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Go Back   Corvette Action Center > 1984 - 1996 Corvettes > C4 General Discussion


C4 General Discussion For general topics of discussion related to the 1984 - 1996 Corvette.

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Old 10-24-07, 02:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default WHAT TO AVOID - mid to late 80s

Buddy of mine is shopping hot n heavy for his first Vette.
He keeps sending me these 84-89 models that tend to have a few things replaced/rebuilt but still need some TLC.
Typically have 120k miles and are in the price range of 4-8k.

What does he need to avoid?
What options should be look for or shy away from?

Thanks
Rain
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2000 Corvette Coupe---Black on Black---6 speed
19/20 HRE 547, RK Sport Hood, Vararam, PIAA Headlights, C6/Z06 shifter, Borla Exhaust, Rocker Rails, Frame Savers, Flush Tail Lights, Both Tops, Lowered,

1996 Corvette Coupe---Bright Aqua Metallic---Automatic
17/18 Chrome "wagon wheels", TB Bypass, Both Tops
63,000 miles
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Old 10-24-07, 06:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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bump
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Endorsing Artist with CA Guitars -



2000 Corvette Coupe---Black on Black---6 speed
19/20 HRE 547, RK Sport Hood, Vararam, PIAA Headlights, C6/Z06 shifter, Borla Exhaust, Rocker Rails, Frame Savers, Flush Tail Lights, Both Tops, Lowered,

1996 Corvette Coupe---Bright Aqua Metallic---Automatic
17/18 Chrome "wagon wheels", TB Bypass, Both Tops
63,000 miles
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Old 10-24-07, 06:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default WHAT TO AVOID...

...mid to late 80's!


L8TR - D
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Old 10-24-07, 06:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks D -
Just braggin about you on another site......
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Endorsing Artist with CA Guitars -



2000 Corvette Coupe---Black on Black---6 speed
19/20 HRE 547, RK Sport Hood, Vararam, PIAA Headlights, C6/Z06 shifter, Borla Exhaust, Rocker Rails, Frame Savers, Flush Tail Lights, Both Tops, Lowered,

1996 Corvette Coupe---Bright Aqua Metallic---Automatic
17/18 Chrome "wagon wheels", TB Bypass, Both Tops
63,000 miles
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Old 10-24-07, 06:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rain View Post
Thanks D -
Just braggin about you on another site......
Sure - I bet you were!
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Old 10-24-07, 06:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well, I am not a C4 expert, but I will share what I have heard (feel free to correct me if anything is wrong or mis-information).

The 84 Corvette with the Crossfire carb is a great engine, if ran all the time. If it sits for too long I hear it can become problematic. So for me that really hurts my thoughts of ever purchasing an 84 or an 82.

The only other problem with these particular Corvette's that I know about in this price range is that a lot of them have been "Bubbafied" meaning that someone has done something crazy to make something else work in a strange way. Anything from re-wiring the fans to run at certain times to cutting holes in the floorboards in order for them to drain when it rains or if the heater core breaks.

Biggest thing you can do for your friend is to encourage him to take his time. There are lots of late 80's Corvettes out there. They are a great bang for the buck, but take time to look over the Corvette completely. At these prices people are not afraid to drive them in the snow and the salt can eat away at the frame.

Either way, help your friend also to enjoy the hunt for his first Corvette and teach him to wave.

~Just realized I am no longer a "Supporting Member". Time to go fix that.

Last edited by Ripp 76; 10-24-07 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 10-24-07, 07:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The wife and I own 2 89s with 6 speeds and I would buy another if I had the money and had the room in my garage
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Old 10-24-07, 07:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I sold my '88 coupe in June. My new DD is an '02 vert. I drove the '88 for 4 years. It had 167K on it when I sold it. It still ran great and was driven from Arkansas to Illinois with the buyer.

The L98 was pretty bullet proof. If I were in the market for a C4 I'd want to make sure that it had the extra fan in front of the radiator. Take it for a ride at highway speeds and then into the city with A/C on and let it idle and see how the temp holds up.

Check the weather stripping. If it needs to be replaced the OEM kit is about $700 if you do the work. Check the A/C and see if the R34 conversion has been done.

C4s are great vettes.
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Old 10-24-07, 08:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Bubbafied is right -
The ones he has sent have all been rebuilt by the owners, interiors ripped thru, etc.

