Jacking my C4

Red Rocket · 10-24-07, 08:52 PM

I recently purchased a 96 LT4. I have found that it needs new shocks and brake pads all the way around. I've read the shop manual and the job looks pretty easy. I've done this work on my other cars for years. What I would like advice on is how to properly jack the car up. I have two hydralic floor jacks, the kind with the small steel wheels. I'm unsure of where to place the jacks so I don't cause any damage. I'd like to raise the front first, do the work there then drop it and do the rear. I'm thinking about placing the jack under the lower control arm at the front, directly under where the transverse leaf spring passes, very close to the tire. As for the rear I'm not sure where to place the jack. Any advise on the front and back would be appreciated.

I'll be using Bilstien shocks and ceramic brake pads, probably "Ceramicool" please send long any comments or concerns about these products.
Thanks

Red Rocket · 10-24-07, 08:55 PM

help

Ripp 76 · 10-24-07, 09:17 PM

For the rear I would take a look at this jack adapter. This comes from the Corvette GadgetMan.

The Corvette Gadgetman

I'll let someone else answer for the front.

toms94 · 10-24-07, 11:13 PM

I just put them in the factory recommended locations and jack it up. I have considered the Corvette Gadgetmans' product. If you can get your jack in there, the front cross member is also a good location for the front (it's pretty low though and not much room to get the jack handle moving up and down).

Hrtbeat1 · 10-25-07, 07:46 AM

I agree with Tom. Depending on what work I'm doing, determines on how I jack mine. If I just want the front up I use the cross member, the back I use the "pumpkin" of the differential, If Im lifting the whole car I use the factory jacking points and insert jack stands once I get it high enough. To lift the whole car even higher I'll go to the other side and jack at the factory locations, raise this side a bit higher, insert the jack stands, then go back to the other side.

One advantage is the jack I use ... its one of those low profile racing type floor jacks.

Oh be careful in the placement of the pad of your jack, the front section of the floorboard is fiberglass and will NOT support the vehicle during jacking. I've seen many Vettes with cracks in the floorboards from improper jack placement. Be sure to place the pad on the Pinch Rail of the frame. Same goes for jackstands, be sure they are resting on the frame rail.

Rabbit · 10-25-07, 09:17 AM

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/jackupzr1.htm

Boeingdriver · 10-25-07, 03:24 PM

I don't jack my '96 any other way than from a center point, front or rear. I've heard two scare stories of cracked windshields from jacking on the fwd. side lifting points. There's a reason that the manual says to open the doors when jacking this car.

The center crossmember is 4.25" high at stock height. If your jack will go this low, use a thin block of wood and raise the front this way. I have to roll onto 2x12 ramps to get my floor jack under the front. This has the advantage of unloading the front suspension for better greasing, more room, etc.

In the rear, I use the same jacking adapter as shown in the earlier photo. This is from a fellow in Canada....his name is Corvette Gadget Man. This adapter works great and just picks the entire rear of the car up no problem. I paid $45 for the adapter.

Hrtbeat1 is absolutely right too. Be very careful about jacking in the front if you're not on the crossmember. There's a story here on the forum somewhere about a dealer who pushed the passenger side floorboard almost to the dash with improper jacking. This is one of the first things I look for when checking out a used Corvette.

Hrtbeat1 · 10-25-07, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boeingdriver

There's a reason that the manual says to open the doors when jacking this car.

yea forgot about that part

As far as the 2X12 ramps we had to do that at the mechanic I took the '90 to when I was checking it out. The lift wouldn't fit underneath to raise it up, had to drive up on 4 of them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boeingdriver

This is one of the first things I look for when checking out a used Corvette.

Always!

Ugolino · 10-26-07, 01:35 AM

You can safely use the factory jacking points, clearly marked on the frame rails, to jack the car. I have had 4 c4s and have used the jacking points for years and years WITHOUT opening the hood, doors, etc. It won't crack the windshield, it won't distort the body panels or ruin the frame.

Just jack up the car using the factory jacking points, and put jackstands on the areas where the frame bends inwards. You can do one side at a time, the car is designed for this. As for jacking through the floorboards, you would have to be a complete idiot to place the head of the jack anywhere other than the frame rail. The rail is right there, big as life.

If I had a dime for every time I read that old myth about opening the doors and/or hood to jack up a corvette, I'd have a lot of dimes.

jrzvette · 10-26-07, 03:19 PM

Right here:

http://www.c4guru.com/articles/TowingJacking.pdf

Red Rocket · 11-08-07, 04:40 PM

[quote=Ugolino;854207]You can safely use the factory jacking points, clearly marked on the frame rails, to jack the car. I have had 4 c4s and have used the jacking points for years and years WITHOUT opening the hood, doors, etc. It won't crack the windshield, it won't distort the body panels or ruin the frame.

Just jack up the car using the factory jacking points, and put jackstands on the areas where the frame bends inwards. You can do one side at a time, the car is designed for this. As for jacking through the floorboards, you would have to be a complete idiot to place the head of the jack anywhere other than the frame rail. The rail is right there, big as life.

If I had a dime for every time I read that old myth about opening the doors and/or hood to jack up a corvette, I'd have a lot of dimes.

[/quote

I finished my brake and shock replacement on the weekend with no trouble at all. Man its satisfying to do it yourself. My biggest fear was jacking the car up. I had heard the stories of cracked windshields and popped roof panels. So I used a combination of several pieces of advice I recieved here. Since I have 2 hydraulic floor jacks I decided to approch the car one side at a time. I placed the jacks under the factory jacking points using hockey pucks between the jack and the under side of the car. The pucks provided a larger contact surface than the top of my jack thereby spreading out the load. Also since pucks are made of a hard rubber compound they left no marks on the underside of the car. With this placement of the jacks its possible to raise them both at the same time, which all but eliminates any frame twisting. I even opend and closed doors and the rear glass while the car was up with no problems, although I realize that was tempting fate. Thanks for the help.

redvett · 11-08-07, 05:58 PM

Actually opening the doors and windows reduces the integerity of the vehicle. Having spent a considerable time at the BG plant no car has ever had a door or window when lifted. I have and currently owned several C4 Vetts and i use two floor jacks and raise either both front & rear or either side on my 94 ZR-1. Never ever a problem

nickyg · 11-09-07, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redvett

Actually opening the doors and windows reduces the integerity of the vehicle. Having spent a considerable time at the BG plant no car has ever had a door or window when lifted. I have and currently owned several C4 Vetts and i use two floor jacks and raise either both front & rear or either side on my 94 ZR-1. Never ever a problem

Ditto: I also went to Dick's sporting Goods and bought a couple of hockey pucks that I use on the jack pad. Have used them ever since through many oil changes, brake jobs, exhaust work and anything else I need to do under the car.