C1 - Electric Hood Opener photos and movie

[firstgear]

Got the electric hood opener mocked up today. I want to see what I needed to do for brackets and such. I figured I could get the holes where they needed to be and then I can have some "real" billet pieces made up and polished.
This is slick.....Dakota Digital 8" electric linear actuator. I have gotten rid of the normal male and female hood latches and will use the electric motor to raise, lower and hold the hold in place. I need to figure out some rubber cushions for the ends to press against, but I am thinking that I can get away with the normal hood seal at the end, at least that will be my first thought and try.
Here it is....







Video of the hood opening and closing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MTN82KqHRc

[JohnZ]

Have you thought about an accessible quick-release pin so you can open the hood when the battery is dead and you can't get to the battery? Or a secondary harness connection where you can put power on the opener from an external source if the battery dies?

[firstgear]

Originally Posted by JohnZ

Have you thought about an accessible quick-release pin so you can open the hood when the battery is dead and you can't get to the battery? Or a secondary harness connection where you can put power on the opener from an external source if the battery dies?

good points John, the battery is in the trunk, so that makes that easy. I am going to turn around the mount for the lower pivot and then drill a small hole through the lower inner fender that will enable me to access the small bolt via an allen wrench from outside the car. I can get a small plug for it to keep dirt and water out. The hole will not be able to be seen very easily from the inside since the lower pivot is up against the inner fender.

Good comments

[IH2LOSE]

Looks cool

is it adjustable for the amount of travel?

[firstgear]

Originally Posted by IH2LOSE

Looks cool

is it adjustable for the amount of travel?

yes, programmable. but I set it up to go full length travel from shut to open.

I haven't quit figured out the push button arrangement and used the bypass to get it to go full stroke open and full stroke close. Basically I mounted the base on the frame, then extended it full open and mounted the rod end clevis on the aluminum. I might shim it up a little so that when I put the rubber in, it can compress but not smash it to pieces.

Dakota Digital has a number of set ups that you can use. I wasn't sure if the single actuator would do the trick for me so I got a dual actuator controller (just a few bucks more), but that hood doesn't seem to bother the actuator at all. It has 100 pounds of force capability, but remember that the pivot point is close to the hinge area so it needs the extra capability.

I originally got a 10" stroke, but they didn't show dimensions to the end of the clevis and I just went by the stroke length and that was too long. Sent it back to Summit Racing and ordered the 8" direct from Dakota Digital since Summit didn't show an 8".

Works quite well, I need to figure out what rubber I will use at the end of the hood, perhaps the normal rubber will be enough, that piece that is at the end of the cowl. It only needs to be snugged up against and not buffeted by the wind, the actuator is stiff and will not give so I am not worried about it.

[Tom Bryant]

That's a cool setup Herb. With the mount so close to the hinge and only on one side do you think you will be able to get enough clamping force to keep the hood from bouncing? Also what keeps it from pulling down too far and removint the section of hood inner panel that the actuator is attached too?

[firstgear]

Originally Posted by Tom Bryant

That's a cool setup Herb. With the mount so close to the hinge and only on one side do you think you will be able to get enough clamping force to keep the hood from bouncing? Also what keeps it from pulling down too far and removint the section of hood inner panel that the actuator is attached too?

good questions tom.....

first the unit has an over current reversal for closing that is supposed to limit its ability to over force down.

second, the unit is set up with the limit of travel down by virtue of the design limit, in other words it can't go past its end of close, so shimming it will get it right where I want it.

To keep from buffeting which will surely happen at speed, I am putting some rubber (not sure what yet) along the edge of the hood to pull down against. That will keep it from chattering or buffeting.

But you are right, it needs to be set up just right or I will pull it right through the hood pieces . but then if that happens, Harry needed something to do next winter anyways......

[Viet Nam Vett]

Cool....!!