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Go Back   Corvette Action Center > 1968 - 1982 Corvettes > C3 Technical and Performance


C3 Technical and Performance For technical and performance related discussion of 1968 - 1982 Corvettes.

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Old 11-07-01, 10:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default small-block intake gasket sealing help!

What is the best way to seal between the intake manifold and the block on a small-block stock motor when installing the manifold?

If you use the "Permatex" stuff, which one? Blue? Black?

Any preferred gasket manufacturer?





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1996 LT1, Convertible, automatic, Corsa Exhaust,JBA headers, 3:73's ,Purple Metallic w/light biege top & interior.
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1932 Pontiac 2-door sedan "Street Rod", "chopped & dropped", 454 big-block w/2-4's on top of a Weiand tunnel ram intake, helps when merging onto highways and passing.
 
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Old 11-07-01, 10:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The best stuff is Chrysler silicone sold at the dealerships.
Mike
 
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Old 11-08-01, 09:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Been using Kopper Kote on heads and intakes for years. Never had a leak. Pay special attention to the torque sequence and values. On the valley seals, use black silicone RTV.

Ron
 
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Old 11-08-01, 09:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default What I use

I've always used the red permatex on the front and back of the block and the yellow high temp on the heads for the intake. I've never had a leak.
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Old 11-08-01, 11:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The way I've sealed SBV8s for years is: Fel-Pro Performance "Printoseal" intake gaskets with no sealer (as someone said elsewhere, FP's Printoseal gaskets already have an RTV bead around the ports) and RTV silicone for the end seals. I do not use the cork or rubber end seals that come with intake sets.

Today, most any RTV silicone works well, but my personal choice is the RTV from Valco Cincinnati Consumer Products.

I dab a little Valco RTV in a few places on the gasket to hold it in place then I stick it on the head. I take a Valco Cincinnati "Tube Grip" loaded with a tube of RTV and lay a moderately-thick bead of sealer on the end seal surfaces on the block. I take care to make sure the RTV bead overlaps a bit onto the little tabs at the bottom corner of each gasket. I wait 5-10 minutes for the RTV to skin then I set the intake in place.
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Old 11-09-01, 06:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Thanks!

Thanks for the replies.
That's what I was looking for. I'll try the Fel-Pro Printoseals (if I can find them) and use just RTV on the ends.

And of course torque the intake down properly!

The problem I've had in the past is an oil leak at the back where the intake seals to the block along the valley. Not a bad leak mind you, but slow and persistant enough to coat the bellhousing area and drip on the floor occasionally.

I probably need to let the RTV "skin" over longer to get a better seal.
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1996 LT1, Convertible, automatic, Corsa Exhaust,JBA headers, 3:73's ,Purple Metallic w/light biege top & interior.
member NCRS#34320 & NCCC Midwest Region

1932 Pontiac 2-door sedan "Street Rod", "chopped & dropped", 454 big-block w/2-4's on top of a Weiand tunnel ram intake, helps when merging onto highways and passing.
 
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Old 11-09-01, 10:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default I Do

I let the sealer set up 24 hours and it works for me. The red stuff is the high temp I like. I never use anything but on the block and letting it set up is as important as making sure you cover the area well. I use plenty and cut the excess off with a razor blade after.
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