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Go Back   Corvette Action Center > 1984 - 1996 Corvettes > C4 Technical and Performance


C4 Technical and Performance For technical and performance related discussion of 1984 - 1996 Corvettes.

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Old 11-06-07, 11:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default input please RE: power brake booster

I have to replace mine on my 90 vert. My choices are:

1. remanufactured Cardone approx $100.00

2. metal body new manufacture approx $160.00

3. new Delco approx $300.00

any other suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 11-07-07, 05:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I went with the Cardone for my '88 C4. Only been on 2 weeks but works fine. There are some threads here regarding DIY install. One says, "can be done, but frustrating." I opted for the local Chevy "stealer" for about $160 labor. After I looked under tha dash trying to even find thoes two nuts to remove, I thought the $160 was well spent.
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Old 11-08-07, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The Cardone should be fine unless you are running headers, then I'd ante up for the metal one.
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Old 11-11-07, 08:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toptechx6 View Post
The Cardone should be fine unless you are running headers, then I'd ante up for the metal one.

I am looking at installing headers early next year. Why the difference in the booster?
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Old 11-11-07, 11:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Not sure of the Cardone but it might be plastic?

I got the metal one a few years ago. It wasn't hard to install. You just lay upside down for a few minutes at a time with a ratchet, extension and universal. You can lay upside like that for long, though. I just laid down on the sill.

Just take the kick panel off, you have two nuts and a pin. There's also the master cylinder up front but that's easy. It's a simple remove and replace deal.

I would spend the extra $60 to get a new metal one. YMMV, though.
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Old 11-11-07, 12:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The cardone should be just fine. I don't know why anyone would want metal, it's heavier and won't last any longer; the diaphragm is what wears out on the booster, not the housing. But like everyone says it's a PITA to install, you have to remove the drivers's seat and get waaaaaaaaaaaaay up under the dashboard. Use a fluroescent light.
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Old 11-11-07, 09:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Did it today with a Cardone. It went in fine. Suggestions about ligt, universal socket etc. were very helpful. I also made use of a snapon 1/4 inch drive wobble extention. Not a bad job. Thanks to all. Jack

BTW, I am still trying to figure out why the metal one is the choice for some.
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Old 11-12-07, 12:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have not yet had the pleasure of replacing the brake booster on mine. But I HAVE had the "pleasure" of dealing with Cardone parts. Their quality is just terrible! I went through THREE power steering pumps for my Stepside; all of them squealed like pigs. And their rebuilt computers for the Vette don't look so hot either. Last one I got was all chewed up and greasy inside (although it worked OK).

So for me, choosing Cardone vs. something else is a cost/benefit analysis. If another brand isn't too much more money and it's a delicate part, then I'll go with that.

Or maybe the lesson is simply to stay away from rebuilds...
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Old 11-13-07, 04:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Several guys who run headers have reported melting the plastic booster body over time. If you use the plastic style with headers try to fabricate some sort of heat shield where it is closest to the header.
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Old 11-13-07, 05:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toptechx6 View Post
Several guys who run headers have reported melting the plastic booster body over time. If you use the plastic style with headers try to fabricate some sort of heat shield where it is closest to the header.

great advice!!!
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Old 11-13-07, 08:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Up date:

Remanufactured installed, (Cardone). It is a p.o.s. defective, when am I going to learn. Oh well at least my learning curve is fresh.
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Old 11-13-07, 09:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If the booster only has a split diaphram you can get the part and replace it for under $50. I found the part somewhere but I trashed the reciept. Look at some of the older part rebuilders.
Only 2 nuts under the master cylinder studs hold the thing together. There is a big spring and the diaphram.

I would get the new metal one if you don't fix the old one. The rebuilt stuff is one size fits all junk.

JS
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