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Go Back   Corvette Action Center > 1968 - 1982 Corvettes > C3 Technical and Performance


C3 Technical and Performance For technical and performance related discussion of 1968 - 1982 Corvettes.

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Old 10-31-07, 09:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Brake system bleed

Hello to all. Whats the trick to bleeding the brake system on my 79 L82. The front calipers, proportionary valve, master cylinder and booster have been changed. The rear components have not been disassembled. Can't seem to get the fluid to the front calipers after several attempts of pumping the pedal. I sure could use some advice here to solve this issue. I appreciate all who respond to this request. Dale W.
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Old 11-01-07, 12:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default You have to bench bleed the master cylinder first.

Bench bleeed the master cylinder first, then lf rf lr rr. than juck the rear up higher than the front and do it again, Remove the rear tires as there are two bleeders there , do the insisde first and the outside last,
Hope that helps, PG.
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Old 11-01-07, 01:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Pete. I will disassemble and perform bench bleed process. I am now convinced this is the problem, as I have tried everything else. Thank you. Dale W
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Old 11-01-07, 12:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The Corvette system bleeds from the rears first. Some folks begin with the left rear, but I have always begun with the right side (furthest from the master cylinder).

First, bleed the master cylinder.

RR inner then RR outer

LR inner then LR outer

RF

LF

Keep checking the fluid level in the master cylinder to ensure you don't run it dry. I use a My-T-Vac which I like, but JohnZ recommends a power bleeder.



I've already decided I'll spring for one before I take on brakes the next time.

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Old 11-01-07, 04:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Mike is rite on the sequence, bleed the rear first. I recommend a set of 4 speed bleeders. Just replace your originals.They alow you to bleed the system w/out a helper. Just dont forget to keep that master cylinder filled..
Good luck.. Jim
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Old 11-01-07, 04:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims427400 View Post
Mike is rite on the sequence, bleed the rear first. I recommend a set of 4 speed bleeders. Just replace your originals.They alow you to bleed the system w/out a helper. Just dont forget to keep that master cylinder filled..
Good luck.. Jim
Agree with the speedbleeders. you'll need 6 though since the rears calipers have 2 bleeders on each caliper. Autozone sells them in the HELP! section. Look for 1-man bleed screws. They're great and easy to use.
Good luck
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Old 11-01-07, 05:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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no need for the speed bleeders. I have used just about all the procedures to bleed them and the motive bleeder is the best $60 you can spend.
Go to NAPA and get the metric brake line conversion that fit the M/C remove the M/c and bench bleed it with those lines returning to the M/C chambers. Install the M/c when done and use the Motive.
Check the rotor runout as well and be sure it's under .005, better yet under .003"
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Old 11-01-07, 05:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Gary,
What do you mean when you say 'metric brake line conversion'? Is that what I ask for and what do I get? Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
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Old 11-01-07, 06:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Gary,
What do you mean when you say 'metric brake line conversion'? Is that what I ask for and what do I get? Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
Here's the bench-bleed setup. The kit (in the "Help" section) has assorted sizes of plastic fittings for the outlet ports, the two hoses, and a retainer to hold them in position while you pump the rear piston to get the air out of the bore.



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Old 11-01-07, 09:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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John. I've always wondered what are those 2 fittings are for right above the red plugs. I've got them on both the 67 and 68.
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Old 11-02-07, 10:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jims427400 View Post
John. I've always wondered what are those 2 fittings are for right above the red plugs. I've got them on both the 67 and 68.
I think those allow you to bleed the MC as well, probably when it is installed
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Old 11-02-07, 10:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Alan 71 View Post
Gary,
What do you mean when you say 'metric brake line conversion'? Is that what I ask for and what do I get? Thanks!
Regards,
Alan
Alan,
Like John shows. Only I use steel lines I made up. The tapped holes in the M/C off my72 and 75 were metric. So I got the metric brake lines with the flared end and nut. Cut them and bent them up to the chambers. That way they are a tight fit. The ones John has I have as well. They were NPT threads and leaked when I went to use them. I don't know if they make them in the metric thread required but the ones I have sure didn't work.

Here are the ones I made up

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Old 11-02-07, 03:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks John and GTR1999. Explanations AND pictures, is this a great country or what?
Regards,
Alan
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Old 11-04-07, 07:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jims427400 View Post
John. I've always wondered what are those 2 fittings are for right above the red plugs. I've got them on both the 67 and 68.
They're useless, which is why they were deleted in later years.
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Old 04-16-08, 09:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Is right rear the passenger side? My manual has something different than what everyone else is saying...
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