Amsoil at Dealer Cost!

**Edmond** · 07-19-07, 10:47 PM

Hi,

With approval from Rob to post this, I am offering all Amsoil products at dealer price. I signed up for an Amsoil dealership a few months ago and never really had the time to do much with it. I figured that I would offer it here to the CAC faithful. Why am I offering Amsoil at cost to the CAC? I’m trying to get the business off the ground and this is a feeler to what kind of demand there is to Amsoil. If I can be successful at it, I wrote Rob that I would become a paid advertiser in the future. If you have any questions, contact me through e-mail at Edmond.edmondlau@gmail.com and I will answer all your questions promptly.

SSO Signature Series 0W-30
$8.10/quart
$92.25/12 quart case
$31.90/1 gallon container

XL Synthetic Motor Oils 7,500 Mile Oil
5W-20/5W-30/10W-30/10W-40
$5.20/quart
$59.25/12 quart case
$20.35/1 gallon container

100% Synthetic Motor Oils
0W-20
$7.00/quart
$79.95/12 quart case
$27.60/1 gallon container

5W-30/10W-30
$6.75/quart
$76.65/12 quart case
$27.60/1 gallon container

10W-40 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
$8.00/quart
$90.90/12 quart case
$31.40/1 gallon container

20W-50 Advanced Synthetic Motorcycle Oil
$8.25/quart
$93.90/12 quart case
$32.45/1 gallon container

Synthetic Universal Transmission Fluid
$7.50/quart
$85.65/12 quart case
$29.60/1 gallon container
$112.60/4 gallon case

Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 GL-4
$9.95/quart
$113.25/12 quart case

Amsoil air and oil filters are also available. Just go to www.amsoil.com and check for your application. There are dozens of air/oil filters available.

Air filters range from $26.00 to $36.15. ?Amsoil air filters are rated for 4 years or 100,000 miles.

Amsoil oil filters are fully synthetic and are rated for 1 year or 25,000 miles of normal driving or 15,000 miles of severe use (towing, extreme temps., etc) Oil filters range from $11.65 to $17.65. Motorcycle oil filters are also available.

P.I. Performance Improver Gasoline Additive
$7.85/12-oz. bottle
$89.45/case of 12 12-oz. bottles

Engine Flush
$4.35/16-oz. bottle
$49.50/case of 12 16-oz. bottles

Anchorage, AK
Chicago, IL
Columbus, OH
Dallas, TX
Lancaster, PA
Las Vegas, NV
Orlando, FL
Portland, OR
Richmond, VA
Superior, WI
Wichita, KS

**Edmond** · 07-20-07, 07:38 AM

If you want a complete price list, it's in Excel format. Just e-mail me for it: edmond.edmondlau@gmail.com

Regarding payment: if you're in the Chicagoland area, we can meet at the distribution center in Wheeling. You can pay any way that you'd like. I can take checks, money orders or PayPal. However, if you use PayPal, I will have to charge an extra 3% due to the fact that I am charged 3% to receive money from them.

**LT4man** · 07-20-07, 11:07 AM

Edmund, I am glad to see you hooking up with Amsoil. I started using Amsoil at my shop in 1975. Long time ago! I used it even after I sold my shop. I was never a distributor, so, finally, I lost touch with the fella I was dealing with. Murrays in Chicagoland was selling some Amsoil products about two years ago. They stopped selling them recently. Except for the transmission fluid, which I believe, is spec'd to be used in ANY domestic vehicle. Correct me if I am wrong!

Compared to all the other synthetics out there (and I have personally tried most of them) I believe Amsoil is absolutely the BEST oil anyone can buy!

SAVE THE

**Edmond** · 07-20-07, 04:39 PM

LT4Man,

1975? I was born in '79.

I don't know if I'd be so broad to say any AT but it does cover these:

GM Dexron II, III & IV
Ford Mercon, Mercon V & SP
Chrysler ATF+ thru ATF+4
Honda Z-1 (not CVT Trans)
Toyota Type T & T-IV
Mitsubishi/Hyundai Daimond SP-II & III
Allison C-3, C-4
Caterpillar TO-2
Voith G607 & G1363
ZF TE-ML 14A, B & C
MB 236.1, 236.2, 236.6, 236.7 and 236.9
BMW 7045E
NAG 1 & 2
JWS 3309
ESSO LT 71141
Nissan Matic D, J & K
Vickers I 286S & M 2950S

Okay, so maybe you're right!

