1500 mile trip

**MCNE** · 06-03-05, 11:11 PM

Well this will be my first long trip in the vette. Down to the Corvette Museum and to the GM plant tour. Have a few questions.

Should I have the Transmission serviced? Last service was about 2 yrs ago with about 9k since. (do it myself)
I would like to replace my plugs but understand it's a pain. Any special tools to make the job easier?
Any quick fix for that darn floppy visor on the drivers side? I don't want to replace the entire thing.
Any other Vette road trip advice?

What I have already done.

Changed the oil - (1500 miles)
Checked the spare
Replaced the water pump
Changed the power steering fluid (many times)
Checked the hoses and belt
Washer fluid full as well as brake fluid

Thanks!

**Vettefan87** · 06-03-05, 11:18 PM

I don't see a need to drop the tranny pan again and change the filter since it was done less then ten thousand miles ago. I had 20-30 was the normal change depending on driving. I can't help ya with the plugs. I know they are harder to change the on my car. As far any other advice, just keep checking your fluids, and you will be fine. See you in BG..

**Edmond** · 06-03-05, 11:20 PM

I agree on the tranny fluid, it only has 9K on it so no need to change for a while.

Check the plugs anyway. They may be a pain to check but having a smooth running car for a 1500 mile trip would be worth it, not to mention the improved mileage you should get.

Get some buddies to help you. Buy plenty of food and beer and be prepared to do a whole lot of cursing.

DMGroh · 06-04-05, 11:16 AM

I also have a 96 LT-1 Black/Black. If you want, try one or two of the easier plugs and decide from there. I recently replaced the oem plugs after 113k miles, and they were all like new. I am impressed with Platinum...at least these.

I agree with keeping an eye on the fluids, and include a tire guage to make sure you're running the correct pressure, some basic tools, and perhaps a spare belt and bottle of oil that you use.

When you say floppy visor, I believe you mean the very end (close to inside mirror). I had forgotten I had that problem....thanks for the reminder! I was replacing the wipers, and extracted the long thin metal part that runs the length of the wiper. Place it up against the visor and cut. Pierce it through the fabric covering so that it is entirely inside the fabric. You can stretch the end of the visor to make it get inside. I did 2 per visor...on each side of the vanity mirror.

The good news is that I forgot I had this problem, which means the solution is still working.

**Jeb** · 06-04-05, 11:37 AM

TIRE PRESSURE!

**Toms01** · 06-04-05, 04:30 PM

Are you headed to the CruiseFest? Are both of your visors floppy eared? I had a mess of the fix kits for that, but ran out of material. Let me know and I'll see if I can round up some more and bring it with me to the "Fest".

DMGroh · 06-04-05, 05:41 PM

Toms94: Tell me about your "fix kit", I may need it if mine fails!

**PLRX** · 06-04-05, 06:09 PM

You are good to go, get a Radar/Laser detector (if you do not have one) and don't forget to let us know how was it. I'm planning on doing the same but for me are 2,400 miles trip.

Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**Toms01** · 06-04-05, 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by DMGroh

Toms94: Tell me about your "fix kit", I may need it if mine fails!

When I bought mine it had the floppy ear syndrome, and from "another forum" one of the guys had bought a fix-it kit from one of the big corvette catalogs. He described the material and size to me and then scanned the instructions and sent them to me. I found some material which I could cut up into the appropriate size and with the instructions was able to fix them easily. I have since given away probably 40 of the kits (as I had material to make the pieces) through the "other forum". I just sent out the last of the material I had, I need to find another source. Basically it is a piece of plastic 1/16" thick X 1 3/4" wide and 11 3/4" long. I had access to some verticle blinds that worked out perfect (after I cut them to size). I used up all the pieces I had and now I need to find someplace that I can get some more. The instructions, I'll send to you via email if you are interested. PM me your email address and I'll send them off to you. It's very simple and straight forward, about a 10 minute fix.

**MCNE** · 06-04-05, 11:05 PM

Originally Posted by toms94

Are you headed to the CruiseFest? Are both of your visors floppy eared? I had a mess of the fix kits for that, but ran out of material. Let me know and I'll see if I can round up some more and bring it with me to the "Fest".

No just a short one off trip. Considering CruisFest and the gathering in St. Charles, IL since I'm close. THe drivers side is the only one giving me probles at the moment. I think I figured out a way to fix it.

**Toms01** · 06-05-05, 07:43 AM

Originally Posted by MCNE

No just a short one off trip. Considering CruisFest and the gathering in St. Charles, IL since I'm close. THe drivers side is the only one giving me probles at the moment. I think I figured out a way to fix it.

Well if it doesn't work, let me know and I'll email the instruction to you at least. You might come up with some mateial that works.

**c4cruiser** · 06-05-05, 09:22 AM

How many miles are on the car?? If there is less than 75K, the plugs should still be in a good enough condition to not woory ablut them. The hardest part about a plug change is the #6 and #8 plugs. There is not a lot of room to get to them but with a bit of effort, they are doable.

The best way to change plugs is to remove the rear portion of the fenderwell along with the center section. This allows for a pretty much straight shot at all of the driver's side plugs and the forward two on the passenger side. For tools, a 5/8" spark plug socket, a few extensions that total to about 18", a good ratchet with a swivel head and about an 8" handle, and a u-joint extension. They should be 3/8" drive.

