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  • no fire, after hydro-locking
  • no fire, after hydro-locking
  • no fire, after hydro-locking
  • no fire, after hydro-locking

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  1. #1
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    Default no fire, after hydro-locking

    My 93 was hydro-locking when trying to start,put newfuel pump, injectors,filter, and cleaned lines. Now after all that now has no fire put on new coil still no fire. After new fuel parts seems not to be hydro-locking,ppossibly have ecm problem, or coil module? Can anyone out there in computer land help? Please help!

  2. #2
    Technical Writer for Internet & Print Media
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    Default

    "Hydro-lock" means the engine has either water or liquid fuel in the combustion chambers.

    If that's the case, you need to figure out why the engine is hyrdo-locked and fix that problem first.

    Severe hydro-lock will damage the engine. It can break pistons and bend connecting rods. If you have that kind of engine damage, that might by why it won't start.

    On the other hand, slow cranking during starting is sometimes misidentified as hydro-locking. If this is a case of slow cranking coupled with a no-start condition, there are many reasons for why. I'd consult the Service Manual for trouble shooting information on those two topics. The manual's discussion of "cranks but won't run" is a good place to start.

  3. #3
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    Default thank you hib

    My engine was locking up with fuel,as soon as it would happen i would stop pull the plugs, drain the oil, with the plugs out fill with oil, then rotate engine over to circulate oil. Acouple of times it would start idle 15 seconds then die, i found the screen in the tank was detiorated bad , replaced,sinse got new fuel system with plugs out, and new oil it hasn't done again. But no fire now.I replced coil, but no fix thats where i am now. THANK YOU for trying to help me!

  4. #4
    Gone but not forgotten John Robinson's Avatar
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    Default

    With all the wires and connectors you have pulled apart you need to check every one of the wires to be sure you did not break them. The wires are very fragile and will break easily. It seems that for some reason the wiring harness was not bullet proof and after nearly 20 years they will fail. On my 93 I have had to rewire the TPS connector, MAF connector and trace all of there wires back to the bundles of ground wires they are in and redo the ground bundle. The ground bundle was just wrapped in black electrical tape and had moisture and corrosion in it. In case you did not know the ground values is what the ECM reads to determine what the sensors are doing and from that data it choses what to adjust and when to go to closed loop etc. Now here is the cute part GM ran several sensors into a common ground stack. For instance the temp sensor on the water pump along with the TPS the Maf the air sensor in the the fresh air tube to the Throttle body and the electrical connector on top of the opti all go to a common ground under the enjector cover on the passenger side of the engine. Keep in mind with this system all it can tell you is there is a problem in a circuit such as the tps or the opti. That does not mean that they are bad only that the ECM is not getting the proper signal from that area. That signal is dependant on the condition of the wires, the grounds. etc. If you do not have one yet before you put any more new parts on the car you need to get a FSM (Field Service Manual 2 volumes) Things like the opti have a bad rep because people did not understand how the ECM collected data. I am one of those who popped for an ECM only to not have it fix my problem. The real problem was a $20 sensor. I too have been down the expensive repair road and now I have an FSM and do my own thinking and follow the charts in the fsm to find the cheap but correct solution and not the throw parts at it till it runs approach.

  5. #5
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    Default Thanks so much mr. Robinson

    You sound like a true professional i am going to follow your advice to a T.

    THANK YOU SO MUCH,

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