Anytime you or anyone you know in the Chicagoland area need Amsoil, let me know. If time allows, I'll even deliver to you guys.

**MsSchroder** · 07-21-07, 09:04 PM

This is good to know, Edmond. We run amsoil in most of the cars and all of the bikes. I think Phil just ordered a case, but when it runs out I'll contact you.

Ttammy

**Edmond** · 07-23-07, 01:20 AM

Decided to conduct a little oil test of my own…

I decided on 8 different types of oil. 6 of them are full synthetic and the last 2 are dino oil. The contenders are:

1. Super Tech dino for $1.54

2. Super Tech full synthetic for $2.97

3. Mobil Clean 5000 dino for $2.22

4. Quaker State Advanced full synthetic $4.97

5. Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic $5.99

6. Royal Purple High Performance synthetic $6.99

7. Mobil 1 full synthetic $6.00

8. Amsoil 100% synthetic $7.99

All oils are 10W-30.

I placed a small amount of oil into a 12 cup muffin EZ Baker Pro pan as shown:

I was going to put this in a Weber Genesis grill and heat it up to see how each oil would react to the heat. Keep in mind that this was totally unscientific and very impromptu. I wanted to see how each oil would react to a few cycles of heat after a short cool down period.

Here are the results:

6:48pm. The grill was turned on. I put two aluminum foil sheets underneath the muffin pan just in case any spilled over.

25 minutes later, the grill reached an interior temperature of 500 degrees.

These are pictures of what the oils looked like afterwards:

Here are oils 1 & 2:

Here are oils 3 & 4:

Here are oils 5 & 6:

Here are oils 7 & 8:

The oils don’t look that much different than they were right out of the bottle. Of course, you really can’t judge the effectively of the oil just by the look of it. I put the screws in there to see how the oil would drip off the screws and also as a point of focus for the camera.

I pretty much guessed that all the oils would appear to hold up well in the first cycle so I put it through a second trial. Again, I took the temperature up to 500 degrees.

7:50pm. The grill was turned on. 33 minutes later, the temperature reached 500 degrees.

Here are the results:

As you can see, some of the oils are starting to look a little stressed.

Here are some individual shots:

Super Tech dino:

Some of this cheap stuff has started to burn away. It seems like it has lost a considerable amount of volume since the first test. You can see the head of the screw already.

Super Tech synthetic:

This held up decently well.

Mobil Clean 5,000:

This was a real surprise to me. For an oil where they guarantee you 5,000 miles out of, it burned out awfully quick. I guess you have to keep topping it off?

Quaker State Advanced full synthetic:

Looks pretty good to me!

Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic:

Kind of dirty looking, I was expecting it to look better for an oil that costs $5.99 per quart.

Royal Purple:

Another closer shot of Royal Purple:

I really couldn’t believe how that goop just built up around the wall inside of the muffin pan with the Royal Purple stuff. For oil that costs $6.99 a quart, it looked like it reacted worse to the second cycle than the oils that cost less.

Mobil 1:

Looks dirty and the oil volume looked like it dropped by quite a bit. I believe this has been the factory fill oil for Corvette since the mid 1990’s.

Amsoil:

Looks pretty good, not much loss and it looks like it’s held up decently.

After we started to see some more noticeable changes to the oil after the second test, we went ahead with a third time of bringing the temperature inside the grill to 500 degrees so we could see how it would react.

8:38pm. We turned the grill on and let it go all the way to 500 degrees.

Here is a picture of what happened after I opened the grill lid:

Every single oil caught on fire just seconds after I opened the grill lid. I shut the grill lid thinking that the lack of oxygen would choke the flames out. But that didn’t happen. In fact, the interior of the grill got hotter. It rose to 600 degrees before I, fearing damage to the grill, opened the lid again. The flames had never went out and it just got hotter in the grill.

Now each oil was burning.

