Experience with "DiabloSport Tuners"

[4 the ride]

Ok Hib, and others who responded to my "DiabloSport" post last week.

I found a fellow in Traverse City, MI. who runs an auto fabrication business specializing primarily in Acura NSX's. He recently purchased a Mustang Dyno and is in the process of building a NSX race car for a run up Pikes Peak this July. Clearly his experience lies in the area of asian imports but he is in the process of building a 1000+ HP Camaro for a customer and has tuned LS motored Pontiac GTO's recently. Most importantly, he's close by and very easy to work with. At any rate, I took my 04 Z06 in yesterday and he spent some four hours running it up on the dyno and tuning. He uses a software suite from an internet based company called "EFI Live," apparently they are headquartered in Australia. He initially concluded that it was "lean" as the OBD2 had indicated but only in the lower and mid range, apparently it wasn't lean at the high end. He said that the fuel trim was at nearly 20%. At the end of the day, it dynoed at 375 hp at the wheels. It drove great, as it seemed to with the piece of duct tape over the top half of the filter element (I removed this first) and seemed to accelerate briskly. However, after approximately 20 miles the @%$%& "check engine light" returned. He had warned me that this may occur and if it did to bring it back and he would fix it. When I spoke to him this morning he said to give him a couple of days to do some research and then bring it back.

Do you, or anyone else that is monitoring this dialog, know what specific parameters he should adjust to eliminate this recurring lean code problem? He was fair in his fee and is very willing to work with me on this. I simply want to guide him in the right direction if I can.

[4 the ride]

[QUOTE=4 the ride;1101173]Ok Hib, and others who responded to my "DiabloSport" post last week.

JUST WENT OUT AND READ THE CODES - They're different codes! Maybe another problem as a result of the tuning. New codes are as follows: 1 of 2 - P0101 Vaf Ckt Range/Perf and 2 of 2 - Maf or Vaf Ckt Range/Perf.

[catbert]

Your tuner is using software that isn't really mainstream, and he needs help interpreting the results - what could possibly go wrong? Seriously, HP tuners and a couple other packages are the only ones I've seen used on the LX series, and there is a reason for that. Sounds like it's OJT for him, but I won't say any more. I hope someone else can help you. If any group can do it, it's CAC. Good luck.

[SANOLS1]

Just a thought, After doing a series of High RPM engine pulls on the dyno, perhaps you have actually fouled the MAF. Easy things first, try cleaning it with MAF cleaner and make sure your new Green Filter is not over oiled. I have yet to have this problem on my Vette but I've had it numerous times on my Silferado. A good MAF cleaning solved the problem every time. I would usually get the fault a week or so after cleaning the K&N filter and re-oiling it.

[4 the ride]

Your tuner is using software that isn't really mainstream, and he needs help interpreting the results - what could possibly go wrong? Seriously, HP tuners and a couple other packages are the only ones I've seen used on the LX series, and there is a reason for that. Sounds like it's OJT for him, but I won't say any more. I hope someone else can help you. If any group can do it, it's CAC. Good luck.

Yeah, I took a risk and perhaps I will pay. Hope not though as I believe he really is going to stick with it until we get it right. Stay tuned. Good information.

Thanks

[4 the ride]

Just a thought, After doing a series of High RPM engine pulls on the dyno, perhaps you have actually fouled the MAF. Easy things first, try cleaning it with MAF cleaner and make sure your new Green Filter is not over oiled. I have yet to have this problem on my Vette but I've had it numerous times on my Silferado. A good MAF cleaning solved the problem every time. I would usually get the fault a week or so after cleaning the K&N filter and re-oiling it.

Thanks, I too thought of this and will try. VaraRam swears that the oil on the Green Filters won't do this but who knows. I didn't look to be over oiled but this is the route we will take first. After about a half dozen pulls on the dyno it's entirely possible.

[Hib Halverson]

[QUOTE=4 the ride;1101181]

Ok Hib, and others who responded to my "DiabloSport" post last week.

JUST WENT OUT AND READ THE CODES - They're different codes! Maybe another problem as a result of the tuning. New codes are as follows: 1 of 2 - P0101 Vaf Ckt Range/Perf and 2 of 2 - Maf or Vaf Ckt Range/Perf.

