Oil change time

TGC4 · 11-01-07, 01:10 PM

Hi folks,any tips on lifting my car in my garage to change my oil & filter?Only wish I had some of the garage set up's alot of you do have.

jmccloud · 11-01-07, 02:33 PM

I use staggered 2X10" boards; two about 6' long, the other about 3' long to get the front wheels high enough to roll onto ramps (one long board on bottom, one short board on top on each side). And the board ends are even at the ramp end. Block the rear wheels once on the ramps.
Does this make any sense? Hope it helps.
If your garage floor is concrete, the ramps may tend to slide. I do mine in the black-top driveway for that reason.
There are many threads that mention Rhino ramps with extra long extenders (available at Wallyworld or the Peppy trio) but I've never found them.
If you prefer to jack the car up, the correct points are identified under the sill just under the front of the door. Use a 6X6 or some other large block under the wheels after jacking up (then down onto the blocks). And chock the back wheels.
Good luck and welcome to a great forum.

onedef92 · 11-01-07, 02:58 PM

Be sure and reset your Oil Life Monitor after you change the oil and filter. Check your owner's manual for instructions.

TGC4 · 11-01-07, 03:01 PM

Thank you very much jmccoud I was thinking along those lines-I have axcess to heavy duty towmotors at work and half thought of driving the car onto the forks spread and lift as needed to get my body under it.Can I trust Dealers????

onedef92 · 11-01-07, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TGC4

Thank you very much jmccoud I was thinking along those lines-I have axcess to heavy duty towmotors at work and half thought of driving the car onto the forks spread and lift as needed to get my body under it.Can I trust Dealers????

Not to paint 'em all with negative broad brush strokes, but IMO, no one's gonna' do the job as meticulously as you are.

When I change my oil, for instance, I remove the plug and walk away until every last drop of oil is out of that crankcase. That can take 20 minutes of longer. No Jiffy Boob or stealership's gonna' sweat the details like that.

TGC4 · 11-01-07, 03:10 PM

Onedef92 thank you- I had it changed shortly after I bought it -only have 3,000 on the Moble 1 does the light trigger from miles between changes? If so I am sure it was not reset then.Or is there an actual means to sence oil quality?

muddywaters · 11-01-07, 03:54 PM

onedef92,I do the same thing, let the oil drip until it stops, after it's warmed up, that's where all the good schmita is...........Have fun

toms94 · 11-01-07, 10:27 PM

Yea, and while I'm under mine I wipe the whole undercarriage down with solvent and inspect all the little details. You can and will do a much better job if you do it yourself.

Edmond · 11-01-07, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TGC4

Or is there an actual means to sence oil quality?

One way is through a used oil analysis, which usually cost about $20. For that, you're just better off changing the oil. Today's synthetics can easily surpass 3,000 miles of normal driving. 5,000 can be easily achieved without any problems. The higher end synthetics can go 7,500+ miles.

onedef92 · 11-02-07, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TGC4

Onedef92 thank you- I had it changed shortly after I bought it -only have 3,000 on the Moble 1 does the light trigger from miles between changes? If so I am sure it was not reset then.Or is there an actual means to sence oil quality?

The "Change Oil " light comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on. It will come on and stay on when it's time to change your oil.

The monitor uses oil temperatures and engine revolutions to decide when the oil is nearly worn out. The light is only a reminder, though. You should change your oil at the intervals recommended by your owner's manual, even if the "CHANGE OIL" light hasn't come on.

Be sure to reset the monitor when your oil is changed, even if the "CHANGE OIL" light didn't come on. If you do not reset the monitor, it will not work correctly.

To reset your monitor, take these steps:

1. Turn the key to "RUN", but do not start the engine

2. Press "ENG MET" on the trip monitor, Then, within five seconds, press it again.

3. Within five seconds, press and hold "GAUGES" on the trip monitor. The "CHANGE OIL" light should flash.

4. Hold the "GAUGES" button until the "CHANGE OIL" light stops flashing and goes out. This should take no more than ten seconds.

When the light goes out, the monitor is reset. If the monitor does not reset, turn the ignition off, then try again.

TGC4 · 11-05-07, 12:53 PM

I agree dont

Quote:

Originally Posted by onedef92

The "Change Oil " light comes on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on. It will come on and stay on when it's time to change your oil.

The monitor uses oil temperatures and engine revolutions to decide when the oil is nearly worn out. The light is only a reminder, though. You should change your oil at the intervals recommended by your owner's manual, even if the "CHANGE OIL" light hasn't come on.

Be sure to reset the monitor when your oil is changed, even if the "CHANGE OIL" light didn't come on. If you do not reset the monitor, it will not work correctly.

To reset your monitor, take these steps:

1. Turn the key to "RUN", but do not start the engine

2. Press "ENG MET" on the trip monitor, Then, within five seconds, press it again.

3. Within five seconds, press and hold "GAUGES" on the trip monitor. The "CHANGE OIL" light should flash.

4. Hold the "GAUGES" button until the "CHANGE OIL" light stops flashing and goes out. This should take no more than ten seconds.

When the light goes out, the monitor is reset. If the monitor does not reset, turn the ignition off, then try again.

TGC4 · 11-05-07, 12:57 PM

Thank you ALL! Got the boards jmccloud and do appreciate the info onedef92 I am ready to play under her a bit later this week---They are talking lake effect snow mid week here in the Cleveland area--AHHHHH an end to a wonderful season.Thanks again to all.

Red Vette · 11-05-07, 02:41 PM

Changed mine on Saturday, jacked up the front after driving onto two 1 X 6s to get enough space to clear the jack. Placed on 6 inch ramps, then raised the car again to 10 inch ramps. On the C4, the oil drains back to the rear of the pan. On my 94, there are 4 lube zerks, top and bottom ball joints. When you change your filter, I recommend that you use Mobil 1, Wix, or AC Delco. You may want to read the posts on the quality of various oil filters. You used that 4 letter word again, SNOW. You and Remo are obsessed with it. I like Tom's idea of wiping the undercarriage with solvent - what do you use? Methylene Chloride, Trichloroethylene, MIBK, or some other toxic solvent? They alway work the best, but have associated health and disposal problems.
Barrett

onedef92 · 11-06-07, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Vette

Changed mine on Saturday, jacked up the front after driving onto two 1 X 6s to get enough space to clear the jack. Placed on 6 inch ramps, then raised the car again to 10 inch ramps. On the C4, the oil drains back to the rear of the pan. On my 94, there are 4 lube zerks, top and bottom ball joints. When you change your filter, I recommend that you use Mobil 1, Wix, or AC Delco. You may want to read the posts on the quality of various oil filters. You used that 4 letter word again, SNOW. You and Remo are obsessed with it. I like Tom's idea of wiping the undercarriage with solvent - what do you use? Methylene Chloride, Trichloroethylene, MIBK, or some other toxic solvent? They alway work the best, but have associated health and disposal problems.
Barrett

I use Simple Green and shop towels to clean my undercarriage. Works great and it's non-toxic, too.