New Crate Engine first startup

earlz_81 · 10-25-07, 10:31 AM

Alright I've got a question about the break in procedure. I had a GM mechanic install a crate 350/290 hp. I went by to pick up some parts and he started it up for me. I asked him about the "cam break in" procedure of running it around 2500 RPMs for 25-30 minutes. He said you don't need to do that with a new engine and that the goodwrench engines are OK. So I left and 20 minutes later I called him back and said every article I read said to do the 2500 for 30 minutes, he said no problem. So if the car has been run twice for a minute or two each time, is too late for the break in to do what it is supposed to? How would I know if it is too late. Am I worried for nothing?

minifridge1138 · 10-25-07, 11:46 AM

I've always heard that new engines should be broken in. Even new cars from the dealer recommend keeping the speed under 55 mph for the first few hundred miles to break in.

Will it damage anything? I have no idea. I read that the point of breaking in an engine is to let the rings, seals, etc got hot, then cool down, then get hot again. Basically to let everything settle.

Good luck. At least GM crate motors come with a warranty.

Bill75 · 10-25-07, 12:43 PM

GM Crate engines don't require the 2500 rpm 20 min break in procedure only IF they have roller tappets. I have a ZZ4 which I did not break in that way.

Also do a search for "seating rings". After you have it running you should do some full throttle acceleration runs down the road in low gear and let off the throttle allowing the engine to coast.

Bill

JohnZ · 10-25-07, 01:49 PM

The GM crate engines come with detailed startup instructions - the ones with roller lifters don't require a cam break-in, and the ones with flat-tappet cams do. If all else fails, read the instructions.

Altered · 10-25-07, 02:31 PM

Quote:

During the design phase, every GM performance engine must pass rigorous dynamometer testing. During these tests, each engine design is run at maximum torque and horse power RPM for up to 50 consecutive hours. The results of these dyno tests can be found in the GM PP catalog for each engine. Once an engine design has passed all of our testing, the design can be put into production. All GM performance crate engines are shipped with all new, never run, parts and are not individually dyno tested.

Source: http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Parts/faq.jsp#faq5
see FAQ #5

Your engine has camshaft part#3896962 which is a Hydraulic flat tappet cam. Any flat faced lifter establishes a wear pattern almost immediately with the cam lobe it is riding on. This is why it is crucial to follow a cam break in procedure such as the one I have listed listed below.

Do Not Idle the engine as soon as the engine starts, raise the rpm to 2,000 rpm. You should also constantly vary the RPM between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM for the first 20 minutes. This is the only way to insure proper lubrication during this critical period since the camshaft to lifter contact area relies almost exclusively on oil splash from the crank and connecting rods. Make sure that you run the engine for a full 20 minutes using this procedure. Next drain and replace the engine oil and filter with new, fresh oil and a new filter. It will seem like forever, but it is one of the most important steps to insure long, dependable performance.

May I ask what GM dealer/service department this was?

Bill75 · 10-25-07, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Altered

Source: http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Parts/faq.jsp#faq5
see FAQ #5

Your engine has camshaft part#3896962 which is a Hydraulic flat tappet cam. Any flat faced lifter establishes a wear pattern almost immediately with the cam lobe it is riding on. This is why it is crucial to follow a cam break in procedure such as the one I have listed listed below.

Do Not Idle the engine as soon as the engine starts, raise the rpm to 2,000 rpm. You should also constantly vary the RPM between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM for the first 20 minutes. This is the only way to insure proper lubrication during this critical period since the camshaft to lifter contact area relies almost exclusively on oil splash from the crank and connecting rods. Make sure that you run the engine for a full 20 minutes using this procedure. Next drain and replace the engine oil and filter with new, fresh oil and a new filter. It will seem like forever, but it is one of the most important steps to insure long, dependable performance.

May I ask what GM dealer/service department this was?

Here's the link to the startup procedure as Altered has described that is for your engine:
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...=Custom&ID=636

DarkShark · 10-25-07, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earlz_81

...I asked him about the "cam break in" procedure of running it around 2500 RPMs for 25-30 minutes. He said you don't need to do that with a new engine and that the goodwrench engines are OK. So I left and 20 minutes later I called him back and said every article I read said to do the 2500 for 30 minutes, he said no problem...

Sounds like he wants to keep you as a customer...

earlz_81 · 10-25-07, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkShark

Sounds like he wants to keep you as a customer...

I hear where you're coming from cause I always assume someone is trying to get over on me, but that isn't the case here. He's a solid guy. He's also doing it at a fraction of the price. Said he's done many of the goodwrench engine swaps, and if anything is wrong with it, he'll do the work for free.

Altered · 10-26-07, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earlz_81

I hear where you're coming from cause I always assume someone is trying to get over on me, but that isn't the case here. He's a solid guy. He's also doing it at a fraction of the price. Said he's done many of the goodwrench engine swaps, and if anything is wrong with it, he'll do the work for free.

I wasn't trying to imply he was intentionally trying to get over on you.

He may actually may believe he is correct. GM didnt waste their time or $ printing this out and preaching it for yrs if it wasnt necessary. Not to mention the rest of the automotive world. I would make sure he gave me some sort of a written statement dated and signed that he would do the repairs for free. I have seen it happen on more than one occasion when things go bad the "solid" guy isn't so solid anymore. It may be way down the road when all heck starts showing up and that will require a entire engine teardown all new bearings cam lifters possibly rings honing etc etc. (lots a time and cash) all because there wasnt 20 to 30 minutes of running a engine???

Makes no since to me why anyone would risk the damage over the correct method.