Ok, so for now, the system is not lean, or....it's not so lean as to set a fault code. From what you say in the post before the above, about the guy in Traverse, it sounds like the system is still lean at part throttle and that's what sets lean exhaust codes, once the system is adding all the fuel its LTFT range allows.

DTC P0101 is a fault code for the MAF. The Service Manual discussion of this is rather lengthy but in short, 0101 will set if the MAF sensor sends data that doesn't agree with the predicted airflow as suggested by the ECM's MAP, IAT, ECT and RPM inputs. Keep in mind that the range of expected MAF signals is, to a certain extent, governed by how the ECM and the MAF are calibrated.

This code may set of the MAF is faulty due to contamination (oil, dirt, scummy stuff...whatever). It also can set if there's an air leak between the MAF and the engine. It can set because of various electrical issues. It can set if there has been water intrusion or ingestion. It can set if the throttle body is gummed-up. It can set due to RFI. It can set if the induction system is restricted. It can set of air flow though the MAF is greatly enhanced over stock and the calibration is not correct at part throttle and below 4000 rpm.

What I'd do is connect a scan tester and get the failure records and not them. Then clear codes and road test. If the code resets and there are none of the diagnostic issues per the FSM in re: P0101 other than the aftermarket intake system present, then I'd take it back to the dyno service and ask them to tune the part throttle such that the LTFTs are a little closer to zero.

I'll add that with my 04 Z06, I had this code set one time after I reverted to the stock MAF and filter assy after using a aftermarket MAF and filter assy. Originally, I had calibrated for the GMS parts but when I went back to stock, I got a P0101 along with the two lean exhaust codes P0174, 0175. I recal'ed the part throttle, again, and so far no codes.

As I said earlier, this engine controls cal s&%t ain't easy.

Lastly, with all due respect to my drinking buddy, Catbert, "EFI Live" is not obscure tuning software. While it is true the people who publish the software are in Australia and that HP Tuners has received a lot of attention, there are a number of tuners who use EFI Live. Currently I use HPT but I've been thinking about trying EFI Live just so I can become familiar with it.

[4 the ride]

Thanks again Hib. I just cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner and checked the codes again. Now, bear in mind that I had shut it off and restarted once since my last post on the codes indicated. Once I cleaned and reinstalled the MAF I plugged in the OBD2 Scanner and it only showed one code "P0101 - MAF or VAF CKT Range/Perf. Don't know what happened to the other one but this is all that displayed. Also, I noted no visible film or deposits anywhere on the MAF or in the air passages. No more driving today but will take it out again tomorrow.

On a related point, if in fact a contaminated MAF does turn out to be the problem, how might this impact my dyno tune? I'm thinking that you are right, he needs to richen up the LT-MT range and this should handle it.

[Hib Halverson]

Thanks again Hib. I just cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner and checked the codes again. Now, bear in mind that I had shut it off and restarted once since my last post on the codes indicated. Once I cleaned and reinstalled the MAF I plugged in the OBD2 Scanner and it only showed one code "P0101 - MAF or VAF CKT Range/Perf. Don't know what happened to the other one but this is all that displayed. Also, I noted no visible film or deposits anywhere on the MAF or in the air passages. No more driving today but will take it out again tomorrow.

On a related point, if in fact a contaminated MAF does turn out to be the problem, how might this impact my dyno tune? I'm thinking that you are right, he needs to richen up the LT-MT range and this should handle it.

I just want to make sure I read the above right...

You cleaned the MAF, reinstalled it and immediately saw that code, again?

After you cleaned the MAF but before you started the engine, did you clear codes?

Also, I just remembered, the 02-04 Z06es had a special MAF with no flow-straightener. Does the VaraRam you have use a straight duct between the filter assy and the MAF or is the duct curved or has a bend in it?

[4 the ride]

I just want to make sure I read the above right...

You cleaned the MAF, reinstalled it and immediately saw that code, again?

After you cleaned the MAF but before you started the engine, did you clear codes?

Also, I just remembered, the 02-04 Z06es had a special MAF with no flow-straightener. Does the VaraRam you have use a straight duct between the filter assy and the MAF or is the duct curved or has a bend in it?

