Advice on replacing wheel hubs and suspension parts

**tim1** · 06-29-12, 08:23 AM

Well after having a bad vibration I took the 93 to the GM Dealer to find out what was going on. They found the let side ball joints, outer tie rod end, and both hubs worn. Going to replace all four shocks while I am under the car. They also put the foot from the lift into my drivers floor pan!!! They had the floor pan fixed and undercoated Tuesday. So all my parts came in yesterday hoping to collect the tools today so I can get started on this job soon. I would like any input on doing this. I have the FSM and will be following it closely, but I could also use any help the experts can throw in to make it easier or less painful. This will be a slow and steady project as my sis in law is coming to visit today and staying for the weekend. So drop me a line and let me know what you have done or how to make this a little quicker for me.

Thanks in advance.

**boomdriver** · 06-29-12, 11:24 PM

Its not too bad.
Best advice regarding the hubs is to buy GOOD parts....otherwise you WILL be doing it again...within the year. Good hub assys cost $150. If you get a "deal" for $75...throw them away and go find some real hubs. Lots of chinese bearings finding their way into the american aftermarket.

If you have to pull a rear hub assy out, do the short shaft U-joints at the same time. They are laying right there...do them now while you have access. Unless you KNOW they are brand new, use the access to do your PM on the half shafts.

Drilling rivets can be a PITA..try a 4.5" grinder to grind off the rivet head then punch it thru. Replace with grade-8 (or better if available) 3/8 IIRC...use aircraft nuts. Start the new parts with synthetic grease. Keep them full of syn grease.

If the front had bad tie rod ends the rear will definately as well. D/C the outter tie rod and see how sloppy loose the inner shaft socket is...if it is so loose that the shaft cannot stay up when you lift it, the inner socket is worn out. That REAR toe assy cannot be rebuilt...replaced only. About $250 or less if you shop around. Be damn sure that you seat the new tie rods down IN their tapered reciever as far as they will go...then thighten/torque to spec and install cotter pin.

**froggy47** · 06-29-12, 11:29 PM

Since they have already demonstrated their incompetance, are you sure you want them to complete this fairly extensive/expensive work.

I would be driving my Vette out of there.

**tim1** · 06-30-12, 03:36 AM

I drove it out of their shop and have no intentions of ever going back to them, I will be doing all the work myself. Thanks for the tip boom driver, I bought all four hubs because I figured if I am going to do two I might as ell replace the others at the sametime. I will take the advice you have given and just replace all the tie rod ends and ball joints also. I really do not want to have it sitting back off the ground again in six months.

**froggy47** · 06-30-12, 12:12 PM

I added a link in my sig to some videos I did on most of this stuff, may help if you have not done it before.

**tim1** · 07-04-12, 03:42 AM

I spent a little time under the left front lastnight. Got the hub and shock off. Started messing with the lower ball joint, with a loner ball joint press that is way to large to fit. The vette is jacked up in the garage and waiting for me to figure out how to get the ball joints out. Thinking I may end up with a pickle fork and a hammer, but prefer not to go that route. Any suggestions? I plan on spending the 4th in the garage pulling her apart and getting everything corrected so I can go topless soon.
Thanks Tim

**John Robinson** · 07-04-12, 04:22 AM

I had my ball joints done at a garage and they had to use the pickle fork and hammer method to get them apart. In doing that they scared up the a arms some. At the time I was watching this going on and biting my tongue. And then I thought who is going to see the scares anyway some worm or bug looking up as I go by at 100+ MPH. After all this is my daily driver not a show car. Good luck this weekend. Be careful around the spring and use something to support it so it does not get away from you when you remove the parts holding the ends of it.

**tim1** · 07-04-12, 07:24 AM

Just got in from the garage, I gave up on the ball joints. I didnt want to but I did. I installed the new shock, hub and tie rod end and bolted her back up. Taking a break now then its off to the right front. Going to replace the same parts there also. THen to the rear end for shucks and hubs. Maybe tomorrow I can get it into a shop to do the ball joiints and do an alingment. The shock I took off was toasted, thinking it may have been the original one.

**boomdriver** · 07-04-12, 04:31 PM

The rear hubs will be more challenging....
more stuff to deal with and less access.

Get the rear up on jack stands.

I pull the wheel and d/c everything and d/c the half/shaft strap bolts. D/C the tie rod ends.
I then rehang the wheel with 2 nuts and get under the car and use my feet/legs to push outward on the wheel...so the half/shaft drops into my lap. Now I have easy access to the torx bolts that can be such a PITA to remove...half shaft gets 2 new joints, new hub and reverse the process to assemble...press out on wheel and hold shaft in place as wheel is relaxed and comes down to hold it. Replace u-joint strap bolts and its secured.
I would suggest loc-tite on the torx bolts. You can also use grade 8 hex bolts if you want to loose the torx...
I had 2 of the 3 fall out and almost lost a wheel...not a good feeling.

**froggy47** · 07-04-12, 04:57 PM

Originally Posted by tim1

I spent a little time under the left front lastnight. Got the hub and shock off. Started messing with the lower ball joint, with a loner ball joint press that is way to large to fit. The vette is jacked up in the garage and waiting for me to figure out how to get the ball joints out. Thinking I may end up with a pickle fork and a hammer, but prefer not to go that route. Any suggestions? I plan on spending the 4th in the garage pulling her apart and getting everything corrected so I can go topless soon.
Thanks Tim

Not clear if you are stuck SEPARATING the ball joints from the knuckle & control arm

or

Are you having trouble REMOVING the ball joints from the knuckle & control arm?

Did you watch the video(s)?

**boomdriver** · 07-04-12, 07:16 PM

Probably the lower...

the upper is fairly straight forward....\get rivets out,,grind or drill, HIT the sob and knock it loose then pry the lower shaft out with a press OR a pickle fork. Either requires a hammer...

**tim1** · 07-05-12, 03:10 AM

Yes I watched your vids. I was trying to get the lower ball joint out and I cannot find a press in this lil town that has anything that will fit to press the lowers out. I did not even mess with the uppers, going to let a shop do all four and then align the front end. I started on the rear hubs and shocks and the hubs beat me like the ball joints, I now see a post on what to do to get them out, going to try again when more time is availible. All four shocks had minimual movement and I do think they may have been the original ones. I cant wait to see how much better it rides with a lot more give in the suspension. Thanks again for all the advice and pointers, they sure helped alot. My neighbor even commented on how he would never attempt such a project, but I do not think he even owns a floor jack.....lol

**froggy47** · 07-05-12, 11:37 AM

Originally Posted by vetteoz

I have only ever got the bottom ones out with a press and you better have bought quality (Moog , etc ) replacement
because many no-name ones are oversize and there is no way to line them up square so they press in straight

Pfadt has some good ones also. I have not this one yet.

Make sure the guy who does it has done quite a few of them before yours.

**tim1** · 07-08-12, 02:22 AM

I am still working on the front end, well really looking around to find the correct tool to remove the lower ball joints. No parts or tool places within 150 miles of me has this tool for sale or rent. I really do not want to take it to a shop and have to pay for something I could do with the correct ball joint press.

**froggy47** · 07-08-12, 01:11 PM

Originally Posted by tim1

I am still working on the front end, well really looking around to find the correct tool to remove the lower ball joints. No parts or tool places within 150 miles of me has this tool for sale or rent. I really do not want to take it to a shop and have to pay for something I could do with the correct ball joint press.

Here's one.

Snap-on Tools Master Ball Joint Press Set - YouTube