Is there fluid in the a/c compressor clutch?
I am pretty sure the answer is no, however, I have what seems to be fluid marks that have spewed out in a splatter pattern right from the a/c compressor clutch. And, when the a/c is running there is this horrible burnt smell; everything is fine when the a/c is off. I thought it may be the clutch freezing up and making the belt melt but the belt is fine, and the spatter pattern is right where the a/c is. So, is there actual fluid in the clutch itself (1990) and then if so there must be a seal that can go, yes?![]()
Dawn
3 Corvettes, 4 Camaros (89 IROC Convt; 76 Dragcar; 71 RS; 69 Coupe), 2 Trucks (68 Shortbed & Dually), 66 Corvair, & ZX6R Kawasaki Ninja!!
Chevyaddict to the core!
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Dawn
3 Corvettes, 4 Camaros (89 IROC Convt; 76 Dragcar; 71 RS; 69 Coupe), 2 Trucks (68 Shortbed & Dually), 66 Corvair, & ZX6R Kawasaki Ninja!!
Chevyaddict to the core!
still winter in Az?
Thats jacket weather in southern Arizona ! (several yrs in Mesa/Gilbert) Phx area. I miss it a lot. I moved to a real ugly climate. Houston Tex...same heat plus some horrible humidity. The 2 numbers rise together each spring....re: 90 degrees...90% humidity..= misery. I miss 105 and 15%.....
My best advice regarding the a/c compressor would be to just be a good rebuild or even a new one. Rebuilding is possible but you have to be certain of the shaft surface and some other pieces. If its old and might have other internal wear, might not be worth rebuilding as another failure could be just months away. I think new delco compressors run in the $350 range..while remans can be had for 1/2 that with a 1yr to lifetime warranty.
After thinking about it, if you have the ND compressor ( yr model specific) and not a domestic, its more worth the rebuilding...
I don't know how you could handle that heat with the humidity. FORGET IT. The only time we have that is during the monsoons but at least we get afternoon reprieves of cool rain and beautiful thunderstorms so its worth it!!
I think I'm just going to have the system converted over to R134 with new components. The A/C is the ONE thing I can't deal with on my own because I don't have the proper equipment. Frustrating after I practically rebuilt the whole motor not too long ago. BUT I have a reputable A/C shop here that I trust so when I have the mula I'll do it. First thing first... need to rebuild the front suspension on my 89 IROC that is still running strong after 208,000 miles!
Dawn
3 Corvettes, 4 Camaros (89 IROC Convt; 76 Dragcar; 71 RS; 69 Coupe), 2 Trucks (68 Shortbed & Dually), 66 Corvair, & ZX6R Kawasaki Ninja!!
Chevyaddict to the core!
Don't be to quick to convert to 134A the price on it is right up there and the price of R12 has really dropped.
Even though the 134A works ok, you will never get the cooling of the R12. Check the price of R12 before you
convert.
Also consider the hydrocarbon based refrigerants (Envirosafe...etc)...I use that in everything, for several years now with VERY good results. Its not that difficult to do yourself...if you can build an engine you can do AC!
Dawn
3 Corvettes, 4 Camaros (89 IROC Convt; 76 Dragcar; 71 RS; 69 Coupe), 2 Trucks (68 Shortbed & Dually), 66 Corvair, & ZX6R Kawasaki Ninja!!
Chevyaddict to the core!
Dawn
3 Corvettes, 4 Camaros (89 IROC Convt; 76 Dragcar; 71 RS; 69 Coupe), 2 Trucks (68 Shortbed & Dually), 66 Corvair, & ZX6R Kawasaki Ninja!!
Chevyaddict to the core!
Dawn,
you can rent or borrow the necessary tools (vac pump, gauges) from Auto-Moan and do the a/c yourself. Shops get a 3 digit figure ($1000+) to convert....a DIY with the right tools can be done for $150..maybe less.The secret to successful a/c work is cleanliness and sealing.
Monsoons...I recall. That was the reminder of what the gulf coast feels like . When I was splashing lotion all over my arms and hands to keep my skin from drying out and flaking off due to the dryness in Az, I never considered just how nice that was when compared to the extreme opposite of the enviromental spectrum...life in a sauna. I remember hanging wet jeans outside in Phx and they'd be dry in about 1/2 hour. Around here, a cloths line is all day and then its not totally dry.
The Tex-sis gulf coast has to be where they develope and test extreme anti-perspirants and deoderants...Even the mosquitos have to wear life jackets around here...![]()
One day, I'll complete the online certification course I found. Not sure if that it required to be allowed to buy refrigerant, but surely a good way to get better informed on the topic.
Gotta love it.. enviro-speak in a car nut forum.
The fittings for 134 differ from 12, BTW. Also, there is 'refrigerant oil, a measured amount, in the compressor and no way to check the proper quantity, w/o fully draining it. Too much or too little is not good for perhaps obvious reasons. Running the system that is low on oil will eventually cause the compressor to seize; perhaps evidenced by belt damage/failure, if not some odor like that already present. Merely adding R12 does not replace the lost oil and there is really no way to know how much has escaped.
A good, trusted A/C shop is rare for some reason. I'd suggest it is a good time to leak test the other sections of the system, as seals fail elsewhere and a sniffer can find them where no oily traces are seen.
409 cid four bolt, forged crank/11:1 comp/alum. Dart Pro-1/FMS-30pph@45 psi/BBK 52mm/'90 ECM Custom chip/Lingenfelter SuperRam/Comp Cams hydr. roller 230i-236e@050 /TPIS long tubes 3"/'84 Corvette cat/Flowmaster/ BeCool rad./FlowTech water pump/180* 'stat/3.54:1 rear gears +case cryo hardened/Bilsteins: 'challenge' specs/Heim jointed rear suspension; all poly(Guldstrand)/4+3 (strengthened)/I.M.I. mini-starter/Battery inside/Electric HydroBoost brakes/FatMatted/Shinoda body/updated PW
Sorry for the late reply...tried to on my so-called "smart" phone, but it apparently is not smart enough.
Anyway, no special components needed. I just do the R134 conversion, but don't use the actual R134 refrigerant. Either type of oil is compatible with the hydrocarbon based refrigerants, but really to get the system working at its best the entire system needs to be completely flushed, replace the dryer/accumulator and orifice tube (with a good one), and all seals/O-rings.
I have to agree with boomdriver also...just replace the compressor. Shortcuts here just won't pay off in the long run!
WP...Hell man a good "anything" shop is hard to find! And ain't nuthin wrong with being a little environmentally conscious!(and btw R134 is still very bad not only for the environment, but is also a MSDS listed carcinogen).
Thanks so much! Great to know and will definitely have them use that. I think since I do know of a good garage I'm going to sit this one out. Really it is just a time factor on top of everything else; I barely have time to do regular maintenance on my vehicles at this point much less a major job that I don't really know how to do.![]()
Dawn
3 Corvettes, 4 Camaros (89 IROC Convt; 76 Dragcar; 71 RS; 69 Coupe), 2 Trucks (68 Shortbed & Dually), 66 Corvair, & ZX6R Kawasaki Ninja!!
Chevyaddict to the core!
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