Model he has his eye on now has had a 7000r transmission put in it - 1988 model I believe.
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Endorsing Artist with CA Guitars -



2000 Corvette Coupe---Black on Black---6 speed
19/20 HRE 547, RK Sport Hood, Vararam, PIAA Headlights, C6/Z06 shifter, Borla Exhaust, Rocker Rails, Frame Savers, Flush Tail Lights, Both Tops, Lowered,

1996 Corvette Coupe---Bright Aqua Metallic---Automatic
17/18 Chrome "wagon wheels", TB Bypass, Both Tops
63,000 miles
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Old 10-24-07, 09:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rain View Post
Bubbafied is right -
The ones he has sent have all been rebuilt by the owners, interiors ripped thru, etc.
I have a 94LT1 6sp Cp with 60,000 miles, It's not Bubbafide though!!

It has the Certified Official

"Junked Seal of Approval"!!

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Old 10-24-07, 09:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I know - the Junk Vettes are always premium vehicles..
Alas, joe only has five grand to spend on his first Vette
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Endorsing Artist with CA Guitars -



2000 Corvette Coupe---Black on Black---6 speed
19/20 HRE 547, RK Sport Hood, Vararam, PIAA Headlights, C6/Z06 shifter, Borla Exhaust, Rocker Rails, Frame Savers, Flush Tail Lights, Both Tops, Lowered,

1996 Corvette Coupe---Bright Aqua Metallic---Automatic
17/18 Chrome "wagon wheels", TB Bypass, Both Tops
63,000 miles
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Old 10-25-07, 12:25 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Get an 89 with 6 speed, or if auto get a late 86 -89 they have aluminium heads they don't leak as bad. The 85 has a better exhaust than later models only one catalytic converter. The early TPI units are MAF(mass air flow) you get more HP out of the MAF setup than the speed density setup.

If you leave it stock get an 89 with 6 speed.

If you mod it get an 85, you get MAF, less restrictive exhaust, they are cheaper, and NO ABS, ABS is nothing but trouble and stock GM ZR1 rims fit the 84-87 and they sit lower, better handling, and I have one, great car. I paid $4300. auto 88,000 miles.

The best handling vette is the 84, hardest suspension, but lacks the HP to project you out of the corner and down the straight.

These are just my opinions, some people like ABS.

In 88 GM changed the wheel offset and the ZR1 rims stick out, not cool for your paint.
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Old 10-25-07, 12:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Need a small box of clues........

I bought an 84 Vette and got robbed however it's worthy of keeping (I Think) To start out the oil pressure always seemed real high. Looking around on several post I'm guessing this might be some what normal. Before I bought it it had a leak so I had the compression checked before I offered to pay half for repairs. Compression was said to be fine and the Pan gasket/seal was replaced. I received a call from the mechanic, he was asking how much oil she took and the ownwers son said about 9 or 10. ??? The rear seal ended up giving out later on after a few runs down the race strip (1/8 mile). Does anybody believe this thing takes that much oil? I know if you put 4-5 quarts in there's still no reading on the dipstick. There's been some modifications done on this car and I'm not certain if they would warrant the use of so much oil. The car's got a 6 speed tranny 5 + Reverse (I hardly think this would have anything to do with the oil (I are Builder) not mechanic. The oil pan looks to me like it's stock (How can I tell? How long is the dipstick supposed to be? My guess is that the car was getting too much oil because everyone was assuming the car had a larger pan or sump to help accomodate so much oil. The cars been sitting for over a year and now the stick shift will not go into any of the gears. Got any suggestions as to what it might be??? OK Maybe I need a Big Box of Clues!!! Can you help????

Thanx,
CraigarT in MissaDamnSippi
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Old 10-25-07, 02:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I have an 89. It is a great car. BUT, even though I bought it with only 74, 000 miles on it, I have still had to do some work on it. headlight bushings, water pump, alternator, inner door window seals, troubleshooting turn signal and running lights, replacing emblems, tune up parts, fluid changes and the recent injector failure issue. ( see my thread, hard start/no start troubleshooting log.). The point is, these cars are almost twenty years old and stuff is going to go wrong with them. It is going to take money to pay mechanics or some of your own time to keep them roadworthy.The cool thing is, it really isn't that complicated or exotic and if you shop wisely ( internet ) parts aren't that expensive. C4s are huge bang for the buck but don't expect a trouble free car for what he has to spend. There are lots of them out there so I agree with the above given advise, take your time and find the best one you can afford.
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Old 10-25-07, 04:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Watch out for the dash displays. Particularly on the earlier ones.
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