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Thread: Purge Valve

  1. #1
    Member captainrags's Avatar
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    Default Purge Valve

    Can anybody help. Im looking for a Vapor Canister Purge Valve the electric one and all I seem to find are the smaller units that are not electric.

    1996 LT4 6 speed
    Ray




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    Can you be a bit more specific about your needs?

    Do you need the canister purge solenoid or the canister purge valve. Also, from your sigline, we'll assume this is for a 96 with the LT4 (VIN 5) engine, but if it's not, post the application.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hib Halverson View Post
    Can you be a bit more specific about your needs?

    Do you need the canister purge solenoid or the canister purge valve. Also, from your sigline, we'll assume this is for a 96 with the LT4 (VIN 5) engine, but if it's not, post the application.
    I need the Vapor Canister Purge Valve NOT the solenoid. Yes its a LT4 Vin) 5 1996

    apreciate any help
    Thank you
    Ray

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    Quote Originally Posted by captainrags View Post
    I need the Vapor Canister Purge Valve
    Rockauto

    RockAuto Auto Parts

    "Being able to "think outside the box" presupposes you were able to think in it." --Bob Lutz

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    Quote Originally Posted by vetteoz View Post

    YES! like that one,,, the one that leaks charcoal dust all over the headlite arwa in the nose ! yep, thats the one !

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by captainrags View Post
    I need the Vapor Canister Purge Valve NOT the solenoid. Yes its a LT4 Vin) 5 1996

    apreciate any help
    Thank you
    Ray
    Did you confirm presence of vacuum at the cannister when you jumped the purge solenoid? If no one can post the 12V schematic, you can still bypass the switched purge port, to see if vacuum carries THROUGH the vac line AT/TO the EVAP cannister.
    Never got a nickel for wrenchin', so I know nuthin'...

    Get rid of your electrons. Be positive (+).



  7. #7
    Member captainrags's Avatar
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    With motor running, I had good vacum on intake and with unit disconected from ecm stimm had vacume not so strong.
    Ive had trouble locating part. Today i found unit but listed as
    1996 CHEVROLET CORVETTE 5.7L 350cid V8 MFI (5) OHV : Electrical-Switch & Relay : Evaporator Tube Switch. Hoping this will work as most units dont have the elect connection

  8. #8
    Member captainrags's Avatar
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    Default purge

    Quote Originally Posted by Schrade View Post
    Did you confirm presence of vacuum at the cannister when you jumped the purge solenoid? If no one can post the 12V schematic, you can still bypass the switched purge port, to see if vacuum carries THROUGH the vac line AT/TO the EVAP cannister.
    There has been some terminoligy issues the two parts 1. the "vapor canister purge valve soleniod" the square unit and 2. the "Vapor canister purge valve"
    I purchased both however the solenoid seem ok but the valve dident have electrical connections so hopfully this new purchase im waiting for will be the correct one. As part numbers have changed and all are very simular numbers verry confusing.
    With the testing i removed the hose from fuel tank to find suction! was I wrong?

  9. #9
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    I must have opened a can of worms Today i replaced my radiator top suport it was a pain in th enexk to do now car dosent want to start just hope when draining the water it dident run into the dist let it sit overnight!!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by captainrags View Post
    There has been some terminoligy issues the two parts 1. the "vapor canister purge valve soleniod" the square unit and 2. the "Vapor canister purge valve"
    I purchased both however the solenoid seem ok but the valve dident have electrical connections so hopfully this new purchase im waiting for will be the correct one. As part numbers have changed and all are very simular numbers verry confusing.
    With the testing i removed the hose from fuel tank to find suction! was I wrong?
    With the testing - the solenoid bypassed either 1) by jumping the 12V switch, or 2) bypassing the vacuum port, then NO, you were not wrong, and YES, you should have had vacuum at the tank, under either of those 2 conditions.

    But which did you do?

    Did you jump the solenoid - to complete the electrical circuit, and 'activate' vacuum?