Remove the plugs when the heads are cold. If they are hot or warm, you risk stripping the threads in the aluminum heads. Remove the wire boot by twisting a 1/4 turn and pull back carefully. Don't use the wire to pull the boot off!

When you install new plugs, use a good anti-seize compound and torque them to about 11 ft-lbs. Use some dielectric grease on the inside of the boot to help the boot slide over the plug and keep any moisture out.

You didn't mention anything about the cooling system. How old is the coolant? IWhile the Dexcool in the car is advertised for long life, if you have 75K or more miles on the original fill, it might be worth having the old coolant flushed out and refilled with new Dexcool. Don't use the new yellow stuff that is supposed to work as a replacement for all coolants. Dexcool is not much more than the old green stuff or the new stuff. If you do decide on a flush/refill, I would replace the upper and lower radiator hoses.

You can use Havoline (Texaco) Dexcool as that is the same as what GM installs. You will need 2 gallons of coolant and two gallons of distilled water. Remove the overflow tank in the passenger side headlamp well and dump out the old stuff, rinse it clean and fill with a 50-50 mix of new.

Two of the best tools you can take with you is a AAA card and a cell phone! If you aren't a AAA member, look into joining and get the extended towing coverage (100 miles). If your car should break down out in the middle of nowhere, you simply call a toll-free number and roadside assistance shows up. If your car has to be towed, AAA can arrange a flatbed easily. One neat thing about AAA is that the card covers you, not your car. If you are a passenger in a car that breaks down, you just call for assistance, they show up ho help or solve a problem, sign the form and go!

**MCNE** · 06-05-05, 11:26 AM

Originally Posted by c4cruiser

How many miles are on the car?? If there is less than 75K, the plugs should still be in a good enough condition to not woory ablut them. The hardest part about a plug change is the #6 and #8 plugs. There is not a lot of room to get to them but with a bit of effort, they are doable.

The best way to change plugs is to remove the rear portion of the fenderwell along with the center section. This allows for a pretty much straight shot at all of the driver's side plugs and the forward two on the passenger side. For tools, a 5/8" spark plug socket, a few extensions that total to about 18", a good ratchet with a swivel head and about an 8" handle, and a u-joint extension. They should be 3/8" drive.

Remove the plugs when the heads are cold. If they are hot or warm, you risk stripping the threads in the aluminum heads. Remove the wire boot by twisting a 1/4 turn and pull back carefully. Don't use the wire to pull the boot off!

When you install new plugs, use a good anti-seize compound and torque them to about 11 ft-lbs. Use some dielectric grease on the inside of the boot to help the boot slide over the plug and keep any moisture out.

You didn't mention anything about the cooling system. How old is the coolant? IWhile the Dexcool in the car is advertised for long life, if you have 75K or more miles on the original fill, it might be worth having the old coolant flushed out and refilled with new Dexcool. Don't use the new yellow stuff that is supposed to work as a replacement for all coolants. Dexcool is not much more than the old green stuff or the new stuff. If you do decide on a flush/refill, I would replace the upper and lower radiator hoses.

You can use Havoline (Texaco) Dexcool as that is the same as what GM installs. You will need 2 gallons of coolant and two gallons of distilled water. Remove the overflow tank in the passenger side headlamp well and dump out the old stuff, rinse it clean and fill with a 50-50 mix of new.

Two of the best tools you can take with you is a AAA card and a cell phone! If you aren't a AAA member, look into joining and get the extended towing coverage (100 miles). If your car should break down out in the middle of nowhere, you simply call a toll-free number and roadside assistance shows up. If your car has to be towed, AAA can arrange a flatbed easily. One neat thing about AAA is that the card covers you, not your car. If you are a passenger in a car that breaks down, you just call for assistance, they show up ho help or solve a problem, sign the form and go!

The car has around 58k on it. I have started to replace the plug but mostly because at times it idles a little rough. I do have everything you mentioned above to complete the job. I replace the water pump about 6 weeks ago so my coolant should be in good shape. The hoses look like they were in really good shape so I didn’t replace any of them. You are absolutely correct about the motor club. I joined Allstate motor club last year for the first time ever. Too old and lazy to deal with car issues alone anymore. The one thing I did notice is one of my head lights is plastic and the other is glass. The one that is glass is a Sylvania I believe but I want them to be the same. I hardly ever drive at night but I did not the difference in output.

Thanks for all of the replies. I’ll let you know how the plugs go today.

MCNE

**MCNE** · 06-05-05, 09:55 PM

Replace those lovely plugs and man what a pain that was. I actually broke the plug wire at the boot on #8. Repaired it and reinstalled the darn thing. I hope its working properly, although I have a very smooth idle and the car runs ok. I would think if my repair job was bad I could tell immediately. I do have wires on order but I won't replace them until after the trip. I hope I don’t need to pull the water pump to change the wires on the driver’s side

Anyone else use the platinum +4's?

**Edmond** · 06-05-05, 10:19 PM

Quite a few people here have used the +4's. They either really love them or really don't like them. I used the +4's and they were great. Others have had stories of the pucks breaking off.