- 2 Post By Hib Halverson
In the near future, I'm looking to put a procharger on my 2001 Z06. I also heard somebody mention they put one in a d blew the engine the first time. I'll be putting on long pipe headers with a cross pipe. I'm already running with B&B route 66 mufflers and a hurricane cold air induction system. Is there anything else that I need to do to the engine to handle the extra HP?.
Watch how tight ya twist the screw!
Technical Writer for Internet & Print Media
I guess the definition of "handle the extra HP" is the key here.
Most people shopping for superchargers are doing so on too small a budget.
If you want that engine to be durable and capable of long pulls at WOT there are some mods you need to do which are, unfortunately, expensive.
1) Convert to forged pistons with a slightly lower compression ratio.
2) Have the car professionally calibrated
3) Install a higher-capacity, aftermarket radiator and go to a 180 thermostat
4) Install a charge air cooler.
Most people aren't going to want to spend the extra 3-5 grand or so for those kinds of engine mods.
If you're just going to bolt on the blower and go
1) Stay conservative on boost
2) Don't go WOT for long periods only short "squirts".
3) Get a handheld tuner from the supercharger maker.
Technical Writer for Internet & Print Media
It's unlikely the torque tube will fail but the driveshaft which is inside surely can...as can the transmission. But, with a centrifugal supercharger like the ProCharger, it's unlikely you'll have an immediate problem as long as you don't do a lot of standing starts. So that and the life of the trans and rear axle will be decreased. Add sticky tires and their reliability/durability will be even less.
Bottom line, a supercharger bolted onto an otherwise stock engine may limit the engine's reliability and durability and, if it does, the amount of that magnitude of that limiting will be influenced by how often the car gets run hard, how much boost, gasoline quality and the severity and frequency of driveline torque spikes.
Agreed. In checking this potential a bit deeper, it appears (at least according to this after-market parts supplier) that the weakest links are the OEM rubber 'biscuits' that are installed at either end of the C5 driveshaft. If these have become deteriorated through use and/or age, the driveshaft may separate from one end or the other, potentially leading to vehicle damage. And a horsepower increase could increase the likelihood of failure in 10+ year-old 'biscuits.'
Originally Posted by Hib Halverson
Just something else for the OP to keep in mind as he proceeds with his engine modifications...
1998 Aztec Gold #15||| 2004 Millennium Yellow
I have seen many blown LS series engines trashed in one way or another. Most, by far, have been stock, or near stock. Abusing a motor, stock or modified, will result in an expensive lesson. Simply installing slicks and launching imprudently can easily take out the rear end, and the more power you have, the easier it is to generate a bad result. A turbo or supercharged Vette can be perfectly fine if you understand the limitations of the mechanical pieces subject to the all the power you can put to it. My Vette mechanic back in Arizona could tell me what system or part could fail at any point in a mod program. He knew because he made his living fixing what people broke.
There are times for thinking, and times for acting, but the art is in the balance
I wouldn't drive it any further than a Dyno to get it tuned first. You will want to remap the fuel ratios across the board. A good tuner is a must. 35K miles on my PC and I Love it!
Have your system professionally installed. Make sure the business that is installing has done many successful installations on C5's. Make sure it is dyno tuned and use a safe tune. A safe tune is one that you can beat on it all day and nothing will get hurt. It may not be the peak horsepower number you are looking for but your car will last a long time. Dont get too sticky a tire or you will risk breaking rear end components, axles, tranny, rear end etc... You will need long tube headers, at least an LS6 intake, your pistons will be alright with a safe tune. I have buddies running 600 horse on stock pistons for thousands of miles and no issues as long as you use good gas or methanol injection. Dont get involved in methanol it's just another thing to worry about. If you are about 500 hp it is more than plenty to wipe out most competitors and if not careful it will wipe you out too. It is also a good time to change out the cam since so many components are off of the front of the engine that it is feasible to take advantage of the labor that has been done and just add a little additional to swap cam. It will add you at least 50 horse, also new springs etc.. since the cam will be bigger and you can rev higher. automatics will dyno lower hp numbers since it cannot lock up like a stick, dynojet dynos give higher hp numbers than mustang dynos..(it's just a way to measure power).. My car dynoed 525hp on a mustang dyno with auto transmission and i walked by a so called 560 hp dynoed stick car that had dyno sheets with a dynojet machine. Just for kicks I dynoed my car on a dynojet and it made 570 rwhp. these numbers are not written in stone. dont get caught up and be a dyno bench racer. You will also need a new larger radiator.
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