    Or did you disconnect the vacuum tubes at the solenoid, and connect them, which would have also supplied vacuum?
    Never got a nickel for wrenchin', so I know nuthin'...

    Get rid of your electrons. Be positive (+).



  11. #11
    Member captainrags's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schrade View Post
    With the testing - the solenoid bypassed either 1) by jumping the 12V switch, or 2) bypassing the vacuum port, then NO, you were not wrong, and YES, you should have had vacuum at the tank, under either of those 2 conditions.

    But which did you do?

    Did you jump the solenoid - to complete the electrical circuit, and 'activate' vacuum?

    Or did you disconnect the vacuum tubes at the solenoid, and connect them, which would have also supplied vacuum?

    No I removed the line coming from the rear of the car and felt the suctions on the intake opening of the purge valve, for the two tests
    I did not jump the solenoid just ran the eng with wires pluged in and out only on the Valve, as the tank or line coming from the rear goes into the valve and thats what i refer to as the valve intake port this is of course before the solenoid. therfore it apears to me that the valve should be open with its wires pluged in and closed when the wires are out but it was not the case there was suction all the time but less when the wires were out. I will put the old solinoid back on tomorrow and with the existing valve test it again. If I can get it started.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by captainrags View Post
    No I removed the line coming from the rear of the car and felt the suctions on the intake opening of the purge valve, for the two tests
    I did not jump the solenoid just ran the eng with wires pluged in and out only on the Valve, as the tank or line coming from the rear goes into the valve and thats what i refer to as the valve intake port this is of course before the solenoid. therfore it apears to me that the valve should be open with its wires pluged in and closed when the wires are out but it was not the case there was suction all the time but less when the wires were out. I will put the old solinoid back on tomorrow and with the existing valve test it again. If I can get it started.
    The valve is not supposed to be open always, just because the 'wires' are plugged in (to the solenoid).

    The EVAP has a purge duty cycle, which is NOT continuous, and I think is NEVER purging at idle.

    If you have vacuum pulling at the gas tank at idle, you might have a broken purge solenoid, that IS making the purge continuous - perhaps the solenoid is stuck in the circuit's 'closed' position.

    You need the schematic to show HOW the circuit completes (like the ground wire grounding out and completing the circuit), WHEN it completes (purges) x rpm's, x mph, closed loop, etc., , and then you can check that the circuit is 'open' at the other times, NOT in purge mode.
    Never got a nickel for wrenchin', so I know nuthin'...

    Get rid of your electrons. Be positive (+).



  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by captainrags View Post
    I know it an old one but, just replaced the top radiator suport and now she just wont start cranks good and then smell of alot of fuel dident touch distribitor check and double checked all my work this has never hapened before any help would be apreciated, 1996 LT4.
    Ray


    I think maybe stick at this thread, and solve this electrical problem (if I understand what's going on as you describe). The electrical problem MIGHT be what's holding you from starting.

    So maybe lets make sure what's going on in the purge solenoid - if the problem is electrical THERE, and it's continuous, and not intermittent, it is easy to fix.

    DO you have FSM? Do you have multimeter?
    Never got a nickel for wrenchin', so I know nuthin'...

    Get rid of your electrons. Be positive (+).



  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schrade View Post
    I think maybe stick at this thread, and solve this electrical problem (if I understand what's going on as you describe). The electrical problem MIGHT be what's holding you from starting.

    So maybe lets make sure what's going on in the purge solenoid - if the problem is electrical THERE, and it's continuous, and not intermittent, it is easy to fix.

    DO you have FSM? Do you have multimeter?
    yes on service manual 1 and 2 and multimeter

  15. #15
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    You need to find then the duty cycle description for EVAP purge, and then find the test description/flow chart (will be in a different section from the description, I believe).

    Your description sounded like it is always in purge mode, with vac supply at the tank. If so, the question will be 'Which parameter is triggering the 12V supply TO the solenoid'? Something like faulty speed signal, rpm signal, etc. Look at each 'condition for purge'.
    Never got a nickel for wrenchin', so I know nuthin'...

    Get rid of your electrons. Be positive (+).



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