Too Cold

Space Cowboy · 03-14-07, 04:25 PM

Can an engine run too cold that it basically causes it to die while driving it?

This past weekend... I took my 68 w/427 out for a test drive after doing some work on it. The work did involve the dual-fan system. The water temp never got over 155 degrees according to the guage. After driving it a bit, it acting like it was missing heavily or like the engine was loading up. Then it finally died. After rolling to a stop, it started up right away. As soon as I got into 2nd or 3rd gear it did the same thing again, over and over. I limped all the way home like that. Luckily I was only about 6 miles away.

Another item of info... because of the cooling issues I was originally having, I removed the thermostat an left a constrictor in for reduce the water flow. If I put in a 180 degree thermostat, would this resolve this issue with the engine dying.

Thanks

JohnZ · 03-14-07, 04:39 PM

Nope, the engine temp wouldn't cause your problem - sounds more like a fuel supply problem (float setting, clogged fuel filter or tank sock, etc.). Put the 180* thermostat back in it.

Space Cowboy · 03-14-07, 07:10 PM

Well, I thought fuel blockage as well. but I just put on a new filter and I can see fuel flowing through to the carb.

The thermostat is already on order and going on this coming weekend. :-)

Red Dogs · 03-15-07, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Space Cowboy

Well, I thought fuel blockage as well. but I just put on a new filter and I can see fuel flowing through to the carb.

The thermostat is already on order and going on this coming weekend. :-)

Did you put the filter in backwards by any chance, some are directional, fuel flow goes with the arrow on the filter, just a thought, sounds like it may be running out of fuel and then getting enough to just barely get it going again

Wayne robson · 03-16-07, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Space Cowboy

Can an engine run too cold that it basically causes it to die while driving it?

This past weekend... I took my 68 w/427 out for a test drive after doing some work on it. The work did involve the dual-fan system. The water temp never got over 155 degrees according to the guage. After driving it a bit, it acting like it was missing heavily or like the engine was loading up. Then it finally died. After rolling to a stop, it started up right away. As soon as I got into 2nd or 3rd gear it did the same thing again, over and over. I limped all the way home like that. Luckily I was only about 6 miles away.

Another item of info... because of the cooling issues I was originally having, I removed the thermostat an left a constrictor in for reduce the water flow. If I put in a 180 degree thermostat, would this resolve this issue with the engine dying.

Thanks

hi there like others have said sounds like fuel supply, but you said you had done somework on your vette, did you go or touch your distributor,ill tell you why if you have not started your car for a while, bad points and condensor can give you the same result because you said as soon asyou went in to second or third gear thats when you would put your foot down, bad or corroded points especially if they have closed up will do the same thing when points corrode they get ridged and the gape instead of say 15 thou end up 10 thou, and never use vented points these are the type that have a small hole in the fixed side they are renowned for giving problems, just incase this helps regards wayne.

Space Cowboy · 03-16-07, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Dogs

Did you put the filter in backwards by any chance, some are directional, fuel flow goes with the arrow on the filter, just a thought, sounds like it may be running out of fuel and then getting enough to just barely get it going again

It's one of these inline filters that has the clear glass canister. The filter itself is about 1.5" x .5" diam. or so. I looked for a directional arrow on the filter but didn't see one. I thought about flipping it around when I get home this weekend just to see if that resolves the problem. However, I did see fuel bubbling around in the canister, so I assumed the carb was getting it.

Thanks

Space Cowboy · 03-16-07, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne robson

hi there like others have said sounds like fuel supply, but you said you had done somework on your vette, did you go or touch your distributor,ill tell you why if you have not started your car for a while, bad points and condensor can give you the same result because you said as soon asyou went in to second or third gear thats when you would put your foot down, bad or corroded points especially if they have closed up will do the same thing when points corrode they get ridged and the gape instead of say 15 thou end up 10 thou, and never use vented points these are the type that have a small hole in the fixed side they are renowned for giving problems, just incase this helps regards wayne.

I never touched the distributor, but I did replace plugs over the weekend because two of them were fouling out. There is also a possiblity that one of the plug boots isn't making proper contact. It hadn't been started in about 4-6 weeks, but I'll check the guts of the distributor to see if there is anything is corroded. I kinda doubt it though... its practically brand new. But one thing I've learned on this car... even if its new... it can fail!

Thanks for the tips

Space Cowboy · 03-19-07, 06:19 PM

Well, it looks like my fuel pump has either a pin hole or small crack in it. When the engine is turned off, The line between the pump and carb looses pressure, plus the fuel is draining from the inline filter canister.

What really ****es me about the issue is that Holley doesn't sell replacement parts for their mechanical pumps. I'm stuck with buying a brand freek'in new one. They claim its because the way the pump is made.

If this happens again, I guess I'll go with an electrical pump. At least that way, I can buy parts for repair.

JohnZ · 03-20-07, 09:10 PM

1. Throw the glass filter away - it's a fire waiting to happen; can't believe people actually buy those things. There's a reason the OEM fuel system is all metal on the pressure side of the pump.

2. The stock AC pump will work just fine - it supported the fuel requirements of the L-88 with no problem at all. Aftermarket pumps (mechanical or electric) will gain you ZERO performance.

Space Cowboy · 03-26-07, 03:38 PM

Well, I finally figured out what was wrong. Although my mech. fuel pump was shot... the real problem was that there was some blockage in the fuel lines leading into the carb. When I disconnected the lines from the carb and flipped it over, a bunch of granular crud came out. How it got past two filters is beyond me... but it didn't actually get into the carb thank goodness! The stone filters (or whatever they are called) were totally dark and not that coppery look they should be. I cleaned everything up and put two new stone filters in the carb. She's back! What a learning experience that was!

I also put in a new tank this weekend. I was really dreading it after seeing all the comments on how painful it is. I would gladly change out a tank than a fuel pump on a BB any day!!!

Space Cowboy · 03-26-07, 03:39 PM

BTW JohnZ... the glass filter is gone :-)