Tips for installing a oil pan
I installed my 10 quart oil pan this weekend and decided to share for those that donít know the tricks. While I was doing a big block this method also covers the small block.
I was also doing the pan with the motor in the car but this also works with the engine on the stand.
You donít want to struggle with the gaskets and wonder afterwards if anything slipped. Do it this way and the gaskets will stay where they are suppose to.
First I clean the frame rails and the ends very well. I then use laquer thinner to remove all traces of oil. You want a clean surface to start with.
I recommend studs. Moroso sells stud kits or you can do your own. I buy 20 set screws in size 5/16th by 1 ľ inches long coarse thread, 2 ľ inch set screws, same length and 20 of those nylon locking nuts, 2 ľ inch nuts and good washers. There are cheap washers and good thick ones, I choose the heavier duty ones.
I like the studs because the risk of stripping a thread is almost gone and if you do just replace the stud. Plus studs hold the gasket perfectly.
After installing the studs I check pan fit. Check that you have the technic for slipping the pan into place around the pickup. Get this down so you are not struggling later.
I then check each of the 4 gaskets to make sure they fit where they are suppose to go.
The rubber ends need to go in first. The rubber with the little **** is for the front timming cover and the back rubber has no rubber ****.
Check the side rail gaskets to make sure they look right. There is front and a back to these gaskets so figure out which way they go, which is up to the block and which is down to the oil pan.
So we have a clean block and we know which of the rubbers is front and which is back.
I then use 3M weather strip adhesive, any shop should have it for all types of repairs beside weather strip.
Use a small bead on the back on one of the rubbers, work one at a time. Put a thin coat on the backside of one rubber. Then using a rubber glove over a finger apply a thin amount to the front timming cover or the back of the block. In the crack between the timing cover and the block put is on more generously. Let this sit a few minutes and then carefully install one of the rubbers. If front put the little rubber tit in the hole at the very bottom of the cover and roll the seal up each side. If you used studs the rubber will slip over the studs. Press it onto the cover and block.
This rubber will not move.
Do the same to the back.
You now have both front and back seals firmly cemented in place.
3m weather strip adhesive is a good sealant like rtv.
Now test fit one side rail gasket.
I always use fel pro gasket sets. The pan gasket kit is $19 CDN
Test fit one side gasket noting which is front and back and which side touches the block.
I then take that gasket off, put a thin bead along the gasket and with the finger spread it out. Do the same to the block rail. Stick the gasket over the studs and press it carefully on each end INTO the rubber gasket. The rubber has a small insert for the side gaskets to fit into.
Do the other rail carefully like the first one noting front and back and which surface touches the block.
You now have the 4 gaskets installed.
I then put a fine , about 1/8th round bead of black silicon rtv or in my case Loctite gasket maker. I put a unbroken bead all the way around the pan going on the inside of the bolt holes and on both ends,, No break in the bead all around.
I then carefully install the pan. If you practiced before it should slide up and over the studs,
Install the nuts and washers , all of them before tightening everything.
This method guarantees all gaskets stay put, While studs are not necessary I like them for securing the gaskets and preventing stipped threads.
Good luck and this works.
- Online Administrator
I never thought of using studs but that's a great idea. I used hi-heat silicone instead of the 3M adhesive you recommend for the same purpose. Although it isn't likely necessary, I applied tension in a cross-pattern at stages so the gasket was compressed as evenly as possible. So far, no leaks.
Mac the idea behind the 3m weather strip adhesive is instant sticking. You put the end rubbers into place, push them tightly into the corners, angle the ends where they meet the side rail gaskets and everything stays put. When you take your hands off the gasket it doesn't move.
Originally Posted by Mac
With silicon the gasket is free to squirm around, fall down, come out of the corners. YOu don't know for sure if the gasket stayed put. Silicon is too slow at sticking the gasket down.
I also use studs on my valve covers. Put in 1/4 inch studs, slip the gasket over the studs and the cover drops on. YOu never wonder if the gasket slipped or not.
Use studs everywhere including the seats. Makes life a whole lot easier.
Nice BB op gasket install tips ... thanks.
Big Block has teets at timing cover ... Small Block has NO teets.
A few months back, we did a 67 or 68 396SS camaro Big Block ... used FelPro one piece op gasket ... it wasn't the race version ... worked great ...no leaks ... MUCH easier than 4-piece gaskets ... virtually NO sealer/rtv used ... sadly, I cannot remember the part number ... but it was a replacement & not a race number. If I recall, it also came with the "snap ups" to temporarily hold the gasket to block (like the FP small block gaskets' OS34509T & OS34510T snap ups). We did not use the snapups because we had motor inverted on stand.
Yes those new Fel-pro one piece gaskets do take all the worry out of an oil pan install, as usual a very informative post Norval I'll keep that weatherstrip adhesive in mind I've been using permatex "high tack" on one surface/RTV on the other, and in most cases use studs on the 4 5/16 locations to locate the pan.
68 4 speed 97 6 Speed
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