Power Antenna Problems

cheftl13 · 06-24-07, 05:15 PM

I have blown 2 power antennas in 5 years on my car, Is this a common problem, or do you think I have a short some where. Both, were professionally installed. Im about to go standard on it. Especially at 200.00 a piece!

bill81vette · 06-24-07, 05:58 PM

when you say 'blown' what are you referring to????
for example......it stopped working,it burned itself up,????

cheftl13 · 06-24-07, 08:27 PM

They both burned themselves out. Going down, the motor would just run and run, the antenna wouldn't go down, then it would finally go down, but still not stop running, caused it to completely burn out the motor

bill81vette · 06-25-07, 05:16 AM

check out this thread.....Electric Antenna Question

82Redo · 06-26-07, 07:32 PM

Did you find out what the problem was? I just pulled in the garage and my antenna motor wouldn't stop either. I tried to put the radio back on, the antenna went up but the motor wouldn't stop, tried lowering, still wouldn't stop but the antenna is going up or down the way it should. I'm assuming the relay went out. I pulled the battery cable in an attempt to reset the relay's contacts, didn't work. I'm gonna see if it can be pulled out, apply 12v to it and check continuity. I'll bet it's shorted without the 12v though.

gmjunkie · 06-26-07, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheftl13

I have blown 2 power antennas in 5 years on my car, Is this a common problem, or do you think I have a short some where. Both, were professionally installed. Im about to go standard on it. Especially at 200.00 a piece!

You Gots Screwed!!!!!

If the motor runs, Put a new mast in it about $40. and a hr maybe 2 of your time!!!Depends if the cable is striped or broken!!I keep C4 and C5 masts in stock,but I can still get them for a C3!!

82Redo · 06-26-07, 11:10 PM

So, I get behind the seat and find what I think is the relay (a silver box, but it's hardwired to a circuit board?) and diconnect it from the harness. My problem is, the Chiltons manual doesn't cover it and the Shop Manual only troubleshoots the thing if it's NOT going up or down. Mine doesn't turn off. It also looks like the actual switches that shut off the antenna when it's raised/lowered is in the antenna itself. I kinda pieced this together from the Shop Manual. None of the shop manual wire colors match up with the wire colors that are going into the relay. I do know that when I disconnected the relay wiring assembly, the motor wouldn't run afterwards. Any testing suggestions shy of replacing the assembly or antenna? From what I'm seeing in the Shop Manual wiring diagrams, I'm thinking it's the antenna.......

George81 · 06-29-07, 10:23 AM

Agree with GMjunkie! Sounds like the mast is breaking! Had the same issue with my 81. Replaced the mast and works great! You can disconnect the power lead, it's behind the left rear speaker, this will stop the motor from running and burning up. When you disassemble you'll have to drill out the steel revits but again very simple. I used s/s revits when reassembling. Fords still use the Delphi/DELCO assembly, not original but much cheaper.

wishuwerehere82 · 06-29-07, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 82Redo

So, I get behind the seat and find what I think is the relay (a silver box, but it's hardwired to a circuit board?) and diconnect it from the harness. My problem is, the Chiltons manual doesn't cover it and the Shop Manual only troubleshoots the thing if it's NOT going up or down. Mine doesn't turn off. It also looks like the actual switches that shut off the antenna when it's raised/lowered is in the antenna itself. I kinda pieced this together from the Shop Manual. None of the shop manual wire colors match up with the wire colors that are going into the relay. I do know that when I disconnected the relay wiring assembly, the motor wouldn't run afterwards. Any testing suggestions shy of replacing the assembly or antenna? From what I'm seeing in the Shop Manual wiring diagrams, I'm thinking it's the antenna.......

Your cable is broken in the motor.
You can drill out the rivets on the motor case to get it open and check it out.
The cable is hollow with a steel wire going into the end about 3" to attach it to the drive mechanism. Mine was snapped off at the end of the wire inside the cable, so I took off the extra 3 " of cable and epoxied the wire back in. Yeah, it's shorter now, but it extends and retracts like it should. The limit switches are inside the housing , and once you get it apart you will see them. Use screws and nuts to put the case back together instead of rivets.