I saw the check engine light on the way home from running an errand, pulled in the drive and shut it off. Latter, I pulled the codes and found the two referenced earlier P0101 VAF CKT Range/Perf and P0101 MAF or VAF Range/Perf. Latter I pulled it in the garage and shut it down. Ran to the auto parts store, came home with the cleaner, took it off and cleaned it, replaced it and BEFORE I STARTED IT, read out the codes and there was only the second one, see above, there. I then cleared them in anticipation of some road time tomorrow.

The VaraRam ducts directly into the MAF sensor, about two inches away from it. It's all in a straight line to the throttle body. This is a car with only 16,000 miles on it, everything is very clean.

[Hib Halverson]

Post what happens after your next road test.

[DrNavyRet]

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I am curious as to why someone would buy a Diablo Predator when they are "old tech" according to Diablo web site as it is replaced by the Diablo InTune (I1000). The web site is selling out the Predator for 309 but you need to add the interface for 49.99 or 359 bucks. The Diablo InTune costs 399 and comes with the interface. So for 40 more dollars, you have a tuner that does more and is applicable to many more vehicles than the old Predator. Then I see a vendor selling the Predator for 369 and then you add the interface as well as the new Diablo Trinity; no mention of the I1000. Can anyone shed some info or knwledge regarding these units? It's like everyone is confused, including me and including vendors???

[4 the ride]

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I am curious as to why someone would buy a Diablo Predator when they are "old tech" according to Diablo web site as it is replaced by the Diablo InTune (I1000). The web site is selling out the Predator for 309 but you need to add the interface for 49.99 or 359 bucks. The Diablo InTune costs 399 and comes with the interface. So for 40 more dollars, you have a tuner that does more and is applicable to many more vehicles than the old Predator. Then I see a vendor selling the Predator for 369 and then you add the interface as well as the new Diablo Trinity; no mention of the I1000. Can anyone shed some info or knwledge regarding these units? It's like everyone is confused, including me and including vendors???

THANKS, Yeah, I caught this, in fact the sales guy at DiabloSport dissuaded me from buying a Predator and turned me on to the "InTune" and Diablew, who is one of their preferred vendors. Turns out, I won't be buying one after all, at least not now.

Regards

[4 the ride]

Post what happens after your next road test.

Hib,

I took it out today and drove about 25 miles. Ran it up to 6000 rpm in second and third, nothing happened and it seems strong. So, did my MAF cleaning work? I don't know yet but if the check engine light doesn't come back next week when I will be driving it more, we may know the reason. I did notice a slight bucking around 1500 - 2000rpm as I backed off the throttle but very light. May mean that the light will come back as I drive it more. I will revert next week. Oh, BTW, it was in the 80's here today and this may have helped keep it from tripping over the line.

Regards,

[4 the ride]

[QUOTE=4 the ride;1100845]

Wow! And the mechanic that checked it out couldn't find anything and wanted to blame it on oil from the new "Green" filter. I can say that the car has run perfect since I got it until I changed the filter, or something else went bad and we aren't seeing it. I will let you know how I come out. Thanks for taking the time to help me.

Jim

Hib, et.al., So I spent the day at the tuner last week and on the way home "check engine." New codes associated with MAF this time. Took the MAF off and cleaned it with MAF cleaner, no signs of oil or residue. Drove it in warm temps. for 25 miles, no codes. Ran it up in second and third, no codes. Put it in the garage for the weekend and drove it out this morning in cool temps, low 50's. Boom! check engine! Pulled the codes, 5 of them 1. P0101 - MAF or VAF CKT Range/Perf. 2. P0171 System too lean (bank 1) 3. P0101 - MAF or VAF...... 4. P0171 - System too lean (bank 1). 5. P0174 - System too lean (bank 2). Back to the tuner in the morning for some additional tweaks but I'm loosing confidence in this solution track. I'm learning that it's not just the guy who has fundamental knowledge of tuning and a dyno but you really need someone who has specific experience with the LS engine, LS6 if possible. Oh well, at this point I'm less concerned with the ultimate tune than one that will get the LT calibrations correct. The fellow I'm using is feeling his way along with my car and I'm loosing my patients with this track. I need a pro to help him nail this tune.

Any comments?

For the ride