'67 electrical

[mbbnsb]

Where is the circut breaker under dash located, is there one under the hood. Vehicle won't turn over, no interior light or horn. Battery and cables new. Thanks,

[JohnZ]

Where is the circut breaker under dash located, is there one under the hood. Vehicle won't turn over, no interior light or horn. Battery and cables new. Thanks,

The only circuit breaker on a '67 is for the headlight rollover switch, and it's mounted on the driver's side hinge pillar just above the courtesy light, above the kickpad.

Sounds like you have the "big red wire" syndrome, which is a common problem on a midyear. Battery power comes into the cabin through a 12-ga. red wire in the inboard 8-way multiple connector on the engine side of the fuse block; carefully remove that connector and check the condition of the mating terminals for that red wire in the connector and in the fuse block. Corrosion or overheated terminals there can create an open circuit, which kills power to everything in the car. Sometimes just wiggling the connector and pushing on it at the same time will restore the power, but that's a temporary fix that needs to be repaired.

Photo below shows what that connector looks like when the red wire terminals have overheated (due to heat caused by high resistance in a poor connection) and partially melted the cavity in the connector.


RedWireSyndrome800.jpg

[mbbnsb]

The only circuit breaker on a '67 is for the headlight rollover switch, and it's mounted on the driver's side hinge pillar just above the courtesy light, above the kickpad.

Sounds like you have the "big red wire" syndrome, which is a common problem on a midyear. Battery power comes into the cabin through a 12-ga. red wire in the inboard 8-way multiple connector on the engine side of the fuse block; carefully remove that connector and check the condition of the mating terminals for that red wire in the connector and in the fuse block. Corrosion or overheated terminals there can create an open circuit, which kills power to everything in the car. Sometimes just wiggling the connector and pushing on it at the same time will restore the power, but that's a temporary fix that needs to be repaired.

Photo below shows what that connector looks like when the red wire terminals have overheated (due to heat caused by high resistance in a poor connection) and partially melted the cavity in the connector.


RedWireSyndrome800.jpg

Thanks JohnZ I hope this is the problem

[haganml]

I have had some problems locating that connector for repair of corroded/heat damaged connections. Does anyone have a source for those early GM connectors? Local Auto parts stores (East Bay San Francisco) look at me like I am crazy to be looking for a 47 year old electrical connector.

[JohnZ]

I have had some problems locating that connector for repair of corroded/heat damaged connections. Does anyone have a source for those early GM connectors? Local Auto parts stores (East Bay San Francisco) look at me like I am crazy to be looking for a 47 year old electrical connector.

Try Don Martin at Eagle Wire Products in Knoxville, (1-800-977-0030).

[haganml]

Try Don Martin at Eagle Wire Products in Knoxville, (1-800-977-0030).

Excellent! Will call him in AM, thank you.

Mark.

[vigman]

GM MOPAR CORVETTE WIRING HARNESSES / SPARK PLUG WIRES / BATTERY CABLES / SWITCHES

They might have the connector and pins ( don't forget a good crimper! ).

Never mind Lectric doesn't sell individual connectors or pins
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ctor-pins.html
( further info )
PLUS there is a good bypass in this thread ( if you want to be non stock )

Mine wasn't burnt, it was just old and needed some cleanup and a wee bit O pin re bending...
Don't forget the Di Electric grease on re assembly~

Mike

[haganml]

GM MOPAR CORVETTE WIRING HARNESSES / SPARK PLUG WIRES / BATTERY CABLES / SWITCHES

They might have the connector and pins ( don't forget a good crimper! ).

Never mind Lectric doesn't sell individual connectors or pins
Wiring Harness Connector Pins - Corvette Forum
( further info )
PLUS there is a good bypass in this thread ( if you want to be non stock )

Mine wasn't burnt, it was just old and needed some cleanup and a wee bit O pin re bending...
Don't forget the Di Electric grease on re assembly~

Mike

I know the value of a good pair of crimping pliers. I have one with inter-changeable jaws for most of the ones out there. Also some stand alone pliers for various European connectors. I was a mechanic for many years, good tools are essential.

I can buy a box of fifty at NAPPA here but I'm not sure if they are the correct size. I'll call Don Martin.

Thanks for the information Mike.

Mark.