Trailing Arm Rebuild - Spindle seems very tight

timme69680 · 09-17-07, 03:18 PM

I am in the middle of my frame off on my 74', the first thing I am working on is the rear trailing arms. I had to replace the spindles (screwed them up pulling the old ones), BOTH spindle holders had chips right by the seals so those too, basically everything except the trailing arm and caliper holders are new.

I purchased the spindle setup tool and installation tool. I must have tried every single shim on each trailing arm assembly (dry of course). One of the spindles the setup was very tight, the other slightly looser (bigger spacer). Dry they setup and measured in spec. However, once I used the installation tool and installed them (packed with grease and followed the instructions to the T). I can barely turn the spindle, I mean barely. I only torqued to 100 lbs, not the 120 lbs the factory manual says.

Is this correct? It does not seem right to me, I am afraid it might burn up the bearings (could be a year before I get the chance but that is no reason to skip on it being correct).

Vettehead Mikey · 09-17-07, 07:44 PM

If they were set up with the correct .001" to .008" end play, they should NOT be that tight once the grease and seals are also in place. Better investigate to find out what's up.

JohnZ · 09-18-07, 01:51 PM

Did you check the end play after you assembled them? The factory spec is .001"-.008", but that's an excessive range; better to set them up at .001"-.002". If you don't have any end play after assembling them, you need to go back inside again. Photo below shows checking with the setup tool in place - should check exactly the same after greasing the bearings and installing the spindle if the setup was done correctly.

bmotojoe · 09-18-07, 04:17 PM

Did you parallel grind each spacer before doing any shim work? The ones I have checked were out from the factory from .003 to .005. This can have an effect on the endplay with the final press on the install. If you did not parallel grind the spacer I will guaranty it will not be rotated in the same place as it was when it was in the setup tool.
Starting with the thickest shim each shim should be parallel ground to make sure they are true to start with.
I don’t think you will find that magic shim in the pack that will have the results you need. You will most likely have to parallel grind a shim to the correct thickness to obtain the correct endplay.
When packing the inner housing with grease you should leave some room for expansion.
Now is also a good time to drill and tap to 3/8x24 the spindle holes where the rivets were. Counter sink the rotor to except flat head bolts. This will be useful when it comes time to shim your rotor for run out. Remember each time you pull a wheel off and the rotor is not secured to the spindle rotor run out can change. It’s a little more work but it will payoff in the long run.
Brian

timme69680 · 09-18-07, 05:28 PM

All very good questions, so I don't really have a good way to check the end play. I am going to try and find a tool today that can help me out. Basically what I did was used a drafting ruler that had measurements to the .000 and checked it with the bearing setup dry. They were pretty darn close to .005 so I thought I would be in good shape.

However, once I pressed in the spindle (using the installation tool), I have 0 end play. I know for a fact that I installed everything correctly, I re-did one side lastnight, still the same result. Here are what I think the problems could be:

1. Too small of a shim, maybe I am not measuring the end play correctly.
2. Perhaps I have not pressed the spindle all the way in with the installation tool. I have not truely gotten the tool to bottom out! I stop a little short as I am not completly certain on how far the spindle should sit on the seal.
3. I am torging the spindle nut too tight? If the spindle is pressed in why would this matter?

Any ideas? What is the name of the tool that checks the run out?

bmotojoe · 09-18-07, 06:23 PM

The dial indicator shown in the photo above is attached to an adjustable arm with a magnetic base. The magnetic base should be attached to the trailing arm; I set mine up on the back end of the trailing arm on the top side where the spring bolt goes through.
Unless you’re fortunate enough to have access to a complete machine shop I would farm it out. You already have the setup tool and new bearings, seals, shims personally I would take the trailing arms to a machine shop tell them you want a minimum of .0050 with a maximum of .002 endplay and let them grind and fit the shims. You want this to be right when you go for your first ride. By the time you purchase a decent quality dial indicator arm and base half of the labor charges will be absorbed by new tool purchase.
If you decide to farm it out, have them show you the results with the dial indicator attached to the trailing arm before you leave there building.
Brian

JohnZ · 09-19-07, 03:04 PM

GM only serviced five different shim thicknesses, which isn't adequate to set end play to .001"-.002" considering the possible variations in the components. Werner Meier's Master Works shop has their own made (parallel ground) at a local machine shop in many different thicknesses, to accommodate a wide range of variation and still hit the .001"-.002" end play target.

Curtis · 09-22-07, 06:41 PM

I have some of the shims for sale if you want them... make me an offer. did mine several thousand miles ago and have a lot of extras..New 63-82 rear spindle parts

TWINRAY · 10-03-07, 11:58 AM

I'm going a bit off topic here but I'd recommend that when the spindles are out that you (unless yours is in REAL good shape) to replace the emer brakes shoes and hardware with the Stainless Steel parts from SSBC. Do it now while you can get to everything.

longhorn294 · 11-16-07, 11:53 AM

I took the easy way out and ordered a pair of rebuilt t-arms from Van Steel. New spindles, rotors, bearings and ss emergency brakes, all set up to specs. $389 ea. exchange. Just bolt on!

fine69 · 11-16-07, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by longhorn294

I took the easy way out and ordered a pair of rebuilt t-arms from Van Steel. New spindles, rotors, bearings and ss emergency brakes, all set up to specs. $389 ea. exchange. Just bolt on!

That's what I'd do!

big2bird · 11-17-07, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timme69680

All very good questions, so I don't really have a good way to check the end play. I am going to try and find a tool today that can help me out. Basically what I did was used a drafting ruler that had measurements to the .000 and checked it with the bearing setup dry. They were pretty darn close to .005 so I thought I would be in good shape.

However, once I pressed in the spindle (using the installation tool), I have 0 end play. I know for a fact that I installed everything correctly, I re-did one side lastnight, still the same result. Here are what I think the problems could be:

1. Too small of a shim, maybe I am not measuring the end play correctly.
2. Perhaps I have not pressed the spindle all the way in with the installation tool. I have not truely gotten the tool to bottom out! I stop a little short as I am not completly certain on how far the spindle should sit on the seal.
3. I am torging the spindle nut too tight? If the spindle is pressed in why would this matter?

Any ideas? What is the name of the tool that checks the run out?

If you live close to Dallas, take them to TracDog. This is not a good first project without the correct equipment or experience.