Covert '80 IRS to Live Axle? Anyone done it?

vetski179 · 11-26-05, 06:52 AM

Saw the Dream Car Garage marathon over Thanksgiving. The show about the '69 Vintage racer. They went into the inherent problems with the 'Vette IRS and how the axle deflects as it travels up and down. I'm guessing, even though they changed a couple things from the '69 IRS to the 80-82's, this problem is still present. They didn't even get into the overall weakness of the 10 bolt center section. Peter joked about converting the whole deal into a live axle; specifically a Ford 9 Inch. So, there’s my question! Anyone ever done this? How’s you do it? Does anyone make a kit? This would be for a 1980. Thanks.

BarryK · 11-26-05, 08:30 AM

I don't claim to know or understand much about suspension systems but why in the world would you want to convert from an IRS to a solid axel on your car??
take the C1 vettes...... they are beautiful cars but they are not exactly known for their handling abilities. One of the best improvements made when the C2's started in '63 was the IRS over the solid axel. An IRS system, assuming it's not destroyed and about to fall off the car, should easily be offering you much better handling and ride quality.
if you are having issues with your system you should either have it checked out thoroughly or you can always upgrade it from vendors such as VBP.
Granted the IRS in your '80 is not much different than the ealier cars back to '63 but it's a huge improvement over the solid axel designs from what little I do understand about the systems.
also, regarding the 10 bolt center, do you still have the stock motor in your car? If so, I can't see that stock 10 bolt unit causing too many issues for you unless you were to put in a massive monster motor pumping out 400-500hp or more.

Other replies from people who ARE very knowledgable on the suspension system should be interesting.

bossvette · 11-26-05, 08:41 AM

There are two "back halved" cars running around in my neck of the woods, one is owned by a co-worker and is still in primer it does look kool going down the road with those big tires.

JohnZ · 11-26-05, 11:44 AM

This one belongs to a friend of mine - has a 9-inch with a Strange center section and 5-link system (built by Al Hofmann of funny-car fame)

Glensgages · 11-26-05, 09:49 PM

..... there has been an on-going thread over at the 'other' Forum about this very subject for several months:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1012681

Personally, I plan-on either building, or buying, a back-halved late-C3, strictly for bracket-racing:
a purpose-built race-car is the ONLY way to go, if you are even remotely 'serious' about your drag-racing endeavors.

bossvette · 11-26-05, 10:08 PM

There is also one of our Canadian members doing a C2 and 67HEAVEN has posted several times on his progress. A very nice job I might add.

AKRAY4PLAY · 11-27-05, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vetski179

Saw the Dream Car Garage marathon over Thanksgiving. The show about the '69 Vintage racer. They went into the inherent problems with the 'Vette IRS and how the axle deflects as it travels up and down. I'm guessing, even though they changed a couple things from the '69 IRS to the 80-82's, this problem is still present. They didn't even get into the overall weakness of the 10 bolt center section. Peter joked about converting the whole deal into a live axle; specifically a Ford 9 Inch. So, there’s my question! Anyone ever done this? How’s you do it? Does anyone make a kit? This would be for a 1980. Thanks.

i am running 600 HP to my stock IRS. no problems after four years on the street. i have the VB&P kit on mine, and it works very well. the problem mentioned, from your source, it the camber change thru the suspension travel. this is from uneven camber rod and halfshaft angles. the original design was intended to compensate for the **** poor tire technology of the day. with today's tires, a zero camber change is more desired to keep the maximum contact patch with the asphault. the VB&P kit fixes the camber swing design "problem" by lowering the camber rod mounting location so the rod and halfshaft are parallel. this results in zero camber change thru the suspension travel. as for the 10 bolt rear section, Tom's differentials makes a sweet but spendy kit. it will convert your 10 bolt housing into a 12 bolt. Tom's also has a 1480 series u-joint spindle, halfshaft and axle stub kit. these kits are tough but expensive. if you plan on running nines while banging gears, you need it or convert to live axle. the live axle will kill handling, kinda like driving a Camero with a long hood. so, depending on what you need, upgrading your IRS or back halfing have their applications for the money invested.

vetski179 · 11-27-05, 02:28 AM

Thanks for all the info. Since you're in the 600HP area, and you're doin' fine, I'm not quite as worried. I'm thinking about 540HP. Which engine is gonna give me that I'm still considering. Either a 540 inch big block, or, maybe go high tech with an LS1, with a power adder like a Paxton or a turbo. And I don't plan on a lot of quater mile stuff either. Is VB&P Vette Brakes and Products? I'll have to give them a look. I did see the Hot Rod magazine feature on the Tom's 12 bolt upgrade. Thanks-Scott

Mac · 11-27-05, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vetski179

Is VB&P Vette Brakes and Products?

Yup. Here's a link to their website... VB&P!

-Mac

ratflinger · 11-27-05, 04:44 PM

Stock rearends handled all the hp that Chevrolet saw fit to give them over the years, big blocks. L-88s, etc. Why worry about the strenght of the pumpkin unless you are planning to race professionally.

norvalwilhelm · 11-27-05, 06:09 PM

I'm running a 8-71 blown bigblock with far more horse then 600hp and even ran for a number of years with slicks. Took out 4 automatic transmsisions in that time plus twisted both back axles which I found on routine inspection but so far the rearend has held up fine.
The only problem we have is toe change, camber change can be controlled with a 6 link but not toe. The design of our systems prevent locking the toe.
I have often thought about a ford 9 inch, I can do it but at what expense to butchering the car? The battery boxes should go and with only a 26 inch driveshaft the universals will take a beating if you intend to have a decent movement of the rearend and a decent ride.
No I am sticking with the stock setup.