I spent mondo hours filling, sanding, blocking, priming, guide coating, filling, blocking, adjusting (you get the idea) on my front and rear door gaps. Bottom line, my driver is near perfect, my passenger is down at the rear top gap a tad.
No two really fit the same. There are several ways to adjust short of any filler and paint work. First, yes there are those stacked up think washer plates between the hinge and the A pillar. That just moves the front door gap in and out from the outer line of the body. Both the A pillar hinge post bolts and the door hinge bolts in the doors have slots. The slots are in the A pillar and door, as the hinge is drilled and threaded for the bolts.
The key is to get both sets of bolts loose. Close the door and have a friend stuff paint stir sticks or whatever works best for you to shim it on all sides equal. Then you torque down the bolts.
You may find when you open the door it will sag. If so, put a floor jack under the opended door as close to the closed position as possible. You MUST position the floor jack on the metal frame of the door. Give it a slight upward pump while you are sitting in the car, then readjust/tighten the hinge bolts. This will "pre load" it. Let the jack down and you will see it have a little natural sag. Adjust the door striker bolt as needed, and you should be there.
However, if you are looking for the perfect fit, now you have to grind into the door. Fashion a filler block that gives a predetermined door gap, then spread filler over the door and fender. Come back with a long file block and sand across both the door and fender in a variety of patterns. Keep doing this, and recutting out the gap until you reach perfection.
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Art
then the cost of stripping and painting it properly would have doubled the price. 
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