1982 Crossfire Stalling. Step inside!
I'm working on an 82 with 68k actual miles. Car ran beautiflly up until about 2 weeks ago.
The issue: The car will start cold or hot and idle fine. A little on the high side at first but the RPM's do come down. It will run and idle fine for about a minute, then start running rough, rich I suspect judging from the black smoke and rich exhaust smell. It will keep doing this and will die. I cannot keep it running with the gas pedal.
Restart the car, coughs momentarily, then idles fine for about 60 seconds than dies in the same fashion. I can repeat this all night if I wanted to. I've got a book of receipts and came across one for replacement injectors to correct a stalling issue. I would think if it was an injector issue the car would run rich all the time. So the plan is to see what is changing and causing the car to run poorly. EGR perhaps?
I'm like a fish out of water working on this thing. Any help is appreciated. Until then, I'll be searching like crazy.
The SES light is not on, and I know it works. My next step is to retireive any stored codes. I'll post them up when I do.
i would change the coolant sensor in the front of the intake .it sends the temp signal to the computer.
I had an idle/run problem with my 82/CE. The problem was the connection of the TPS position signal between the harness connector and the computer itself. The CPU side was a PC board style edge connector with copper foil contacts and the fault was with either the CPU contacts or the connector pin. I cleaned and retinned all of the PC board contacts and slid each pin out of its connector and cleaned them as well. Ran great for many years after that. That is a bad design for longevity...FYI the same style connection as in the early digital pinball games. Those connections are always at fault as well.
Thanks for the suggestions. There were no fault codes stored. I did notice however, that when I would start the motor the battery light was on longer than I felt it should have been. Then when the motor did start to stumble, it came on again.
I did have the doors open for a good time while working, but never gave it a thought as the car always started strong. I put the charger on over night, and I've had no issues with it since. I'll look at wiring and connectors visually.
I don't recall if a code was set for me or not. The CPU was getting a signal, just not enough of one to correctly control the throttle response. Cleaning those connections cannot hurt and just might help, if all else fails.
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