I changed mine at 3000 miles the first time and then every time I change my oil .I change my oil @60-70%.
Pretty simple just use a Turkey baster ,get all you can ,re-fill and pump the clutch.Do the procedure three times .You won't get it all out but enough .I use Valvoline (sp?)
Most importantly rinse the turkey baster well before your wife catches ya.
OP~ I can't say what your "noise" is but chances are, it's the clutch packs in the rearend. There's a TSB for this.
The clutch resevior under the hood is a different issue. As vett boy stated above, to minimize "sticking clutch pedal" syndrome, you might want to change the res fluid often. The fluid oxidizes because the line from the rez to the slave passes too close to the exhaust manifold. There is no fluid that doesn't turn black. There are some fluids that last longer than others, but the problem remains. Insulating the fluid line is a big help, but it isn't a cure.
Ranger on CF has a good bit of info on this.
Black fluid - my 2008 did that and around 11K miles, the clutch went to the floor and stayed there. New clutch, master and slave cylinder and fresh fluid later, it was back on the road.
I'm not sure if the 'black' fluid is the problem or the slave cylinder that allows the fluid to go black. Either way, I was not happy.
I've got 25k on it know and it's still working.
Author: Crossbow Revenge
(Buy my book and make me famous!)
Clutch fluid does 2 things.
Transfers pedal pressure to the slave cylinder.
Lubricate seals and pistons.
The blackness is carbon black that leaches from the rubber seal into the fluid. It does not cause the sticking pedal condition nor does it create reliability concerns.
The problems occur when the lubricity of the fluid is NOT adequate the either lubricate or the moisture contamination boils the fluid due to excessive heat.
There are at least 3 different reason for the clutch pedal sticking.
None of them are for clutch fluid that is turned black.
Clutch pressure plate finger installed height differences or clutch material on the concentric slave cylinder creating a binding condition.
The last is fluid boiling.
This is one of the largest reasons why people need to be educated as to the correct service intervals that GM released a while back.
Every 2 years, the clutch fluid should be changed with DOT 4 Brake fluid.
And your noise is most likely the differential.
if you have a bike or quad with a translucent brake master cylinder you see the same thing,the fluid turns dark in a short peroid of time. i have heard it come from the mold release used for the rubber parts and that is the same reason your tires turn brown
retired race engine builder,former NASCAR tech inspector,corvette owner since 1959, new corvettes owned,59,62,63,64,65,66,97,99,02,05, 2008 is in my garage, 2008 sold and waiting for my C-7
Originally Posted by motorman
Wow thanks for info, that's what C4C5 said also....must be gospel....
Thanks for all replies....tim
Sent you a pm. Thanks Paul
Originally Posted by c4c5specialist
By RMJones in forum C4 Technical and Performance
Last Post: 05-19-09, 12:35 AM
By NC2Stay in forum C4 General Discussion
Last Post: 07-29-06, 01:17 PM
By 1981 in forum C3 Technical and Performance
Last Post: 01-25-05, 04:29 PM
By slashnick in forum C4 Technical and Performance
Last Post: 02-08-04, 02:09 PM
By larryfs in forum C4 Technical and Performance
Last Post: 10-04-02, 09:17 AM
Owned and Operated by © 2000-2015 Corvette Action Center | |
© CORVETTE is a registered trademark of the General Motors Corporation & Chevrolet Motor Division. Neither Chevrolet Motor Division nor any subsidiaries of GM© shall bear any responsibility for CorvetteActionCenter.com content, comments, or advertising. CorvetteActionCenter.com is independent from GM© and is not affiliated with, sponsored or supported by GM©. Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended, or implied. All Rights Reserved