Here is a close up of some of the higher end oils (I only took close ups of those because I expected those to do better than the lower priced oils):

Amsoil on fire:

The Amsoil was on fire but there wasn’t much bubbling and the oil looked pretty good. To the left of the Amsoil was the Mobil 1. You can see how it didn’t seem to react as well to the fire as Amsoil.

Royal Purple on fire:

The Royal Purple looked like the Mobil 1 in the sense that it didn’t seem to react well to fire.

9:13pm. The oils caught on fire and these are the times and order that each oil went out by itself:

9:20pm. Mobil 5,000.
9:21pm. Super Tech dino.
9:22pm. Super Tech synthetic.
9:24pm. Royal Purple.
9:25pm. Mobil 1.
9:25pm. Pennzoil.
9:26pm. Quaker State.
9:39pm. Amsoil.

The Amsoil burned for 26 minutes after it caught on fire, 13 minutes longer than the next to last (Quaker State) and 19 minutes after the first (Mobil 5,000).

Here are shots of each oil after they burned out:

Super Tech dino:

Super Tech synthetic:

Mobil 5,000:

Quaker State:

Pennzoil:

Royal Purple:

Mobil 1:

Amsoil:

And here is a group shot:

Conclusion:

My neighbor was a die hard believer in Royal Purple and Mobil 1. After this test, he cursed the way that Royal Purple and Mobil 1 handled the heat. In fact, we bet before the test that if Amsoil came out on top, he would switch over. If Royal Purple or Mobil 1 came out on top, I would buy dinner. He went home with his head down. A couple other of my neighbors were over and they found the experiment to be interesting.

I was especially disappointed in the way that Royal Purple reacted to the heat. I’m not a mechanic or engineer but I doubt that engine oil temperatures would get to 500+ degrees. But I’m not taking any chances. Even though the temperatures were extreme, the exposure was for a relatively short period of time, definitely much shorter than the life span of what one would expect from their engine. But I would also figure that even though the oil in your car should never reach 500+ degrees, it would probably be near 200 degrees or so for a much longer period of time. I was always told that heat and debris are enemies of engine oil. The air filter and oil filter stop debris but they don’t really seem to factor in much when it comes to the heat.

What do you guys think?

**Mac** · 07-23-07, 02:19 AM

Oh.... when your mother sees what you've done with her muffin tins...

-Mac

ps: good luck with your venture!

**LT4man** · 07-23-07, 09:41 AM

Mobil 1 was made the factory fill for Corvette in 1992 with the introduction of the LT1 engine. The engine oil cooler which was always installed with the earlier L98 engine was eliminated because of the use of synthetic oil. This freed up valuable space in the engine compartment.

I have never been "sold" on Mobil 1. The fact it is the factory fill only means Mobil pays money to GM for that privilege.

SAVE THE

**Edmond** · 08-11-07, 10:29 AM

Just wanted to let everyone know that a price increase is on the horizon in October.

Also, if you're close to a warehouse, I can order it and you can pick it up directly at the warehouse. No shipping that way!

**6 Shooter** · 08-11-07, 10:49 AM

WOW Edmond - Very Interesting test, the next time I plan on running my engine up-to 500 degrees I'll remember this info!

L8TR - D

**Redtorcher** · 01-19-08, 06:34 AM

Hmmmm..I think India's new Nano mini has a muffin motor!

Altered · 01-19-08, 11:02 AM

Looks like my wifes cooking.

Seriously though nice experiment. Me personally I don't doubt Amsoil oil is good stuff. I have been using Royal Purple for several years in drag cars and although the muffin pan looked bad I have never seen anything that even resembles that in any of my engines. Not to mention the 8 to 10 guys that I race with. All but 3 of us build our own I will admit we all run Methanol and do not run extended mileage with our engines at 500 deg. When we swapped to RP we went from having to change oil each race to 1 oil change mid season and probably could skip that as the oil looks great. However my 06 Truck does go 5000 give or take 500 miles at a time and its always been very clean no lumps etc. in it. I don't sell oil or represent any oil co. in any way I'm just speaking from experience I have had. I guess the formula is designed to run at the more normal engine running temps ??? I'm no engineer thats for sure.

Good Luck