooting. I'm all set now with the yellow:black wire grounded to the A terminal. I will add the resistors when they come in. She's cranking and running now. Thanks to you.


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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by berry1133@bellsouth.net View Post
    i'm sorry. That was from earlier today when we were troubleshooting. I'm all set now with the yellow:black wire grounded to the a terminal. I will add the resistors when they come in. She's cranking and running now. Thanks to you.


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    ok :d

  15. #30
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    I'm sorry. That was from earlier today when we were troubleshooting. I'm all set now with the yellow:black wire grounded to the A terminal. I will add the resistors when they come in. She's cranking and running now. Thanks to you.


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