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  1. #1
    Member EOLIVER's Avatar
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    1989 DARK BLU METALIC SIX SPEED CONV

    Default Instructions For Replacing 1987 Water Pump

    Tonight I discovered that my water pump and/or lower radiator hose was leaking heavily. In loooking through my CHILTONS manual (I plan on replacing it with an actual service manual) it directs me to evacuate the refrigerant and releif the pressure on the fuel system. Do I really have to do both of these to do this to change the water pump?

  2. #2
    Ken
    Gone but not forgotten Ken's Avatar
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    1987 Z51 Silver Coupe

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    It's been awhile since mine's had air, and I can see where the fuel lines leading to the rails might have to be disconnected, but you should be able to maneuver the a/c out of the way in order to remove the water pump. Then again, I may be wrong.

  3. #3
    Moonunit 451
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken
    It's been awhile since mine's had air, and I can see where the fuel lines leading to the rails might have to be disconnected, but you should be able to maneuver the a/c out of the way in order to remove the water pump. Then again, I may be wrong.
    As usual, Ken has it exactly right You can actually pull the motor without evacuating the AC

  4. #4
    Ken
    Gone but not forgotten Ken's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moonunit 451
    You can actually pull the motor without evacuating the AC
    I forgot that I did just that when I pulled mine -- twice!

  5. #5
    NevadaJim
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    Quote Originally Posted by EOLIVER
    Tonight I discovered that my water pump and/or lower radiator hose was leaking heavily. In loooking through my CHILTONS manual (I plan on replacing it with an actual service manual) it directs me to evacuate the refrigerant and releif the pressure on the fuel system. Do I really have to do both of these to do this to change the water pump?
    Replaced mine a couple years back and didn't have to do either. You can unbolt and move what needs to be moved far enough out of the without disconnecting A/C, fuel or any other lines.

  6. #6
    Member JonM's Avatar
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    Unbolt it and tie it back with some tie-wire...you can tie it to the suspention. Just put a rag on the rubber piece ontop of the wheel well.

  7. #7
    Vettefan87's Avatar
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    1987 Z52 Black Convertible

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken
    I forgot that I did just that when I pulled mine -- twice!
    I've got ya beat by one Ken....

  8. #8
    zog
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    Last winter I did my 86 water pump and radiator...absolutely no need to evacuate the AC...dumb

    It is a lot of work, as you do have to pull the power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor, etc., etc....I opted to change the timing chain (only a few more bolts, and the oil pan comes off easy to replace the timing chain cover, so I replaced the oil pump and starter....might as well!!!

    Not a bad or hard job, just lots to do and very time consuming...but then, it IS a Vette

  9. #9
    Member unleadedbrew's Avatar
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    '86L Blk 4+3 Z51

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    Just like Chiltons to make extra work for you. I believe that the December issue of Vette has a step by step article on the water pump change. I read it because it had pictures, unlike Playboy which I just read for the articles, of course.


    Sorry, Hib.........my wife bought the subscription to Vette for me.
    "I'll let you be in my dream, if I can be in yours."
    Bob Dylan

  10. #10

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    1985 White/Silver Coupe, 2001 Pewter Coupe,Z51,6sp

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    Try this site, it has some pretty good practical info on swapping a waterpump etc.

    http://www.batee.com/corvette/index.shtml

    Ron ...

  11. #11
    Member
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    2005 Coupe, black over black

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    You do not have to evacuate the refrigerant to change the water pump, I don't know where you're reading that from. I changed my water pump a couple of months ago and it was pretty involved, because it was the first time I did it. I would plan on about 6 hours at a leisurely pace, just take your time. Everything has to come off the front of the engine. Yes you do have to disconnect the fuel lines in order to remove the a/c bracket, you should use flare nut wrenches on those fittings to prevent kinking the lines, it would be an enormous PITA if those lines kinked. It's easy to relieve fuel pressure, just remove the fuse that says FR or FP and start the car and run until it stops. Gas will still spill out, so keep some shop rags handy. I used Permatex thread sealant on the bolts that go into the water jacket, and they are dry as a bone. I used rtv on the gaskets, both sides, and it's a perfect seal and should be for years to come, knock on wood (knocking on my head). Might be a good idea to replace upper and lower radiator hoses as well as your heater hoses too.

  12. #12
    Member EOLIVER's Avatar
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    Default What Mods Could Be Done While Changing Water Pump

    what other items should I look to replace while changing out the water pump in my 1987 coupe

  13. #13
    Member WhalePirot's Avatar
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    Concurring with the above, be gentle with the A/C as you move it aside. Too much strain on those hoses and connections can cause leaks, slow or not.

    Change ALL hoses, especially the little one from the water pump to the intake, and both radiator hoses. Be gentle, also, on the radiator 'necks' for the same (leaks) reason. Possibles, on the heater hoses and serpentine belt. The belt can be inspected by turning inside/out and bending it backwards, looking for cracking. Cracks indicate replacement; lack of them is no guarantee it's okay.

    A timing chain change would be a function of mileage, as it adds a couple of elements, like valve timing (simple, yet critical and proper alignment of the gears) and potential oil leaks.
    409 cid four bolt, forged crank/11:1/alum. Dart Pro-1/FMS-30pph@45 psi/BBK 52mm/'90 ECM Custom chip/Lingenfelter SuperRam/Comp Cams hydr. roller 230i-236e@050 /TPIS long tubes 3"/'84 Corvette cat/Flowmasters/ BeCool rad./FlowTech water pump/180* 'stat/3.54:1 rear gears +case cryo hardened/Bilsteins: 'Challenge' specs/Heim jointed rear suspension; all poly/ZF6-40 by ZF Doc//I.M.I. mini-starter/Battery inside/Electric HydroBoost brakes/FatMatted/Shinoda body/updated PwrWindows

  14. #14

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    1985 White/Silver Coupe, 2001 Pewter Coupe,Z51,6sp

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    Quote Originally Posted by EOLIVER
    what other items should I look to replace while changing out the water pump in my 1987 coupe
    If you're as far as the water pump, do consider replacing or at least looking at the timing chain. If it's the original chain, you can bet money it needs replacing. Worth looking into seeing as you've dug down to the water pump.

    Ron ...

  15. #15
    Member EOLIVER's Avatar
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    Default Thanks Everybody

    I'd like to thank eveyone for their advice. I finished the water pump replacement, radiator and throttle body cleaning yesterday. She's never run better or cooler.

    Next stop replacement of the rear spring bushings/bolts. shocks (purchased new KYB's from summit racing) and an alignment.

    Thanks again for al the great advice.

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